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70s Cabinet Upgrade ( jungle queen )


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Got this pin , got it working now I think it needs some Mag Wheels.

 

I plan spending very little actual time on this... the brief goes.

 

1.Jazz up the look of an older machine.

 

Add more visual space to the upper playfield area by lifting the glass at the rear.

also stop the resting of beer on the glass due to the increased incline.

 

IMG_20180116_161251318_TOP.thumb.jpg.176ca012236a133da429f1dacb2eee15.jpg

 

IMG_20180116_161315184_TOP.thumb.jpg.0f6bee50b90c5e37a16ff9ee3cdd18fc.jpg

 

2. dropping the entire playfield by 1 inch

 

3.Use existing hardware to do it.

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Definitely needs lane change like all Gottlieb upper ABC lane multiplier games need.

 

Get those drop targets resetting after being dropped like you did that last Gottlieb EM. Brilliant idea that one.

 

Good strong flippers. Gottlieb system 3 should fit powered by DC not AC.

 

One relay per bumper.

 

These relays are ideal...

 

http://res.cloudinary.com/controlconsultants/image/upload/t_cs250_c/v1475314563/image/Veris/VMD2B-C_Series.jpg

 

It truly amazes me why EM guys persist with 50's-70's relay designs that are ridiculously expensive and cook so often when these parts are cheap and being on a socket, super easy to swap out and they also handle being locked on for days on end without smoking.

 

They are also available in multiple pole and high current. Switch boards are full of them.

 

Probably wise to swap the tilt relay and start relay for this type as well.

 

Are there a couple of usable suggestions here to "improve" an old classic?

 

Hope you don't mind.:huh:

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I use relays in all my pins for solenoid drive except flippers.

Instead of dc I use 40VAC rectified to 54VAC this allows the contacts to release without

fuss and you can still use a flyback diode.

As you say they have multiple contacts and these days duty cycle use in the millions.

They also far easier to drive both sides (+ and - ) for circuits like ball search , can be driven by a one cent transistor

and for a homebrew you can see and hear them working.

I love my relays:)

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It truly amazes me why EM guys persist with 50's-70's relay designs that are ridiculously expensive and cook so often when these parts are cheap and being on a socket, super easy to swap out and they also handle being locked on for days on end without smoking.

 

Getting dangerously close to heresy here ;)

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Getting dangerously close to heresy here ;)

 

Ow yes, I am well aware of that Michi but it has so many upsides.

 

The relay becomes a socketed device able to be swapped in seconds.

 

All the contacts are sealed inside a plastic box so no bare contacts to touch and get electrified.

 

You can get these relays with an indicator LED inside them to tell when they are on.

 

The sockets are screw terminals so absolutely no soldering required.

 

They have massive duty cycles so virtually no more burned relay coils.

 

The relay coils are available in just about every voltage including 6, 12, 24, 48, 110, 240volt AC .

 

Contact materials vary for gold contacts to tungsten so currents from digital level to 20 amps are possible.

 

You can buy them on Ebay or any electrical wholesaler.

 

They have fast, precise operation making for a quicker machine.

 

 

The downside, the machine is no long completely original.

 

My answer to that is replace only the relays that always give trouble and keep the original relays in the bottom of the machine for resale.

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Ow yes, I am well aware of that Michi but it has so many upsides.

 

Totally with you here in terms of pragmatism. If the machine is to be played, the prime concern is that it is reliable. If I'm a collector, I guess having everything as close to original as possible is the overriding goal.

 

Personally, I prefer to play machines rather than look at them ;)

 

Michi.

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I use relays in all my pins for solenoid drive except flippers.

Instead of dc I use 40VAC rectified to 54VAC this allows the contacts to release without

fuss and you can still use a flyback diode.

As you say they have multiple contacts and these days duty cycle use in the millions.

They also far easier to drive both sides (+ and - ) for circuits like ball search , can be driven by a one cent transistor

and for a homebrew you can see and hear them working.

I love my relays:)

 

All very valid points you list there.

 

I prefer not to use relays for switching logic circuits, my choice there is opto couplers. All the benefits of a relay but no contact bounce to get rid off.

 

Just curious, have you tried micro switches in the flipper circuits?.

 

I did a Stellar Wars with micro switches as the cabinet switches. I used the big thick blade off a normal cabinet switch to push the button back in place when not used but had a Omron 10amp micro switch in place of the contacts.

 

That worked sweet probably because of the micro's positive on off operation but now I'm thinking of taking this further and using one of these Omron micros as the EOS switch as well.

 

I see these micros like a power assisted set of contacts with the internal spring working to force the contacts on or off fast so therefore causing less arc jumping that burns the contacts.

 

Prior to that Stellar Wars I always thought of the loss of feel the flippers would have but then Fliptronics came along and no one complained about any loss of feel so gave it a go and never noticed the difference but the flippers were always positive and I never changed those micros prior to selling the machine.

 

They certainty lasted a lot longer than normal contacts.

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I thought this might look ok....but effen L :birthday1:

 

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]122867[/ATTACH]

 

I actually like the early model aprons myself although I prefer the balls numbers part in the backbox. A nice little light bar to light up the play instructions and done. Much improved.:D

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So there it is and it's way better

than what I'd hoped for.

Still have to deal with the side cabinet art

but that was going to have to happen any way.

IMG_20180121_134953534.thumb.jpg.d93b13f836ef72ad00984b89b0a5eed3.jpg

The side art will pop now with the black front

IMG_20180121_135057765.thumb.jpg.a8ceaa247ecfbd88ddf442f9f9e7fa04.jpg

IMG_20180121_135023266.thumb.jpg.138f08a53b576165c25e316245081211.jpg

The top rail cover might get a Jungle / Pteradactyl sticker

IMG_20180121_135040281.thumb.jpg.aba362947461c06461143a0880a69722.jpg

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Much improved but I'm wondering how long before you go the whole hog with it @kress style.

 

Funny enough I'm actually a 1/2 owner of a Jungle Queen sitting in a pinball box where it has been for the last 7 years since my mate died along with a Duotron.

 

His wife won't part with them so they sit there.

 

I actually like Jungle Queen but I think Duotron is quite burnable. Horrible thieving machine it is.

 

Should of kept the Big Brave, Card Whiz and Jungle Life we owned and moved on the horrible Duotron thinking back now.

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Much improved but I'm wondering how long before you go the whole hog with it @kress style.

 

Funny enough I'm actually a 1/2 owner of a Jungle Queen sitting in a pinball box where it has been for the last 7 years since my mate died along with a Duotron.

 

His wife won't part with them so they sit there.

 

I actually like Jungle Queen but I think Duotron is quite burnable. Horrible thieving machine it is.

 

Should of kept the Big Brave, Card Whiz and Jungle Life we owned and moved on the horrible Duotron thinking back now.

 

The only mods from standard is the obvious red plastic return lane guide ( the wirerails had been previously fixed beyond repair ) and the opening by 5mm at the bottom of the lanes behind the targets.

The later is to allow shots from below and avoid the ' nothing to do once the targets are down ' problem this game has.

 

I am probably going to sell it off once finished so it shall remain electrically standard.

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The only mods from standard is the obvious red plastic return lane guide ( the wirerails had been previously fixed beyond repair ) and the opening by 5mm at the bottom of the lanes behind the targets.

The later is to allow shots from below and avoid the ' nothing to do once the targets are down ' problem this game has.

 

So obvious I didn't even spot them.:redface

 

Nice improvement.

 

Wire rails and any wireform including one way gates I just bend from similar materiel I buy from hobby shops but those return lanes are a vast improvement.

 

Did you not mod a Jungle Queen or Princess before replacing the upper flippers with slingshots or was that someone else?.

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So obvious I didn't even spot them.:redface

 

Nice improvement.

 

Wire rails and any wireform including one way gates I just bend from similar materiel I buy from hobby shops but those return lanes are a vast improvement.

 

Did you not mod a Jungle Queen or Princess before replacing the upper flippers with slingshots or was that someone else?.

 

The game had been used without an upper left flipper for sometime and mashed up the timber , it was gaffed up with a garden hose to remain playable.

 

Yep that's a mates pin He didn't like that the targets didn't come back up either.

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  • 2 months later...

Played this today. K needs someone with absolutely no ability to test his inventions and I am perfect for that role.

What sacrilege of an EM absolutely disgustingly brilliant as always.

If you didn't know you would think the ramp (removable by unscrewing 2 screws) was standard and gives the game another dimension entirely.

All EMs should have been made with the extra height for the backglass.

So much more fun and I made his day when I managed some ramp shots.

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