NBA Jam not working in cabinet

They're all JAMMA so it should work. Try increasing the voltage a little. NBA and MK require slightly higher than 5V to run.

Check the JAMMA connector is lined up exactly, pins to the finger pads, there is often a lot of east-west slack on NBA JAM boards, your 5V and ground may line up as that's a double width pad.

Sounds like maybe a sensitive 5v issue as mentioned. Do you have a multimeter, you could test both machines voltage and compare. Also just a random guess, but does NBA need -5volt and if it does, do both cabinet psu's have it?

I ask because i saw this

https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/List_of_JAMMA_PCB's_that_require_-5_volts

 

Does mortal kombat pcb work in the 4 player cab?

If your nba jam work in the mortal komnat cabinet..

 

It means that you may not have a -5 volts in the tmnt cab

 

If im not mistaken

 

 

Not sure if -5 is only for the sound...

Regarding -5V, the board should still run without it, just without audio.

Thanks everyone. Turned up the voltage a touch and it worked :D

 

I haven't even connected the sound board yet, and not sure if cabinet power supply has -5v or not, I'll keep in mind... My time in shed is very limited at the moment with a baby in the house :)

 

Thanks again

Great news mate!!!

Thanks everyone. Turned up the voltage a touch and it worked :D

 

I haven't even connected the sound board yet, and not sure if cabinet power supply has -5v or not, I'll keep in mind... My time in shed is very limited at the moment with a baby in the house :)

 

Thanks again

 

Good to hear. It also uses a little more with the sound board connected so see how you go and crank it up as needed.

Alright friends? Moving at a snails pace with the limited time I have to work on this cabinet, but slowly getting there.

 

My newest obstacle, is the turbo input being constantly on. I thought most likely a short, but my meter shows open all the way from the switch back to the board. So I would say a board fault, but does anyone have any ideas?

 

All controls are pulled high constantly and activate when grounded. If a button is always active, then it's always grounded.

Eliminate your cabinet wiring 100% to be sure it's a board issue. If it is the board then possibly a resistor on that line.

All controls are pulled high constantly and activate when grounded. If a button is always active, then it's always grounded.

Eliminate your cabinet wiring 100% to be sure it's a board issue. If it is the board then possibly a resistor on that line.

 

Hey mate thanks for your reply. The more I think about it, the more I think it is a board problem. I mean, if I test on the switch with wires still attached, at Common (ground) and my normally open contact (input) I'm still getting an open circuit, even though the button is showing as 'active' on the test screen...

I'm not the brightest spark sometimes. I swapped board over into a different cab, and sure enough, turbo isn't sticking.

 

But it does seem strange to me. So it's some part of my wiring/harness, but why isn't my meter picking up the short between the input and ground :unsure

Disconnect the board then measure between that input connector on the edge and ground (with the board powered off). If its a dead short there then it is a board fault, usually a pretty simple one in the rare cases you see this.

Disconnect the board then measure between that input connector on the edge and ground (with the board powered off). If its a dead short there then it is a board fault, usually a pretty simple one in the rare cases you see this.

 

Confident it isn't the board now, swapped it into my MK cab and seems to work fine.

 

Thinking aloud (or at least in text form), with board unplugged, I tested for a short between input and ground at the switch, but not at the other end. Now I'm thinking I have no continuity between input at switch and other end.... hence why my meter wouldn't pick up the short. I wish I wasn't at work so I could check :cry

Last nights ten minute shift findings:

I indeed don't have continuity between input at switch end and harness plug end. I found the end of the input, and it had a ring terminal and wasn't connected to anything, just bunched in with the rest of the wires. So I haven't found my short yet, but this is certainly strange.

 

That's a ground wire. You're not being very clear with your discoveries.

From the JAMMA connector, just trace whatever wire is used for for the turbo button back and see where it goes. Wherever it goes, connect it to the switch.

That's a ground wire. You're not being very clear with your discoveries.

From the JAMMA connector, just trace whatever wire is used for for the turbo button back and see where it goes. Wherever it goes, connect it to the switch.

 

Fair call.

I should mention, when I picked up cabinet, it had Wrestlefest in it. I believe it is an LAI blue TMNT 4 player cabinet. So each player only had two buttons. The green wire I showed above, wasn't terminated, and there was one for each player. I presumed, without testing, that this was for an additional button for each player, and wired accordingly. Being green, not black, I didn't consider that it would be a ground wire.

 

I'm slowly getting my head around what I'm doing, I do appreciate your help.

I'm not the brightest spark sometimes. I swapped board over into a different cab, and sure enough, turbo isn't sticking.

 

But it does seem strange to me. So it's some part of my wiring/harness, but why isn't my meter picking up the short between the input and ground :unsure

 

This fault has popped up again. Turbo pulls in a moment after I press Pass. And it is a definite board fault as happens when I put board into different cabinets. I'd like to try fix myself, but more likely will take to Jomac to sus out I think.

https://1drv.ms/v/s!Al3rNrbrqVzCh2NlstGIZyba1P6O