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CENTAUR BURGER (with the lot)


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great choice in colour and wow what a finish, but is it finished? the underside I mean.

......and off topic, you reckon' I talk a different language :huh: I'll be the kettle

 

OK, yes, agreed.. I can sometimes be the pot

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ok hes going to be expecting a stir up and i dont want to disappoint him but ill keep it subtle cos hes still not talking to me from the last one :evil

 

the power braid staples scotty.. did you know you can get black ones ? :D

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To wrap up the PF segment of this journey lets talk HOLES. (G.i. holes, slots, mech holes, rollovers, insert holes, etc.) All of which are looking a bit ragged.

As is, they are PRIME candidates for 'hard-to-clean' crud build up (carbon deposits, polish, dust, you name it).

We want to utilise the fact that the top couple of millimetres are nicely sealed with 2Pack clear (from our multi-angled clear-coating passes), so we are gonna whiz half way up the walls with the Dremel, stepping from 240 to 400 to 600 , switching between the 6mm, 8mm and 10mm barrel.

Flip the PF 180 degrees once you think you’re done and go again.

Then i’m literally gonna swipe in slatherings of legit Carnauba wax, enough to fill the grain and then some.

You wanna work it in so it feels like it’s impregnating the wood, massage it.

If you don’t have a fine wax applicator then use a sealed microfibre (NOT a normal microfibre)

Give it some time to flash off then either machine (Dremel and soft polish attachment) or hand buff.

If the paint on either side is fully cured - and I mean FULLY CURED! - then feel free to give it a slathering of wax as well while you have everything out :)

Phew… NEXT!!!!!

 

CBWTL25.thumb.jpg.871a36f010a5ef9884fc74b4848e3295.jpgCBWTL26.thumb.jpg.5016cb9179c86637b9db645d32377847.jpgCBWTL27.thumb.jpg.163369d2802c4140492dd02c9b5d5afd.jpgCBWTL28.thumb.jpg.f36a5ec4a94fda11e59601ea6cda9124.jpgCBWTL29.thumb.jpg.a4e9f69c5a44569078bff1b31e5ba4e7.jpgCBWTL30.thumb.jpg.091d99b13fc6467b7d465c03dbb9e631.jpgCBWTL31.thumb.jpg.cb78df181a4330e795308a9b670a7a8f.jpgCBWTL32.thumb.jpg.8cfef0c3215d48c89d47799e8f957994.jpgCBWTL33.thumb.jpg.8d8a6f28f500a63032a5a6aa01f32060.jpg

 

- - - Updated - - -

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Hey i got that wax excellent was worried i bought rubbish for big bucks

 

Yes @pinball god, it's the goods. One of the only remaining TRUE Carnauba's around I believe.

And I know the up-front price is daunting whilst staring at that little tin, but by god it'll go for miles!

My original tin lasted me over 15 years of custom painting.

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

Love your work, but you have made me feel paint inadequate now :cry I painted the underside of the Battle Pinny grey with a roller....I'm not worthy, Im not worthy....

 

Hahaha Grunta! With the miracles you've achieved with your Battle Pin Don't EVER feel inadequate!

This thread is basically just a public airing of one man's lunacy, so in the words of The Living End... Roll on! ROLL ON!

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Attention to detail, I love it. Underside colour, I would have gone white gloss but that's just me. I would like to show off everything modified on the underside and what bigger contrast colour than white but, a pig to keep clean.

 

Silver is a nice compromise.:)

 

About the flipper assemblies I made up. I fitted them on my Black Pyramid last week and did a marked improvement.

 

These were just the Bally linear assemblies converted back to Bally SS links, external tension spring instead of the SS era compression springs, micro switches instead of open EOS switches and a 2.2uf 630volt cap to stop contact burn.

 

The Good...

 

A marked increase in power especially in the last of the flipper stroke. Backflipping is much improved but I did fit Williams flipper bats and I will go back to the Bally shaped bats when I find yellow ones because the backflipping ability did get effected by the actually shape of the bats themselves. Going back to Bally bats will take that backflip angle back further that will suit the machine better.

 

The flipper "drop back" caused by the flipper in the up position and the ball just hitting the bat tip and dropping back slightly from the slack in the linear design is gone completely. It is perfect. It did exactly as expected.

 

The micro switch EOS, well no sparking to be seen as expected by the caps anyway. They seem to do the overall job of an EOS better. Much easier to set them that's for sure. The flippers are much "snappier".

 

The external spring, this is one part of the linear design that was better. Better because the plunger mounted spring doesn't chew out the link, is no where near as hard to work the flipper taking less power from the flippers themselves.

 

I'm actually getting some air balls off the two stand up targets at the very top of the Black Pyramid playfield so power is way up.

 

The Bad...

 

More than about 50 games played through them is required to thoroughly test mechs with so many changes to give a good reliability test. :realmad:

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About the flipper assemblies I made up. I fitted them on my Black Pyramid last week and did a marked improvement.

These were just the Bally linear assemblies converted back to Bally SS links, external tension spring instead of the SS era compression springs, micro switches instead of open EOS switches and a 2.2uf 630volt cap to stop contact burn.

The Good...

A marked increase in power especially in the last of the flipper stroke. Backflipping is much improved but I did fit Williams flipper bats and I will go back to the Bally shaped bats when I find yellow ones because the backflipping ability did get effected by the actually shape of the bats themselves. Going back to Bally bats will take that backflip angle back further that will suit the machine better.

The flipper "drop back" caused by the flipper in the up position and the ball just hitting the bat tip and dropping back slightly from the slack in the linear design is gone completely. It is perfect. It did exactly as expected.

The micro switch EOS, well no sparking to be seen as expected by the caps anyway. They seem to do the overall job of an EOS better. Much easier to set them that's for sure. The flippers are much "snappier".

The external spring, this is one part of the linear design that was better. Better because the plunger mounted spring doesn't chew out the link, is no where near as hard to work the flipper taking less power from the flippers themselves.

I'm actually getting some air balls off the two stand up targets at the very top of the Black Pyramid playfield so power is way up.

 

The Bad...

More than about 50 games played through them is required to thoroughly test mechs with so many changes to give a good reliability test. :realmad:

 

Can't wait to see a close up pic of one of these so I can wrap my head one or two of the features! Very exciting.

I'm guessing you are referring to the actual ones you posted pics of earlier. Has much changed?

Am interested to see close up:

- the mounting of the Micro Switch (i.e.. did you drill and tap and if so where, or did it need a mounting tab welded on?)

- the 'hook' points for the external spring (in the end were they naturally occurring, drilled, or did you use a bolt on extender like in your earlier pictures?)

- does the chosen micro-switch have a part number? Wondering if it has any special properties before I go messing around (2 stage? Flat strap? etc.)

...and in terms of 'easier to set them' I guess you are referring to literally just the bending of the wire-form/strap?

 

In regards to the flipper bats, I actually have something planned for later in the piece that takes care of that decision :cool: so happy days there !

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