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  • Page 9 of 9 FirstFirst ... 789
    Results 81 to 90 of 90

    Thread: PS2 Guncon2 PCB to Original Namco Arcade Gun mod

    1. #81
      Boojakascha is offline
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      Quote Originally Posted by Syntax_x View Post
      Noticed something off, you have the single shot 555 OUT connected to some other stuff when it should have a clean run to the switch.
      Wow, I am so happy you found that! On the schematic it's correct just the routing is bad. No idea how I messed that one up! Eagle (the program I was using) has a visual helper to rout which displays yellow wires to show what has to go were. I guess because the two pads are completely parallel I was misjudging the yellow wires. For other seeing this picture: this will not isolate the pad of the capacitor, it's traces are on the other side.

      Quote Originally Posted by Syntax_x View Post
      Something else to note if you redesign the board is to link the centre leg of the mosfet to the big pad for the tab just incase some people bolt it down instead of solder and there is a poor connection.
      I am very unsure. The bulk pad (the big back) is internally connected to source (pin 3) and just via a diode to drain (pin 2, middle). Soldering it to the middle pin would short circuit pins 3 and 2. However I guess here is a other flaw: I should have connected to copper pour with the 24 V Gnd rather than the 5 V Gnd. As it is now, permanently connects the two Gnd, which should just be connected in the case of a pressed trigger. In an updated design I will connect the pour to 24 V Gnd instead. For the existing boards I will isolate bulk to the PCB. You see, it is just bolted to the board for heat reasons. The bulk doesn't have to be soldered, as it is already connected to 24 V Gnd via the source (pin 3).

      Quote Originally Posted by Syntax_x View Post
      I also see no use for the FULL2 or GND vias
      FULL2 goes to the DPDT. Did you leave it not connected?
      Gnd is to make the board more versatile, simplify connecting other guns or multiple guns. Also it connects the pour to a permanent Gnd, creating a RF shield even if the player chooses to not use any recoil for a play session.

      - - - Updated - - -

      I am somewhat confused as how you connect the DPDT switch.
      Looking at your scheme, attached in the post here, would you agree to the pin identities? Because it seems you connected my board rather different (look at common 1) eugene_post.jpg

    2. #82
      Syntax_x is offline
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      For the last time you don't want to have a permanent ground on the board, ditch that thought. It would leave the board permanently activated.

      mosfet DRAIN is directly connected to the heatsink tab of the mosfet, same for pretty much any mosfet, go get your multimeter and test there is no diode inbetween ect. Like I said earlier, link the middle mosfet pad to the tab incase someone makes a poor connnection. Then again theres not really use for the 2 vias GND and TrOut so i guess i doesnt matter.
      Dont change ground planes ect, everything is working fine.

      As far as the switch goes, follow what ive done, I spent enough time making the schematic and then showing exactly how your board should be wired up in an earlier post.
      https://imgur.com/BxXJzCl

      I don't follow your naming scheme at all. Your saying setting B1 and such for the first time now, that does not correlate to your board naming scheme.

      I asked where TRIN is supposed to go? I find no use for it **EDIT** OK When i drew that sketchy wiring of your board i mixed up the TrOUT and TRIN. Fixed. No idea why I named the DPDT switch SPDT, was in a rush sorry.
      Now I find no use for TrOUT and GND lol.
      Last edited by Syntax_x; 1 Week Ago at 08:54 PM.

    3. #83
      Boojakascha is offline
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      Quote Originally Posted by Syntax_x View Post
      For the last time you don't want to have a permanent ground on the board, ditch that thought. It would leave the board permanently activated.
      As for the connection to bulk. Like I have said I will resolve that issue. In the mean time I decided that I will just leave the mask under the MOSFET intact.

      Quote Originally Posted by Syntax_x View Post
      Pin 2 of the mosfet DRAIN is directly connected to the heatsink tab of the mosfet, same for pretty much any mosfet, go get your multimeter and test there is no diode inbetween ect. Like I said earlier, link the middle mosfet pad to the tab incase someone makes a poor connnection. Then again theres not really use for the 2 vias GND and TrOut so i guess i doesnt matter.
      I don't get the sense of connection pin 2 to the bulk, if it is already connected? Could you elaborate what you mean with that?
      I followed you suggestion to measure with for continuity. You are right. But that is very strange, really... Wikipedia says:
      "For the symbols in which the bulk, or body, terminal is shown, it is here shown internally connected to the source (i.e., the black triangles in the diagrams in columns 2 and 5). This is a typical configuration, but by no means the only important configuration. In general, the MOSFET is a four-terminal device, and in integrated circuits many of the MOSFETs share a body connection, not necessarily connected to the source terminals of all the transistors."
      I bought my particular MOSFET at late night, so I missed that the data sheet put a D onto bulk... That sucks, but it's nothing I can't fix. As a none native the Wikipedia citation reads for me: "The triangle in the picture is the bulk". But it either means something else, or it is wrong...
      shittypedia.jpg
      Looking at the schematic drain (therefore bulk) is definitely something I don't want to connect to the copper pour. So I will simply re-isolate the exposed portion.

      Quote Originally Posted by Syntax_x View Post
      As far as the switch goes, follow what ive done, I spent enough time making the schematic and then showing exactly how your board should be wired up in an earlier post.
      It is hard to follow your DPDT guidelines, as the pins swap identity every picture you have made.
      8UceGfW.jpg
      eugene_post.jpg
      BxXJzCl.jpg
      Could you please answer this question in a "yes or no" manner: Is the pin identity in your scheme shown in the middle (gray tone) supposed to be the same as on the bottom most picture (your most recent picture)?

      Quote Originally Posted by Syntax_x View Post
      I don't follow your naming scheme at all. Your saying setting B1 and such for the first time now, that does not correlate to your board naming scheme.
      A und B refer to the two possible settings, full automatic (A) and semi automatic (B), as shown in the very first picture in this post: https://www.aussiearcade.com/showthr...44#post1204744
      It was also used in the schematic version (based on your gray scheme, remind you) of the post 72
      Attachment 137843
      In post 75 I first mentioned that you misunderstand pin identity. Because of this I referred to the paper latter I wrote to you, as it contains a legend and explanations. In many PNs and post 76 I carried on to refer to the settings and pins in this manner.

    4. #84
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      The top picture should be completely disregarded, that was me misunderstanding the board layout entirely. I thought you wanted a switch to mount to the board

      The next 2 pictures "should" be identical in switch wiring unless I stuffed something else up in a hurry, so YES. If you see a discrepancy please point it out.

      - - - Updated - - -

      Man I must be having a day, does this look better?

      https://imgur.com/fp6tnLP

      Im so much better at just building this stuff and getting it working than I am at documenting it :/ In all fairness I was doing it with the pedal balanced on my lap in a dark room with the switch in the hardest corner to see.

    5. #85
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      Quote Originally Posted by Syntax_x View Post
      does this look better?
      Perfect, thank you very much!
      Don't worry I do most stuff under the week after work, very sleepy and mess up things too (as nicely documented in this thread).

    6. #86
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      Regarding the Mosfet and copper pour, I wouldnt worry too much about making the area large enough for adequate heat dissipation, what we are using it for it doesn't really heat up.

      It will eventually die though due to the constant switching, and if you cut the diode out of the Namco guns solenoid plug to make the recoil sharper then it puts even more stress on the Mosfet. Bypassing the 100R resistor has a similar effect.

      But who cares, during my tests I left a gun on rapidfire for 2 hours with no issues besides going half deaf.

    7. #87
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      Quote Originally Posted by Syntax_x View Post
      It will eventually die though due to the constant switching, and if you cut the diode out of the Namco guns solenoid plug to make the recoil sharper then it puts even more stress on the Mosfet. Bypassing the 100R resistor has a similar effect.

      But who cares, during my tests I left a gun on rapidfire for 2 hours with no issues besides going half deaf.
      I guess in this case one could fall back to your initial design with the SSR =)

      I wasn't able to get it working using the newest suggestions, even after fixing my routing error... I take a small break now and then I start over doing a similar driver to drive a laser.

      Edit:
      The gun is still fine. I will put it to use in the future.

    8. #88
      mR_CaESaR is offline
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      Finally got around to finishing the v2 design

      It's not pretty, but she works!

      The spaghetti of wires!



      The top side doesn't look too bad



      More wires! Now that it's tested, I'll try and clean it up in a project box and will attempt at making the pcbs swappable (will do a gcon and gcon2 mod, maybe at some point dc too)



      Video of it in action



      Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

    9. #89
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      mR_CaESaR, if you "understand" the design and want more boards I can send you the two remaining boards I have for free. I stop working with that particular design, don't have a use for the boards and will do my own design.

    10. #90
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      Quote Originally Posted by Boojakascha View Post
      mR_CaESaR, if you "understand" the design and want more boards I can send you the two remaining boards I have for free. I stop working with that particular design, don't have a use for the boards and will do my own design.
      I'd be happy to get it and try and make it work.

      Thanks!

      Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

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