WTB - 14 Inch Tube

Hey guys,

Looking for a 14 inch, curved tube in Brissie. Don't need the whole TV, as it's going into a cocktail with a Joey chassis, but if you have a complete TV, I don't mind gutting it for the tube.

If you have a 14 inch stashed that you don't want, let me know. Thanks!

What type Pat, CR-23, CR-25, etc?

Regards,

Johns-Arcade.

Hey @Johns-Arcade. The current one I have pairs with the Italian made chassis that Jomac used to sell, I believe he can't get them anymore. It's a 10 pin neck with yoke readings of 14.5 and 2.4

Can you post a picture of the neck board showing the socket?

If it's 10 pin it's likely a CR-23

Regards,

Johns-Arcade.

I have a couple here Pat, but they are both CR-25 :(

Regards,

Johns-Arcade.

Ok, I assume that means mine is CR-23? :) Long story short, playing the cocktail cab this arvo, tube switched off, chassis started beeping, no power to tube. Joey has told me it means the chassis is shorted and in overload shutdown, which is odd, as they are reliable as all hell. Tube has been showing signs of arcing in the past, despite me cleaning it within an inch of its life and no visible or audible arcing. Thinking whatever the tube was doing has killed the chassis. Need to get a new tube so that when Joey repairs the chassis, I know that I have eliminated the chance of the tube potentially killing the chassis again.

@Kaizen says he has some 8 pin tubes stashed that I can steal, and Joey says he can replace the neckboard with an 8-pin, so that could be an option.

Ok, I assume that means mine is CR-23? :) Long story short, playing the cocktail cab this arvo, tube switched off, chassis started beeping, no power to tube. Joey has told me it means the chassis is shorted and in overload shutdown, which is odd, as they are reliable as all hell. Tube has been showing signs of arcing in the past, despite me cleaning it within an inch of its life and no visible or audible arcing. Thinking whatever the tube was doing has killed the chassis. Need to get a new tube so that when Joey repairs the chassis, I know that I have eliminated the chance of the tube potentially killing the chassis again.

 

@Kaizen says he has some 8 pin tubes stashed that I can steal, and Joey says he can replace the neckboard with an 8-pin, so that could be an option.

I can also stick your tube on the rejuvenator and check it for you.

Regards,

Johns-Arcade.

I think I have a 10 pin I just removed in has a working chassis with a bad horizontal width coil, that works with a little macgyvaring. I was gonna leave it in the cocktail but person buying wants a flat in it. I also have a second chassis that it a match to the tube also as I had x2 of these cans at one stage, the coil is no good in that one ether.

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I can also stick your tube on the rejuvenator and check it for you.

 

Regards,

 

Johns-Arcade.

What exactly would putting it on the rejuvenator do John? The tube itself gets a beautiful image, totally bloody glorious and is hands down the best 14 inch tube I have ever owned. If you can test the tube itself for me and know for sure that it's not gonna kill my chassis, I will happily keep using it. It will be a shame to toss it, as it's so bloody nice. I've had lots of arcade guys play it and comment on how good the image is.

- - - Updated - - -

I think I have a 10 pin I just removed in has a working chassis with a bad horizontal width coil, that works with a little macgyvaring. I was gonna leave it in the cocktail but person buying wants a flat in it. I also have a second chassis that it a match to the tube also as I had x2 of these cans at one stage, the coil is no good in that one ether.

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Aussie Arcade

Hey mate, if the ones from Kaizen don't work out with my chassis, I'll get in contact with you for sure. Thanks.

Oh shit mine is a 12 pin values 50.5 and 2.8

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I’m in Bundaberg but can post it, I don’t want a arm and a leg just happy to find homes

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I can test the tube and see what it's doing Pat.

Where is it arcing, at the Anode or internally?

Regards,

Johns-Arcade.

I can test the tube and see what it's doing Pat.

 

Where is it arcing, at the Anode or internally?

 

Regards,

 

Johns-Arcade.

Before it died, it was getting random picture interference. Every now and then the image would jump and a white, static line would appear on the screen. It was intermittent and random, line would appear in different locations and the size of the image jump would change. It wasn't totally regular, but at least once every 1-2 minutes. I pulled the monitor, cleaned the tube within an inch of its life, still the same. However, this arvo is was playing like a song after another vigorous clean with isopropyl, no jumping for hours, I was finally happy to see it fixed. Then it died totally with the black screen and beeping chassis.

No anode arcing, although it has done that in the past before it was cleaned. No yoke arcing, so whatever was happening, was happening internally. More than happy to bring it down to you to test on the rejuvenator if that is going to let me know if the tube is boned.