Storing a 29" CRT Arcade monitor

This is a step-by-step record of how I boxed up a Nanao MS9-29s CRT monitor for indefinite storage.

Hesitate to call it a 'guide' since this is the first and only time I've done it, based on the scraps of info I could gather from elsewhere.

So it may be amateur-hour (and hopefully not outright wrong) but if it helps anyone else in the community attempting it then I'll consider it a success.

Any corrections or suggestions from experience welcome, I may not pull it out to re-pack it but always good for future reference!

Good luck, hope it helps!

Storing a 29" CRT Arcade monitor

I was lucky enough to pick up a pair of MS9-29s monitors in Sega cages a while back, and after getting both chassis serviced by Jomac one is in my E2. The other lived under a desk in the spare bedroom but just looked like an accident waiting to happen so it became time to get it stored.

Either my Google-fu is weak (yeah OK it is :redface) or there is very little decent actionable advice on storing CRTs without needing proper shelving or other kit. I rent so wouldn't be able to commit to that - it would need to be all self-contained, movable, and not require permanent fixtures or a specific place.

So I gathered between a local self-storage box shop, online, and household spares:-

• A heavy-duty cardboard box larger than the monitor (MS9-29s is about W80cm x H70cm x D60cm)
  
• A plastic cover to fit a lounge chair/armchair
  
• Clear tape and dispenser (clear is better as you can see writing on the box through it)
  
• A 1kg Silica Gel packet - yes it's probably overkill, but moisture = very bad so it's worth it
  
• A roll of bubble wrap
  
• A bunch of polystyrene and foam packing materials saved from a furniture delivery
  
• An old, clean, towel and bedsheet
  

WARNING: The usual precautions apply for any activity involving CRT monitors. Always safely discharge them before moving. Get a friend to help lift. Google for safety precautions!

Step 1: Closing and sealing the bottom of the box

Flip the box over and apply the tape to close the box flaps. Then create a grid pattern of tape past the edges and up onto the sides to strengthen the bottom of the box (shit's heavy, yo). I ended up just taping/sealing the whole surface. If they're not already taped off, seal all the edges/corners for strength and against moisture/dirt. Flip the box back over.

Step 2: Padding the inside floor of the box

Since the monitor will be going in screen-down for weight distribution (they were shipped this way from manufacturers), there's got to be something between the screen and the floor of the box. To go through all this effort and it be scratched or cracked through handling would be tragic!

Put a decent and even layer of packing material down (in my case polystyrene), bearing in mind it will be compressed by the monitor's weight, and optionally put an old towel over that as a softer contact surface. I found it necessary to tape my towel roughly into place to prevent movement while inserting the monitor.

Step 3: Preparing the plastic cover

Open out the plastic cover and lay it out over the mouth of the box, roughly centred. There's going to be plenty of spare cover which is needed to completely wrap the monitor - no need to cut it down any smaller unless you got a truly enormous cover.

Watch out for breezes if doing this outdoors. <_<

Step 4: Heft that mother in there

Disclaimer: This is a 2-person job - it just is. Even if you're Andre the bloody Giant it's still going to be tricky to lift the monitor up high enough and be able to lower it straight down in a controlled way, while also keeping the box and cover in the right place. You can't rest the weight on the side of the box, it's got to happen in one movement - and the more attempts it takes the greater the risk of mistakes.

Warm up those shoulders, people! Please don't drop your monitors and blame me!! Ye be warned.

The monitor goes in screen-down, shouldn't matter to which side it's oriented if the box is square but pay attention if yours isn't. The plastic cover will gather around it as it goes, don't worry it folds over itself a bit underneath.

My monitor had a Sega cage which makes things easier to grip and shift about. If you don't have one, consider tilting the box onto its side and inserting horizontally, just be very careful.

Step 5: Securing and protecting the remote board

Loosely wind the remote board's cable around the board, being careful not to stress the connectors at either end. Wrap the wound remote board in bubble wrap and tape it closed. To secure it, tape it to the inside of the plastic cover.

Step 6: Securing and protecting the neckboard

Enclose the neckboard in bubble wrap and tape it closed, being careful to only tape the bubble wrap to itself. I didn't disconnect the earth cable, but if it's annoying that should be fine to do.

This step might be skipped if you're working with a Sega cage that has a metal neckboard shield.

Step 7: Silica Gel for moisture protection

Assuming you got some Silica Gel to bag in with the monitor to prevent moisture build up over time, and you really should, tape it to the inside of the plastic cover to secure it. I chose the opposite side to the chassis just in case, since I bought a 1kg bag in a fit of paranoia.

Step 8: Closing and taping the plastic cover airtight

Gather the edges of the plastic cover and gradually seal it shut with tape. Don't rush, or just bunch it together and tape it in loops as this makes gaps more likely. The goal is to be as airtight as possible to avoid moisture getting in.

If you have a Sega cage, this is a good chance to create a surface between the arms that can help protect the neckboard further. By pulling the cover reasonably tight over the gap and taping down, several layers of this make a pretty good barrier.

Step 9: Filling empty space with packing materials

Take your chosen packing material and fill any space around the now-sealed monitor. Avoid creating gaps/pockets of space, ensure the material is firmly in place without breaking the seal of the plastic cover or damaging the contents.

The theory here is air within the box can be compressed, meaning pressure or impact from outside can transfer to damage the contents, or allow the contents to move about. By pre-filling the box firmly and leaving minimal gaps, the box as a solid whole becomes harder to compress. It can take knocks or be moved about with minimal effect, within reason.

At this point I had some extra polystyrene blocks so used them to create a brace at the top of the box where the Sega cage was. This should provide some extra protection but is entirely optional. An old bedsheet was used to just even out the top of the packing materials.

Step 10: Final checks, labelling, and closing and taping the top of the box

While holding the top box flaps shut, give all sides and the top some pushes to see if there's any obvious flexing. If so, consider correcting that with more packing materials if you can face the prospect of re-doing it (I wouldn't blame you if not). It should feel pretty solid all over with minimal 'give'.

Write on the box (ideally in black marker) very obvious warnings and advice about how heavy it is, which way is up (with arrows), which side is the top, and that it's really heavy and fragile. It may be useful to actually write 'Computer Monitor' as most people will know what to expect. You don't want someone hurting themselves or mistreating it.

Finally follow instructions for Step 1, to completely seal the top of the box in the same way. If you want you could continue further still and completely seal the box with tape, be warned a full standard roll won't quite make it.

Doomsday preppers for the arcade world, I like it. You need to start stashing an arsenal of Namco light guns to defend your tubes when the tube-pocalypse is upon us.

Here I am storing spare tubes (not the chassis) in a garden shed due to lack of space. :-)

May the CRT gods favour us in this uncertain future.

Ha yes I was thinking if it needs to stay in there for a few years and survive a couple of house moves it had better be on the cautious side! No doubt they're tougher than I fear but you read some horror stories about tube necks being cracked or screens being badly scratched, and it's enough to make you paranoid.

Hedging against the tube-pocalypse indeed ;)

May the CRT gods favour us in this uncertain future.

Amen brother!

Nice work, thanks for sharing.

This is how I store my tubes, the plant gives it some shade on the hotter days and the occasional rain storm keeps the dust off it. :lol

Nice work, thanks for sharing.

This is how I store my tubes, the plant gives it some shade on the hotter days and the occasional rain storm keeps the dust off it. :lol

 

Ty for sharing..

Mine were planted last year...:D

Sorry for bumping this thread, but I figured this would be an appropriate thread to ask.

I recently purchased a working MS2931 Chassis and Tube suitable for the blast city and plan to install it to my blast city cabinet in around 2 months time.

I currently store the monitor with the monitor facing down(protected with a insulation) on the bottom shelf in my garage.

Would this be advised or should I change my approach?