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Need your knowledge on donor compatibility


scrappy

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Hi . I have a mame 2000 plus games on it. I aquired this cabinet about a month ago . it came with a wg 25 inch zenith crt. The crt has 6 of the 8 neck pins missing off it due to the prior owners rampage .. So i hear the tube is pretty much toast i understand. A couple days ago i ran upon a wg 25 inch phillips with pcb and neckboard. The only diifferance i can tell from the old zennith and my new find the phillips is the phillips is ten pin. What are the chances i can use the phillips with its pcb and neckboard as a donor . what are the chances i can just swap them out and it will simply work. .. my other question is if the original pcb with the zennith will work good with the phillips crt . Im not sure how the pcb that came with the phillips will petform. But i was told that the phillps crt does work. . Is there any place where i can find info for compatability for these crts etc.... thanks guys for all your help ... and remember to try not to beat up on the newbie to much .... thsnks. I am icludeing some pics of old crt info and new phillips info. .... looking forward to all your help. Thanks again.20170407_211318.jpg20170407_211327.jpg20170407_211533.jpg

 

Now the original zenith with broken pins

[ATTACH]108303[/ATTACH]20170331_145306.jpg

 

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20170329_181614.jpg

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Just a quick question/note.

 

Typically you have the following connections

the tube -> neckboard -> chassis board -> Signal RGB from game unit -> Jamma Connector -> game unit

If you damage the neckboard the best bet would be to use the donor tube/neckboard/chassis and see if the input signal can be fed through the new combination.

Then you can swap the whole unit over.

Alternative is to use a donor tube and see Jomac (on this site) and he can provide a universal neckboard/chassis to match your tube.

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Alternative is to use a donor tube and see Jomac (on this site) and he can provide a universal neckboard/chassis to match your tube.

 

Jomac no longer supports overseas work.

 

Philips (the electronics company) has one "L" in the name.

 

I would plug it in and hold my breath - not a lot to lose really.

 

Failing that just bite the bullet and fit an LCD. Old chassis and tubes are just too much agro. Even if you do manage to get it working the picture is likely to be "reasonable" at best and shit probably.

 

Also the reliability of 30 year old chassis has to be kept in mind.

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Ok thanks ... just to get it straight..... your saying use my donor tube , neckboard ,chasis .wire and secure all connections properly and see what happens

. I will keep my fingers crossed that this works ...im new to all this but have been very excited even with yhe baby steps ive been takeing.... thanks for your help

 

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Jomac no longer supports overseas work.

 

Philips (the electronics company) has one "L" in the name.

 

I would plug it in and hold my breath - not a lot to lose really.

 

Failing that just bite the bullet and fit an LCD. Old chassis and tubes are just too much agro. Even if you do manage to get it working the picture is likely to be "reasonable" at best and shit probably.

 

Also the reliability of 30 year old chassis has to be kept in mind.

Hi .. thanks for the info. I have had the thought of going to lcd if this dont work..is the level of difficulty low if i choose to go with lcd

 

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@Homepin

Didn't know Jomac wasn't doing overseas stuff. Thanks for that.

 

@scrappy you can swap the whole

Tube -> Neckboard -> chassis -> Signal RGB

for

LCD -> Signal RGB from gamebox

You just need to select the right size of LCD and make sure it can take the signal from your game unit if you wish to use that.

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@Homepin

Didn't know Jomac wasn't doing overseas stuff. Thanks for that.

 

@scrappy you can swap the whole

Tube -> Neckboard -> chassis -> Signal RGB

for

LCD -> Signal RGB from gamebox

You just need to select the right size of LCD and make sure it can take the signal from your game unit if you wish to use that.

Thanks

 

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Aussie Arcade mobile app

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Just a quick question/note.

 

Typically you have the following connections

the tube -> neckboard -> chassis board -> Signal RGB from game unit -> Jamma Connector -> game unit

If you damage the neckboard the best bet would be to use the donor tube/neckboard/chassis and see if the input signal can be fed through the new combination.

Then you can swap the whole unit over.

Alternative is to use a donor tube and see Jomac (on this site) and he can provide a universal neckboard/chassis to match your tube.

Hi. I did the swap and this is what i have. 628035596e48a3fe1c68f2f7debce3fb.jpg

 

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Aussie Arcade mobile app

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