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Help identifying monitor and chassis


Mick80

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Hey all,

 

Just trying to identify my monitor and chassis so I can look for spares/learn a bit more about them.

 

It's my first arcade- an LAI dedicated SF2 that formerly housed AVP. I believe that the crt is 25". The only identifier on the chassis I can see is a Japanese sticker on the front (will upload a photo) that says 'Rainbow'.

 

The monitor chassis needs a service according to the previous owner but the game is still playable. I'd like to keep it that way by having another spare. A Jomac universal chassis also came with it.

 

Thanks for any help

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I haven't removed the bezel or glass to check but the monitor and neck have Panasonic Japan markings.

 

I'll post some more pics of the chassis sticker. Obviously I need to learn the difference between Chinese and Japanese letters.

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It definitely looks like a cheap Chinese Wei-Ya style or Wei-Ya knock off. The dead giveaway with these shitty chassis is the fact that there are so few components on the board. They always look far more simple than the better chassis available. I had one that looked very similar and it did not last long before an unceremonious death. Do you have pics of the game running? I'd be interested to see what kind of quality image you get out of it. Most of the time, these chassis deliver a pretty poor image with heaps of problems with edge compression or stretching, but it is all dependant on the tube it is matched with. I have seen some matched well with a tube that do actually produce a decent image.
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I'll definitely get in touch with Jomac to see if it's worth replacing, once I remove the neck board and find out some info as per above. Thanks.

 

The gameplay is doable but not comfortable (in saying that I haven't played with any of the settings as I don't know what I'm doing). It's a bit blue and the edges are not great. I'll post up some pics when I get home.

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The blue is adjustable via the blue gain and cut off pots. That's easy. The edges are somewhat adjustable if there is a pin-cushion adjustment, but oftentimes the edges are so bad on cheap chassis/tube combos that there's not a whole lot you can do.

 

Thanks. There is a pin cushion adjustment knob.

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Thanks. There is a pin cushion adjustment knob.

 

Cool, that's a good start, as some chassis do not have this. Post up some photos of the image and myself and heaps of others will be able to give you advice on how to best adjust it to look good. Take into account that you need to be careful when adjusting these. You are poking your hands around some very high voltages that go to the tube.

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Wow ...plenty expert on Aa...lol

 

Yes, in fact there are plenty of people willing to help someone learn how to properly adjust a monitor. That's what this place is about, helping people learn how to get the best out of the machines they own. Not sure why you would find that amusing.

 

To the OP, just get those pictures and we'll see what it looks like, that's always the first step.

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Cool, that's a good start, as some chassis do not have this. Post up some photos of the image and myself and heaps of others will be able to give you advice on how to best adjust it to look good. Take into account that you need to be careful when adjusting these. You are poking your hands around some very high voltages that go to the tube.

 

Thanks heaps. Yes I was quite hesitant to stick my hands in there!

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Yes, in fact there are plenty of people willing to help someone learn how to properly adjust a monitor. That's what this place is about, helping people learn how to get the best out of the machines they own. Not sure why you would find that amusing.

 

To the OP, just get those pictures and we'll see what it looks like, that's always the first step.

Your the man

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Pictures of the front of the chassis with the manufacturer's sticker (which I thought was Japanese!)

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

It had only been on for a few minutes when I took these shots- not sure if they get better when they warm up?

 

Apart from seeming overly blue there are some rows on the screen that flicker and shift sideways.

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Wow, ok, there are quite a few issues there, a degauss is certainly in order, but it also looks like the brightness/screen adjustment on the flyback is overdriven, which is causing that washed out look. The funny graphics bending at the bottom could be a Horizontal hold issue, but in most cases, that presents itself at the top of the image, not the bottom.

 

There is way too much blue, which is causing the blue bleed you can see around the edges of sprites.

 

Basically, you MAY be about to make some small adjustments to clean this up a bit, but without seeing it in person and adjusting it myself, there's not a whole lot I can suggest. The chassis is bad, really bad. My steps would be as follows.

 

1) Bring up the grid pattern on the test mode of the game.

 

2) Turn down the screen adjustment on the flyback and balance the brightness pot to make the blacks black, with no bright lines.

 

3) Adjust the horizontal hold in tiny, tiny increments and see if that cleans up the image skewing.

 

4) Adjust the pincushion to see if you can fix that right edge. However, the left edge does not look as bad, and adjusting the pincushion will effect both edges.

 

5) Bring up the colour test bars and adjust the RGB gains to see if you can balance the colours.

 

All of this is not super difficult, but it's still difficult enough that you should be careful and only adjust in small increments, always knowing the place where you can return the pots back to where they were. Also, these pots are not made for lots of adjustment. If you adjust them too often, the plastic heads can actually snap off the metal potentiometer base, which means you need to solder on new pots.

 

To be honest, I don't like your odds here. That chassis does not look good and the picture it is producing is very sub-par. I expect it is a 'universal' chassis that has been installed when the original chassis died. I have never seen a chassis badged as 'Rainbow' before, but there are so many Chinese clones, it could be anything. I don't have a lot of experience with Chinese chassis as I do my best to avoid them.

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Thanks mate- that's a lot of good info but I suspect you and others are right in that it's just a shit chassis. I'll identify the number of pins and impedence and see what jomac can suggest to replace it. It did come with one of his universal chassis (a 'Sharp Image') as well which is meant to be new in the box.

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

Wow, ok, there are quite a few issues there, a degauss is certainly in order, but it also looks like the brightness/screen adjustment on the flyback is overdriven, which is causing that washed out look. The funny graphics bending at the bottom could be a Horizontal hold issue, but in most cases, that presents itself at the top of the image, not the bottom.

 

There is way too much blue, which is causing the blue bleed you can see around the edges of sprites.

 

Basically, you MAY be about to make some small adjustments to clean this up a bit, but without seeing it in person and adjusting it myself, there's not a whole lot I can suggest. The chassis is bad, really bad. My steps would be as follows.

 

1) Bring up the grid pattern on the test mode of the game.

 

2) Turn down the screen adjustment on the flyback and balance the brightness pot to make the blacks black, with no bright lines.

 

3) Adjust the horizontal hold in tiny, tiny increments and see if that cleans up the image skewing.

 

4) Adjust the pincushion to see if you can fix that right edge. However, the left edge does not look as bad, and adjusting the pincushion will effect both edges.

 

5) Bring up the colour test bars and adjust the RGB gains to see if you can balance the colours.

 

All of this is not super difficult, but it's still difficult enough that you should be careful and only adjust in small increments, always knowing the place where you can return the pots back to where they were. Also, these pots are not made for lots of adjustment. If you adjust them too often, the plastic heads can actually snap off the metal potentiometer base, which means you need to solder on new pots.

 

To be honest, I don't like your odds here. That chassis does not look good and the picture it is producing is very sub-par. I expect it is a 'universal' chassis that has been installed when the original chassis died. I have never seen a chassis badged as 'Rainbow' before, but there are so many Chinese clones, it could be anything. I don't have a lot of experience with Chinese chassis as I do my best to avoid them.

 

Just on those suggestions: should I attempt them in that order with the degauss first?

 

Thanks again.

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Those Sharp Image chassis are bloody amazing. The picture they produce on a good tube is as good as any Nanao chassis I have seen. I have multiple Nanao chassis and also multiple Sharp Image chassis and the Sharp Image chassis are bloody beautiful. This of course is heavily dependant on the tube itself. If your tube is tired and shit, no chassis will do it any good.

 

The order you attempt those adjustments in doesn't really matter, aside from turning down the washed out brightness first. However, you will find that when you turn down the brightness and get your blacks looking black, the rest of the image will likely be very faded. Almost every one of these cheap chassis I see in a machine has the brightness way overdriven just so you can get a half decent image, it's really common.

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