Ideas On How To Create Accurate Insert Holes.

Any ideas on how to do playfield insert holes for inserts on a HomeBrew?.

 

I want to use a range of inserts, not just round ones including some like these...

 

http://shop.mrpinball.com.au/product-category/parts-playfieldplayfield-inserts/

 

I do have a Makita trimmer which is like a small router but limited to a 1/4" spindle size, probably the ideal tool.

 

I'm thinking making a collection of metal cutouts for the different insert styles that will guide the router tip to form the shapes accurately but I'm really open to suggestions.

 

Not a job I have had to do before.

Any ideas on how to do playfield insert holes for inserts on a HomeBrew?.

 

I want to use a range of inserts, not just round ones including some like these...

 

http://shop.mrpinball.com.au/product-category/parts-playfieldplayfield-inserts/

 

I do have a Makita trimmer which is like a small router but limited to a 1/4" spindle size, probably the ideal tool.

 

I'm thinking making a collection of metal cutouts for the different insert styles that will guide the router tip to form the shapes accurately but I'm really open to suggestions.

 

Not a job I have had to do before.

 

I think best way is to design the playfield, draw it up on cadcam and get a guy with a cnc router to cut it out. That way you should get the inserts correct if you originally draw them up right

given you're only doing a few. trace it on, start it with a drill then maybe a dremel? and probably hand finish it with a file. overall slowly slowly by hand

I have put a little thought into this I what I was thinking was to get a set of plates laser cut the right size then clamp them to the PF and use a trim router with a copy bit.

or you could make a jig that clamps to the PF and is basically an edge for the outside of the router

Buy a small 1/4" router and make a template for each type of insert

Then you clamp the template on the playfield and use the router to cut the hole

You will also need a router tool that is the correct diameter to create the correct radii in the insert pockets

The template will be a lot bigger than the hole obviously so accuracy on the template is not super critical but the better you make it the better the insert hole

For example if you are using a router with a 100mm base and the router bit you are using is 10mm, to cut a diameter 20 hole you need a template with a diameter of 110

Well, a bit of research and these seem to be the way to go for the round insert holes.

 

Forstner bits...

 

 

You make the first partial hole the size of the insert and follow with a smaller hole for the light to come through.

 

This process leaves a shoulder for the insert to sit on and the tip of the tool leaves an indent to align the second smaller tool to.

 

As for the non circular inserts

For creating a non-circular insert, use a router with a template and Bushing guide - a router bit with a small roller bearing on it runs along your guide, while the cutting head runs in the playfield to cut the hole to the size of the template. Creating the template is the hard part, but once you have that, it is relatively easy to route multiple holes for the inserts.

 

Well that seems like what I would have said and a few of you suggested however, I'm thinking I'll add a piece of sheet metal to the templet that the router/ trimmer can slide over easily and it would also allow for easier clamping of the templet using the attached sheet metal.

 

I do have a "bushing guide" that came with the trimmer but it really needs a templet about 3/16" thick to work well.

 

Maybe a piece of 5mm X 40mm X at least the width of the playfield with the insert templet holes cut in the middle?

 

I could then add other pieces of 5mm X 40 flat either side of the piece with the insert templet holes so the trimmer/ router stays flat.

 

Would be nice to have the insert holes lazer cut in the 5mm. Who has access to a lazer cutter for doing this sort of work?

 

I could drill and file the holes but hell, that is a big job and I doubt I could do the job as good as a lazer cutter.

I wouldn't use those

They are ok for mdf but if you use them on plywood you will get chips

Maybe ok for roughing only

I would push one of them right through then use a router bit to mill the hole with a template

Be careful on the grain and don't push too hard

Just had another thought

You might be able to get away with one of those cutters if you put a sacrificial piece of timber on top to stop chipping

Just had another thought

You might be able to get away with one of those cutters if you put a sacrificial piece of timber on top to stop chipping

 

I'm thinking just use the router with the templet just like the non round holes. My trimmer spins at 22,000Rpm no load and that makes for a lovely smooth hole.

 

Using a router tip like this one with a bearing at the router end and the bearing goes around the inside of the templet hole.

 

http://www.precisionbits.com/images/thumbnails/800/800/detailed/18/953063ea-715d-4888-bbf8-2eb826b66531.jpg

 

Problem seems to be getting a tip that is only about 6mm. Most of this style seem to be 1/2 and larger.

 

Shame because then I could of just used pieces of an old playfield as the templet so now it looks like I will need to make custom larger than needed templet holes to allow for the bearings larger size.

Larger template holes are not such a bad thing because it increases the accuracy

It's how a lot of molds were made in the old days, making a large template or model and using a reducing pantograph to cut the correct size

agree with boots, While Forstner bits make a pretty good hole You wouldn't rely on them being accurate size hole.

So I would do as other have suggested and get a template hole for a jig and router it out.

 

Id personally use a bit with the bearing on the bottom and have the template on the bottom for the main hole, You have better control with the cut that way.

Then use the one with the bearing on top for the shoulder. I hate using that style bit with the bearing on top to cut out a complete hole, I only ever use them for routing out holes that dont go all the way through the timber.

 

so you would need two templates one for the hole that goes all the way through and one for the shoulder, I wouldn't do it any other way if I was doing it

Don't.

Use 11mm ply ,cut the shapes you want and then put a layer of 2 mm perspex over all your cutouts.

Diffusers can still be mounted under the perspex.

Gives you a guaranteed flat surface. I have done two machines this way and will never go back to cutting in inserts.

Don't.

Use 11mm ply ,cut the shapes you want and then put a layer of 2 mm perspex over all your cutouts.

Diffusers can still be mounted under the perspex.

Gives you a guaranteed flat surface. I have done two machines this way and will never go back to cutting in inserts.

 

I wouldn't have picked your machines at PinFest to be any different to a normal pin so that is testament to what you say.

 

No need to clearcoat either. How do you go cutting the rollover wire slots and mech holes on the perspex?.

A blunt drill and an agitating blade .

With the drill bit grind off the screw section which will want to grab upon penetration ( I feel dirty ).

A blunt drill and an agitating blade .

With the drill bit grind off the screw section which will want to grab upon penetration ( I feel dirty ).

I was taught to use a drill with the cutting edge removed for drilling perspex. I just use a fine file to knock the edge off. I'm glad I'm using the Kress approved method.

 

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Don't.

Use 11mm ply ,cut the shapes you want and then put a layer of 2 mm perspex over all your cutouts.

Diffusers can still be mounted under the perspex.

Gives you a guaranteed flat surface. I have done two machines this way and will never go back to cutting in inserts.

 

I was planning to use this approach too, and stick a vinyl print to the bottom of the acrylic. My major concern is that acrylic is so fragile. How is the 2mm acrylic holding up? Is it strong enough not to break?

Is it not better to use thicker material like 3mm or even 5mm like some commercial pinball uses?

i would not put the vinyl underneath ?

The perspex is glued down with construction clear silicon (which takes some the shock and stiffens up the playfield) then the vinyl.

Theres heaps of air balls on thhgttg no sign of any damage.

i think you need the 11mm ply as some playfield parts screw in from below.

i would not put the vinyl underneath ?

The perspex is glued down with construction clear silicon (which takes some the shock and stiffens up the playfield) then the vinyl.

Theres heaps of air balls on thhgttg no sign of any damage.

i think you need the 11mm ply as some playfield parts screw in from below.

 

So is the layer set out like this:

11mm Ply

2mm perspex

Vinyl artwork

Top Layer Acrylic (2mm)

 

Giving a total depth of 15mm playfield thickness ?

So is the layer set out like this:

11mm Ply

2mm perspex

Vinyl artwork

Top Layer Acrylic (2mm)

 

Giving a total depth of 15mm playfield thickness ?

 

As much as I like the perspex idea I'm thinking no. I like using Teenuts and not always with the teenut under the playfield. Sometimes for attaching large parts to the underside of the playfield as well.

So is the layer set out like this:

11mm Ply

2mm perspex

Vinyl artwork

Top Layer Acrylic (2mm)

 

Giving a total depth of 15mm playfield thickness ?

 

11mm Ply

2mm perspex

Vinyl artwork

* delete (Top Layer Acrylic (2mm))

Why does everyone want a layer of perspex on top? :unsureit scratches too easily.

You'd need to seal the perspex:confused:.

It might interest all to know how TAG is done @homepin ,Mike ?

 

As for T nuts you just remove a circle of perspex ( I'd assume its out of site and the ball is not rolling on it ?:huh: )

 

At this point i think we should return too how to accurately cut inserts into a playfield.

At this point i think we should return too how to accurately cut inserts into a playfield.[/b][/i]

 

Well Santa has me sorted for insert holes I think...

 

One of these...

 

 

One of these...

 

 

And a couple of these but assorted sizes...

 

 

I'll take the time to make some suitable metal insert guides to aid the router tips rather than trying to route out the inserts freehand as I think the time it takes to make the guides will save in the long run.

 

Now I just need a sample of the different inserts I'm interested in using and I can get underway.

 

Anyone have any old inserts they can part with?. I already have most but I have none like these...

 

http://shop.mrpinball.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/02009500_2899800-228x151.jpg

 

http://www.pinball.center/media/image/image_63028_1.jpg

 

http://beta.papa.tv/wp-content/uploads/59836-i.jpg

 

I'll be using coloured inserts because I honestly think the colour of the inserts adds to the art of the machine's paintwork.

 

Personally I think clear inserts, while it may be good to have multi colour LEDs enabling colour change, it can make the machine a bit bland but I'm pretty old school playfield art wise.