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  • Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
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    Thread: It Fell Off The back Of A Truck, Honest.

    1. #21
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      Good drugs back then... Everyone was flying.

      Sent from my MYA-L02 using Aussie Arcade mobile app

    2. #22
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      Stripped down, cleaned out the old Gottlieb glue,,,(it looked and felt like wax and I'm thinking was hotglue)..No wonder the head exploded.

      And pulled out the few staples that were actually used to hold it together originally.



      Liquid Nails and heaps of staples this time had the outer frame back together and after making sure it was square, I put a piece of scrap wood across the diagonal to hold it square over night.

      Next morning all nice and square, removed the scrap wood, liquid nails completely around the recess the back panel goes in and drop the panel in.

      Put a sash clamp across and two staples each side of the clamp and slide the clamp up the same side a bit more and again, two staples each side.




      Once the two sides were done onto the top and bottom edges doing the same process...Clamp and two staples.



      After liquid nails dried, bolted the head back on and sprayed the inside of the head in matt black...It matches perfectly with the original black paint, cleaned off the overspray from the metal board mount backing and touched up the front edge of the head while I had the chance before fitting everything unlike the back of the head I will do last.

      A fair bit of damaged wiring repaired, boards back in and hope for the best aye...



      Sweet, it boots up and plays sort of. Nothing I can't fix after a bit of time.

      The back still needs a paint but this head will come up looking as it did before exploding but using proper glue, liquid nails and about 10 times the amount of staples, ( mainly to hold it perfectly till the liquid nails comes up to full strength over the next week), this head will not fall apart next time it gets dropped off a truck.

      Back not painted yet but it is perfectly square and solid. Once painted you will never know this head was in 5 pieces with only the wiring holding it together.



      Spent a bit of time on it playing looking for faults. I've got no playfield GI, a melted upkicker coil and a upper right flipper coil cooked. Cabinet wiring needs tiding up. It has no cabinet speaker but upper sound is fine.

      I also had a couple of switches not registering but I found that wire off so that fine now.

      Anyway on with the testing to find and fix more. I'm sure some of the switched bulbs not working won't simply be blown.

      Not show quality like some of you guys turn out for your own pieces but this is a working street piece that lives a very hard life with an emphases of strength and reliability, not looks.

      Plus, I've gotta get this out in a couple of days.

    3. #23
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      Nice job Steve. That'll keep it going for a few more $$$.

      After reading the thread I find it interesting that some op's "hate" sys. 3's from an op point of view but I've gotta ask why?

      E.g, I know an op north of here that only sites Sys.3's as he say's they are almost bullet proof as far as reliability goes.

      BUT,

      Do some op's like the B/W or stern stuff because you blingy them with mods to get peoples attention?

      Granted, some Sys.3's aren't in the "Ooh, I have to have one" from the collectors [sic] but horses for courses I reckon.

    4. #24
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      Quote Originally Posted by Railways View Post
      Nice job Steve. That'll keep it going for a few more $$$.

      After reading the thread I find it interesting that some op's "hate" sys. 3's from an op point of view but I've gotta ask why?

      E.g, I know an op north of here that only sites Sys.3's as he say's they are almost bullet proof as far as reliability goes.

      BUT,

      Do some op's like the B/W or stern stuff because you blingy them with mods to get peoples attention?

      Granted, some Sys.3's aren't in the "Ooh, I have to have one" from the collectors [sic] but horses for courses I reckon.
      Yep I've heard near bullet proof before from some operators describing System 3s but they are also cheap. They were much cheaper to buy NIB and they are cheap to buy 2nd hand now.

      Mechanical parts don't break regularly but they do cook coils but coils are pretty much fused individually.

      They are usually a bit of a "soleless" game to play I feel but that's a personal point of view.

      As for working in them I hate the every wire is white with just a thin band of colour especially when working on one in low light and I'm really not a fan of mosfet solenoid switching.

      Mosfets blow or lock on with static sometimes seemingly for no reason causing solenoid fuses to blow, ( this machine had 3 solenoid fuses blown indicated the solenoid had got hot or locked on at some stage but replacing the fuse and no fault found)

      While it may sound good just swap the fuse and going again, as a tech you really want to find something that caused the problem and try to fix so it doesn't happen again.

      I do question the fuse ratings at times like this machine uses...

      A 1.5amp S/B on each slingshot but uses

      A 1/2amp S/B to power....

      The ball release
      The outhole
      The soccer kicker
      The close goal
      The 1 bank reset

      A 1/2amp S/B to power

      Bottom L upkicker
      Bottom R upkicker

      But a 2amp S/B to power

      Top L upkicker
      Top R upkicker

      See what I mean, no real logic especially on a multiball machine that may have multiple solenoids fire at once and seemingly relying on the S/B feature of the fuse to absorb the partial overload especially when sometime like two balls land in the same upkicker, (that happens a lot with this machine)

      The irony is the fuses this machine had blown were both slingshots, ( 1.5amp S/B each)

      and the Open Goal ( 1/2 amp S/B)

      Again, no real logic why these would blow and not something like the bottom upkickers fuse. Maybe next time.

      Thumbs up for a system 3...

      The flippers...a big long stroke with even power right through the whole range and with the right coils, powerful.

      The backstop rubber breaks and falls out super quick but this is a gain. The stroke extends without this rubber and makes for ridiculously easy trapping of the ball. ( a big gain for the player)

    5. #25
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      Awesome work Steve.

      It's pretty bad that it took the machine falling off the back of a truck for the op to bring it in for repair. The other problems would have made it unplayable anyway. I seriously wonder why the op is anxious for it to go back on site when it was probably making no money anyway...

    6. #26
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      Quote Originally Posted by ocyen View Post
      Awesome work Steve.

      It's pretty bad that it took the machine falling off the back of a truck for the op to bring it in for repair. The other problems would have made it unplayable anyway. I seriously wonder why the op is anxious for it to go back on site when it was probably making no money anyway...
      Hire machines on long term contracts and this one is actually a new one to join the fleet and I think it was being picked up when the accident happened and hadn't been operated yet.

      More like in someone's house and driven into the ground with little or no maintenance I think is the case but that will change.

    7. #27
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      Great work, couple of faults to fix before it gets a good work out

    8. #28
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      Hey Steve, any chance you can take some detailed pics of the wooden display/speaker mounting board thingy (canít think of the bloody name). I picked up a Big Hurt a little while back and itís missing completely so need to construct from scratch. Dimensions or anything helpful would be awesome! Good luck.
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    9. #29
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      Quote Originally Posted by flynnyfalcon View Post
      Hey Steve, any chance you can take some detailed pics of the wooden display/speaker mounting board thingy (canít think of the bloody name). I picked up a Big Hurt a little while back and itís missing completely so need to construct from scratch. Dimensions or anything helpful would be awesome! Good luck.
      Here you go. I think I got all the important dimensions.

      The red lines are what is measured.

      The Orange lines connect the red line measured and the size of that red line.

      The green lines are the center point of the speakers to the edge of the panel. ( I figured you would make the holes to suit your speaker sizes)

      The dimensions of the panel itself are 6308 X 203 X 10.



      Any other dimensions I may have missed, ask.

      Fing "Paint" is giving me dramas with Text and number size. Sorry, this is about the best it is letting me do for you.

      Some pictures of the display panel...











      And now this is what the machine is up to...

      Waiting on a flipper coil and the goal kicker coil,

      GI lighting not working was a wire broken off one of the lower cabinet relay's contacts.

      Just to mix things up I was testing the machine looking for problems and then no switches, coils nothing. Turn machine off and back on and error message comes up "install 4 balls".

      Interesting, it has 4 balls in the trough already.

      Problem was one of the 3 bridge rectifiers next to the transformer had been replaced previously, ( it had 2mm terminal leads not 6.3mm tabs as standard), and one of the 4 leads soldered to one of these leads obviously wasn't soldered correctly and broke off the lead so no power leaving the bridge.

      Lucky it decided to fail now and not when the machine was returned aye.

      Other than that all is good.

      Painted the back of the head...



      Made a difference aye...


    10. #30
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      That is so massively helpful to me Steve... many many many thanks!! Best of luck finishing her off.
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