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Thomas the tank engine. TTTE.


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that 3d printer seems be bloody usefull for all these gizmos your making here, your designing like a pro

 

Problem is the actual strength of the parts made on a 3D printer and people making things that really should be made of metal or far stronger grades of plastic.

 

I'm making drop targets ATM and it would be so nice to make some up on a 3D printer however they will break real quick as the plastic just isn't suitable for the job.

 

Poly-carbonate however is.;)

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I've just seen the preliminary artwork for the playfield and it's friggin awesome but I'm not allowed to show you.[emoji16]

 

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

 

Thought I was in a Homepin thread for a minute.. :lol :run:

 

But seriously, fantastic work Trev, great to watch how things are coming together!!

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Can't you get the same plastic for 3D printing that is used for Lego bricks? Those bricks are damn near indestructible…

 

Michi.

Hi @Michi there are many different types of filament available but not all printers can use them. Mine, being a base model, can only print PLA.

Cheers Trev

 

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

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Can't you get the same plastic for 3D printing that is used for Lego bricks? Those bricks are damn near indestructible…

 

Michi.

 

A lot of people simply don't allow for the stresses some parts go though to perform there role they are intended for and think 3D printing is the answer to everything.

 

Gears are one part that look ideal for a 3D printer to make because the gear they are replacing was made of plastic anyway but the chances are the original gears were made from Acetal or some other high strength plastic that required the part to be milled from an ingot and not formed from hot plastic.

 

The poly-carbonate I am using at the moment, I have to use a router on it to form the shape and it near splinters when you cut into it but you can bend this material 90 degrees with a lot of force required and it simply springs back into it's original shape.

 

Amazingly it only requires about 150c and you can bend it to the shape you require and it cools to that new shape perfectly.

 

I have been using a butane torch to heat it and yet the plastic doesn't discolour.

 

I was expecting it to at least yellow from heating but nothing. It remains perfectly clear.

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Hi @Michi there are many different types of filament available but not all printers can use them. Mine, being a base model, can only print PLA.

 

Ah, I see. I figured that the type of printer might have something to do with it. It still seems to me that the Lego plastic would stand up to a lot of abuse. Probably suitable for something like a stand-up target. But then, there is no way to know without actually trying it.

 

A few years from now, compiling snippets of information such as this will be immensely valuable. The cost of 3D printing will plummet. In another five years, I wouldn't be surprised to see that a lot of households have a 3D printer around for those odd repair jobs that, otherwise, would be economically infeasible.

 

Michi.

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I saw this

275998b57d4885d466f2e7b749fb6f32.jpg

on the new cab that arrived the other day and thought that the plastic boxes for the lights would be handy for this

2df330c637fb863f3af6c193d4ad16f9.jpg

So I 3d printed this

b9baf28d1f9f53b720323f5781aaffc8.jpg

with the last of my white filament. It actually ran out 1mm from the top of the print. Oh well I did a bit if a redesign so the cables and Neopixel will be held in place by it better and ended up with this.

900d655ed0c8b0a1c4ab4ba68e94d8b4.jpg

It's so deep because I want to fit the display and lamps on the same piece of ply and have all the tops flush with the inside of the translite.

fd4ec4fbdbd9ea114c53f64b04f07a90.jpg

This also shows the display controller mounted under the display with a custom made cable. There will be 4 wires coming from this controller board back to the Fat Controller board.

I'll try and draw a special reflector box to go behind the cloud on the translite too and maybe behind the game over light for the hacked torch lamp.

aa6ce8d5c0292bf87df08eafb6c54ef4.jpg

95f6120699d731734e0b3deaf1a7cd2f.jpg

Cheers Trev

 

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

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  • 1 month later...

You've got to admire the many talents of AA members.

be91b220f7e24170c5390a1300ea172f.jpg

I can't thank @stuzza enough for his beautiful artwork.

I'm getting a sample print done at Officeworks. It's just going to be on plan paper (cheaper option for a test print) but it will be colour and full size.

Cheers Trev.

 

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

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You've got to admire the many talents of AA members.

be91b220f7e24170c5390a1300ea172f.jpg

I can't thank @stuzza enough for his beautiful artwork.

I'm getting a sample print done at Officeworks. It's just going to be on plan paper (cheaper option for a test print) but it will be colour and full size.

Cheers Trev.

 

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

 

Perfect :)

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Ah, I see. I figured that the type of printer might have something to do with it. It still seems to me that the Lego plastic would stand up to a lot of abuse. Probably suitable for something like a stand-up target. But then, there is no way to know without actually trying it.

 

A few years from now, compiling snippets of information such as this will be immensely valuable. The cost of 3D printing will plummet. In another five years, I wouldn't be surprised to see that a lot of households have a 3D printer around for those odd repair jobs that, otherwise, would be economically infeasible.

 

Michi.

 

Nah,

Me and my cousin used to have Lego wars. Not just single pieces but blocks of 4 stuck together.

Often the sides of the pieces would crack from the hurled impacts.

Edited by ozfalcon
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Modern lego bricks are made from ABS plastic. ABS filament is widely available so it is possible to 3d print with the same material so long as your printer is set up for ABS.

Cheers Trev

 

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

 

ABS is impact resistant. So could be ok if it's thick enough.

(Lego is quite thin - Which is probably why it cracked in the Lego Wars)

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  • 1 month later...

Well I got to do a bit today. Not a lot but it's something I've been struggling with.

The reflectors for the ball number leds just wouldn't adhere to the print bed and I've tried three different brands of filament.

I had a think about it and tried printing them with a wide brim and raising the print temp from 200 deg to 216 and it seems to work. [emoji16]

Cheers Trev.14841fd4a5843098bd3e528f8e188224.jpgdcf36d725cb55d5a96ed20f7e6b45f77.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

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