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Bally '82 Coils


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Doing an order to do stock up for a complete flipper & coil replacements on my Mr & Mrs Pacman ( '82 Bally). The stock coil for it is a the AQ-25-500/34-4500. Someone previously had told me it would be wise to actually use the coil that came out before this one style, as it would give the older game a little bit more power in the flipper.

 

Does anyone know what model # of coil this would be? First time i've done any work on a Bally & not really familiar with them.

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Bally old or pre linear.....

 

http://www.jeff-z.com/pinball/sbm/repair/playfield-28.jpg

 

Bally linear, (with no EOS switch fitted)....

 

http://www.pin-logic.com/images/bally-black-button-images/BBB-assembly_top_l.jpg

 

While the linear is somewhat of a better design with the plunger pulling in straight every time and therefore preserving the coil sleeve which live a very long life as a result, the pivot point, ( where the plunger attaches to the linkage), is always sloppy especially when the nylon bush on the end of the linkage wears and it wears extremely quickly.

 

The other issue is the nylon inserts that the plunger slides through on the plunger stop. These nylons die real quick as well and once they are worn, you defeat the main good point about the mech that being the plunger is being drawn in straight.

 

The external tension spring is a better idea than the non linear compression spring idea but you can modify the old style assembly to use this type of spring but in saying that, the Bally compression spring didn't really wear bad like the Williams conical springs did on machines like FirePower and later did anyway.

 

In real bad cases the plunger can start to turn rather than staying flat when the linkage bush is excessively worn and jams the flipper up especially when the nylon inserts are worn bad or in extreme cases, completely fallen out.

 

The most noticeable (flipper feel) between the two assembly types are the linear have movement at the flipper tips when in the up position meaning if the ball hits the end of the flipper, it will come back about 1-2mm, ( and it does that when all the parts are brand new), and allows the ball to be lost.

 

The old style can have this same (flipper feel) but it is only when the Bakelite linkage holes are extremely elongated and that takes a long time.

 

The old style is just a better long life setup in my opinion and uses parts that were used for a long series of machines.

 

You have the normal parts that would wear on any pinball flipper assembly but the old style uses more generic, easierly available parts.

 

The linear design uses a couple of parts that are only used on a limited number of machines and along with the normal parts that would normally wear, you have these other parts that fail quite quickly as well.

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Good write up Steve on the old vs the new (back then).

 

I feel myself the Linear design had merit as far as keeping the coil/plunger power active for longer but in actual long term due to more moving parts it was detrimental.

 

Sorry Doug, I know we don't like changing the original but the pre-original IMO was actually better. Sure it needed a coil sleeve sooner but the bugbear today is you have to buy the whole pawl if the nylon bushes are worn out (usually are) and also the little nyliner bushes.

 

I still run my Fathom on the Linear system but I find to keep it tops replacing whole pawls, nyliners, coil sleeves, plunger links is costly but hey it's a Fathom:)

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Good write up Steve on the old vs the new (back then).

 

I feel myself the Linear design had merit as far as keeping the coil/plunger power active for longer but in actual long term due to more moving parts it was detrimental.

 

Sorry Doug, I know we don't like changing the original but the pre-original IMO was actually better. Sure it needed a coil sleeve sooner but the bugbear today is you have to buy the whole pawl if the nylon bushes are worn out (usually are) and also the little nyliner bushes.

 

I still run my Fathom on the Linear system but I find to keep it tops replacing whole pawls, nyliners, coil sleeves, plunger links is costly but hey it's a Fathom:)

 

I still have the linear flipper system on my Black Pyramid to tell you the truth.

 

More the case I still have a pair of brand new pawls and plungers to go in when the brand new ones I put in die but I don't have another set of what you call little nyliner bushes so when they die,that will probably be when I change the flipper assemblies for a pair I have from an old 8 ball.

 

Fortunately I do have many of the old Bally flipper parts as spares.

 

Speaking of linear, the Bally linear sling shot assemblies I do like in fact I would say they are probably the best still available as they push the ball linear to the playfield rather than trying to push the ball into the playfield like a normal slingshot assembly does.

 

Absolutely no need for slingshot mylars when the ball is being pushed across the playfield rather than being driven into it .

Simply working a common slingshot assembly and looking at the angle the slingshot arm travels will demonstrate what I mean by driving the ball into the playfield.

 

Compare that to a linear Bally slingshot assembly and you can see the arm travels flat to the playfield and it also isn't now the lowest thing hanging from the playfield especially when you turn the coil 90 degrees...

 

http://www.marcospecialties.com//images/products/ASE-2593-6/additional4/detail.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Another Coil question for this same machine. I had ordered the kits and new coils as per the above and waiting for them to arrive but in the meantime i cleaned up the old flipper kit and rewired the coil lugs and EOS. I hooked it all up and it was working really well after that. I had a party on the weekend and lots of kids were using the tables ( IE flap, flap flap flap flap etc ) and the same top troublesome flipper seized up. I pulled it apart today just to see what the deal was and the inner coil sleeve was really badly melted - so much so that it was blocking off the clearance completely.

 

What would make the coiil sleeve melt so much? Dodgy coil? Have i likely wired it up wrong (although was confident that was not the case as took photos etc )?

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Replace the coil and hit the flipper button. The EOS switch should be open by about 1/8".

 

Of you want to set it without the power on, pull the plunger into the coil with your finger.

 

Use only the plunger, not the pawl because if the linkage is worn, the pawl won't open the EOS switch as much because of the wear in the linkage.

 

Another test is open the EOS switch with the machine power on and hit the flipper button. If the flipper pulls in hard with the EOS switch held open, you have wired the coil back to front.

 

It should have virtually no strength as when the EOS is opened, it is only required to hold the flipper up, not power it up.

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You need to remember that the flipper coil is two coils windings in the one package. The main power hit is the main power winding operating and once the EOS is open the second much lighter coil just holds the flipper up until you let the button go. This stops the main power coil from over heating, if you have it wired backwards that could cause the sleeve to melt.
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There are other causes but I'd be checking the end of stroke switch first as well.

Show us the pics...

Not checked or not wired correctly they will melt right down and can cause a fire.

Something to be aware of.

 

Edit.

Is this mr&mrs pacman?

If so your issue could be the EOS switch set up on the bottom right flipper.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just putting this together now, got KT-BFLIP-03. Going together fine, however come across a black metal circle that looks like it could be a washer. Not sure where it goes? Any clues?

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

Just putting this together now, got KT-BFLIP-03. Going together fine, however come across a black metal circle that looks like it could be a washer. Not sure where it goes? Any clues?

 

Ignore me, figured it out - the coil!

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