Coin Door Credits Not Registering - Bally Rolling Stones

Check and make sure no other coin switches are jammed on not just the one you are using to credit the machine and also check no of the micro switches, (coin switches), are broken and jammed on.

Listen or feel for a click from each switch when doing the testing.

Because everyone "thinks" they know how to put up credits using the coin switches is the reason this switches cause so much trouble.

Check and make sure no other coin switches are jammed on not just the one you are using to credit the machine and also check no of the micro switches, (coin switches), are broken and jammed on.

 

Listen or feel for a click from each switch when doing the testing.

 

Because everyone "thinks" they know how to put up credits using the coin switches is the reason this switches cause so much trouble.

Thanks for the response Steve. I will do my best to try and look into that the best way I can. I must admit, it makes quite a lot of sense as all 3 mechanisms are very tight and aren't too crash hot. I wouldn't be confident pulling everything out but this gives me a starting point. Much appreciate your advice, cheers.

Thanks for the response Steve. I will do my best to try and look into that the best way I can. I must admit, it makes quite a lot of sense as all 3 mechanisms are very tight and aren't too crash hot. I wouldn't be confident pulling everything out but this gives me a starting point. Much appreciate your advice, cheers.

A lot of machines around this vintage had the 2 coin mechs wired in parallel so the coin collector only needed to go to one meter reading to get the total coins instead of needing to add two figures together therefore if one switch is jammed on, neither switch will work.

You should be able to go to switch test pushing S33 on the mpu board or the test button on the inside of the front door 5 times and see if one of the coin switches is jammed on.

The switch numbers for Rolling Stones are

09- right coin switch

10- left coin switch

11- middle coin switch

If any of these numbers continue to flash up in switch test, you have that switch jammed on.

Hey Steve, thanks for going to so much trouble with your help, much appreciated.

The coin mechs wired parallel makes a lot of sense however when doing the diagnostic test no errors come up. This is very weird too as I have what appears to be a stuck contact on a target, however the switch isn't making contact but it scores continually (I have to actually hold it in for it to stop scoring?). I also don't see a test button anywhere in the headbox, sorry.

In fairness to your time I really should do a bit more of my own reading about coin door mechanisms as I have little or no knowledge of how they work. Maybe then I might have more of a chance.

Thanks for the great help and have a great Sundee arvo.

Check A4 (MPU) J3 edge connector, when fitted 3,2 or 1 coin mech switches all go to/through this edge connector, check header pins for dry solder joints on the rear of the MPU and look to see if the pins in edge connector are intact. They may look intact but can be broken and may work intermittently. You can push in the locking strip on the individual pins and remove the pin and retension it for ensured connection, remembering to pull out the locking tab before refitting the pin so as to lock it in place again, A4 J3, pins 9, 10 & 11 are for the coin micros.

Does your game start pushing the credit button?

You have lights behind the coin slots? Coin Lockout pulls in?

If you have a multimeter handy put the two probes onto each lug on the micro, meter set on continuity/buzz/sound, activate wire lever, closing the switch and listen for a sound. This can be tricky on your own unless you have alligator clips fitted to your meter leads. Once you know the state of your microswitches, if they work, then they go through the plug just inside the door to the left then up to the MPU A4, J3.

Your book keeping/test function switch is on the inside of the front door, small red button/switch on a bracket in the top middle, SW33 is on the MPU and resets readings to zero, a round narrow red push button.

Thanks for the ideas Rich and areas to look at. I'm just doing some further reading so I understand some of the parts, mechanisms and what they do. I have saved a few repair websites over the years so am looking at a coin mechanism tutorial by Steve Kulpa - looks good so going slowly through that. I will specifically spend some time looking at the instructions you mentioned.

Well sh*t, after your advice on the reset, I found the SW33 on the MPU and now after holding in it did indeed reset readings to zero. After doing that I can now advance credits via the wire assembly at the bottom of the coin mechanism (very gently I know). Coins still won't register but this is a massive step. I'll get there.

Great help and can't thank you enough, cheers.

P.s Sorry Steve as I know you gave me advice on the SW33 - my bad, but still learning - thanks mate.

Good on ya! Progress :023:

Each press of the test switch on the front door enters different book keeping functions.

First press tests all the lights, then displays, solenoids etc. as I guess you are learning from Steve's site.

Along with the 4 x 8 banks of dip switches on the MPU you can also change other settings.

Just so I understand @JoshZ .... your coin is going through the slot at the top, through the mech itself then? is it being returned to the refund/return hole in the front of the door or is it tripping the wire connected to the micro switch but this action isn't being recognised by the MPU?

Thanks Rich for the continued support and assistance.

I am aware of the test switch and have used it over the years to hopefully find some answers - I used to always get stuck switch errors but now receive none - which doesn't quite reflect game play. I also fiddled with the other settings in the early days but haven't touched for a long time - settings seem fine and probably just more a personal preference I guess.

In regards to the coin mech - I have 2 coin slots - 1 right and 1 left (the middle one has a mechanism behind but no coin slot). The right coin slot seems to go through the coin mechanism but just drops straight to the refund hole. The left one gets stuck and with a gentle shake comes loose to the refund hole. Perhaps the stuck mechanism is because of the Susan B Anthony coin that earlier Bally's accepted? The other one that drops through though, unsure? I can, as mentioned, gently pull down the wire mechanism on the bottom of the coin mechanism and that registers credits.

Thanks again for taking time out of your day to help out, much appreciated. Don't go to a lot of trouble though Rich as I am clearly aware that I need the machine looked at by someone with greater knowledge than me (and this might be not too far away) for this and a few other issues - just wanted to get a head start and learn as much as I can.

Cheers and stay cool, Bret

Ow so the switches are working now but the coin mechs aren't reliably excepting coins?

Push the coin reject button and watch from the back of the door the part of the coin mechs that open slightly.

Grab this part and open it as far as it can go and look inside the now exposed part for crap inside the mechs.

If you see nothing inside, (it should be pretty clean), It is possibly the coin lockout.

Put the machine into solenoid test and watch the numbers as each coil is fired one at a time.

Check to see if there is a noise from the front door at number 14....14 is the coin lockout.

This is the coin lockout.....

http://stevekulpa.net/pinball/coinmech0.jpg

If you had no noise at solenoid 14 try pushing in the plate exactly like this clown is doing in the picture and put a coin through now.

If the coin goes through and a credit is registered, you have found your problem.

Two ways to fix it......

Check the coil...it has the two wires attached to it again in the picture

OR

See the metal bent piece of metal between his finger and the spring.... See the pointy end closest to his finger?

Bend it in about 3mm so it holds the plate fully in all the time.

It won't effect the machine. All that coil does is allow the coin to reject if someone puts a coin in when the machine is turned off,

without it if someone is so stupid to put a coin in when the machine is turned off, they loose it.;)

Hey @JoshZ don't sell yourself short, ask heaps of questions and surely someone on here will have the answer, in the meantime you are learning new skills and saving some coin.

As mentioned the coin lock out coil is energised to allow the coin to go the path of the micro switch or when not energised the coin will go the path to the refund. The coin mech is easily removed, usually/should be held in by a movable locking tab/catch at the top that loops over a locating lug. The coin mech is then removed by pulling to the right then in an upwards direction. There should be 4 locating lugs to hold the coin mech in position. Then also the bracket that holds the coin mech is held in place with one screw, the screw that allows the locking catch to hold the coin mech in place. Remove the screw and you can see a black lug that is held in place in a slot. This is removed by pulling/pushing in an upward direction. You don't really need to remove the later bracket but with the coin mech removed you can clearly see a brass actuator fixed to the slide that is moved by the coin mech being energised which allows for the accepting or rejecting of the coin. The coin mech is held in place firmly and don't be scared apply some force to remove it, same for its holding bracket. The holding bracket needs be be sitting just right for correct flowing of the coin. This bracket needs to sit 90 degrees in reference to the rear of the door, it may just need a tweak.

Transistor Q19 on the solenoid driver board is for the coin lock out coil.

The coin chute may be out of alignment ever so slightly in relation to the top of the coin mech thus not allowing it to complete its roll downwards. A tweak/bend will fix this.

As I like my credits to be added by coin I have removed the spring on the coil, unsoldered one wire and put a piece of cardboard between the barb and the moving plate. This way the coil isn't constantly energised and can always be put back to original anytime.

Thanks again Rich and to Steve for all the very detailed explanations. You are very correct, I have asked many questions here on the forum and I never fail to receive some expert guidance and support. I sometimes feel quite useless that I can't give enough help back to others (on the technical side) ... maybe one day soon?

I'm away from the machine at the moment but when home I will break down all the advice and try small steps and see how I go. Even if I don't succeed I always learn something new about the machine and how it works which is a very good feeling.

Some of the steps mentioned are quite out of my skill zone but they are steps I will certainly read more about. I also was trying to nut out a few smaller issues to make it easier for someone to visit and take a look at some of the more complex matters.

Very best and thanks to all who offer their help - it is invaluable and priceless.

Cheers, bret

Dredging up an old thread.

I have a similar problem

I cannot add credits, stern Big Game. Mpu200

coin micro switches work in test.

game does not give credits for specials or popping it,

running out of credits, afraid to waste them.

thinking it maybe a possible coin lockout issue?

in the book keeping settings/audits, what do you have the 'maximum credits' setting set at?

also is it set to award a credit for 'special' or is it set to award extra ball, mystery score?

Be interesting to see how the dipswitches are set. I could just be one in the wrong position causing this but don't rule out a faulty dipswitch, they do fail open. Each dipswitch also has a diode across it as they do form part of the switch matrix and these diodes can fail as well although this will normally cause other problems in the matrix. Check for the stupidly obvious as well like all the coin door switches have been disabled and wired to a credit button elsewhere on the machine. (Remember, someone else managed to get credets on the machine somehow).

As for scores not awarding credits, check in the score replay levels and see these aren't all set to 000000. There should be 4 levels but you must use levels 1 to 4 in order. 1 being the lowest and then higher 2 then 3 higher again followed by 4. You can use less replay levels BUT they must be set lowest to highest starting at level 1.

There are 3 ways to select replays awarded......game, freeball and novelty....(points). You want yours set to replay and this is done by a combination of 3 dipswitch settings.

Might want to put the machine in switch test and check the coin switches but when checking, hold the switch tested down till the machine cycles through a test sequence. On Ballys the test is done when the display shows a number as the matrix is only pulsed for testing for about 1/2 a second, not continuously and the testing time corrosponds with a switch number showing up in the display. Each time a number or 00 shows in the matrix test is the time the test is being performed and this is most important to remember when testing. Easy way not to stuff up is hold down a tested switch for several seconds and the switch number should pulse up a couple of times till the switch is released. Make sure also no coin switches are jammed on.

If the coin switches are showing as working, put the machine in game mode and work the switch multiple times. Pretty sure Ballys/ Sterns can be set up to 15 coin pulses for a credit via the dipswitches.

thanks for the replies

I used to be able to add credits, i didn't really think i did anything to make it stop,

I did change some dip switches to try an max the credits out to 40, it look like the dip switch has been replaced at some time

award is set to credit

1st replay is 10,000

no coin switches are jammed on

this is my only Classic Stern, multimeter set to continuity the coin lock out coil beeps if both wires are touched, this is not the case on my Bally's,

Being a board OK'd by Ken I imagine all would be fine, but components can go at any time.

You can test each dip switch with your multi meter. Set on beep/continuity, put the probes across each side of the switch.

Personally I'd set them either all on or off and do again the opposite way to ensure the switches are okay.

If all good then put back to your desired settings.

Also if the micro switch wiring has been tampered with, coin chute 3 may well be coin chute 1 or 2, and vice versa and this will affect the dip switch settings.

Also if the micro switch wiring has been tampered with, coin chute 3 may well be coin chute 1 or 2, and vice versa and this will affect the dip switch settings.

Really good point Rich, I wouldn't have thought of that straight up. :cool:

 

Really good point Rich, I wouldn't have thought of that straight up. :cool:

Yes it is a good point. Most SS machines had either the 1st and 3rd coin switches wired together or the 1st and 2nd so the coin collector only needed to get the one coin reading, the 1st coin audit or were left seperate. 2nd coin switch wasn't wired in until the $1 US coin came out.

The second coin wires should be in the harness and seeing as these probably have never been used, maybe give them a go.

The coin lockout coil should always be powered unless the machine is at maximium credits the machine is set to take or the machine is switched off. Also, wires do break inside the insulation on the coin door harness. Better to go back to the harness plug near the tilt board and simulate a coin switch operation there.

apologies to @JoshZ for the hijack

@skids you can have the game operate still using a coin but disengage the coil from working if you feel the coin lockout is a problem.

I touched on this in post #11

You want to make the coil set up as if it was being powered on, this sliding the long plate that moves the brass wireforms that determine whether the coin gets rejected or goes over the microswitch lever.

To do this remove either wire to the coil. Tape, heatshrink or cut off the soldered tip of the wire (to insulate/isolate) and tuck it away.

I have used both a piece of an icypole stick or a piece of tubing to do this.

Essentially you want to make the coil mechanically appear/be activated/pulled in without power.

You can slide a piece of the right thickness tubing over the bent metal piece that the moving coil plate (that hence moves the longer plate) hits against

or

what I have found to be the right thickness, a piece of an icypole stick between the bent metal piece of the coil housing and the moving coil plate.

There would be other ways too, whatever works for you should you decide to go this way.

In essence what your doing is making out the coil is being energised without power.

If your finding with the coil plate flat against the coil and the coin still not going over the microswitch then the problem is the path the coin takes, and/or the wireform that prevents/allows the coin to pass is out of alignment

Thank you for your replies/help, but would you believe it

playing around with it I used up all the remaining credits.

when the credits run out, pushing the start button again, added 10 credits.

I used up all the credits again and then, another 10 came up.

did it one more time and 99 credits came up. I don’t know how?

But it will always have credits. Not sure if the 99 credits was supposed to happen or not?