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Thread: Evapo-rust How good is it?

  1. #1

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    Evapo-rust How good is it?

    Here's the pile of stuff @Gemini2544 dropped off at my place:


    Pretty rough.

    I have some Evapo-Rust. Unfortunatelyit's fairly expensive: http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Pro...5-Litre/354058


    I have a dip tank for legs:


    In hindsight I should've made it a little longer as frozen levellers make legs not fit.

    First 2 legs, 48 hours and the levellers came right out:


    Inside still looks a bit shite:


    Second pair of legs went in next, and I didn't think enough about the fact the levellers were frozen and extended. Couldn't get complete coverage and had to use plastic bags and rubber bands to seal the top of the tube. The upside of that is that the leg shows what the evaporust does really well. 24 hours:




    Another 24 hours, realised I could put the long leg that wasn't quite covered upside down... the ones with levelers still attached were the second lot:


    Managed to get one of the levelers out but had to chop and drill the last one.

    The door was really sad. The chrome or chrome paint was flaking before I did anything to it:


    I don't have a picture of the after, but the chrome came off pretty well entirely. The shooter housing should give you an idea... first pic is 24 hours, second is 48:


    I think the legs could've passed muster, but because the coin entrance, door, etc needed to be painted, the legs needed a bit of paint too so they matched:


    - - - Updated - - -

    I also did Sky Jump's bits with Evapo-rust. I knocked the really loose stuff off with a wire brush:


    And then soaked... Not sure how long, probably 72 hours because it was cold but I check every 24 hours:

    2 decent front legs and 2 legs to hide at the back.

    The door came up good:



  2. #2

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    Like you had other things to do! Anyway brilliant job Andrew, very impressed with your magic!
    My pins: Wild life EM, Top Score Em, Space Mission EM, Target Alpha EM, Cleopatra SS, Pin*Bot SS, Indiana Jones WPC, Black~Rose WPC.
    My Arcades: Funland Rifle EM, Hankin Table 20", Mame 20" Horizontal Cab, 17 in 1 Horizontal 20" cab, Outrun2 sit down game rear projection, Foosball table.


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    wow, awesome transformation, you gotta be happy with the results

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    I havent used it before, But a bloke I know who also does restorations used it all the time, after coming over and seeing I used Vinegar he gave that a try, he said the results were the same but the price difference was huge, as the evaporust isnt very cheap. especially when he was filling up 30 liter rust baths, and he then changed over to vinegar him self.
    I think he said the evaporust was slightly quicker though.

    Im planning at some time to get some evaporust off him and test it my self along with vinegar and compare, when I do Ill start a thread on it.

    I know that many of those non toxic Rust killers are just vinegar or sugar based, I dont know what Vapo-rust is though, So im interested to find out I dont think its an acid though?

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    I don't think too many restorers would get a corroded situation like what I got on this machine. The results are outstanding & Andrew did an outstanding job fixing what I thought was too far gone. Another pin is saved from the tip & will be appreciated for a long time. Thank you, Andrew..
    My pins: Wild life EM, Top Score Em, Space Mission EM, Target Alpha EM, Cleopatra SS, Pin*Bot SS, Indiana Jones WPC, Black~Rose WPC.
    My Arcades: Funland Rifle EM, Hankin Table 20", Mame 20" Horizontal Cab, 17 in 1 Horizontal 20" cab, Outrun2 sit down game rear projection, Foosball table.


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    Quote Originally Posted by jason1 View Post
    I havent used it before, But a bloke I know who also does restorations used it all the time, after coming over and seeing I used Vinegar he gave that a try, he said the results were the same but the price difference was huge, as the evaporust isnt very cheap. especially when he was filling up 30 liter rust baths, and he then changed over to vinegar him self.
    I think he said the evaporust was slightly quicker though.

    Im planning at some time to get some evaporust off him and test it my self along with vinegar and compare, when I do Ill start a thread on it.

    I know that many of those non toxic Rust killers are just vinegar or sugar based, I dont know what Vapo-rust is though, So im interested to find out I dont think its an acid though?
    I popped my pH meter in it. It is slightly acidic at 6.1. I have no idea what the chelating agent is - the msds says proprietary.

    White vinegar is very acidic at 2.5 or so and I've heard reports of it eating more than you want it to.

    Phosporic acid based products like Ranex Rustbuster are another option. I have not used it but it is marked corrosive. It turns the rust to iron phosphate which prevents further rust. Around the same price as evapo-rust but I think you'd get more bang for buck as it's more concentrated.

    For legs is probably much of a muchness, but for thinner pieces like the ball guides etc the slow and steady of evapo-rust is an advantage. Also doesn't seem to blacken as much on those.
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    They turned out pretty good from what you started with.
    I have seen vinegar in action and does a pretty good job also.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ajfclark View Post
    I popped my pH meter in it. It is slightly acidic at 6.1. I have no idea what the chelating agent is - the msds says proprietary.

    White vinegar is very acidic at 2.5 or so and I've heard reports of it eating more than you want it to.

    Phosporic acid based products like Ranex Rustbuster are another option. I have not used it but it is marked corrosive. It turns the rust to iron phosphate which prevents further rust. Around the same price as evapo-rust but I think you'd get more bang for buck as it's more concentrated.

    For legs is probably much of a muchness, but for thinner pieces like the ball guides etc the slow and steady of evapo-rust is an advantage. Also doesn't seem to blacken as much on those.
    Interesting info.

    I've had good results with carboxylic acid-based rust removers such as oxalic and citric acid. I imagine vinegar (acetic acid) is much the same but a little slower/gentler.

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by ajfclark View Post
    I popped my pH meter in it. It is slightly acidic at 6.1. I have no idea what the chelating agent is - the msds says proprietary.

    White vinegar is very acidic at 2.5 or so and I've heard reports of it eating more than you want it to.

    Phosporic acid based products like Ranex Rustbuster are another option. I have not used it but it is marked corrosive. It turns the rust to iron phosphate which prevents further rust. Around the same price as evapo-rust but I think you'd get more bang for buck as it's more concentrated.

    For legs is probably much of a muchness, but for thinner pieces like the ball guides etc the slow and steady of evapo-rust is an advantage. Also doesn't seem to blacken as much on those.
    thanks for the info on the PH, I guess we wont know whats in it then

    As for the vinegar, Its prety safe, I dont have it eat away good steel and I leave It for many days some times if I forget lol and havent had that problem, I started using vinegar for thin metal as I used to use heavy duty acid baths, but later changed completely to Vinegar for really heavy rust that I used to use the toxic Acids on, as it was safer and cleaner to use Vinegar, and on thin metal it didnt detroy items. However It will eat more than it should if you leave it half submerged it will eat away metal at the water level, but thats with every acid base item so Never have metal items half submerged with any Acid base products always have them completely covered in the solution.
    I guess if that doesnt happen with evaporust thats a good thing.

    As with products like Ranex, I do use that but thats for those really light surface rust on an item where I can wipe it on and wipe it off.

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by jason1 View Post
    As with products like Ranex, I do use that but thats for those really light surface rust on an item where I can wipe it on and wipe it off.
    Thanks for the info. I'm always hesitant to use something new on pieces I can't replace and it seems everything in pinball is something difficult or impossible or expensive to replace, so good to hear more positives about vinegar.

    I've often thought about using Ranex as a final step after other rust removal to protect the piece. That should work, right?
    Live on Twitch, Tuesdays 6pm + other random times | twitch.tv/ajfclark | You can vote for what machine I play, click here, follow my channel and type '!vote' in chat for details | Movember: mobro.co/ajfclark

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