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Twilight Zone Restoration


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This machines arrived in pretty crappy condition. Very dirty, cabinet extremely worn and needing a lot of repair.

 

Had not been played in almost 8 years, power cord had the test certificate still attached from last test. Had been pushed into the back corner of a shed and left exposed.

 

Unbelievably she started up, most solenoids appeared to fire under test, lights sort of worked, and as expected,clock was giving a broken error message.

 

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Playfield stripped and cleaned. Boxed up and sent to Tim at Hot Rodded Pins for another brilliant restore.

 

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Cabinet work started. Half of the base had popped and my what I could see, I expected the coin door timber to fall out once I removed the corner supports......Yep

 

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Surfaces repaired and prepped. Lots of glue, clamps and, a few brad nails to really stiffen her up.

 

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Solid as....Body filler, sand, body filler, sand, prime fill coat, sand

 

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Top coat applied, nice gloss finish straight from the gun.

 

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Three weeks to cure and dry before decals applied.

 

Power supplied cleaned and painted.

 

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All mechanism are completely stripped, cleaned, parts replaced as needed, new coil tubes and new coil wrappers printed.

 

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Decals applied, dry method, and pre cut before application. This saves on any paint chipping when trimming the decal edges. Cabinet fitted started

 

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- - - Updated - - -

 

Playfield back from Tim at HRP. Its beautiful as expected. Nice work mate!!

Polish and then straight into the fit out.

 

New side rails made. I used Tassie Oak, milled to size and used the old rails as templated to pre drill all my holes. Gloss black finish applied.

 

These wide body machines have so much going on!!!

 

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Slowly getting there...

 

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Power up, always a nervous time at that first flick of the switch....

 

For those eagle eyes, the white sheets on the inside of the cabinet. My own design cabinet protectors. 0.5mm thick white sheet from the local plastics shop _ Menzel Plastics for the locals. Cut into 2 large blades, I then tape them to the side rails and leave them there till testing is finished.

 

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Despite fitting a new clock opto led board, error persisted. After running the tests a number of times, found the hands where installed 180 deg out. Done. clock fixed and now worked correctly.

 

Waiting on the coin door to return from the powder coaters, new lock down from RTBB and glass.

 

Final completed pictures to come.

 

Sitting on the fence, but think I might try a Pinsound board.

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Hi Trent, looking great mate. A tech question, regarding the back of the headbox, what filler are you using to get the MDF super nice. based on this photo it looks like a couple of different types. Cheers

 

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Hi Trent, looking great mate. A tech question, regarding the back of the headbox, what filler are you using to get the MDF super nice. based on this photo it looks like a couple of different types. Cheers

 

Just Builder Bog from Bunnings. Picture that has the pink bucket with mechs, it’s just on the edge of the picture.

Tip from @Boots, thin the bog with metho, work it into a smooth paste then add the hardener. Goes on so much easier and fills small indents

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Just Builder Bog from Bunnings. Picture that has the pink bucket with mechs, it’s just on the edge of the picture.

Tip from @Boots, thin the bog with metho, work it into a smooth paste then add the hardener. Goes on so much easier and fills small indents

 

Sounds good, thanks for the tip. I've found the bog sands at a different rate to the MDF and doesn't always fill the low points so thinning it down like that sounds like a good solution. Cheers

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Geez mate you haven't mucked around getting this one done - looks fantastic. Congrats!! I'm looking forward to getting my playfield back from Tim, although I'll have to work on Shadow first for Pinfest when I getback from overseas.

 

Sent from my SM-G800Y using Tapatalk

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Pre cut decals before application mate? Interesting. I'd like to try this method as the chipping and damaging the paint and filled areas/bog always presents a problem when the blade gets run along the decal, especially if pressing too hard. Can you take a close up pic of the edge of the decals as I'm interested to see how much cab gap there is? 2mm, 3mm, etc?

 

The last cab decal I did was LW3. This turned out pretty good and generally happy with the job.

 

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But look at the decal gap on Stern's TWD:

 

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Hey Glenn,

Yes, pre cut, @Boots and I have now done 3 cabinets this way.

Suggested by @Bet7676 - thanks Grant

 

I hated trimming the edges with resulted chipping of the paint. Tried all types of blades, hard cut, soft cut , different angles , even different painting techniques. Chips 50% plus of the time.

 

This takes a little more set up, Mark out and pre-cut but the end results are fantastic.

 

Just took these pictures. Difficult to photo with the shine and black. However this did remind me, I haven’t finished off my decal edges using Posca black pen yet!!

 

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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  • 3 weeks later...

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