gluing plastic

I have several plastic bits of a LAI Outrunners cab that need gluing , reinforcing and filling. What is the specific type of plastic they are made out of called. I have used araldite and small bits of reinforcing mesh before but was wondering what others have used. Maybe there is a better plastic glue. Also a good filler suitable for plastics. I couldn't find another thread on here about it but if there is please let me know. thanks

Your going to want something with a bit of give in it, maybe liquid nails clear in the mesh idea as the lower coat and car body filler to fill the cracks and can be sanded back and a paint over the top.

 

The plastic I would say has been deteriorated by the sun at some stage because the were quite flexible and took an impact before cracking originally.

Your going to want something with a bit of give in it, maybe liquid nails clear in the mesh idea as the lower coat and car body filler to fill the cracks and can be sanded back and a paint over the top.

 

The plastic I would say has been deteriorated by the sun at some stage because the were quite flexible and took an impact before cracking originally.

 

Yes it has definitely gone brittle . I wish I could find replacements for the dash but with a bit of creative work I think they will come up ok. I did the dash on an Outrun a few years back I will see if I can find pics.

Would definitely try Sikafex FC11 (polyurathene) from bunnings. Silicone I would avoid at all costs due to once its down nothing else will stick to it and removal is a nightmare. Sikaflex if very flexible and sets quickly. Only issue is it can be messy applying. I havent tried sanding it before - try on a scrap piece. This stuff is removable with razorblade if need be.

Fibreglass repair kit maybe

Fibreglass repair kit maybe

 

Thanks, I think this is more like what I was thinking. Do you think it will adhere to the plastic? If I can work from the back and make that stable then I can fill the rest with body filler. But maybe the whole thing is so brittle that I have no option but to find a replacement.

Do you think it will adhere to the plastic?

yer would adhere enough, just fibreglass under side as support and then fill the shape, You would need to Scuff the plastic up really good with heavy grit Paper where you are planning to lay the glass, give it a wipe down with some acetone, and use a small fiberglass steel Roller to roll the glass, that makes a big difference to how good it sticks if its rolled out of all air, much better than just trying to get the air out with a brush.

It might be worth gluing as much together first and then glass under the glued plastic.

 

the fiberglass suggestion is the best option.

I wouldn't right off the Liquid Nails clear. I've been using the stuff to stick to galvanized steel pipe, repaired a fibreglass water tank, sticks to glass. It is my go to product at the moment.

 

It sets clear in 24 hours and is exactly the same consistency as araldite when it dries.

 

I've found 3mm layers is the best way to use it.

 

If it's Selleys and made just down the road from me, it works.

 

http://www.selleys.com.au/assets/131/selleys-liquid-nails-clear_large.jpg What materials is this product suitable for?

 

MDF

Particleboard

Timber

Concrete and Masonry

Tiles and ceramics

Most plastic – pre test plastic to determine compatibility (Not suitable for use for polyethylene and polypropylene.)

 

This is what they claim but in my opinion anything that sticks to tiles or ceramics pretty much sticks to anything.

 

And there is this stuff I would also recommend. It sets rock hard with no flex.

 

http://www.selleys.com.au/assets/775/Selleys_Knead_It_Multipurpose_S_large.jpg

 

Where can this product be used?

 

Repair and replacement – timber, metal, masonry, many plastics, ceramics

Mending – toys, appliances, lawn mowers, sports equipment etc

Sealing – leaks in gutters and downpipes

Patching – chipped concrete, floors, bricks, blocks etc

Attaching – fixtures, machine tags, signs etc

Anchoring – bolts, screws, housings etc

Moulding – to reform-reshape damaged timber, metal, masonry, plastics, ceramics

Moulding to rebuild – wrought iron fencung

Forming knobs and missing parts

Balancing – table legs etc

Fixing a damaged roof tile

Repairing a water (drinking) tank

Lost the head off your hammer? Make a new one with knead it

Replace chip in golf club (woods)

Not recommended for filling or sealing joints/cracks subject to movement as the cured product is extremely hard and inflexible

Does not adhere to polyethylene, polypropylene or Polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon?) or silicone rubber

Pot life (working life) decreases above 20°C

Set time increases at temperatures below 20°C.

 

Steel in a tube this stuff.

 

Actually, this stuff really is steel in a tube. I repaired a motor crank case with this stuff..

 

http://www.selleys.com.au/assets/777/Selleys_Knead_It_Steel_110g_S_large.jpg

just my suggestion but stripping out and starting a fresh on the shell/s. Remove and refit. As it is so busted up I would be reinforcing the inside with strips of aluminium to make sure it is all straight, aligned, like adding bracing, whilst still strong the aluminium can be bent/curved where needed, and as suggested using fibreglass to hold reinforcements in place then once shell is structurally sound lay down sheets of fibreglass. Once they have set fill the areas that are missing, again using may fibreglass or builders bog. It's a big job ahead of you. If you have a sample/broken off piece of the shell take it to say Bunnings and get it colour matched for you respray. Then the prime, sand, more prime, undercoat and so on.

Hi , the plastic type is ABS , it is quite strong and impact resistant new , but with age and uv light becomes brittle and will discolor .Now if you have the broken pieces you could weld them back together (you can do this easily with a soldering iron). You

could also make some liquid ABS by disolving small pieces of ABS in acetone, and then using this as glue to stick all the pieces together . This is probably the best way to fix an ABS piece that you can't find a replacement for but if you want the fix to be permenant you will need to reinforce the repair some how. The best way to do that is to fibreglass the whole back of the piece ( a very smelly process and not cheap ).

Hi everyone, I have been posting my progress in the restoration section but I thought I would add it here so people looking at this thread could see the results. Thanks for everyone's ideas. This is the method I used , to help others faced with the same problem . I super glued all the pieces I had back together. I then fibre glassed the back of the control panel. I filled the holes with auto body filler then after lots of sanding applied an auto primer and filler. Sanded heaps more then applied the top coat. Appliance White epoxy. The results are amazing. Stronger than the original panels. I will continue this thread in the restoration section , under Outrunners. I hope this helps others . The first 2 pics are before, then the marquee restoration followed by the control panel .