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Thread: Williams A-Go-Go 1966

  1. #1
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    Williams A-Go-Go 1966

    I thought I better put a placeholder in for my restore and for feedback, suggestions and help: https://www.aussiearcade.com/showthr...ll-in-da-house

    This is an interesting machine:

    One of only three 4-player Williams games to have the 2nd player located in the lower left corner of the backglass and the 3rd player in the upper right.

    Design by: Norm Clark
    Art by: Jerry Kelley
    Notes: 'A-Go-Go' was the first machine to use a captive ball spinner, invented by Norm Clark.

    During the production run, the coin door was changed from the large single-slot to a smaller multiple slot and the drop-down cabinet was eliminated. We do not know how many games were produced in each cabinet style. Reportedly, the January 1967 issue of the German trade magazine Münzautomat stated that the standard cabinet games were Later Production games and were manufactured due to a high demand in Germany.

    I have the earlier version with the single coin slot and the drop down cabinet.



    To put it bluntly, the paintwork is completely rat shit. But the timber itself is in fantastic condition so a repaint is on the way. I'll trace the existing and mask/paint which I'm not too bad at. See my minipin as an example: https://www.aussiearcade.com/showthr...hlight=minipin

    My big question is how do I match the colours when they're so faded?



    Of course there is no key for the 2 locks on it so I cannot currently open it up.

    I'm assuming I'll have to drill these out then replace?
    Can you get original replacements for them?



    Backglass is also very faded and in the centre a fair bit has come away. I'll have to replace this at some stage.

    Can I treat with anything to stop it degrading anymore in the meantime?



    Playfield, is to my untrained eye surprisingly good although one of the roll-overs? looks like it's lifted. Again not surprising for a 52 year old game thats been sitting idle for many years. I can take a closer look once I can get the glass off. The glass is filthy.









    Unfortunately some clown cut the harness to the back-box, easily repaired but I'm not going near any of the electrics until way further down the restore path.

    I've already sourced schematics for it so that's a start.



    Coin door is rusty in places. Do I replace or restore. I'd prefer to restore if feasible. Legs are in shocking condition, so I think they'll need to be replaced =(

    There's also a ball in the bottom shute



    Cheers,

    Brad

  2. #2
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    You can mylar the backglass and or krylon triple thick first


    http://shop.mrpinball.com.au/product...ze-clear-coat/

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    Triple thick the backglass.

    Quote Originally Posted by Brad View Post
    Coin door is rusty in places. Do I replace or restore. I'd prefer to restore if feasible. Legs are in shocking condition, so I think they'll need to be replaced =(
    There's also a ball in the bottom shute
    The coin door on these are extra large, much larger than your normal coin door, as they were made for the large coin mechs which could sort 3 different coins.... I think you may have to try to restore it as finding a replacement would be like finding hens teeth.

    Good luck with it, you have a big job ahead of you with all that cosmetic work.
    www.pinballmuseum.com.au
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    Blues used in my past Williams repaint may help.
    http://pinballaustralia.com/missorestocabH.htm
    http://pinballaustralia.com/paintmisso.htm
    Maybe hammertone the coin door
    http://pinballaustralia.com/bazrestoaproncoinH.htm
    All lock barrels can be bought from Bunnings (cabinet hardware aisle)

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    Looks like you got it from the tip Sorry couldn't help myself.Good luck with the resto.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bingoman View Post
    Looks like you got it from the tip Sorry couldn't help myself.Good luck with the resto.

    I'm honestly under no illusions about the state of it

    Thanks for the tips guys, will be a lot of questions following on LOL

    Brad

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    Drop down cabs need special legs. Did you get them? The front just 25 inch or so

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    Quote Originally Posted by wiredoug View Post
    Drop down cabs need special legs. Did you get them? The front just 25 inch or so

    Yeah they came with them but holy hell they're in bad shape

    The outside are almost all surface rust

    28" rear and 25" front




  9. #9
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    awesome theres a 200 set of legs there.. ( unobtanium) ... time to buy some vinegar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Brad View Post
    Yeah they came with them but holy hell they're in bad shape
    They look better than the ones I have on Sky Jump. The worst started like this:


    I tried all different things but the best result for least effort was evaporust:


    Make a tube out of 90mm pvc that's slightly longer than the longest legs you'll ever do. Glue a fixed end cap on one end and a screw end cap on the other.

    Remove the levellers and pop in 2 legs and something less than 5L of evaporust. Leave overnight. Check. Depending on temperature and the amount of rust, might take a couple of days. Possibly need to retap the threads.

    I'd give the coin door a go in evaporust too.

    24 hours later:


    - - - Updated - - -

    With the locks, if you really want to preserve the originals, it is easier to pick locks than people think. Double bitted it a bit of a PITA to learn on though. The blades that street sweepers drop everywhere make great improvised picks and torsion tools.

    People say "Well what do you do once you've got the lock open? You still don't have a key". It's possible to pull all the pins from the lock once you've got the lock plug out of the machine so then you don't need any key, the lock just turns. I assume a locksmith would be able to make a key from the plug too.


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