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Some New Flipper Assemblies To Try On My Black Pyramid.


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Original linear assembly I took out.

 

I hate them, To much slack when the flipper is up meaning a ball that hits the tip of the flipper will result in the flipper dropping a couple of millimeters and the ball you did save is gone. Bally EOS contacts that don't last long and require constant cleaning.

 

fEgaxwgl.jpg

 

New modified flipper assembly I've made up to try.

Replaced the flipper link and plunger with "old style"

Changed the compression spring for a linear tension spring by welding a suitable bracket to the old style pawl.

Replaced the EOS for a micro switch and made a new mount for the micro switch with a slotted hole so the micro can be adjusted. ( micro can be adjusted much finer than an EOS cutting power anywhere from the last 8mm of plunger travel down to 2mm).

Spike quenching capacitor is mounted to the micro switch mount so micro contacts don't burn.

 

pOmRu7xl.jpg

 

About these changes. I have tried micro switches before on SS machines as cabinet switches and the difference was amazing and I put this down to a micro being a far more positive style of switch being either on or off.

 

This is the first time I will be trying a micro as the EOS and seeing as the contacts in the micro can't be cleaned like a normal EOS, I'm putting in a cap across the micro's contacts.

 

I think I'll swap the cabinet switches as well for micros because I do know that does make a massive difference.

 

Should be interesting to see how the "new system" works.

 

It wouldn't take much to be better than the original sluggish linear flippers.

 

Just to make it a proper comparison I will be using the same flipper coils that came out of the machine.

 

This is another new design I'm working on to try using Williams late model links but modified, (it uses a steel bush around the 3/16 bolt on the pawl end as well as a steel bush around the plunger roll pin like Sterns are doing), a shortened Williams plunger, a shortened flipper shaft nylon, ( to allow for the smaller diameter Bally flipper coils),and a new plunger backstop so the stroke of the flipper matches the original flipper stroke.

 

I will be using micro EOS on this design but the micro will be mounted directly to the Bally flipper base plate as it needs to be mounted much lower for the Williams pawls.

 

Still a work in progress but this mech is so smooth and shows so much promise, I think this style will be the final one I use for the Black Pyramid.

 

These mechs aren't just for the Black Pyramid, I'll be using the best design on my HomeBrew for the extra flippers but those I will make the base plates as well.

The primary flippers will be modified large coil Williams however.

 

KYzEoWZl.jpg

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I tried microswitches as cab and EOS switches on a couple of homebrew games i built over twenty years ago. They worked well, though i was only running about 25 volts through the coils i was using. the games were only 2/3 the size of a normal cab and i was using 7/8" size bearings for the balls.
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interested to see if the microj switch holds up over time

 

Yes, I did get over 6 months before I sold the Stellar Wars I did previously.

 

I'm using Omron 5 amp micros.

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

Interesting to see another take on this.

 

There's a thread on pinside about linear flippers replacement too: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers/page/11#post-1855100

 

Yes I saw that but I wanted to take it further. It was reassuring to see Vid thought the same as I regarding the linear flipper design.

 

I think the micros will make it better by being able to kill the power coil cycle right at the very end of the stroke unlike normal EOS style.

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

I tried microswitches as cab and EOS switches on a couple of homebrew games i built over twenty years ago. They worked well, though i was only running about 25 volts through the coils i was using. the games were only 2/3 the size of a normal cab and i was using 7/8" size bearings for the balls.

 

Yes, I've was only running 28vDC through the ones I have done before. The micros are rated at 120vDC I'm using however it will be the arcing that kills them.

 

The Williams style one I am still working on is the one I am most impressed with so far.

 

If the micro as an EOS doesn't last I'm thinking ahead of a way to have the EOS drive a transistor and have the transistor do the switching like a simple Fliptronics but only driving the power coil of the so basically the EOS.

 

Maybe the transistor is connecting ground until the EOS is activated but the transistor would be part of the flipper assembly rather than going all the way to the head like normal Fliptronics.

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