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Thread: Gotlieb Funland

  1. #141
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    a little off topic, but having done my time in electroplating, 13 years including apprenticeship, barrel and still line, it helps if you know a little about electroplating before getting any done.
    A while back I was given a pin and newly plated parts to fit on it.
    To cut the story short, I personally took the parts back, as they were unacceptable, and I asked that they be redone, pointing out the flaws, and no shit, the owner denied that any of the parts were plated by him or his staff. This is where knowing about plating proved a challenge. It was a verbal battle with the owner being intimidated by the fact that I was right and his plating results were not worthy of the money spent. He said he would have to ask his platers if they had seen the parts before.........they all got replated to the standard they should have been in the first place.
    See in most cases the plater isn't the person you speak to and he doesn't know which side/s of the item/s need polishing nor does he know what they are for. The polisher is the fella with the worst job, it's a dirty dangerous job including damaging to your health if sufficient exhaust fans are installed, if at all. When pitting is soooo bad on an item the original piece, if done properly, which means expense, would be stripped back and then polished. But by polished I mean it may have to be linished first to level out the damage. Remember being done by hand it takes a true craftsman to polish 'level'. Keeping the same pressure on the item against the wheel to ensure a flat finish. I can see how reading this I am going all over the place. Even for let's say the coin entry bracket to be plated nickel/chrome. When you use a machine to polish you will end up with 'drag' areas that the wheel catches thus ruining the original form straight away. This should be explained by an employee/owner, the risks involved. Your item/s may not come back as you expect. Take a coin chute, usually fine on the intside but rusty on the ourside.....but it has a spot welded bracket on each piece. All the baths the items go through take a little bit of each previous solution into the next bath, causing contamination. Like you will often see rust looking stains around the spot welded pieces. Rinsed correctly by properly maintained baths it can be avoided. But remembering the owner is earning his living here and time involved to plate such a small piece can't be passed onto the customer hence it's done quickly...but this has the negative effect of contaminating baths by not rinsing correctly in proper rinse baths. What's a 'proper' rinse bath? One that has sufficient water entering to dilute and ideally remove contaminants and is emptied with the walls of the tank being wiped down. There is all the water, solution costs, anodes that dissolve, costs of rectifiers, maintenance, wages, SE water checks on your drainage, solution checks by chemical supplier, chemicals, filters that need changing, motors/compressors for agitation of the cathode bar/air in solutions........etc. There's heaps involved cost wise.
    Receiving a nickel plated item with stains on it, not acceptable, you need to check each piece prior to leaving and it's your right to ask, "why is that stain there when it shouldn't be"?
    Pitting can be filled using electroplating, and I'm sure I've touched on this before. The item gets a longer than normal/if at all, period in an acid copper bath. It's like using a spray filler and sanding back.
    Also remembering the plater doesn't know the tolerances, if any, he can work to. The building up of copper is fine, but when you come to reassemble your pieces it's likely they won't fit and/or you will have to use force, which can be detrimental to the plating as it may force it off. Adherence is the key when plating to make sure each layer takes. Going in and out of the acid copper with polishing (adding silicones) in between is a challenge. The poor polisher, that job sucks.
    Anyway, I suggest labeling each piece pointing out which areas you want that certain finish on and keeping a log of all your parts, yes they can end up in the bottom of a bath.
    But by the time the item gets to the polisher the label won't be there as it's been in a solution to strip back to it's original metal. You can photocopy/scan your items showing the specific areas you want attention paid to. This way by the time the polisher gets the item he knows what areas to concentrate on.
    But wait, there's more.........

  2. #142
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rich View Post
    a little off topic, but having done my time in electroplating, 13 years including apprenticeship, barrel and still line, it helps if you know a little about electroplating before getting any done.
    A while back I was given a pin and newly plated parts to fit on it.
    To cut the story short, I personally took the parts back, as they were unacceptable, and I asked that they be redone, pointing out the flaws, and no shit, the owner denied that any of the parts were plated by him or his staff. This is where knowing about plating proved a challenge. It was a verbal battle with the owner being intimidated by the fact that I was right and his plating results were not worthy of the money spent. He said he would have to ask his platers if they had seen the parts before.........they all got replated to the standard they should have been in the first place.
    See in most cases the plater isn't the person you speak to and he doesn't know which side/s of the item/s need polishing nor does he know what they are for. The polisher is the fella with the worst job, it's a dirty dangerous job including damaging to your health if sufficient exhaust fans are installed, if at all. When pitting is soooo bad on an item the original piece, if done properly, which means expense, would be stripped back and then polished. But by polished I mean it may have to be linished first to level out the damage. Remember being done by hand it takes a true craftsman to polish 'level'. Keeping the same pressure on the item against the wheel to ensure a flat finish. I can see how reading this I am going all over the place. Even for let's say the coin entry bracket to be plated nickel/chrome. When you use a machine to polish you will end up with 'drag' areas that the wheel catches thus ruining the original form straight away. This should be explained by an employee/owner, the risks involved. Your item/s may not come back as you expect. Take a coin chute, usually fine on the intside but rusty on the ourside.....but it has a spot welded bracket on each piece. All the baths the items go through take a little bit of each previous solution into the next bath, causing contamination. Like you will often see rust looking stains around the spot welded pieces. Rinsed correctly by properly maintained baths it can be avoided. But remembering the owner is earning his living here and time involved to plate such a small piece can't be passed onto the customer hence it's done quickly...but this has the negative effect of contaminating baths by not rinsing correctly in proper rinse baths. What's a 'proper' rinse bath? One that has sufficient water entering to dilute and ideally remove contaminants and is emptied with the walls of the tank being wiped down. There is all the water, solution costs, anodes that dissolve, costs of rectifiers, maintenance, wages, SE water checks on your drainage, solution checks by chemical supplier, chemicals, filters that need changing, motors/compressors for agitation of the cathode bar/air in solutions........etc. There's heaps involved cost wise.
    Receiving a nickel plated item with stains on it, not acceptable, you need to check each piece prior to leaving and it's your right to ask, "why is that stain there when it shouldn't be"?
    Pitting can be filled using electroplating, and I'm sure I've touched on this before. The item gets a longer than normal/if at all, period in an acid copper bath. It's like using a spray filler and sanding back.
    Also remembering the plater doesn't know the tolerances, if any, he can work to. The building up of copper is fine, but when you come to reassemble your pieces it's likely they won't fit and/or you will have to use force, which can be detrimental to the plating as it may force it off. Adherence is the key when plating to make sure each layer takes. Going in and out of the acid copper with polishing (adding silicones) in between is a challenge. The poor polisher, that job sucks.
    Anyway, I suggest labeling each piece pointing out which areas you want that certain finish on and keeping a log of all your parts, yes they can end up in the bottom of a bath.
    But by the time the item gets to the polisher the label won't be there as it's been in a solution to strip back to it's original metal. You can photocopy/scan your items showing the specific areas you want attention paid to. This way by the time the polisher gets the item he knows what areas to concentrate on.
    But wait, there's more.........
    You definitely sound like you know what youíre talking about Rich.
    And as far as Dougís stupid comment about you went for the cheapest quote so why was I expecting a good job? Dah yes I do expect a good job when I take a job to a commercial work shop that is supposed to specialise in that type of service, if it was me running that company I would have been ashamed of the product and results that were shipped back to the customer, I think I could have achieved better results by using one of those kits you buy off eBay. But I donít hold it against Doug because he says a lot of stupid comments on the forum that I donít agree with.
    And and donít we all get quotes to get the job done for the cheapest price? But that doesnít mean the quality should be compromised.
    The parts that I had done for Covergirl were done by Master platers of Melbourne and they by far were the cheapest quote that I got back by a long way in fact one of the other places were more than double the price for the same job.
    But when I received the parts back they were very well packed and looking at the finished product you would have thought they were brand new, I really couldnít fault them at all.
    This mob did a job that was really quite amateurish and even stuffed up the easy bit that was the posting back to me, Iím actually lucky that I received all my parts back as like I said before, he picked the wrong bag and ripped the corner off so I had parts sticking out the postage bag with a few bits of clear tape stuck on the sides of the bag and the bare parts mind you and you and you want me to give them a good feed back no bloody way.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Putting out the feelers for my next early Gotlieb project

  3. #143
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    Finally have the playfield off the rotisserie and started fitting the top and bottom apron pieces everything has either been polished up re-nickeled and powder coated, I even went to the trouble as explained in an earlier post to reproduce the manafactures certificate with the games correct serial number just to give it that bit more of the original look.
    https://i.imgur.com/lS6yUTt.jpg
    https://i.imgur.com/WAHt08y.jpg
    Now the playfield back in place in the machine for the first time in over 12 months which is when I acquired the game in August last year, shooter lane guide indicator back in place and bottom apron back on.
    https://i.imgur.com/nE3DC3q.jpg
    https://i.imgur.com/GSm4dNx.jpg
    Now when I got the machine the on off switch was removed and the wires twisted together so the machine was permanently left on (must be an operators thing that they did in the day?)
    So I installed new switch so it can once again be isolated from underneath the front of the cabinet.
    And now letís power this thing up and yes we have some power but nothing to the playfield as yet as the 15amp slow blo fuse is blown and I donít have any ive got everything but them so thatís it for the time being until I get some.
    https://i.imgur.com/kKNn4C4.jpg
    https://i.imgur.com/IV04uAF.jpg


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    Putting out the feelers for my next early Gotlieb project

  4. #144
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    Looks great

    Sent from my AGM A8 using Tapatalk

  5. #145
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    Wow ... looking great . This game sure has been a labour of love and the results prove it

  6. #146
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    Looks nice well done


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  7. #147
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    Excellent job mate, well done. Looks amazing, so much better than the day you picked it out. What's your next project, or are you going to relax for a while?

  8. #148
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pinballer View Post
    Excellent job mate, well done. Looks amazing, so much better than the day you picked it out. What's your next project, or are you going to relax for a while?
    Definitely a lot different than the day it came home, when my missus saw it for the first time she told me I was crazy for buying it and that it looked like a piece of junk, but sheís not saying that now although I havenít told her exactly how much Iíve spent on it and that information she doesnít need to know lol.
    Still have a bit to do with this one to get it mechanically right but at least all the cosmetics are done, and as far as that next project goes Iím always on the lookout.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    Putting out the feelers for my next early Gotlieb project

  9. #149
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    Ok itís starting to come alive Iíve managed to get power to the playfield looks like there was a dodgy fuse clip.
    I think I have a lot of work yet to get this one to a playable condition but will nut it out one step at a time @kimbleseven Jesse I feel your pain lol EMís are bloody fantastic but they are also a bloody big headache
    https://i.imgur.com/xkXITPM.jpg
    https://i.imgur.com/YouuIEH.jpg
    https://i.imgur.com/hvRBybo.jpg


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    Putting out the feelers for my next early Gotlieb project

  10. #150
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    The best part Rob is its a single player which is definitely my preference with EM's due to better game play .. imagine if it was 5 years ago .. cost of parts + postage from USA was much cheaper.


    Sent from my SM-A520F using Aussie Arcade mobile app

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