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Tiger Rag Journey from non working to working


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Just making note that @thegrunta666 gave me the mpu board after getting it to flicker then 2 flashes then it would continue flashing, group effort :023:

What had happened that was frustrating was when I replaced the chips in the board I couldn't get a flicker.

It turned out that whilst I was washing/brushing down the board I had broken the top leg of Q1.

Solenoid driver board next, looks nice and original, will get the usual makeover.

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Got the okay to go with using a 1 Farad 5.5VDC super cap to hold settings etc. No big deal but just putting this out there in case it helps someone. Bought it from Jaycar for $5.95. Tested cap first just to ensure the negative and positive were correct. There was no voltage reading on my multimeter, as expected as it is new. I used some 1-2mm double sided tape to hold it to the board. I use a large paper clip to hold small objects for tinning. On one end of each wire to be joined to the board I double it over to make up for the size of the hole. After it was soldered in I connected up my external power supply to charge up the capacitor, took about 5 minutes. Left it for a while and checked the voltage. Holding charge. Then tested all dip switches for continuity when on and none for when off, all tested fine and kept in original (as I got it) position. The board is jumpered to suit Six Million Dollar Man & Lost World. After checking dip switches tried one more power up and.....nothing, not a flicker, what have I done? This is not good. Start checking for 5VDC and 12VDC and nothing, hmmm.......check the power supply, maybe I killed it? Turned out to be a bad connection on the ground plug on the banana clip. By rule whenever I buy or make these I solder the wire to the plug because I have found from new they are crap. I had soldered the 5 & 12 but not the ground so that fixed I connected it up and flicker followed by six flashes.

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this will be no big deal to most but I just set up a you tube account, as I don't have one, and am using the Tiger Rag MPU LED 7 flash sequence as a test.

If anyone notices any issues like privacy stuff, quality, suggestions, anything, please let me know via PM so as to not spoil the thread. Thanks.

Tried following advice in the uploading video thread.

 

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Thought I'd post up some pictures of underneath the playfield whilst having a beer on a pleasant Sunday.

The fellas will be here with the board so I will update how that went later. Fingers crossed.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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The Tiger is off the sick bed. Visited @Rich today to drop some electronic bits to fix up the Tiger Rag. He has done a great job so far on the MPU and now the power supply. So now the Tiger fires up and goes into attract mode. New problem we have found is the MPU is not sending the info to the solenoid driver to fire the solenoids. So now @Rich has some more checking to do on the MPU to see why we are not getting anything out on the address BUS. Its good to see the Tiger on its way to recovery !
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the following is just an update....personally, starting on a non working pin I like to start at the 240V plug.

the original got replaced

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but I didn't take a pic of the new one.

this original one was using an adapter.

next I went to the line filter and MOV, all good.

whilst doing some tests at @Budgie 's house the 5V on the solenoid driver was down and no flashes on the MPU.

the pin was dropped the next morning.

as you can see whilst pulling out the power supply the original Bally sound edge connector was tucked behind the sound board

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the power supply has a drawback regarding removal, the 20 wires at the top.

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it was decided to make it easier for removal by fitting male/female plugs, supplied by @thegrunta666

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no stopping here, all the diodes were changed and correct fuses fitted, you can just make the 4A fuse for the displays which should be a 3/4A/750ma along with the AC power which should have been a 3A. You can just make out the amperage on the fuse using my shit phone camera.

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you can see the original Bally mounting bracket used also.

fresh heat sink compound added

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the transformer had it's AC power wires soldered up for 220V input, this was changed to 240V.

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this was also found underneath

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kept this and used PVA glue and put it on top.

hooked up a variac to the tabs on the transformer and all good, nice strong readings.

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also whilst the power supply was out I removed all the transformer wires that connected to the screw mounted plugs and stripped back a small amount of sheathing so as to double over the wire and then applied a small amount of solder. I did this because for a better connection and as you tighten the screw down the solder compresses and in turn makes it more secure as the solder is raised behind the screw. The original wires weren't in great shape which is to be expected.

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The solenoid driver board was next, thanks to @thegrunta666 for supplying a new 5V reg (LM323K) and has been fitted, the original showed readings of AC present and upon testing out of circuit the readings were evident it needed replacing.

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forgot to take pic of it installed, pretty boring really, caps just arrived so will update later. 5V cap ground mod done, TP1 joined to TP3.

I fired her up to find no solenoids working, after putting boards back in of course.

Ran through self test, nothing. No sound/s either.

Grunta came around and pointed out an address line failure.

I removed U11 (6821) and noticed that even in the short time the chip had been sitting in the socket there was small amounts of green deposit on two of the legs. This can't be good and the pictures speak for themselves. The old socket was removed and fortunately none of the solder pads came off, actually some of the pins when pulled out came out with the solder and left exposed copper. I cleaned up the pads removing the remaining solder with a cheap hobby/craft knife.

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Put the board back in, fired her up and yay, solenoids all good. Checking the edge connectors I noticed a couple of pins with poor tension so they were replaced, crimped and soldered.

Why solder when you have a proper crimper and it is done correctly, this you will see later.

It's just something I do and isn't for everyone and I'm not saying you need to do it.

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A couple of pics, may not seem very interesting, but very satisfying and it's now alive but with more issues.

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The last pic is of a new display so there's some work to be done on all the others.

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

This is what the displays look like running through test mode, then the units disappear.

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yeah @thegrunta666, have a chat on the displays.......this sounds like code for have a beer wink.gif don't be a stranger @Budgie

 

the units on the displays was buggin' me heaps because when I first fired her up it was there. Pulled out the MPU and re-flowed all edge connectors and checked J1 with multi-meter for continuity and resistance. All tested good. As you can see the displays have other issues but thought I would sort out the units first. Changed the six 1/4 watt 100K HV resistors for 1/2 watt ones and re-flowed the edged connector. Surely all the digit drivers aren't out, but it's not impossible. As J2 on the MPU was fine I went to the edge connectors for the displays. I removed all the displays and started with Player 1 as the other displays 'daisy chain' from here. All the pins inside the edge connectors looked great, clean with plenty of tension. Why all of a sudden were the units there then never to be seen again? I checked the HV which was at 180VDC and the 5VDC was fluctuating, not fussed at this stage about that but will sort it out. It wasn't until I started removing and inspecting/testing each wire. The units is a black wire and the second one in. The pin is fine, the crimping looks fine, WTF is going on? This is why I mentioned earlier about soldering after crimping, but it still may not have helped as the crimp is so tight. What has happened is, as they are daisy chained most of the 1 player pins have two wires crimped together. The daisy chained one is making good connection but the supply one has been almost severed. When I bent the wire slightly to one direction on came the units, let it go and off they went. I will be replacing all the doubled up pins 1 player pins and soldering them. The original crimping looks fine but to put two wires into a pin that isn't made for it it's not hard to see why it failed.

 

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Edited by Rich
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small update on the solenoid driver board, the 3 electrolytic caps changed, even after tall the years the original caps weren't too bad.

I thought this was it for the board and nothing more needed doing. But I was wrong.

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Tiger Rag from the start had this strobing effect in the all the displays and thought it may have been something Bell's Games introduced to make it a little different but the count/digit display was all messed up. All the displays are known good, the MPU is all good, the solenoid driver has been done (not) so what is going on? I tried another MPU board, same thing, another new display, same thing, test points all good, this was bugging me but there was only one other place that could be causing this......as soon as I put a little pressure sideways on the J3 connector on the solenoid driver board, up came a clear clean read out. I had forgotten to re-flow the edge connector.

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I have a bell games pinball as well, Space hawks

 

nice job guys

 

and great job on the board work @Rich

 

dont know if this helps in anyway? http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/3621/1986_Space_Hawks_Manual.pdf

 

or http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/3026/1987_Cobra_Schematics_paginated.pdf

 

or http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/3114/Nuova_Bell_Games_Future_Queen_Installation_Instructions.pdf

 

these are for different bell games pins but might be usefull

Edited by jason1
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sorry fellas, I had the setting on private, have edited it so hopefully you can see the vids.

having just set up a you tube account I am still learning, thanks for the heads up.

another update.....well the playfield is stripped and whilst all was going well I came across the mylar disc for the RH pop bumper and also notice that the others weren't too good.

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The next step was a risk as the playfield is really in good condition considering it's age, IMO, but I wasn't happy with the lifting and I wanted to replace them, but, a big but, if any of the paint comes off with it I will have a c*nt of a time. I remember reading a Garfield cartoon where he says "no guts, no glory" probably about to give Odie a hard time, not that it takes real guts but it isn't my machine and I didn't want to have to say "oh sorry, but I fu*ked your playfield". I thought I would start with one, I just couldn't leave it alone. It was a warm day which helped and I used a....they have a proper name but I'll call it a plastic screwdriver for now, cant be bothered going to look at the packet in the garage, and a bottle of DE-Solv-it

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bought from Bunnings.

bit by bit I slowly squirted some on then gently pushing and prying between the mylar and the playfield.

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I was happy with the final result, one down, two to go.

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- - - Updated - - -

 

Is it just me that the videos are unavailable?

no it's not you @femto, it's me, a noob to you tube.

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I've seen a lot of those bumper plastics, the stick on ones, deforming through heat, age or what ever and forcing the bumper skirt up jamming on the bumper and cooking the coil.

 

This seems to happen over time and only happens on Williams and Bally pins.

 

It can't happen on Gottliebs as they don't use the stick on type. It just floats on the playfield.

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My bad for not taking any pics of the front of her before a tidy up. Thinners to remove the dried up goo on the door then door and four surround plates removed and used sanding block with some wet and dry, used wet with water to give an even finish. Bolts vortex wheeled (rotary polishing wheel) rust primed and painted. Lock bar bracket removed, pulled apart, sanded to remove rust and same treatment as bolts. The drawback to painting the lock bar bracket is when the playfield locating brackets go in and out the paint will most likely scratch off. I will just be careful :) The ball plunger and surround got some attention too.

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