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Thread: Bride of Pinbot (2.0)- Williams - 1991 - Repair & Service Log

  1. #11
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    Awesome job one of the most underrated games probably because most machines have been to hell and back but restored they are great game planning a full rebuild on mine including the 2.0 upgrade thanks for your post great information

  2. #12
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    I've been so busy lately working on other peoples machines, I decided to set aside a few hours this week to work through a few "to do" items on my own games. Normally I like to do much longer updates, but time is limited, so here is a nice quickie One of the things I've been really looking forward to doing is installing the Aux flipper switch upgrade board to my BoP 2.0. What is this? At present, when you're in the profile menus or video mode, where the flippers would be disabled in modern DMD games, they are still enabled in BoP 2.0. So as you play the video mode, the flippers are still flipping away when you press the buttons. Scott Danesi created a small upgrade board which hooks in to two extra switches on the P-ROC board (CPU board supplied with the BoP 2.0 kit) and allows the flippers to be disabled while still registering presses. The kit is really straight forward and can be installed by anyone.



    The first step is to disconnect the 18 pin IDC plug from the coin door interface board. The upgrade board plugs directly in to where this connector was and then the 18 pin connector plugs in on top of the upgrade board.



    The next step is to install the switches next to the existing flipper switches. It comes with a small actuator that presses in when the flipper button is pressed and activates the aux switch. This switch is checked by the P-ROC board and will allow the flipper to register without having to power the flippers normally. When the feature is activated in the sortware, the developers can enable/disable power to the flippers as certain points of the game (in the video mode for example), but still read these additional switches to know the player is pressing the flipper buttons. I had to relocate the flipper LED to the other side to make way for the new switch.



    The same actuator bit and switch are also installed on the other side of the cabinet. Just like with the other side, I had to relocate my back lit flipper LED.



    Once the upgrade is physically installed, the last step is to activate it in the game. Jumping into the menu, there is an option to enable this.



    That's all there is to it. At the start of the game, I entered the profile select screen and the flippers no longer activate when the flipper buttons are pressed. Same with video mode, now the flippers no longer activate while playing it. It's a really nice little mod and helps bring BoP 2.0 even close to a modern DMD game. You can read more about the mod from the website - http://www.danesidesigns.com/product...h-hookup-board
    Eschew the standard. Turn the paradigm upside down.

  3. #13
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    Epic

  4. #14
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    Something that has been on my to do list for the last 8 months is take a backup (drive mirror) of the hard drive in my Bride of Pinbot 2.0 machine. At the very heart of the 2.0 upgrade kit is a mini PC running Windows on a solid state drive (SSD). Solid state drives are very reliable, but like any computer - it's at risk of failure over time. If your BoP 2.0 hard drive becomes corrupt or the drive dies - there's no install CD to run and get it up again. The mini PC hardware can be replaced - but what's on that drive can't. Small SSD's are cheap now (the one I purchased for this backup here was $35AU) and because it is just a Windows computer, you can mirror the drive with a full backup should some disaster occur. I thought I would put together this post as a solid reference for any other BoP 2.0 owners wanting to mirror their drive so it's easy to restore if a new HDD / computer is needed. There's a good video tutorial for backing up your BoP 2.0 on YouTube (Search for "Bride of Pinbot 2.0 Backup And Restore"), which uses a different method to what I cover here. Both methods work though, so go with what you're more comfortable with



    To do the drive mirror, I need to get the hard drive out of the machine. The Mini PC is mounted to the rear of the headbox. To remove it from the mount, simply slide the computer up. To get access to the hard drive, you need to undo 4 screws at the base of the mini PC.



    The base then pulls away, with the hard drive attached. I've blacked out the account and BoP 2.0 serial numbers which are printed on a label attached to the hard drive. These will be different for each BoP 2.0 kit. I'll include a small note at the end of the post about the serial number which is important if you were using a backup from someone else. Be careful when removing the base as the hard drive has a cable running to the main board, which will need to be disconnected. You don't want to be too rough and damage the wiring when pulling the base away.



    The hard drive is installed on to the base panel of the computer via a caddy. Undoing a few screws will have it out in seconds. Now I can go about taking a mirror of the drive for a backup. The first step is to get the hard drive mounted on my PC. I use an external hard drive dock that the hard drive plugs in to and connects to the computer via a USB cable. This then allows the computer to see it as if connected up internally. Again, I've blacked out the BoP serial number.



    After a few moments, Windows will recognise the drive and allow you to view it via Windows Explorer. The Bop 2.0 setup runs on a cut down (+ slightly modified) version of Windows 7 Home Basic and is installed on a small 30 GB SSD drive. There are actually two partitions on the drive mapped to F: and G: (System Reserved and Local Disk). Both of these need to be included in the backup. The smaller partition (System Reserved) contains boot information, while the larger partition has Windows, applications and Dutch Pinball software.



    To perform the backup, I'll be using a software package called Acronis True Image. This will take a complete copy of the drive, which I can then restore to a new brand new drive and simply plug it in to my BoP computer. That way I don't have to worry about any installing or configuring. To begin the process, I started up the Acronis software and selected "Create New Backup".



    I don't want to backup the entire PC, only the BoP drive. So I click "Disks and Partitions" so I can specify just the drives I want.



    Here I select the F: and G: drives from the BoP hard drive and press OK.



    Now I need to set the target for the drive image to be backed up to. Press "Browse" and create a folder on another hard drive - I called mine "Bride of Pinbot". The drive your backing up to will need about 15 GB of spare space for the image to be written to. It depends though on how much space you have used on your BoP 2.0 drive. For example, the more firmware versions you have installed, the more space it will required. You can actually delete out old firmware versions (if desired) via Windows explorer before running the backup as they are no longer needed.



    Before starting the backup though, we need to change one of the advanced settings. Click "options" and then the advanced tab. Make sure "Back up sector-by-sector" is ticked. Failing to tick this will not get the desired results (which i'll show further down the tutorial below).



    With the source and target now set, along with the advance options, press "Backup Now" to begin.



    Acronis will start the backup process. This took around 15 minutes to do. The BoP drive is only 30 GB in size and roughly two thirds of that is used. Each firmware update is around 800 MB in size, so depending on how many firmware versions you have installed, the size of the data to copy will vary. On mine I have 3 versions (1.13, 1.16 & 1.19). I should probably delete out 1.13 and 1.16.



    Once the backup process is complete in Acronis, I can confirm the backup file was created by using Windows Explorer to browse to the backup folder. There I could see the .tib file created by Acronis.



    It's no good having a backup and not knowing if it works or not. So my next step is to restore that backup .tib file to a new hard drive and install it back in the game. I purchased a 120 GB SSD from a local PC store for $35AU. BoP 2.0 only uses a 30 GB drive, but the 120 GB was the smallest drive they had. So i'll be left with plenty of empty space.



    The source BoP drive was unmounted and removed from the dock. The new drive was then installed into the dock. At this point I had to use Windows Disk Manager to initialise the new drive. Windows wouldn't recognise the new drive until I did so. I did a quick format on it and the new drive was ready to use. You don't need to worry about setting up partitions, the restore will wipe the drive anyway and create the two partitions. There are a few ways to open up the Disk Management application, one is to press Windows Key + R (Run) and then enter diskmgmt.msc and press enter.



    Back to Acronis, I select restore on the BoP backup and the drive I want to restore to. Before starting the restore though, we want to again go into options, select the advanced tab and make sure "Restore sector-by-sector" is ticked, since our backup was created using this method. Now press "Recover Now".



    The restore process then applies the backup to the new drive. Once complete, I used Windows Explorer to view the contents of the new drive. There I could see Windows and the Dutch Pinball files. So it looks like the restore has worked.



    There are two partitions that need to be restored though, and it's important to make sure they were restored correctly. Going back to the Disk Management tool, I can see that there are two patitions and the System Reserved partition is there. It's also important to make sure that Reserved partition has the "Active" flag set on it. During my attempts to mirror the drive, I had a few failed results, where two partitions were restored, but not correctly configured. In this case, the Reserved partition was there but did not look correct. Instead of saying "System Reserved" it has "EFI System Partition". This is due to Acronis changing the partition type on the new drive to GPT - when it needs to be MBR (as per the original hard drive).



    When restored correctly, both partitions should be visible. I found updating to Acronis 2019 fixed this and the restore process retains the partition type as MBR. It's vital as the small system partition contains boot information and without it, the game will not boot into Windows. Now the partitions look correct.



    If you're restoring a backup from someone else's BoP 2.0 game, you will need to set up your serial key. The only time you would be doing this is if you didn't make your own backup and were relying on someone else to give you a backup that you can restore from. I believe this is used for connection with the BoP 2.0 Live server when updating profiles and scores. There's a file called "serial" under the Dutch Pinball\brideofpinbot folder and it's just a text file with the 20 character serial number (with dashes so XXXXX-XXXXX-XXXXX-XXXXX). The serial number should be printed on a label attached to the original BoP hard drive (as shown blacked out earlier). You can edit the file in Notepad and save.



    With the backup drive ready, it's now time to test that the drive was mirrored successfully and the game boots and plays correctly. The mini PC was opened up again and the new SSD was installed into my BoP 2.0. The connectors were put back in to the mini PC and the machine powered on to boot.



    The game booted up successfully and several games were enjoyed to ensure everything worked as expected. That's all there is to it. At least - sort of. I had a few failed attempts with the recovery process, which did restore files to the new hard drive, but it was not in a bootable form. When installed back in to the BoP 2.0 computer, the machine would switch on but then sit at a blank screen or report an error about needing bootable media. I wish I had documented the failures and learning journey to explain and help others solve if they ran in to similar situations while trying to do this. In the end though, the disk cloning and boot issues are Windows / computer related issues (not Pinball) and there is a wealth of information out there that's helpful. I spent time googling for information which gave me leads and possible solutions to follow. I believe the main issue I faced was the restore by Acronis, which was changing (forcing) the drive partition type on the new Hard Drive to GPT. The BoP 2.0 computer wanted the MBR partition type - which is what the original hard drive was set up with. I found switching to Acronis True Image 2019 (from the 2016 version I started with) sorted the issue out. There were some interesting lessons learnt along the way

    At the cost of a new SSD ($35AU), my BoP 2.0 HDD is backed up in case of failure. I'm leaving the new drive in the game and keeping the original as the backup. What I love about this method is the back up drives are plug and play - so I can very easily get the game running again in case of a hard drive failure / Windows meltdown. I also copied the .tib file from Acronis on to two USB sticks as I can use this file to restore from again if both drives were to ever fail. It's an extra level of protection. For 2.0 owners, a backup is well worth doing (even mandatory) as there's no simple way to get your game up and running again if the HDD becomes corrupt or dies. There was a post from Scott (Danesi) on Pinside a few years ago saying that DP do have original mirrors for restoring a BoP 2.0 hard drive if needed (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/to...-20-kit/page/8) - This is good to hear, but don't risk relying on someone else. Play it safe - and do your back up!
    Last edited by Jesder; 15th November 2018 at 08:40 AM.
    Eschew the standard. Turn the paradigm upside down.

  5. #15
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    When it comes to my Bride of Pinbot 2.0, I can't help myself. I'm always looking to add upgrades and improvements as it's my favorite game. With a four week break coming up, I have plans for a playfield swap and new decals over the Xmas holidays. Before I get to that however, there are a couple of smaller things I want to get done. The first is replacing the board that controls the lamps on the brides helmet with an upgraded version. When switching to LED's, you lose the fade effect that would normally be present as part of the lamp sequence that plays out. As a result the different chase sequences that play out on the brides helmet are not smooth. Luckily, a pinside member created a new board to solve this. It can be used in a standard BoP and also a 2.0 machine.



    The board is not only an upgrade, but can also be used as a drop in replacement for the original if need be. To apply the fade effect the board uses Pulse Width Modulation (PWM), which achieves an analog result from digital input. Although the board is a drop in replacement, to use the PWM feature, you need to make one small change to the game. Normally, the helmet receives power from a wire that runs from the headbox. We need to instead run a new wire from one of the unused pins on the new board to that power wire leading to the helmet instead. I dug out some spare wire from an old harness and also some new connectors from Jaycar. Having to source your own connector is the only downside about the upgrade and stops it from being a simple plug and play package. It would be a complete package if one was provided, but for most people it won't be an issue.



    If you wanted to use the board as a replacement and not use the PWM feature, you don't need to worry about the new wire and instead just add a small jumper between these two pins on the board itself (something like this -https://www.marcospecialties.com/pin...ts/PS-2012J-CR) You can then install it directly as a replacement for the current board.



    The old control board is attached under the playfield. There are three connectors, two of which run to the helmet, while the third (smallest one) is an input. We will need to pilfer the 4 screws and PCB legs for the replacement board.



    The original board was removed and the upgrade installed in its place. Next up the new wire was installed to the top pin of the left connector, which will need to connect up to the power wire that runs to the helmet.



    The new wire was connected up, which will run power to the helmet. The old wire (thick orange/white) which runs to the headbox can be left free. It's probably a good idea to tag it so when you (or a future owner) come to the machine, it's clear what the loose wire is for. I used a brown / white wire here, but a better solution would be to stick with orange / white (I seemed to have every other colour combination but this).*



    With the replacement board installed, the game was switched on. The LED's show me the board is now powered and running.



    To give you an idea of how the LED's appear before the upgrade, here's a short video. The flickering can be resolved with non ghosting LED's, but the lack of fade is noticeable. There are a few different sequences that animate through during attract and gameplay, this is just one of them (and probably the least harsh).



    With the upgrade board installed, the flickering is gone and the LED's now fade out as part of the animation sequence. Overall it's a lot smoother and quite noticeable across the various sequences uesd to animate the LED's during play. There's one LED on the left I need to adjust as it's not making good contact in the socket. I've never been fully happy with this style of LED on the helmet and have ordered some of the style I like from Pinball Life.



    Overall I'm happy with the upgrade. The board is high quality is only let down by the missing wire, which would make it a complete plug and play upgrade that anyone could install. The pinside member (pellew) was excellent to deal with when purchasing the board and for anyone interested in sourcing the upgrade, I highly recommend him. You can see the original thread he created on pinside about the board here - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/to...-use-with-leds
    Eschew the standard. Turn the paradigm upside down.

  6. #16
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    Who likes self punishment? I do, it seems. My BoP 2.0 machine came with a touched up and clear coated playfield when I purchased it 14 months ago and it's a task I knew I would get to at some point. But when you're having fun playing a game, it's hard to take it offline for some major changes. Playfield swaps are a time consuming process, so it's not something I've been looking forward to. I gained some excellent experience when I did my Pinbot CPR playfield a couple of years ago and I'll be rolling that knowledge in to how I approach this one. The up side here is the replacement playfield is an existing playfield, so all screw holes (both sides) are already there. New playfields have (most) screw holes dimpled, but can be up to 1mm out in any direction (according to CPR - not sure if that also applies to other playfield makers). On my Pinbot playfield, I found many dimples missing on the underside. This can be a pain for assemblies under the playfield that are made up of 2 or 3 components, consisting of up to 12 screws, which all need to line up in order for it to operate smoothly. The current playfield in my game isn't bad by any stretch as mylar across the central playfield and pop bumper areas has protected most of it. I actually think it would make a great drop in replacement for someone who has a trashed playfield or someone who wants to touch up and clear coat one for themselves. Time to begin the process.



    First step is to take a series of photos of the playfield from many angles. Having done a lot of work on my BoP already, I'm pretty familiar with how the playfield should be and where things go. But my memory isn't photographic and if I'm putting things back and something isn't quite right, the photos come to the rescue. Something I learnt last time was to take more photos that you think you'll need - better to have too many reference photos than not enough!

    Stripping the top of the playfield is the next step. I again take a lot of photos during the process and I group parts in to bags to make reassembly easier. For example there will be a bag for the left sling shot parts and separate bag for the right sling shot parts. This is repeated all the way up the playfield and things are grouped to make it obvious where they go. It also helps ensure parts don't get mixed up or go missing as the bags are sealed.

    Where there are similar parts like metal posts, some of which are similar sizes, I tag them with numbers, take a photo and then remove them. This helps ensure the correct posts go back in to the correct spots. I use this with the pop bumpers too as this means I get lamp wiring back in the correct way.



    I continued to remove the remaining parts on top of the playfield until everything (except the flippers) were off. The top of the playfield was now stripped and it was ready to be removed. This makes the playfield a lot lighter and easier to get out of the cabinet. The stand up targets and sling shot parts that stick above the playfield will be undone from below in the next phase of the swap.



    Before I remove the playfield though, I tag all the connectors in the headbox so I know exactly what board and position they go back in to. Photos are also taken of the boards before the tagging is done, so I can clearly see which connectors go where.



    The parts from the top of the playfield were set aside in two boxes and put in to a safe place, ready for rebuilding shortly.



    With the playfield ready to be removed, I next need to do some prep work on the replacement playfield. Whoever clear coated the playfield decided to leave the pop bumper shanks in. This isn't a bad idea.



    ...Except when they decide to cut off the tips of the shanks. There are two approaches here that would have been far better. Leave the pop bumper shanks in as is and clear over the tops. The down side to that is you have 9 shanks exposed while transporting the playfield. Or secondly, remove them and apply the clear. It's much easier (and safer) to use a brad tipped drill piece to scrap away the clear around the hold edge before installing the shanks again, then having to carefully pick away at the clear around the screws here and then remove what's left. Using a needle tipped scraping tool (not sure what the correct term for it is), the clear over the heads was carefully removed so the old shanks could be removed and those from my original playfield installed in their place. The staple and pop bumper lamp leg remnants were removed also.



    Across several areas of the underside of the clear coated playfield were sticky patches, probably from some sort of tape. I wanted to clean this away before transferring the parts across. Eucalyptus oil was used to clear away the residue.



    A number of the inserts had a white substance across the underside of them.



    This was cleaned up to get the inserts clear, allowing as much light through from the LED's as possible.



    The old playfield was removed from the cabinet and set down, ready to have all screws removed from the underside so parts could be transferred to the new playfield. I don't have a rotisserie, which would make the next couple of phases much easier. Some saw horses will have to do. At this point I took another series of photos all the way up the playfield and from different angles. These will be used as reference when screwing everything back in to place on the new playfield. Because I'm transferring to an existing playfield, many things will be obvious as to where they go. That makes the reassembly task easier than going to a brand new playfield.



    I split the playfield up in to 3 sections: lower, middle and top. As I work my way up, I undo all the screws in a section, take more photos so I can clearly see which screws go where and then bag them up separately. The plan here is I can then take the screw bag for the lower section and reassemble the parts. Before moving to the next section, I should have no remaining screws and everything in that section should be screwed back in place. There are two different length screws used and it's important to make sure they go back in the correct spot. You don't want to use a long screw where a short one is required and find you end up with damage on the top side. After all three sections are complete, a tangled mess is left and ready to transfer across.



    I grabbed a large cardboad box from Bunnings and cut it into shape to fit the length and width of the playfield. All parts from the old playfield were lifted and the cardboard slid under until everything was resting on top of the cardboard sheet. I could then just slide the cardboard across to the new playfield in one motion. Finally the cardboard is carefully removed, leaving the parts transferred, roughly in the spots they need to go.



    The rear panel of the playfield had been removed and before I install it again, I want to give it a fresh coat of gloss black.



    After a clean and two coats of gloss black, the brackets, screws and rear panel were looking nicer and ready to go.



    A small mod I made to my machine awhile back was to install two small LED strips on the rear panel. I was never really happy with the result of them, as they were too bright. For GI, I much prefer the frosted dome LED's and decided to replace the strips with a series of #555's along the rear panel. I can then angle these as desired.



    Back to the playfield, I slowly chipped away at screwing everything back in to place. All the reference photos came in handy here and I'm glad I took extra shots from multiple angles as you can easily miss things with just a single shot. As mentioned earlier, the playfield had been split in to 3 sections: lower, middle and top. I started with the lower section and used the labeled screw pack. Once complete, I moved to the middle and then finally the top. This was a good way to ensure the correct screws went in to the correct locations and none were missed. It's always a good feeling to have nothing left over and everything attached at the end



    The playfield was flipped over and I began the process of installing parts again. Because the parts bags were grouped and labelled, it made installing them straight forward. I started with the pop bumpers, posts, trough and several ball guides. A brad tipped drill piece was used to scrape away some of the clear around the screw holes before screwing parts back in. This is the phase where a rotisserie really would make the job easier, but I'll get through it. Hard to justify buying / making one that's used once every 2 years.



    One of the challenges I faced with this playfield is that while many of the screw holes were still obvious and only needed some of the clear coat removed (using the brad tipped drill bits), there were holes that had been completely covered. In this section on the left, 4 holes were no longer visible. By rubbing my finger over the area, I managed to find very small traces of where the holes once were and they were carefully drilled. This also applied to several spots where wire forms are installed into the playfield (return lanes for example). The holes here had been completely filled in. Thankfully those holes go all the way through the playfield, so I could find their correct location from under the playfield, and these had to be carefully drilled from the bottom up first, and then a brad tipped piece used to remove some of the clear for the wire form to be installed. I don't understand why this was done, but it's just one of the unique challenges you face while doing this sort of thing.



    When I purchased the CPR plastic set 12 months ago, I never got around to replacing the PinBot values sign at the rear of the playfield. It's a pain to remove on its own, so I left it until it was time to do the playfield swap. That time has come. The original one looks fine and you don't really notice the colour improvement until you have both old and new side by side. Then it becomes clear how nice the new one looks!



    Bit by bit, I worked my way through the tub of parts bags, getting the playfield back together. The return lanes and sling shots were installed, along with more ball rails, posts and rubbers.



    The brides head is made up of 3 parts: the motor, the face box and the assembly plate. The switches needed a small adjustment before putting the head back into the playfield.



    The brides head was installed back into the playfield, along with the skill shot parts and many of the plastics. The playfield was now starting to take shape again.



    Another part I purchased awhile back, but didn't get in time for my previous work on the game was a new shuttle ramp from RTBB. This is the perfect time to get the new ramp in. I'll disassemble the old ramp and transfer the parts across to the new one. The old ramp isn't in terrible condition, but does have some damage around the entry. A cliffy set I purchased worked wonders for it, but since I had replaced the heart beat ramp, I was keen to replace this one too. With all the work put in to the machine, it felt like a disservice to not replace this ramp.



    In one of my parts orders many months ago, I included a new plastic housing for the ball lock. The old one isn't terrible, but cleaner plastic and fresh decals add some subtle improvement that probably only I care about



    The ramps were installed back on to the playfield, along with the mini playfield, rails and helmet. Doing all this with the playfield out of the cabinet made things easier, especially around the face and helmet area as feeding the connectors through while the playfield is in the cabinet can painful and the ultimate endurance test in patience. As I went, the vacuum was used to suck up lose dust and surfaces were wiped down to have the playfield as clean as possible. While not working on it, I left the playfield covered. Finally, the playfield was back together again. No spare screws or parts - if this was an Xbox / Playstation game, there would be a gold medal achievement unlocked for this feat I also added a few small mylar patches where the ball can drop - directly below the mini playfield and also in each return lane. A metal ball against clear coat - the ball will win - so this should add some protection.





    Before putting the playfield back in to the cabinet, I wanted to spend 20 minutes tidying up the wiring a bit. One issue I get every time I lift the playfield is the white power board always gets in the way. The power board is part of the BoP 2.0 kit, and is used to provide power to the Amp, LCD display and computer. After untangling the cables and wires, everything was organised to keep the power board at the back, away from the rear of the playfield.



    One last step before installing the playfield back into the cabinet was to tie some rope to the cables, which will make feeding them up to the headbox simple.



    The playfield was installed back into the cabinet. It's a lot heavier with all the parts attached and more awkward to get back in. So while keeping it out made reassembly easier, that made getting it back in tougher. So a bit of a trade off - but I think I went the correct path. The connectors were installed again in the headbox and the machine was now ready to power on. Now for some testing.

    A playfield swap is obviously very invasive to the machine, so there are always likely to be a few issues to sort out. The first issue I found before even switching the machine on. There is a small one way gate on the ramp that runs between the out hole and ball trough. I installed the gate in the wrong direction, so no balls could be fed through to the trough. I removed the apron to swap it around to how it should be. From there I booted the game up and found the display not working. This was due to the power connector not sitting right on the display. Once the game booted I observed the CPU controlled lights and found all were working. I then printed off the switch matrix and coil list and entered test mode to ensure everything was working.

    I found that I had installed the left and right pop bumper coils in the wrong assemblies. The easiest fix here was to simply get the soldering iron out and swap the wires over. It's much less hassle then removing two pop bumper assemblies to get the coils corrected. All other coils fired correctly.

    I found a switch on the shuttle ramp not working quite right - the head entry switch. This just needed some adjustment as the switch itself did register, but it was not sensitive enough when the ball passed through it. The two right lane switches registered fine when activated with my finger, but not when the ball passed over them. This was a simple adjustment also. That was the last issues to resolve. The game was now ready to play.











    The old playfield has done a fine job and held up well over the years (it's now 28 years old!).



    The BoP playfield swap was now complete. I played several games, observing behavior to see if any additional issues presented themselves. So far, the only thing I will do is adjust the position of the left return wire form as it's not quite central to the return lane. Otherwise, the game is holding up great so far. It plays differently now with the clear coated playfield and will take some adjusting. But it plays nicely, which is all important and makes all the work worth it!

    There were some further valuable lessons learned here that I can use to improve the process next time I decide to do a playfield swap. However, I feel as I did after my Pinbot playfield swap - I won't be rushing in to do another any time soon. It's a slow stop / start process, which I spread it out across a couple of weeks, allowing me to take my time. All up I would have spent close to 45 hours from the moment I started to the moment it was ready to play. I'm not quite done on my BoP just yet though, as there is one more task to complete on my beloved machine. New cabinet decals. This had been planned as a Christmas holidays project for me, but a hold up on the decal delivery looks like it will be pushed back until late January / early February. So there are still a couple more posts left for me to do on this machine - stay tuned
    Eschew the standard. Turn the paradigm upside down.

  7. #17
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    Bride of Pinbot (2.0)- Williams - 1991 - Repair & Service Log

    Still interested in you “old” Playfield. Machine looks fantastic


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by Jodannar; 7th January 2019 at 11:56 AM.

  8. #18
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    Towards the end of last year, family were asking what I wanted for my birthday. BoP decals was my reply. My big project for the Xmas break was indented to be the cabinet decals on my BoP.

    But due to some delivery difficulties, this didn't happen. Naturally though, the first day back at work, the decals parcel arrived!

    For months I knew it was going to be my end of year project and realised I had a decision to make - install new BoP decals or go with a 2.0 decal make over. After some deliberation on what I wanted to do, I went with 2.0 decals and also a 2.0 translite.

    A new set were ordered from retro refurbs which arrived yesterday. This weekend, work begins on the final phase of work on my 2.0








    @gum After our chat at the pinball meet last week about the BIOS settings not being retained, I had a look through my photos I took while doing the hard drive backup and noticed the BIOS battery appearing in one. See the lower right corner of the box. Mine is a gigabyte PC while yours is Zotac, but they shouldn't be too different internally and I'd expect to see a button battery like that in yours too. Try replacing that and see if it helps with the settings.

    Eschew the standard. Turn the paradigm upside down.

  9. #19
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    My Bride of Pinbot has received a lot of loving attention since I purchased it. Now, I'm facing the final mountain before I can say - It's complete!. Doing up the cabinet was always going to be one of the final two things to be done. It was a bit of a race to see if the final challenge would be the playfield or the cabinet, with the cabinet winning (or is it losing?) that race. The plan had always been to do it around late December last year or early January this year, but that got pushed back to February - and here we are! I spent quite a bit of time last year deciding what path to take with the new decals. Do I keep it original with new BoP decals from PPS? Or now that it's a 2.0 machine, go with 2.0 decals from Retro Refurbs. In the end, after much deliberation and weighing pros and cons, I went with a 2.0 make over. Some may hold back tears while proclaiming - "But it's not original anymore!". Meh. This is a 2.0 machine now. It will remain a 2.0 machine. I love 2.0. There are not many 2.0 machines in the world and very few that are done up in this manor. So new 2.0 decals were purchased to bring this cabinet back to life. Naturally they arrived the day I started back at work (after 4 weeks of leave), which means the process will take longer to get done. The decal set includes the head box, cabinet sides, coin door and a 2.0 translite. The art is heavily based on the original, but with a more modern look (and some 2.0 branding).





    Before starting on big tasks like this, I tend to put a lot of thought and planning in to the process. I've done decals on two other machines now and have a good idea of what's involved. Each time I've found things that work and where I could do better next time. I've started using a checklist phone app to help plan out big tasks like this as it lets me get my head around it all and have a clear plan before actually starting. Previously, I would write it all down in a notebook and cross things off as I went, which works - but the checklist app makes things easier since I can edit, shuffle, indent and group as new things come to mind and planning changes. I often have my phone with me, so can update while I'm out walking or at my desk to ensure the task isn't forgotten about. I like to try and break tasks down to much smaller tasks as it means I can keep doing small bits even on busy days where I only get small windows of free time. This allows momentum to continue when time is limited. This process also helps me identify any potential issues before they arise.



    With the planning done and a clear path to follow, it's time to kick off the final phase for my BoP 2.0's transformation. The first step is to get the headbox off the cabinet. I had all the connectors labeled from when I did the playfield swap recently, so that step was already complete. I went over each connector to confirm the label was still attached and then removed each one. A couple of the labels had fallen off, so these were replaced before disconnecting the connector. All power and display connectors were removed too and then fed down into the cabinet. The display panel was removed from the headbox and bolts attaching the headbox to the arms were undone. The headbox was then removed and set down.



    Next up was getting the playfield out of the cabinet. The wires were grouped together and the playfield carefully lifted out.



    Now it was time to remove various other pieces from the cabinet like the side rails, coin door, shooter rod, start button, flipper buttons and so on. The legs were also removed at this point too.



    The original artwork on the headbox is screen printed. I find it interesting they went with screen printing for the headbox but then used decals for the cabinet. I'm not sure what the reason for this is. There are various chips around the edges of the headbox to be repaired.





    The lower right rear corner of the headbox is the worst hit, with a nice chunk missing.



    The cabinet art is looking faded and tired. Got to love the black paint outlines where someone decided to brush paint the coin door without removing it...







    With my heat gun and scraper, I proceeded to remove the cabinet art from the front and side panels. A silhouette of the front panel art remained on the wood once the decal was removed.



    The process took longer than I expected, but finally the cabinet art was completely removed. The headbox GI door was removed, along with the components panel that houses all the boards and mini PC. The headbox was now ready for some sanding.



    There were two old and faded stickers on top of the headbox. Once removed you can see how much the colour has changed over the years.



    The headbox was completely sanded to remove the old artwork and now ready for some damage repair. Right about now is where it hits you that there is no going back. You're too far along to bail.



    Before patching the cabinet, I had to remove the left over goo. This process also took awhile, but finally it came off. The main damage to the cabinet that required repair was on the corners from the legs. There were a few small divots in the cabinet sides which needed to be filled too. These areas were bogged up and sanded.





    After sanding, the surfaces were then cleaned. The edges were spray painted with gloss black. I didn't bother painting everything as it's all going to be covered by decals anyway. The standard BoP headbox has black on the panels facing the player and purple on top and back. I decided to leave it all black since this is a 2.0 make over and the darker colours in the new artwork allow for it.



    After removing several of the metal parts from the cabinet, I dropped them off to be powder coated. I decided awhile back that I wanted to do something a bit fancier with this game and felt powder coating on some of the pieces would really enhance the presentation of the game. After seeing how affordable it was, I had no excuses not to do it. I ended up getting 10 pieces done in total - 4 legs, 2 side rails, 2 headbox arms, lockdown bar and shooter housing. A massive thanks to @Glenn70 for his help with this!





    Normally I spray the bolt heads with gloss black to freshen them up. But for this game, I wanted to do something different. I decided to go with purple, which I think will work well with the new artwork and also compliment the purple powder coating on the metal parts. The colour is a little darker than the powder coating, but I don't think it will matter as it still works well with the colours on the new decals. All bolts were sanded and cleaned before receiving two coats of gloss purple.



    Since I had the grills from the headbox and cabient removed for painting, I decided to use up left over chrome spray paint I had and freshen them up. The black channel that the display panel sits in was given a fresh coat of gloss black. I did have some thoughts about doing these in purple too, but felt it might be a bit too much.



    I allowed 7 days for the paint to cure on the headbox and cabinet before installing decals. Both headbox sides were done and the painted bolts installed. The purple bolts work well with the art.





    The new 2.0 decal set came with an updated translite as well. This was installed on to the glass. I plan to create a frame for the old translite as it will look great on the wall.



    New gliders were installed on the rear of the cabinet and the painted grills installed again too.



    Now to do the cabinet decals. I use the dry method for installing them, along with a second pair of hands (my lovely Wife) to help. The vinyl used by Retro Refurbs is good quality and really nice and easy to work with. The decals went on without a hitch. The front panel was done first, followed by the sides.





    After each decal was installed, the holes were cut out and edges trimmed. I use a really neat spring loaded ruler and cutting disc which made edge timming easy. Once the clear acrylic is lined up, you press down and small rubber feet prevent it from moving. I trim off about 1 - 2mm around the edge of the cabinet to help prevent the decal getting caught and pealing if something (or someone) brushes past it.



    Before installing the side rails, I decided to trim a section of the top decal where the double sided tape would stick to the cabinet. The decal will still sit around 1cm under the side rail, so won't look weird. This means the tape will stick directly to the cabinet and not the decal. The reason for doing this is so the rails can be removed in the future (if needed) without damaging the new decals. The double sided tape was purchased from Bunnings (Bear brand) and applied to the side rails.



    Happy with how the side rails would be sitting, they were then installed on both sides of the cabinet. The flipper buttons, start button and switches were also installed again.






    Aussie Arcade has an image limit per post, so I've had to split the final update in to two sections to get all the progress images in with the write up. Part 2 will be up shortly.
    Eschew the standard. Turn the paradigm upside down.

  10. #20
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    At this point, I decided to clamp the side rails for 24 hours to ensure the double sided tape took hold and would keep the side rails in place. The next day the clamps were removed and the lock down bar receiver and coin door installed. New decals were made up for the lockdown bar receiver (install 3 balls + caution). I'm holding off installing the shooter rod until the playfield is in. That way I can align it without risking damage to the front panel artwork. The headbox arms were installed back on to the cabinet, followed by the headbox. At this point the game was starting to take shape again and seeing results for all the hard work is really satisfying.



    The legs were also installed, with felt cabinet protectors and nylon washers to protect the cabinet and legs. New leg levelers were also installed.



    Next step was to hook up all the wires that I could from the cabinet and do a general tidy up of the wiring before getting the playfield back in. This included vacuuming the surface to remove anything loose. The playfield was then installed back into the cabinet. Now that the playfield was in, the shooter rod was rebuilt using the powder coated housing and installed back on to the cabinet and aligned correctly. All wiring for the playfield was connected back up in the headbox and the game was now ready to switch on and test.



    A last minute decision was made to install some mirror blades, which I think will improve the final result even more. A massive thanks to @FLAIMBOY for hooking me up with a set of his finest blades



    With everything now back in place, the transformation was complete and the game ready for testing. It's been a long road getting here, with the machine fully rebuilt, followed by a playfield swap and then finally a cabinet restore. Many, many hours of work have been poured in to the game - but it's well worth it as the result is something I'm VERY happy with. The new CPR plastic set I purchased 12 months ago came with a small desk stand, which I decided to place on top of the headbox as a topper. You'll have to forgive my finger in the top left corner on some photos - I didn't pick this up until resizing them for the write up.















    For comparison, this is how it looked on arrival (which was the first photo in the original post before I began any work).



    The game was put through some testing and a couple of issues needed to be looked at. These were intermittent things that had been around in some form for awhile, but became more constant after the playfield swap and cabinet restore. Given how intrusive those processes are, I'm feeling good that nothing else showed up. Both issues (one was a connector and the other the lock post) were sorted and the game playing well once again. At this point, my work on the Bride is done. I may return and do up the apron with some new paint and decals or add the chaser light mod to the shuttle ramp. We'll see. There aren't many BoP 2.0's in the world and very few looking like this - so for now, I'm happy
    Eschew the standard. Turn the paradigm upside down.


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