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Konami Incan Pyramid Hopper Disconnected Error


Snjspiteri

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Hi all my pokie machine that i use at home has come up with A Hopper Disconnect error and i cant get rid of it. The Hopper is powered up and green LED is lit. When i remove and replace still doesnt detect it there. I have connectivity all the way from hopper to board. Have replaced boards reseated plugs on board. Etc etc but nothing works. Tested power supply on boarfs all as they should be. Replaced cmos batteries on boards and reset bios as had batteries out and still no good. Tried everything i can think of but still error as in pic. Cant reset using reset key due to error. I did have a few seconds of joy after ha ing a good look at the game boards and fiddling around abit. Once replaced and booted up error went and allowed me to reset and play for a few spins but the error appeared again while playing and no good since?

 

 

Please help any ideas appreciated? As it seems to be a board issue!

IMG_2591.JPGIMG_2595.JPGIMG_2596.JPGIMG_2597.JPG

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I'm guessing you don't have another machine of the same type you can do a board/hopper swap on so you can isolate if it's definitely board or hopper problem? Also this fiddling around a bit that gave some limited success, can we get some specifics as this might help point in a direction.
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I'm guessing you don't have another machine of the same type you can do a board/hopper swap on so you can isolate if it's definitely board or hopper problem? Also this fiddling around a bit that gave some limited success, can we get some specifics as this might help point in a direction.

 

Unfortunately no such luck when it comes to another machine. With regards to the fiddling, I can't really narrow it down to what I did? Just was cleaning the board Anita and looking to make sure there was anything visible wrong with the boards. Going to try and test to see if I have connectivity either side of the hopper plugs as they are a little loose and even though green led lights when hopper inserted maybe other slots might not be touching?? Even though I cleaned and widened the connectors to make sure??

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Yeah a meter check on end to end would be ideal but understand that can be a major pain in pokie machines. If it was just playing around with the boards then there is a reasonable chance of some sort of joint problem. I've only really played around with much older machines so not exactly an expert here. I'm assuming there isn't a coin stuck somewhere weird.

 

Also on the older machines I've worked on you can actually remove the hopper and it will just dump coins into the coin box (or whatever the proper term is the overflow box that the machine sits on. Worth a shot. It's possible there might be a config option related to that.

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Hi all so wanted to run this by you. So the lights on the machine buttons some work and some don't as a long while back while changing the globe one shorted I think. While testing for the hopper problem I started testing the globe problem again. Now all power voltages on the logic boards are as they should be and also at the button globes. However I have found that some of the grounds are not registering and that's why some of the lights don't work. No I tested connectivity on them from globe to board plug and just like the hopper all tested as normal. So this shows me that for some reason the board is failing to ground some of the wires? Now to fix this I am going to splice to a good tested ground to fix the light problem. This is the long winded question ha ha ha good this be the same problem with the hopper? Should I splice the hopper ground to a known good ground on the logic board to see if that makes the hopper work?
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So what your saying is, with the lights the ground wires (the ones that jump from light to light in a chain) measure ok to the board connector but don't have a connection to a known ground point when the board is connected?

 

I'm starting to wonder if there might be a problem with the board not connecting to the back plane properly. If you take the boards out does the back plane look bent? or do the connectors have any damage?

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So what your saying is, with the lights the ground wires (the ones that jump from light to light in a chain) measure ok to the board connector but don't have a connection to a known ground point when the board is connected?

 

I'm starting to wonder if there might be a problem with the board not connecting to the back plane properly. If you take the boards out does the back plane look bent? or do the connectors have any damage?

 

The light grounds are not all chained for some reason there are about 6 that run back to the same plug at the board end and their connectivity all measure as good with a multimeter. However when testing for voltage the working lights ground are testing good but the non working fail test but pass test if the multimeter is connected to a known good ground source such as on the working light.

 

The logic gin box is very narrow and tight to get into. The 2 boards that you can remove look fairly clean and can't see any burnt spots or problems. However the board that is fixed to the back plate and that all the wires plug into is very hard to assess? I think I am going to have to take the whole thing out and apart to assess for any damage on this board?

 

However to to avoid this my question is can I try splicing the non working wires to a known good working ground source not only to get all the lights working but to maybe fix the problem of the non registering hopper? Or will this create greater problems?

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The light grounds are not all chained for some reason there are about 6 that run back to the same plug at the board end and their connectivity all measure as good with a multimeter. However when testing for voltage the working lights ground are testing good but the non working fail test but pass test if the multimeter is connected to a known good ground source such as on the working light.

 

The logic gin box is very narrow and tight to get into. The 2 boards that you can remove look fairly clean and can't see any burnt spots or problems. However the board that is fixed to the back plate and that all the wires plug into is very hard to assess? I think I am going to have to take the whole thing out and apart to assess for any damage on this board?

 

However to to avoid this my question is can I try splicing the non working wires to a known good working ground source not only to get all the lights working but to maybe fix the problem of the non registering hopper? Or will this create greater problems?

Fat chances of getting rid of the error due to a chip being removed...;)

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The light grounds are not all chained for some reason there are about 6 that run back to the same plug at the board end and their connectivity all measure as good with a multimeter. However when testing for voltage the working lights ground are testing good but the non working fail test but pass test if the multimeter is connected to a known good ground source such as on the working light.

 

The logic gin box is very narrow and tight to get into. The 2 boards that you can remove look fairly clean and can't see any burnt spots or problems. However the board that is fixed to the back plate and that all the wires plug into is very hard to assess? I think I am going to have to take the whole thing out and apart to assess for any damage on this board?

 

However to to avoid this my question is can I try splicing the non working wires to a known good working ground source not only to get all the lights working but to maybe fix the problem of the non registering hopper? Or will this create greater problems?

 

If they lights aren't chained together its possible they don't have a common ground. I've not worked with these particular machines before. The issue you've got is, unless you are certain a ground wire is actually a ground wire, there's a good chance of blowing something up if you tie a line you though was ground to ground when in fact it wasn't. You'll probably need to have someone look at it or at least someone on here with a working knowledge of those machines to help.

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Hey, just thought I'd mention I went up to my old mans place this weekend. Anyway turns out he has an Konami ES500, which I think is the same system you've got, although its a different cabinet type to yours (one of the full upright ones). Its hopper looks completely different to yours, but I thought i'd have a look anyway to see if I could learn more about how it works. Anyway, on the back plane there is a connector marked CNB11 its a 10 pin connector. If fiddling around with the boards made it come back momentarily its possible its just loose.

 

Looks like this (i've disconnected the cable so its easier to see the connector)

IMG_1593.jpg

 

I can confirm pin 2 should be ground.

 

Anyway I pulled open the hopper to see what we could be dealing with and if it was a simple case of wires for the motor, coin output sensor and hopper full sensor. Turns out its not as simple as that. This hopper has a PIC processor in it. Basically these are programmable chips and it looks like the ES500 communicates to the pic chip and the pic chip does all the work. What this means is this is going to be a little difficult to diagnose without a scope.

 

Having said that your hopper looks different and might work differently. Might be helpful if you could pull the hopper out and take pictures of it and its connector, note down any model number or manufacturer. If you know anyone else with a machine thats the same (or at least has the same hopper), see if you can borrow their hopper, as then we would know if its the hopper or something else.

 

The hopper i'm looking at is a "Money Controls Universal Hopper, MK4".

 

Also another question, have you done a RAM reset at some stage? Because if you have there may be hopper type settings in there that could potentially cause an issue.

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Hey, just thought I'd mention I went up to my old mans place this weekend. Anyway turns out he has an Konami ES500, which I think is the same system you've got, although its a different cabinet type to yours (one of the full upright ones). Its hopper looks completely different to yours, but I thought i'd have a look anyway to see if I could learn more about how it works. Anyway, on the back plane there is a connector marked CNB11 its a 10 pin connector. If fiddling around with the boards made it come back momentarily its possible its just loose.

 

Looks like this (i've disconnected the cable so its easier to see the connector)

[ATTACH=CONFIG]114349[/ATTACH]

 

I can confirm pin 2 should be ground.

 

Anyway I pulled open the hopper to see what we could be dealing with and if it was a simple case of wires for the motor, coin output sensor and hopper full sensor. Turns out its not as simple as that. This hopper has a PIC processor in it. Basically these are programmable chips and it looks like the ES500 communicates to the pic chip and the pic chip does all the work. What this means is this is going to be a little difficult to diagnose without a scope.

 

Having said that your hopper looks different and might work differently. Might be helpful if you could pull the hopper out and take pictures of it and its connector, note down any model number or manufacturer. If you know anyone else with a machine thats the same (or at least has the same hopper), see if you can borrow their hopper, as then we would know if its the hopper or something else.

 

The hopper i'm looking at is a "Money Controls Universal Hopper, MK4".

 

Also another question, have you done a RAM reset at some stage? Because if you have there may be hopper type settings in there that could potentially cause an issue.

Thanks mate for all your help. I think I have conceded that I will have to run the machine without the hopper. The only way to do this is to do a ram reset which I did but didn't fix the problem but this allowed me to turn the hopper option off. So now the machine runs as it should but no hopper spitting out coins. Any collect just shows up on screen and then can be reset with key and play can continue. Sad from my need as not as should be but this issue is beyond my means. The pic of your fathers machine looks exactly like my boards so can confirm that. And yes in my hopper there is a white box which wire are plugged into and inside the box are a few electronics. Checked for any visible damage and tested connectivity and all looks as it should. Unfortunately without having anyone I know with the same hopper I am stuck to playing without it for now unless someone with greater means than me can come past and take a look. Thx Joe

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