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Thomas the tank engine. TTTE.


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I'm sorry nodded off on the couch:sleep

Yes probably , most electronic pinballs have a ground plate to stop the rx/tx of electromagnetic interference.

Cheap insurance if your putting it under the PF,I just noticed as mentioned earlier there's not a lot of ground/shielding on the board.

Just something that shares the ground/case of the power supplies would do.

I just thought now would be a good time to consider it.

Thank you Sir. I'll see what I can work out. Would you suggest a cage as Steve mentioned or would just a flat plate suffice? I haven't figured out how to add a ground plane to the board yet.

Cheers Trev

 

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I think if you start with a plate fine , I was just worried once devices and wiring go in it would be painful.

If room could be left around the board to add a lid with some bent corners that connect to the lower plate.

Your doing such a nice job here , I just don't want it to come unstuck.

As a point of interest it's not just EMI that is generated in your machine you have to keep out EMI from the machines that sit next to it.

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I think if you start with a plate fine , I was just worried once devices and wiring go in it would be painful.

If room could be left around the board to add a lid with some bent corners that connect to the lower plate.

Your doing such a nice job here , I just don't want it to come unstuck.

As a point of interest it's not just EMI that is generated in your machine you have to keep out EMI from the machines that sit next to it.

Thanks for the warning. I'll keep an eye out for some sheet metal. I think theres a roll of thin flat galvanised iron around here somewhere.

Cheers Trev

 

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I haven't figured out how to add a ground plane to the board yet.

Cheers Trev

 

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This is generally just filling up the board with ground instead of nothing , when the board is double sided ground can sheild opposite sides of the board.

This can minimise how much external shielding is required.

Even on prototype boards I fill in unused areas with ground .

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This is generally just filling up the board with ground instead of nothing , when the board is double sided ground can sheild opposite sides of the board.

This can minimise how much external shielding is required.

Even on prototype boards I fill in unused areas with ground .

 

I might have to look for different software as the one I'm using seemed to have this option disabled.

 

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Thanks for the warning. I'll keep an eye out for some sheet metal. I think theres a roll of thin flat galvanised iron around here somewhere.

Cheers Trev

 

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The mesh on an old Taito power supply or the metal cage used on an old PC power supply.;) Ideal shape and size with a bit of trimming to make it more shallow

 

It worked fine for a cage for them.;)

 

Personally, I would go overboard with a full cage encasing your boards.

 

At least then if you have coils intermittently firing occasionally or a light flicker occasionally you know it IS your doing and not a stay spike causing your absolutely perfect electronics to have hickups.:realmad:

 

Last thing you want on the big day at PinFest is a coil that locked on, (for no apparent reason), raining on your parade or possibly your machine blowing up either @kress or @thegrunta666 machines sitting each side of you and going ballistic from spikes coming from your machine. :blink:

 

P.S. the wiring harnesses just pass through holes in the cage. ( look how Taito did it).

 

MicroSoft went overboard with the shielding around the controller cables grounded to the connector and the connector itself grounded to the cage and the cage grounded to the mains earth pin.

 

The cage grounded to the earth pin via the machine's ground will do just fine in your application unless you are using long multi-strand cable in which case you would use shielded cables and ground that cable shield to the cage as well which is basically making the cable part of the cage as well inside it's cable shielding.

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If the threat of an EMI from TTTE is real news, not fake news, then maybe a pre-emptive EMP from Battle Pinny would be FAB ! Who's got the bigger RED button then , hey @BIG Trev.....maybe time to post that "back on the rails" thing again [emoji38]
One blast from your magnets @thegrunta666 would take out the whole suburb.[emoji6]

 

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I thought the whole idea of putting a diode on the coils was to stop spikes when the magnetic field collapses?
I guess the diode stops a spike going through the cabling back to the control circuitry but there's also the magnetic fields that can be put out by coils that, I'm guessing, could induce a current in the wiring and therefore fry components on boards.

 

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I thought the whole idea of putting a diode on the coils was to stop spikes when the magnetic field collapses?

 

The diode sinks the electric current that is produced by the field collapse. But it's that magnetic field that can pass through all the other electronics causing spurious signals.

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Hi @Autosteve You wouldn't have a couple of those Taito mesh cases going spare in your cleanup would you? I like that idea.

Cheers Trev

 

Only on working ones sorry. Here's a couple of suggestions...

 

Security door screen... Amplimesh or a cheap alternative offcuts...(window manufactures)

 

Speaker grill

 

Cage out of a dead Xbox 360

 

Old Bally SS transformer cage

 

Mesh out of an old micro wave oven...(part of it's faraday cage all microwaves must have)

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I think that turned out ok.

5485fa227881b21857cb3440d930e19c.jpg

3f678eec2530da77d433678d3b6df258.jpg

de40c1fc9d22610a78bc7528b0369214.jpg

If anyone has one of these power supplies, working or not I'd be happy to buy it.

Found. No longer needed.

9545792679feb35ba58007b21f3028e0.jpg

The 3d printed board spacers turned out to fit ok too as did the mounting holes on the pulse stretcher board.

[emoji16]81237116c340d462876cef5b62b6dd0e.jpg

 

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Edited by BIG Trev
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I have a few questions on the topic of noise suppression.

Should I use shielded cable for the serial wiring from board to board? (Something like a cat 5 cable)

And should I ground the shield? I'll have a long run from the Fat Controller board under the playfield to the display controller in the back box.

Also would these snap on ferrite core beads be beneficial on the serial cabling for noise suppression or is a shielded cable sufficient?

Cheers Trev.015c4eeee1965c96e32dacc190f89bbc.jpg

 

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