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Is this a dud tube?


THX11

Question

Based on my readings here http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=152601.0 and by chance pretty much the same test screen is this a dead gun?

 

I swapped the green and red wires on the rgb cable to get these two images.

 

29737784878_46dd51bc9b_b.jpg

 

41800245160_eef10b8ba4_b.jpg

 

I was pretty sure I saw some red flickering when moving the remote board, but cannot re-create this.

 

This is from a PC-arcadevga and jpac.

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It could very easily just be a chassis fault. Chassis faults are far more common than tube faults. While your red gun could be stuffed, it's just as likely to be chassis related, more likely in fact. Remove the chassis and post it to Jomac to get him to rebuild it. $95 is the usual cost + post each way. It will come back like a brand new chassis.
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It has been over once. Just trying to confirm if it was a tube fault...I realise this is the least likely thing.

 

I didn't want to waste my time, or his. But if we think it's still possible to be a chassis I'm happy to. I must admit the output of my two images just confused me haha

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The new one has some fandangled high res screen in it. So assuming they're not compatible.

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

There's a flash of a few very clear red lines scattered on the screen when I first turn on the pc. I'll give it one last look over and send to Perth.

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I would be checking that the Red is connected or confirmed working going into the chassis as the fault is following no red input.

 

 

Ignore what I said, misread your post and I'm not colour blind :)

Edited by Ryan555
Wrong information
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The neckboard should have three big transistors. If they're tab-type, with metal backs, short the back of each to chassis ground briefly with your meter. If the red transistor does not flood the image with red, check the voltages on the transistor pins. If there's voltage, swap for a known working transistor. If, after that, you get no red, the tube is dead. Unless the socket is faulty :D

 

EDIT: TBH, if you see a few clear red lines, you're better off tracing the red signal from where it enters the chassis. Could even be the tube socket.

Edited by buttersoft
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Thanks to everyone for the help. Chassis went to Jomac and returned. The no red fault was the same at his end and was repaired. Initially still had the same issue here when returned, but it just so happens I also have a shady connection from red at the jamma connector and jpac. All is well now. Don't mind the geometry, just a poor resolution choice at the time.

 

44186582412_485c339453_c.jpg

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