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I thought I better put a placeholder in for my restore and for feedback, suggestions and help: https://www.aussiearcade.com/showthread.php/91459-My-first-and-new-pinball-in-da-house

This is an interesting machine:

One of only three 4-player Williams games to have the 2nd player located in the lower left corner of the backglass and the 3rd player in the upper right.

Design by: Norm Clark

Art by: Jerry Kelley

Notes: 'A-Go-Go' was the first machine to use a captive ball spinner, invented by Norm Clark.

During the production run, the coin door was changed from the large single-slot to a smaller multiple slot and the drop-down cabinet was eliminated. We do not know how many games were produced in each cabinet style. Reportedly, the January 1967 issue of the German trade magazine Münzautomat stated that the standard cabinet games were Later Production games and were manufactured due to a high demand in Germany.

I have the earlier version with the single coin slot and the drop down cabinet.

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To put it bluntly, the paintwork is completely rat shit. But the timber itself is in fantastic condition so a repaint is on the way. I'll trace the existing and mask/paint which I'm not too bad at. See my minipin as an example: https://www.aussiearcade.com/showthread.php/42304-Minipin?highlight=minipin

My big question is how do I match the colours when they're so faded?

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Of course there is no key for the 2 locks on it so I cannot currently open it up.

I'm assuming I'll have to drill these out then replace?

Can you get original replacements for them?

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Backglass is also very faded and in the centre a fair bit has come away. I'll have to replace this at some stage.

Can I treat with anything to stop it degrading anymore in the meantime?

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Playfield, is to my untrained eye surprisingly good although one of the roll-overs? looks like it's lifted. Again not surprising for a 52 year old game thats been sitting idle for many years. I can take a closer look once I can get the glass off. The glass is filthy.

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Unfortunately some clown cut the harness to the back-box, easily repaired but I'm not going near any of the electrics until way further down the restore path.

I've already sourced schematics for it so that's a start.

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Coin door is rusty in places. Do I replace or restore. I'd prefer to restore if feasible. Legs are in shocking condition, so I think they'll need to be replaced =(

There's also a ball in the bottom shute

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Cheers,

Brad

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Triple thick the backglass.

 

Coin door is rusty in places. Do I replace or restore. I'd prefer to restore if feasible. Legs are in shocking condition, so I think they'll need to be replaced =(

There's also a ball in the bottom shute

The coin door on these are extra large, much larger than your normal coin door, as they were made for the large coin mechs which could sort 3 different coins.... I think you may have to try to restore it as finding a replacement would be like finding hens teeth.

 

Good luck with it, you have a big job ahead of you with all that cosmetic work.

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Looks like you got it from the tip :lol Sorry couldn't help myself.Good luck with the resto.:)

 

 

I'm honestly under no illusions about the state of it ;)

 

Thanks for the tips guys, will be a lot of questions following on LOL

 

Brad

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wiredoug said:
Drop down cabs need special legs. Did you get them? The front just 25 inch or so

Yeah they came with them but holy hell they're in bad shape

The outside are almost all surface rust

28" rear and 25" front

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Yeah they came with them but holy hell they're in bad shape

 

They look better than the ones I have on Sky Jump. The worst started like this:

3B1oYKDyrpKtZg8XaFRCVjRabyvf6reGK4XPipC7LJuJZuGDiG25rumoMWggwId4mh-nWmUkuB2Gop9b6lUVlAkgpZxuAKr76p2Qvgemwx6WIofuxZPmaiEEwmmmamGZqXalQfERLFY8b1f28oaU5zinS21q21hUvmNb6EXGCNXBDvmBNALWzci8ecfcRhlu1p6tws1fr_uSqDuJlSpVFFDQCqNfaM8KwsQITDeyArnwuh4tQAhnlNp0eNxtX3fAaM3VA4jinKMgma2GpAwko1ZDrQui8m6FgYe_sRFeQdO4YvNFTAkoFOHVpQmiCYEad6UknsgGouoTXek7AN9qBzXiBqWyxy-7WKjAPRUfyS1_k7O9Wpf40ruL85yUq3XIrNyv0h2H9xYC5lPo0RLLH7Gfyvep5y6FiTiMOVWOZdqf2Azhg-216yuNRd9diiI8w-Z5nadU4trHdZ6XkDxF6C5oi-5n4YTq75r-a0tECKx1_kYO-4bbU9ey9iw6GdjgrZqJoUt6Paw7qOdu0W8j-FiYEIUEo6f0eldyjTKjF3DFWVMoGIIpqu-l6zzmg33ZqX40s7IylfOUOQvFiOO_-NkcEdcHp3lracqbS6cydWwC7I14HtWlNwioajTUgPcbRCeTDwg7jemeLQwSELe9xgHak29pIK5jL51b=w1757-h988-no

 

I tried all different things but the best result for least effort was evaporust:

bXG16eWPYPPeiL3g1BhmtT7Y40dIcwSAg2INDxPzEBxSb3txSmApZAV3x-DZkmg-oXmk95S8PLagmMCc8FM_oBYCNnqfKBifQbVsYp_sApF01RZjuqV3BA00ES7U3PUpwO4wngPkfM7CZxpM4cI6ozk9f4xBWJXv9-AtzT1bAbvkWdgDMUhf8DlkMbtC1XnlT4STgfVKs5jzsMhl55udqaRMaGsUP2sVXYAESjVkXQli_pqaWgIfWY-PG4OSbzSL0OatKI-WiVfVhKClaGLRQ6CKYwNFWGZr0MBpoB6ZQxXGesGwRriEg5trF5VbrtAH8s-hY2h5jmsO_qzqHx_GLx3I5kjZ4I7hCZI21HzZ_QqrL7rmP1th5fstZBI9J5q97wY7SHPrmu5jbX7F_uKj99dGciqFhqQ03sGDT5W1PSBlXOMVhKx9yWmthBV4hqYSdcCf6G_5JWRwOpx9Po3MSKchp_Vx3LLZXH-iGKJ-wGPXh61qWD86EKYOYgVTY6FdpxS7Cc-SVRRaKnRCcuE-nAC_BDlvTWWRtRGwjrpBsd0lqWWJzWCcbLE0fghLyocCOxiOLkReYgWrarnA2h527f8aYOur8EBCnzGCgYAzaDwgQ0aU-Iu9vbQF5hyW0MJtTSvfMAMDOj_9mS26Z_emW2YusceBMp7DvGK3=w1757-h988-no

 

Make a tube out of 90mm pvc that's slightly longer than the longest legs you'll ever do. Glue a fixed end cap on one end and a screw end cap on the other.

 

Remove the levellers and pop in 2 legs and something less than 5L of evaporust. Leave overnight. Check. Depending on temperature and the amount of rust, might take a couple of days. Possibly need to retap the threads.

 

I'd give the coin door a go in evaporust too.

8zW0ChAFP20OAbuyiTye9QKLYz4aLIan7wdzcqrhhMu7JEdqwK8nuzUBTN2J-hnERCDfneaand_HoF1eYO8PDtQQN3iM-52jTgzhOf985xrDFkqWIGo_3xJYFOPBRDdJnaCdFQJ8m9zFLmWX5eRRCQxh38rlLIZMvQJfth37GylPfwgMUEtotX6e0Jc8LlzceJAxU9iD3N8TQy-FU4DEFWuZS5L3JSkfzmAwLp_ZrOUoZ1BZ3O25u2XVGPuBkxas4ySA9R7bJFuDFRWYjYH38D840kdVbydVK_9gf8TIV2w1rhoAuPbl-sq9kXPkPXf0hiGwP1xYgTsQUVGHz3U5-peehiwNCOu0AYNjdYBj2O4bQcAnrGreQo0rVZjJNNU54CjXlVGkBsSWj6rE7nU7XZ2FTJq3PtFb7fkr3LqHjhlFW-DKnyRBBD3n_NZ6WXNM5ILbcXBkVRujvV7cWKSwWlDZZcvJ1JZ4FNbxM9x85L37F1KyWZuO9k6jsquBVnyW3GubUC4b6DrccDFKTNG0gJfDO1gK6nfJgyrRMpHGXnjEUb6uatIOhOK6iqxZK1-XVwH3ipHRnFJMh15KYhX2bu5yaXcNJT2_cIJdQWcQWVmbJPaK0DvnUYhqnohGjKMEX93Fx5nQlcuKju2Bsl1FPqUSQpc98i5ks50A=w1757-h988-no

24 hours later:

ZD9AD5ghDZHEz_sQf0P64Usem4YvFqBdiCHMRpY8ZGGOwbEHUwwg00-xQ_fNnS1nqgj7xaLHyFDB3Icd5lo0vv-tjHWSYEdqqftiDRECTj6tDtJaoxAUI4_ygfgrcQALy0SgUfOAMb7Z-H9RbwEYjzFO3NbB3gu_P3MT9sPkGQ8uE0p_RuHONXAVrvWE_1c36vf7oqQhUdmH_Tnv9S4dwx7LRUAxILrFI2a44DrAIRU-FW4rk2hNV0kGnBic8wh1LLOK5znYNdPrJGztbYKmwEYs4ss7tO5B4bxTr0Rwc4Q9MBCimAovDc4Oi1YAXHJVyVQz3QQdC4v5tSdNrQRYnjWW1OdlPD0KpoS7M8Bi9xTg3FvD9dTk07lcN1QImx-rbryzoJ0kotZ4aSS1RAlH609YzQC2fFfLwK2hLY8rv5-EJRrUQ3mA4Gh6bTkURZPzMFWZSRVxk87He9Py0j8v9jlLwV3m8FMAtjelCGx_wERMItVts0RQj_0elSWtOGAoJEd0IrkXoua3BiK4mdoj-HstH16ZRw5TNuZ5ttdg9SKEob6IcsI3c7oz1fZaPnzObZc5n5KGOJEiBD21vNbbH8JlAifSYBvOmKcJtLYTHxiyiqYa7c3ZYAvYp5xZpjqJfN0aehVnQtjRDQLFKTjjc7SJ8a_IN6HZqaRo=w741-h988-no

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

With the locks, if you really want to preserve the originals, it is easier to pick locks than people think. Double bitted it a bit of a PITA to learn on though. The blades that street sweepers drop everywhere make great improvised picks and torsion tools.

 

People say "Well what do you do once you've got the lock open? You still don't have a key". It's possible to pull all the pins from the lock once you've got the lock plug out of the machine so then you don't need any key, the lock just turns. I assume a locksmith would be able to make a key from the plug too.

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Locks.....Flat screw driver with a square shaft.

 

Shifter on square shaft.

 

Insert screw drive tip in lock slot.

 

Gut against screw driver handle to hold in place and turn shifter down 90 degrees.

 

POP, your in and can recover all the parts except the barrel..

 

Takes about 5 seconds.;)

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Wow that coin door came up really nice!

Thanks for all the tips. I think I'll just use std barrel locks if you cant get originals. I won't bother with lock picking, as you've said what about keys.

Cheers,

Brad

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So drilled the locks out today and found the original service packet inside along with a pack of fuses and a notebook with service dates on it and what they did. Service dates only go back to 1980 but very very cool!

Schematics, instructions, operator instruction, site instructions, coil instructions, spare game instruction cards, a myriad of score cards as apparently you can adjust it to about 10 different scoring methods. Also the remains of a rubber kit. I've taken closeup shots of everything in case someone is interested.

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Brad

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cool, just saw this :)

 

game designer norm clark = winning. that guy was a legend designer.

 

seeing it has only one coin slot i would say she is originally from europe, probably a good bet one of tony turner's import as there were 3 (from memory) in one of his containers.

 

now - the legs, as doug said if you have the 25" for the front that is huge bonus as they are almost impossible to find. i would suggest evaporust then hammertone them, those williams legs come up looking awesome after that.

 

same goes for the door, they come up looking pretty cool with hammertone paint. the bolt heads will come up sweet putting them in a drill and hitting them with very fine wet and dry with some nifty.

 

front door decals are available from pinball rescue: http://www.pinballrescue.net/Decals_Coin_Door.html

 

regarding the paint match, seriously i think too many people get too picky on being the perfect blue/red/green etc. if you can get a section around the 4cm square you can take the cab into bunnings (or the head with the guts/backglass out) and get them to paint match it. other than that, get colours close enough and go with that.

 

white base antique white.

 

nobody will ever look at the game and think, okay that blue is 1 shade too light/dark.

 

redoing that design will be easy. honestly wouldn't go with stencils, would go with tape - see my surf side resto.

 

the biggest pain will be joining up all those wires between the head and cab.

 

top rollover button is missing, either send me a pm with your postal address and i will send a new one or grab one when you are down here in a few months.

 

nothing that can't be saved and restored on this old girl.

 

look forward to watching the progress.

 

oh and welcome to the dark side ;)

Edited by illawarra_steelers
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No your description was spot on as its exactly how I thought it would be. Will be doing this over the christmas break as I have 3 weeks off!

 

Cheers,

 

Brad

 

Sweet goodies!

 

In case my description of the dip tube I use for legs wasn't clear, here's a picture:

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illawarra_steelers said:
cool, just saw this 🙂

 

game designer norm clark = winning. that guy was a legend designer.

 

seeing it has only one coin slot i would say she is originally from europe, probably a good bet one of tony turner's import as there were 3 (from memory) in one of his containers.

Normally I'd defer to your knowledge as you've forgotten more about EM's than I'll ever know. In this case though I'm lucky enough to have access to more clues. I mean you could still be right but I don't think this machine ever left our fair shores. Check out some of the hints in the photos!

First, everything is in English and I know that's spoken a lot in various countries over there but still a good indicator. Second if my research is correct, the coin door with that coin slot was in the original run for these machines. They were changed to STD body shape and 3 slot mechs in the second run which rumour has it was due to the huge popularity in Germany :unsure

There are entries here from 1980 up to 1993. I'm assuming the numbers against each entry are part numbers?

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Then we have an old pack of fuses with "Made in Australia" on them

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illawarra_steelers said:
now - the legs, as doug said if you have the 25" for the front that is huge bonus as they are almost impossible to find. i would suggest evaporust then hammertone them, those williams legs come up looking awesome after that.

 

same goes for the door, they come up looking pretty cool with hammertone paint. the bolt heads will come up sweet putting them in a drill and hitting them with very fine wet and dry with some nifty.

 

front door decals are available from pinball rescue: http://www.pinballrescue.net/Decals_Coin_Door.html

Yes I'm going to bow to the recommendations all of you guys have given. I'll hunt up the appropriate brand, colours later. I'm going to put together a work list and then the requirements for each as I go. @millsy56 post for that is gold!

illawarra_steelers said:
regarding the paint match, seriously i think too many people get too picky on being the perfect blue/red/green etc. if you can get a section around the 4cm square you can take the cab into bunnings (or the head with the guts/backglass out) and get them to paint match it. other than that, get colours close enough and go with that.

 

white base antique white.

 

nobody will ever look at the game and think, okay that blue is 1 shade too light/dark.

 

redoing that design will be easy. honestly wouldn't go with stencils, would go with tape - see my surf side resto.

As above this is great. I'm not really going to use stencils, I just want to use that method for easy measurements. I used tape when I built my V-Pin as linked in the first post and it came up a treat. The design on this is really easy so should be pretty good. My only issue is that we're hitting massive humidity season here so may not be the best weather for painting. Do you guys use foam rollers or brushes? Also what sort of paint, acrylic, enamel?

 

illawarra_steelers said:
the biggest pain will be joining up all those wires between the head and cab.

 

Actually this may show how naive I am when it comes to pinball machines but this is the bit other than the painting that I'm most comfortable about. Done LOTS of wiring over the years. Please let me know if I'm kidding myself :lol

 

illawarra_steelers said:
top rollover button is missing, either send me a pm with your postal address and i will send a new one or grab one when you are down here in a few months.

 

Mate VERY generous and I'll be sure to hit you up if/when needed. You might curse that though as I'll probably ask a lot of questions 😄

 

illawarra_steelers said:
nothing that can't be saved and restored on this old girl.

 

look forward to watching the progress.

 

IK'm really excited about this project. It's a beautiful piece and deserved to be rescued imo.

 

illawarra_steelers said:
oh and welcome to the dark side 😉

 

LOL I know, a slippery slope I reckon.

Check out some closeups. I can scan all of these in high resolution if anyone wants them?

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Actually this may show how naive I am when it comes to pinball machines but this is the bit other than the painting that I'm most comfortable about. Done LOTS of wiring over the years. Please let me know if I'm kidding myself :lol

Few bags of wire nuts should do it. ;)

 

I've found getting solder to take to old wire is a lot more finicky than fresh. The colours on the insulation are likely faded and hard to distinguish so you might have to do some tracing to make sure you're connecting the right things. If you've got an accurate schematic, I think it'll be fiddly, but not overly difficult. I have never had to do it so I could be wrong.

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Are numbers in the note book increasing with each date entry? High scores maybe?

 

Damn never thought of that. I wonder? Maybe a coin counter for how many games have been played on it?

 

Brad

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Okay guys, I maybe getting a little too excited about all of this. I've been reading up links all over the place for repair/maintenance. This is a great resource: http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=EM_Repair#Introduction along with this gold: http://www.pinrepair.com/em/

I want to do most of this myself so it's going to be a journey and a half but I can't wait. I've put together a VERY quick brief list of tasks (in no particular order) with no detail as yet. Can you experienced guys sanity check it and possible answer any questions? Appreciate any help, pointers, additions, advice and no no's 🙂

Task List

Cabinet:

  • Strip down
  • Trace
  • Paint Stripper/sand
  • Bog
  • Undercoat
  • Tape
  • Paint

Head box:

  • Take out Translite and triple thick it
  • Strip down
  • Trace
  • Paint Stripper/Sand
  • Bog
  • Undercoat
  • Tape
  • Paint

Mechanics:

  • How to clean?
  • Disassemble cab without having to take them all apart?

Legs/Coin Door:

  • Evaporust
  • Metal Primer
  • Paint (hammertone)

Wiring:

  • Re-wire harness.
  • How to test everything before plugging in?

Playfield:

  • Novus clean
  • Breakdown/restore pop-bumpers,
  • Plastics
  • Drop Targets
  • Replace roll over/s

Check to see if power switch. If not put one in.

Investigate replacing bulbs with LED's

Shooter rod is missing end

Missing Leg Bolts. Need to check for internal brackets.

Things to purchase:

  • Krylon Triple Thick (will 1 tin be enough?)
  • 2 x Barrel Locks
  • 4 Leg Levellers
  • Shooter Rod or rod end
  • Rubber kit
  • New Balls
  • Leg Bolts & Maybe Brackets
  • LED's?
  • New Pop Bumpers?

What vendors are best for all of this? Have I forgotten anything?

Cheers,

Brad

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