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ajfclark said:
The coil stop is the metal nugget that sits just inside the sleeve when the coil is mounted. The plunger slams into it every time the flipper activates.

 

I mount my coils with the lugs closest to the flipper shaft.

Ah I get you now. I might with a little care be able to do that. I'll have a look once I get a new coil in. I've had to order a replacement as that coil sleeve will not come out without destroying the coil itself.

One question I have is about the EOS gaps. Obviously this machine being 52 years old has had repeated work done on it. The EOS switches are mounted to the playfield with a bracket and 2 screws. Over the years with adjustments and replacements there are holes all around the mount. Finding a spot that suits so the switch is activated is now difficult.

I was thinking of taking them out and filling all the holes in so I could start from scratch. Is this a feasible idea and if so what material do you guys recommend?

The other question is that how wide should the gap between the EOS contacts be when the flipper is fully engaged?

Cheers,

Brad

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I've used bog to fill beaten out screw holes ( https://www.bunnings.com.au/selleys-plastibond-150g-heavy-duty-bog_p1210326 ).

 

Re the gap, I aim for around 2mm. Vid1900 says ⅛" ~3mm bit that seems huge to me. The mounting doesn't need to be perfect as you can tweak the EOS blades a bit. Can you post a picture of the holes?

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Thanks for that. I'm at work so will post a photo tonight.

I suppose part of the gap question might include exactly when the opening starts. My understanding is that the EOS is normally closed so current can pass through to the coil. When the flipper is used it opens the switch to stop sending power to the coil and overheating it, especially when holding the flipper in position?

So opening the switch too early could cause performance issues?

I should also note, that the flippers are amazingly smooth now since the rebuild. Definitely a vast improvement and sorely needed.

Cheers,

Brad

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Clay goes into it in great detail in his EM repair guide: http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm#flips

 

This image gives the basic overview of what you're talking about:

http://www.pinrepair.com/em/flipal1.jpg

 

That's series wound coils, but parallel wound is very similar. This is from a later DC solid state pin, but you get the idea:

http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wms11/s11flip0.gif

 

Both do the same thing, when the EOS is closed, current can flow through the power winding and when the EOS is open it can't. So there's a few ways the EOS can cause problems (this is not exhaustive):

1. Not closing at all - the power winding conducts, all flipper movement (if any) is through the hold winding

2. Not closing firmly or burnt contacts, etc - makes the path through the power winding higher resistance, sapping strength from the power winding

3. Not opening at all - the power winding doesn't turn off when the button is held, leading to the coil burning

4. Opening too early - the power winding turns off too early, sapping strength from the flipper

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ajfclark said:

4. Opening too early - the power winding turns off too early, sapping strength from the flipper

That's a great explanation and this is my concern with placement of the switches.

And @Autosteve there's no real way for me to know which holes were the original and it probably doesn't matter as the new switches are newer models to the originals. So for me placement needs to be concerned with two things.

1 - When the switch should start opening

2 - How far should it open.

Either way, I'm going to take all 4 out and fill in ALL of the holes so I have a clean slate.

Cheers,

Brad

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1 and 2 are the same thing, adjusting the short blade sets where it stops.

 

I hold the flipper fully up, adjust short blade till it's a couple of mm from the long blade (which is held by the pawl), drop flipper, adjust long blade if needed to close tighter.

 

All adjustments made at the base of the blades.

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As an FYI I was after a Williams 1969 Parts Catalogue. Unfortunately any I could find were on Ebay Internationally which I was happy to pay for but $30.00 for shipping which was more than the book costs turned me off. I said I'd source a PDF copy and if I could find one, make it available. So here it is.

Some of the VERY small text on only a few pages is a little hard to read but still VERY readable. The rest is pretty good. I've uploaded it here. It's just over 10Mb

Edit: Added some more

Williams 1960 Parts Catalogue

Williams 1962 Parts Catalogue

Williams 1964 Parts Catalogue

Williams 1966 Parts Catalogue

Williams 1969 Parts Catalogue

Williams 71-72 Parts Catalogue

Williams 74-75 Parts Catalogue

Williams 77-78 Parts Catalogue

Williams 1980 Parts Catalogue

Cheers,

Brad

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  • 2 weeks later...
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Flipper rebuild complete! Complete kits through all 4 and a replacement coil along with GOOD EOS switches.

Here you can see the old and new coils side by side

spacer.png

Note that the sleeve is in "backwards". I went and looked back through my tear down photos @ajfclark and notices that someone had replaced this in the past and had used your method of reversing the coil placement. Still try as I might I could net get that old sleeve out and ended up breaking the coil so had to be replaced.

Here it is in its new home. Don't worry, I've since put the circlip in.

spacer.png

Full view of all flippers.

spacer.png

One thing I noticed as I was plugging the playfield jones plugs in was that the outside spring on the coin unit had come off at the top end. To tell you the truth I only noticed as the harness got tangled in it. Here's me thinking...could THIS be the fix I was needing?

So I put the old girl back together, said 3 hail marys, turned around three times whilst hopping on one foot, plugged her in and turned it on.

Success though as it actually resets all the reels now.

Problem 1 - The Pin fired up straight away when I turned the power switch on. It shouldn't, it should only start AFTER I press the left flipper button

Problem 2 - The old issue of the machine not completing its reset sequence and the Roulette Wheel constantly spinning has returned.

So now it comes down to fault-finding and I'm not sure where to start :unsure

Any tips, suggestions and pointers will be really appreciated!

Cheers,

Brad

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Very nice work sir. All looks good on the flippers. Don't be afraid to change the wires on the flipper circuits if they start getting to short. Nothing wrong with putting in new wires plus new wires make for easier soldering.

 

Ideally when you use that style EOS switch, you want to try and keep the long blade dead straight and use the shorter blade and it's helper blade to adjust but hey EMs can sometimes be if it works it's good enough.

 

One trick I use to mount coils is undo both coil mount brackets till loose. Thumb on one end and 1st finger on the other end, squeeze together to take up all the slack between the coil and both brackets and re-tighten the bolts.

 

You do both ends at the same time and the end stops are more incline to sit flat on the coil and less chance of one bracket bolt wearing all the shock of the coil if the bracket is not flat to the coil.

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Autosteve said:

Very nice work sir. All looks good on the flippers. Don't be afraid to change the wires on the flipper circuits if they start getting to short. Nothing wrong with putting in new wires plus new wires make for easier soldering.

Ideally when you use that style EOS switch, you want to try and keep the long blade dead straight and use the shorter blade and it's helper blade to adjust but hey EMs can sometimes be if it works it's good enough.

One trick I use to mount coils is undo both coil mount brackets till loose. Thumb on one end and 1st finger on the other end, squeeze together to take up all the slack between the coil and both brackets and re-tighten the bolts.

You do both ends at the same time and the end stops are more incline to sit flat on the coil and less chance of one bracket bolt wearing all the shock of the coil if the bracket is not flat to the coil.

Yeah I see one of the wires had already been replaced but they just replaced it with another really short wire.

Getting solder to stick to a few of them was a nightmare even with using flux.

With the switches, in my overseas order I bought a switch adjustment tool. MAde the job SOOOO much easier. Now all 4 flipper EOS switches are tightly shut and when fully extended there is about 2.5 -3 mm gap so I'm happy. I still have to tighten the actual flippers to the flipper shaft as I intend to do that in place on the cab, just easier that way when doing it solo.

I'll take your advice on the flipper coils. 3 of them are tight with no movement. The 4th has about 1mm movement in it so I'll give it a shot.

Cheers,

Brad

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Brad said:

Yeah I see one of the wires had already been replaced but they just replaced it with another really short wire.

Getting solder to stick to a few of them was a nightmare even with using flux.

All I can suggest with the soldering is a butane solder iron, ( from JayCar), and pre-solder the wire first.

Hold the pre-soldered wire and the terminal against each other and reheat.

I don't put the wires through the hole in the lug because it makes it an arse sometimes to remove them next time.

Brad said:

With the switches, in my overseas order I bought a switch adjustment tool. MAde the job SOOOO much easier. Now all 4 flipper EOS switches are tightly shut and when fully extended there is about 2.5 -3 mm gap so I'm happy. I still have to tighten the actual flippers to the flipper shaft as I intend to do that in place on the cab, just easier that way when doing it solo.

Contact adjuster tools are magic when you don't loose them.

Brad said:

 

I'll take your advice on the flipper coils. 3 of them are tight with no movement. The 4th has about 1mm movement in it so I'll give it a shot.

Yer it was this picture that looked a bit "how you going" with a gap on one side of the coil bracket...

spacer.png

Just back off all the 4 bolts holding each end of the coil. Grab the loose brackets and the coil between your thumb and first finger and tighten while giving it a bit of a wiggle and the brackets should come in flat with the coil ends.

If they don't, one of the bolt holes is not square. Surgery required or a Gottlieb coil wafer washer.

Williams 67-79 flipper setup.....

http://www.actionpinball.com/pics/u486.jpg

Notice the crank spring is gone and replaced with a compression spring?.

A little easier to get the spring tension right but maybe in the future so you get some use out of your flipper kit.

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  • 1 month later...
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Finally freed up a little time to try and find out why the score reel motors wouldn't complete a reset.

On the 3rd player number 1 reel, the reel seemed to be jammed. I could not move it at all so had to take it out and pull it apart. Once I'd removed the coil mount from the reel frame and taken the coil rod out I could finally remove the reel. Unfortunately it was still jamming but only intermittently.

Upon closer inspection the reel had a wobble in it like it was loose. I proceed to take the cir-clip off and then unscrew the 3 screws holding the reel onto the shaft. The screws would not undo. They'd turn but not lift out and I was getting concerned that they'd been stripped :realmad:

I looked a little close and realised that whoever had "fiddled" with this in the past had not put the reel on correctly. There is a small protuberance that locks the reel onto the mechanism into the correct position. Some clown had put it back on incorrectly and then put the 3 screws back in. Thing is as it wasn't aligned properly the screws didn't actually land in their holes to lock it in place. The screws stayed there as the reel holes were tight enough to hold them in place. :rolleyes

Now before anyone points the finger, I have NOT taken any of the reels off so it wasn't me 😛

So I quickly put the reel back on and NOW it moves perfectly fine albeit the springs are a little weak. Yay, I put the coil rod back in mounted the coil back on and bam.........jammed again 😕

Take the coil back off and test sleeve movement. It was getting blocked. Shine a light down the inside of the coil to be presented with this!

spacer.png

The sleeve has a large bend in it and the coil rod kept hitting it. How the hell does that even happen?

Also I cannot get the sleeve out at all. Any tips on removing the sleeve without damage?

Cheers,

Brad

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Is that grease or solid plastic? If it's plastic, I'd guess the coil either got locked on and super hot at some point or the plunger and coil weren't in alignment and the plunger has been carving the side of the sleeve every time it activated. Given you can't get the sleeve out, I'm guessing the former though.
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With my eyes it's too hard to see to be honest but definitely not grease. Looks like maybe the coil has expanded at that point and pushed the plastic out. Either way as the guys have said looks like new coil time. The coil is a B26-800. I've looked at www.pinballspareparts.com.au and mrpinball.com.au and neither stock it that I could find.

 

Is there an equivalent I can use?

 

Brad

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With my eyes it's too hard to see to be honest but definitely not grease. Looks like maybe the coil has expanded at that point and pushed the plastic out. Either way as the guys have said looks like new coil time. The coil is a B26-800. I've looked at www.pinballspareparts.com.au and mrpinball.com.au and neither stock it that I could find.

 

Is there an equivalent I can use?

 

Brad

Is this right? https://www.rtbb.com.au/product/coil-williams-b1-26-800/ or completely the wrong format?

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

Or this: https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/b1-26-800.html

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Its definitely not a 1 and the terminal placement is different from the second link

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]139618[/ATTACH]

 

pbresource lists the B-26-800 as "could provide substitute". I'd guess if they don't have teh exact coil, no one will. If the frame is the right size, the different spacing in the terminals shouldn't make any difference to the operation of the coil as they're both 26 gauge wire, 800 turns.

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Also I cannot get the sleeve out at all. Any tips on removing the sleeve without damage?

 

Cheers,

 

Brad

 

A rat tail file and carefully file the old sleeve out of the coil much like drilling a broken bolt out of a thread. They usually come out once one side of the sleeve is filed away so just concentrate on one side of the sleeve and it should be able to be pried out without damaging the coil.

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Thanks guys.

I'm going to go over each of the other score reels to see if I need anything else, then I'll place an order for parts.

Thanks Millsy. I ran another reset sequence and other reels aren't completely resetting. I took a photo so now I can easily see which ones ares problematic and go over them then I'll decide what I need to do 😃

Cheers,

Brad

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