Pinball Pool Restoration

From the looks of it, Trev has done an excellent repair. These little problems like the one here can quickly compound into bigger eyesores if not addressed or repaired correctly.

Great work so far Trev. Thanks for the tip re delamination .. I have a delaminated PF to try and fix one of these days so will keep that idea in mind

NICE WORK with that repair on the playfield.. hard to tell it was ever raised!!

 

I had to deal with a similar issue on a Count Down playfield a while back that had lifted in a few spots.. only difference was it had no mylar (i'd already removed it as it was being clearcoated) which made repairing it a bit easier.

Almost done.

 

Just have to finish the top apron, final coat done today, and put the decal on the bottom apron.

 

 

Under the playfield took me awhile to do and lucky I had a second playfield to swap parts between.

There were also a few hacks to fix. Because each target has a coil attached, it looks like when one blew it wasn't replaced and the owner would just cut the wires and bypass them.

 

I will have to check on the best way to start it up since it's never been started is AUS before. I remember reading a startup checklist in Clay's system 1 guide so I will have to review that again.

Edited April 21, 2019 by thejudge

Looks great! The cabinet looks like it never had any damage. Have really enjoyed reading this resto!

 

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Was the installation of the pascal board easy? Do you know how much it cost with the delivery to aus? I have heard that you get some extras like a skill shot. Would love to see a video the pascals features on this machine!

 

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Awesome result with this one Trev.

Definitely reward for effort and doubt you will want to part with it down the track.

 

You are making me feel guilty about how long its been since I worked on any of my games.

 

Cheers

Dave

 

 

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Well I'm glad you stuck with this one. It looks sweet. As for the drop target drop coils, on 3 ball play, one target knocked down on one bank drops the opposite target on the opposite bank. One 5 ball play it is only every second target that drops the opposite target. This feature is controlled by the old style EM connector on the underside of the playfield, not the games software so even on 5ball play, you can just leave that plug in the 3 ball position or vise versa.

 

This was done by many an operator back in the day because those drop coils burnt out rather regularly.

Was the installation of the pascal board easy? Do you know how much it cost with the delivery to aus? I have heard that you get some extras like a skill shot. Would love to see a video the pascals features on this machine!

 

Sorry, just saw this. The pascal board just replaces the driver board in the back box and then just have to plug in the existing connectors to the board.

The board is about $500aud landed and does have a few extra features like the attract mode, skill shot & ball save to name a few.

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

I haven't got it working as yet and I did a quick power test today and tripped the power :(

 

As I don't know the condition of the transformers, does anyone have any tips on how to test them to make sure they are outputting the correct voltages?

Edited April 21, 2019 by thejudge

Sorry, just saw this. The pascal board just replaces the driver board in the back box and then just have to plug in the existing connectors to the board.

The board is about $500aud landed and does have a few extra features like the attract mode, skill shot & ball save to name a few.

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

I haven't got it working as yet and I did a quick power test today and tripped the power :(

 

As I don't know the condition of the transformers, any tips on how to test them to make sure they are outputting the correct voltages?

Check vids guide to system 1s online maybe.

 

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An update on this project, it has been sitting for awhile because I had a short that was blowing the 25v fuse. Several times I found things that I thought was causing the issue, but no it kept blowing.

 

I finally called in Rod and he had a go for 3 hours and couldn't find the problem, I offered him money but he didn't take it.

 

I finally called in Mick and he looked for 2 hours and isolated the issue down to the playfield and then it just started to work. He hadn't removed or replaced anything so we think there must have been something touching something else causing a short which he fixed when he went around checking things. Bit of a pain no knowing if it is fixed and it might come back, but at least for now its working.

He did find that the small score display was faulty and he is going to send me a replacement.

 

Now that I have power I am finding things that need adjusting. The kick out holes are pretty weak, one just manages to kick out the ball, the other doesn't. I replaced the second ones coil but still doesn't kick hard enough. Not sure how to adjust these ?

 

The pop bumpers are also a bit weak, still trying to get those working properly.

The targets worked fine when I cleaned them but once they were installed the springs don't seem to be strong enough to pull the targets all the way down. A pain because these targets are a bugger to work on because of the extra coils underneath.

 

Today I also connected the sound wiring to the Pascal board and found that the speaker doesn't work !! I have a spare speaker that is the same size but the original one was an 8ohm and the spare I have is an 3ohm, it did prove that the old speaker was faulty but can I use this as a replacement due to the ohm difference, not sure?

 

This is how it looks now with my test backglass, I have a better one that I'll put in later.

 

Edited July 4, 2019 by thejudge

The kick out holes are pretty weak, one just manages to kick out the ball, the other doesn't. I replaced the second ones coil but still doesn't kick hard enough. Not sure how to adjust these ?

The pop bumpers are also a bit weak, still trying to get those working properly.

The targets worked fine when I cleaned them but once they were installed the springs don't seem to be strong enough to pull the targets all the way down. A pain because these targets are a bugger to work on because of the extra coils underneath.

https://www.aussiearcade.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150062

 

I did up a "countdown" and the flippers and pop were very weak

I just put a big uF capacitor on the output of the bridge (there was nothing there)

It made a huge difference

That was about 6 years ago and it is still going strong

Edited July 4, 2019 by JimA

I did up a "countdown" and the flippers and pop were very weak

I just put a big uF capacitor on the output of the bridge (there was nothing there)

It made a huge difference

That was about 6 years ago and it is still going strong

 

I haven't learnt that trick yet, is there anywhere that has info on how to do that?

See if the cap helps with the outhole strength, it may work fine. If not look at the springs on the outhole kicker mechs. They should be rather stiff. If they get to weak, they take the hit out of the kicker. The whole idea of the spring that I could ever work out was to stop the ball from launching into the air from the hole, lifting the ball gently and then smacking the ball away as the spring retracted.

See if the cap helps with the outhole strength, it may work fine. If not look at the springs on the outhole kicker mechs. They should be rather stiff. If they get to weak, they take the hit out of the kicker. The whole idea of the spring that I could ever work out was to stop the ball from launching into the air from the hole, lifting the ball gently and then smacking the ball away as the spring retracted.

 

Thanks for the tip Steve, that worked great. I took out about 6 links from the springs on both mechs and they kick out fine now :)

 

The targets aren't too bad so now just have to get the pop bumpers working properly in strength and they are also now locking on as well :(

so sounds no different to trying to figure out an em.

so sounds no different to trying to figure out an em.

 

Yeah just the same, just have to work through it

@thejudge regarding using a smaller resistance speaker I suggest not.

I assume the amp is set up for an 8 ohm load and a lesser resistance will result in passing more current and possibly damaging the output driver, more so at higher volumes.

Also sound quality may not be as good.

You could add a 5W resistor in series with either the + or - to make up the 8 ohms.

But honestly IMO I would source another 8 ohm equivalent speaker or better.

@thejudge regarding using a smaller resistance speaker I suggest not.

I assume the amp is set up for an 8 ohm load and a lesser resistance will result in passing more current and possibly damaging the output driver, more so at higher volumes.

Also sound quality may not be as good.

You could add a 5W resistor in series with either the + or - to make up the 8 ohms.

But honestly IMO I would source another 8 ohm equivalent speaker or better.

 

Thanks for that, very informative

I have decided to look for another speaker, I need a 6.5" 8ohm round speaker. I had a bit of a look last night online but haven't had much luck at the moment, but will keep looking.

Yepp i agree with Rich, not a good idea to try a 3 ohm speaker.

With the lower impedance seen by the power amp IC on your sound board, it would try to put out twice the power it is capable of and would likely fail.

Just had a bit of luck.

I was just looking through my "this might come in handy one day" boxes and I found another speaker the right size and 8ohm.

It is a bit of overkill being a 50w speaker, but that should do.

I also intend on putting a switch in to swap between sound board and chimes as well as I have a spare set of chimes :)

 

I also just tested the sound board that came with the pin and that works as well. I was going to use the pascal sound option but it will be easier to use the original sound board. Don't think there would be much difference as it only needs to play 3 tones.

I wouldn’t waste the chimes. Remember how hard it was to get them. I would keep them for the future.[emoji3]

 

 

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Woyld be good to have a switch though

 

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Hard to get hold of suitable speakers of low wattage. Problem with high wattage speakers is they are low volume when driven by low wattage amps. Ideally you want something like a 5watt -10watt speaker then you will get the full intended volume.

 

Have a look at your old faulty speaker. Measure from terminal to terminal and see if you have continuity. If you don't, it is a broken wire....(very common).

Try probing along the wires testing for continuity and see if you can find the break. It is often in one of the wires from the terminal to the back of the speaker cone. If this is the case, cut the wire a couple of mm from the cone, ( enough to solder to without damaging the cone), and replace the wire.

Fortunately only being driven by low wattage amps, the cone and speaker itself are rarely damaged and it is just a wire failure.

Hard to get hold of suitable speakers of low wattage. Problem with high wattage speakers is they are low volume when driven by low wattage amps. Ideally you want something like a 5watt -10watt speaker then you will get the full intended volume.

 

Did you sell your monitor?

 

 

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