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Thomas the tank engine. TTTE.


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Theoretically, it should not effect the amps...but its all theory just yet. When I put it in, I will see the real world effect. Its just 11 diodes in series. The are 12 amp 60 volt. There will be a heating effect, so that's why the heatsinks. They will run the coils so really only 50m/s bursts. When the flippers are on they will draw a bit more juice , if the flipper is held.

 

With 11 diodes in series I see a flaw. If one diode goes open circuit the whole thing stops, It's sort of the Christmas tree bulb problem.

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Does this maintain the amps? It looks simple can you post the schematic?

 

It should develop no heat unless the diodes are near there current limit. You are simply running DC through a diode so the diode isn't actually doing anything, just dropping .6 -.7 of a volt each. The diode isn't working like a resistor where voltage is chewed up, it is just the natural voltage drop you get when running DC through a diode so no heat is generated.

If it is a small signal current like under 20mA, you can put in an LED instead of a normal diode and although the LED will never light because it has no ground, it will drop the voltage that colour LED is rated at.

 

Example....

 

9afe777f7796f0f14acb6f2781bcda35.png

 

12volt signal and you want it to become 5volts, run the 12volts through two white LEDs in series and you will get 5 volts out of the last white LED.

 

Electronics....there are many ways to achieve the desired result.;)

 

Just make sure you do write down in your diagram why the diodes are there so you don't spend hours trying to work out why these diodes are in there for in the future.:lol

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It should develop no heat unless the diodes are near there current limit. You are simply running DC through a diode so the diode isn't actually doing anything, just dropping .6 -.7 of a volt each. The diode isn't working like a resistor where voltage is chewed up, it is just the natural voltage drop you get when running DC through a diode so no heat is generated.

If it is a small signal current like under 20mA, you can put in an LED instead of a normal diode and although the LED will never light because it has no ground, it will drop the voltage that colour LED is rated at.

 

Example....

 

https://i.pinimg.com/originals/9a/fe/77/9afe777f7796f0f14acb6f2781bcda35.png

 

12volt signal and you want it to become 5volts, run the 12volts through two white LEDs in series and you will get 5 volts out of the last white LED.

 

Electronics....there are many ways to achieve the desired result.;)

 

Just make sure you do write down in your diagram why the diodes are there so you don't spend hours trying to work out why these diodes are in there for in the future.:lol

 

Whilst the current may be negligible , Kirchoffs current Law states ' the current is the same at any point in a series circuit.

A Diode say dropping .7volts with 10 amp load in series will have to dissipate .7 x 10 = 7 Watts

The main rule I was taught in electronics is there is ' no free lunch'.

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... you can put in an LED instead of a normal diode and although the LED will never light because it has no ground, it will drop the voltage that colour LED .....

 

Once the LED is Forward Biased and passing current it will be illuminated simply due to the potential difference across it. Ground doesnt come into whether the LED lights up or not. Polarity and potential difference dictate that.

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Whilst the current may be negligible , Kirchoffs current Law states ' the current is the same at any point in a series circuit.

A Diode say dropping .7volts with 10 amp load in series will have to dissipate .7 x 10 = 7 Watts

The main rule I was taught in electronics is there is ' no free lunch'.

 

So your saying it....

 

Won't work?

It will work but heat will be an issue?

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No, just saying a led has current and heat dissipation.

By the time we could touch it and feel the heat it would already have it's juncture punctured.

Just have to do your sums in ohms Law. @thegrunta666 s Diode board is an example of how to do Diode voltage regulation.

But the facts remain.If you drop 10% of your voltage using a series Diode chain , 10% of your current is dissipated in the diodes.

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You know what the irony is?. There seems to be more acknowledgement for bagging out the idea of using diodes as a form of dropping voltage than the idea itself.

While the idea of using diodes in this way is by no means a new idea, it has been done since diodes were first invented especially in high current applications, it seemed apparent to me many here had no idea of this use for diodes and I thought I was possibly helping in solving a couple of problems.

I think I will think twice next time. Sometimes it is best to let people learn the hard way or never learn at all. Sad but becoming very apparent.

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You know what the irony is?. There seems to be more acknowledgement for bagging out the idea of using diodes as a form of dropping voltage than the idea itself.

While the idea of using diodes in this way is by no means a new idea, it has been done since diodes were first invented especially in high current applications, it seemed apparent to me many here had no idea of this use for diodes and I thought I was possibly helping in solving a couple of problems.

I think I will think twice next time. Sometimes it is best to let people learn the hard way or never learn at all. Sad but becoming very apparent.

 

No-one I think is bagging the idea.

For small scale circuits I ( less than 1Watt ) I think a resistor and a zener diode is a more appropriate

regulator.

For Large Scales 1W - 100W Diode chains are a worthwhile idea but lose one

lose them all.

My point was diodes have power ratings 1W - 10W - 100W etc

and they get hot , that's why they come with heatsink plates.

The .7 volt drop in a series circuit needs to be accounted for.

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Sorry @BIG Trev for hijacking the post a bit with this diode thingy. So first yes @Gemini2544 if I loose 1 diode , I lose all power. Second..I have put the board in Battle Pinny. The supply voltage into the diodes is 47.97VDC, the output is 41.83VDC. Voltage dropped across the diodes is 6.14VDC , so with 11 diodes in circuit, its dropping 0.56 volts across each one. Current is still fine to all the coils. The purpose for this was to keep the 42VDC on the coils and let me ramp the primary supply voltage back up to 48VDC to run the Battle Pinny Magnets back to full strength for better game play. It has worked so far. More test games required.

I know return you back to the TTTE Story....thank Trev. (PS I will buy you a Beer at Pinfest :D )

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  • 2 weeks later...

Still a way to go. I hope to get the playfield and other platsics printed when we head to Sydney on Holidays at the end of the month.

I need to touch up the paint in places, mount the display and LEDs in the backbox and fit the topper engines next.

I've got to say @stuzza did an awesome job on the artwork it looks absolutely gorgeous.

 

No big reveal now until it's been shown at Pinfest, whenever that'll be.3e3a15a6cea9017fea26efd9bed01e87.jpgf9dc41c513efaabee25024b93f4c594c.jpg3bcbbc8fe1440b79c22dc3a81b826a6e.jpg9fc033ec78ccc75c2e334be2c02cd959.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

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I had a nice surprise waiting for me in our letterbox today.

I owe a huge thankyou to Jeff and Mark @Railways for the beautiful chrome leg bolts and brushed stainless cabinet protectors that arrived today, that are destined for the Thomas pinball. It's a shame to cover the cabinet protectors with legs as the brushed stainless finish looks terrific.

Thanks Guys they're very much appreciated.

Cheers Trev 1a154d05602df64250ab72f265aeeb22.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

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I had a nice surprise waiting for me in our letterbox today.

I owe a huge thankyou to Jeff and Mark @Railways for the beautiful chrome leg bolts and brushed stainless cabinet protectors that arrived today, that are destined for the Thomas pinball. It's a shame to cover the cabinet protectors with legs as the brushed stainless finish looks terrific.

Thanks Guys they're very much appreciated.

Cheers Trev https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190715/1a154d05602df64250ab72f265aeeb22.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

 

But was there any snickers bars?

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I had a nice surprise waiting for me in our letterbox today.

I owe a huge thankyou to Jeff and Mark @Railways for the beautiful chrome leg bolts and brushed stainless cabinet protectors that arrived today, that are destined for the Thomas pinball. It's a shame to cover the cabinet protectors with legs as the brushed stainless finish looks terrific.

Thanks Guys they're very much appreciated.

Cheers Trev

 

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

No prob Trev, we're happy to help.
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Sad to say that we had adhesion problems with the cabinet decals and they'll all have to come off and new ones will have to be applied.

I don't know if it was because I left them in the shed for too long before using them or if we put too much detergent in the water when applying them but they just won't stick.

On the bright side Carson is printing a new set that I'll pick up at the end of the month and I'll be dropping off the rest of the artwork to him and the plastic for the playfield protector that needs to be laser cut. I'll probably get two done while I'm there. In the meantime I'll mount the ball in play lights, the game over lamp and the scoring display in the backbox and wire up the topper engines and mount them in place.

 

 

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

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Sad to say that we had adhesion problems with the cabinet decals and they'll all have to come off and new ones will have to be applied.

I don't know if it was because I left them in the shed for too long before using them or if we put too much detergent in the water when applying them but they just won't stick.

On the bright side Carson is printing a new set that I'll pick up at the end of the month and I'll be dropping off the rest of the artwork to him and the plastic for the playfield protector that needs to be laser cut. I'll probably get two done while I'm there. In the meantime I'll mount the ball in play lights, the game over lamp and the scoring display in the backbox and wire up the topper engines and mount them in place.

 

 

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

 

Oh bugger, I hate this 2 steps forward and 1 step back with a Homebrew....but eventually you step forward enough to finish it :D keep on march'in @BIG Trev

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