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Through-Beam Sensor Info Needed


Kaizen

Question

I have this sensor that is on my Chase HQ DX, it's located on the right rear corner of the cab and it's mounted to an extension plate.

I'm missing the extension plate on the left hand side and from what I can work out there should be one on each corner on the left hand side as well.

There doesn't seem to be on on the right front side.

 

http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/Kaizen088/Chase%20HQ%20DX%20Motion/20170501_100251_zpsgwihfmoo.jpg

 

http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/Kaizen088/Chase%20HQ%20DX%20Motion/image_zpsbygism9a.jpg

 

http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/Kaizen088/Chase%20HQ%20DX%20Motion/tumblr_n9j731Edg61tzwbf7o1_500_zps5fp5ceem.png

 

 

I've Googled these and came up with enough info to tell me what they are but that's about it.

I'd like to know if someone has seen a similar arrangement in a Taito or any arcade cab.

From what I understand they are 'Dark State' and don't need a reflector.

I still have to track the wiring back but any basic info about how these work would be great.

The game seems to run okay without them in upright mode but I want to make sure they aren't causing any issues with the Taito Drive Logic CPU PCB.

 

http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/Kaizen088/Chase%20HQ%20DX%20Motion/EX3a_zpsawyd2mm9.jpghttp://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/Kaizen088/Chase%20HQ%20DX%20Motion/EX3b_zpsoqhuvn8y.jpghttp://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/Kaizen088/Chase%20HQ%20DX%20Motion/EX3c_zpsvygxovqa.jpg

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I'd say a PE beam will do the trick. P.E.= photo electric.

 

There are a few different types like transistor output both in N.C. or N.O..

 

Relay output where the contacts are again in N.O or N.C..

 

I would suggest just using a relay output device available from any auto gate or auto door company, they use them on everything and relay output allows you to power the P.E. beam off a separate power supply, probably 12vDC or 24vDC would be idea for your machine.

 

Now the tricky part. You are using transistor switching devices so you need to match the resistance to simulate the original part.

 

Measure the original part's output, should be power to output or ground to output and take note of what the readings are.

 

Using a resistor to adjust the output from the relay output P.E. beam contacts, simulate the signal you should be getting with the original part both when the circuit is closed and open.

 

You can get the relay output P.E. beams up to double pole, double throw so if need be you can keep the beam open and beam closed signals separate but chances are they will need to be on the same circuit.

 

If this is the case use only one relay contact to handle both signals. Put one resistor on the N.O. contact of the P.E. beam and another resistor on the N.C. contact.

 

This will give you an output with one resistor value when the beam is open and add to this value when the beam is closed.

 

Give me some figures you need to simulate and I'll work out the diagram if that helps better than text.

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Thanks mate, that gives me a good understanding of what it needs to do.

I'm just about to trace the wiring back to see what they are switching.

 

 

I checked a couple of the wires and they go back to the Drive Logic CPU PCB.

There should be enough information to make up a circuit so the CPU thinks that there is a sensor there.

Edited by Kaizen
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I traced all the sensor wiring and it looks like there should be four Projectors and four Detectors.

They are a paired unit so it originally had four EX3-M3D's and four EX3-M3P's.

The wiring has eight lines of 12v supply and four (outputs from the Detectors) inputs to the Drive Logic CPU PCB.

 

The output is LO in normal state (-2.8mv).

 

http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/Kaizen088/Chase%20HQ%20DX%20Motion/20170501_184448_zpsqbeorbhu.jpg

 

When the beam is interrupted it goes to a HI (4.08 volts).

 

http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/Kaizen088/Chase%20HQ%20DX%20Motion/20170501_184523_zpssc97gugc.jpg

 

 

Simply this means I just tie them all low and the CPU should think all is good.

As mentioned previously, I'll check the resistance to ground when in the on state.

Would I need to tie the signals to ground through something similar to a POR or just hard wire them directly to ground?

 

I don't like my chances of these popping up on Ebay, I already searched with no luck, no luck on Yahoo Japan either.

They were discontinued in 2001.

The cab will be used at home so I don't see the need to have to source them, I'll just tie the four input lines to ground.

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I would say there is one signal going back to the board to disable the motion should it detect a beam broken. Some machines have numerous sensors, (P.E.Beams), so as to stop the machine hitting someone that comes to close.

 

I used to look after a simulator that had 8 beams. Double beams around all 4 sides, and 2 switches on each door as well as two seat belt detectors. You open a door and the motion stops. You unbuckle a seat belt, (when the seat detector detects someone is sitting in that seat), the motion stops.

 

That sim used a multitude of signals going to the board and any one out of alignment would cause problems, that was very common.

 

I would think your machine is simply one signal that daisy chains through all the beams. You could try seeing if your sensors are marked TX or RX on them. TX being transmitter. RX being receiver. That is what I would be expecting.

 

To bypass the sensors for testing purposes you should be able to point the 1st TX at the face of the last RX in the chain and see the motion start to work.

 

You could then check what the signal from the last RX back to the board should be to enable the motion and just substitute that signal and do away with the safety beams.

 

OW sorry, I posted before I read your last post.

 

So you have 4 signals going back to the board and they need to be low to signal that beam is intact?.

 

Go a 1k resistor to ground on each line going back to the board.

 

1K is a good starting point for electronics. Not to high and not to low to do any damage.;)

 

What ever you do don't allow any to "float"....Float = not connected to a positive high or low signal.

 

 

 

It's not as if you are going to have small children running up to the machine while it's in operation in your garage.

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Thanks again @Autosteve, I'll do exactly that.

I'm working on it right now so I'll dig out a few 1k resistors and see how it goes.

 

Thanks again for your help, it seems I need to become familiar with every aspect of the cab, what it does and how it works.

I reckon I won't need schematics when I done.

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I robbed a parts board for four 1k resistors and tied the four sensor wires to ground.

I found the four wires had a ground next to them at one of the connectors so I used that ground.

 

The OPT LED was always lit, I thought it meant that the position and speed sensors were OK but it would look like the OPT is for the Safety OPTics. It's no longer lit.

The four LEDs next to it are for the Motor speed/rotation encoding and they alternate as the motors rotate so they are working okay.

 

I've established one of the motor controllers definitely has a fault so I'll have a look at that tomorrow.

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I connected the Logic Probe to the Drive Logic CPU PCB and checked the inputs from the sensors while connected to the 1k resistors.

Each line is reading HI with the logic probe and when you remove 3 of the sensor inputs the OPT LED stays off.

When you remove the last remaining sensor input the OPT LED on the PCB turns on.

 

I didn't think it would work that way... :unsure

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