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Fluro lights with ballast


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We have a dual 4' fluro in the garage. The tubes went one by one over the last few months. Changed tubes and only one worked. Swapped them and the problem status with the fitting not the tube. Went to change the starter and found there isn't one. There's a pair of ballasts which I'm not familiar with.

 

Forgot about it for a month or three as one tube was working. Swapped the tubes when one died. Got another month or so out of that one.

 

So one ballast is completely not working and the other seems to kill tubes faster than it should which makes me think I should change both ballasts? House is only 6 or 7 years old, is that the expected life of a balkast? Am I better off just replacing the fitting entirely?

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It's faster to just buy a new flouro batten assembly from Middy's or L&H.

 

Looking at the prices on ballasts I was thinking that might be the case.

 

I was eyeing off the flat LED panels they have at bunnings next to the fluro tubes too: https://www.bunnings.com.au/ledvance-30cm-x-120cm-32w-led-panel-cool-white_p4390561

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You have Electronic ballast/s.

Come in a huge variety single twin 3x 4x 6x

will not last as long as a good ol fashioned ballast.

They burn out the filaments in the tubes faster due to the frequency than run at.

Ballast are available, probably need to order from a wholesaler (cause if it's not a light switch or a power point, they won't stock it)

Led is the go these days.

Pain in the arse to swap out(I've done heaps)

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Have you considered using LED tubes?

I recently replaced all my 8 or so 4 foot fluoros and very happy.

https://reductionrevolution.com.au/products/philips-led-tube-t8

Very quick swap if you keep the ballast, which I did, but you can also bypass or remove the ballast ( which looks necessary for electronic ballasts ).

Electronic ballast fitting doesn't have starters so in this case it's not an option, cheaper to replace the fitting.

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no place to put the "led starter" which is a thermal fuse.

 

The install guide for those linked earlier just says wire directly to the tubes:

686996831_Screenshotfrom2017-12-2809-55-05.png.91841ba40f0ca1394b0e653d5b7d0de5.png

 

There's part of me that feel like it could be a bad idea. What would happen if someone placed a regular tube in such a fitting? Also, the tube sockets on the fitting I have can rotate 360 degrees. There's no way to guarantee that someone has put the bulbs in in a particular orientation.

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The install guide for those linked earlier just says wire directly to the tubes:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]121750[/ATTACH]

 

There's part of me that feel like it could be a bad idea. What would happen if someone placed a regular tube in such a fitting? Also, the tube sockets on the fitting I have can rotate 360 degrees. There's no way to guarantee that someone has put the bulbs in in a particular orientation.

 

That's what the sticker is for, it's a legal requirement and must be placed where it's visible so you know it's been retrofitted with a led.

Most of the led tubes only light 180 degrees they are designed with the pins in its right spot. Yes you can turn them around 180 degrees.

Only issue I've seen is some twin fittings have the tombstones on a 45 degree angle out not 90 degrees downwards.

You will loose a bit of light due to the angle the tube sits.

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Just replace with the LED ones, I changed mine to LED (whole unit) a week ago in the carport and they are brighter, they are instant start, I now have them hooked to a motion sensor, they are cheap enough, I also grabbed some extras for the shed to be fitted at a later date.

 

https://www.bunnings.com.au/deta-18w-twin-batten-fixed-led-light-with-diffuser-cover_p4371045

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If you want to repair what you have its easy enough providing the rest of the fitting is in good shape.

Check the lampholder/tombstones as well as the starter holders.

If you replace the ballasts swap out the starters as well, if you have 4 foot fluro`s the starters will be rated 4W - 65W do not use the 4W - 22W

Place new tubes in, if you want a bit of extra light wipe down the fitting and diffuser and fit tri phoshor tubes they have green end caps on the fluorescent tube.

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Just replace with the LED ones, I changed mine to LED (whole unit) a week ago in the carport and they are brighter, they are instant start, I now have them hooked to a motion sensor, they are cheap enough, I also grabbed some extras for the shed to be fitted at a later date.

 

https://www.bunnings.com.au/deta-18w-twin-batten-fixed-led-light-with-diffuser-cover_p4371045

 

As they are ballasted they are already instant on.

 

That does look like a nice unit to replace it with though, especially given that ballasts seem to run about $20 a pop, and I really would like if it was motion activated.

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

If you want to repair what you have its easy enough providing the rest of the fitting is in good shape.

Check the lampholder/tombstones as well as the starter holders.

If you replace the ballasts swap out the starters as well, if you have 4 foot fluro`s the starters will be rated 4W - 65W do not use the 4W - 22W

Place new tubes in, if you want a bit of extra light wipe down the fitting and diffuser and fit tri phoshor tubes they have green end caps on the fluorescent tube.

 

No starters that I can see, only the ballasts under the plate. No diffuser to wipe down either, just bare tubes. I'll go take a picture.

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Why so?

 

Because it's work. I know exactly what he means, I've done hundreds if not maybe a thousand of fluoro to LED retro fits.

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

The install guide for those linked earlier just says wire directly to the tubes:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]121750[/ATTACH]

 

There's part of me that feel like it could be a bad idea. What would happen if someone placed a regular tube in such a fitting? Also, the tube sockets on the fitting I have can rotate 360 degrees. There's no way to guarantee that someone has put the bulbs in in a particular orientation.

 

That's why this work must be carried out by a licenced electrical worker as it's considered fixed wiring nor is this advice either for anyone to go and rewire a light fitting ( disclaimer ). Essentially best practice is to maintain a series circuit, the starter is replaced with fuse link and the tube can be placed in either direction because the next person replacing the tube is probably a handyman. If you just supply mains to the lampholder it's imperative there is a fuse link in and the sticker indicating the mains side because if you place the LED tube in the wrong way it will blow the fuse link. LED tubes take mains supply from one end only and a dead short at the other end so when in a series circuit it doesn't matter what direction the LED is placed in. Electronic ballasts require some rewiring in order to maintain the original fitting.

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