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Time Crisis resto help


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Hi all,

 

I'm having a few issues with my Time Crisis machine. Jomac just fixed the chassis so I'm now getting a picture (what a legend!), but now there's some other issues I need to work through.

 

1) Firstly the service, test and demagnetisation switches are missing from inside the coin door. What's the best way for me to replace these or otherwise access the service menu?

 

2) The gun works but every shot is showing to the bottom left of the screen. I'm hoping this is just an accuracy thing that can be fixed within the gun initialization menu?

 

3) The picture colours are completely off. I've played around for ages but just can't get them right. I'm guessing the service menu is going to help me with this.. but that aside, are there any guru's in Brisbane that can help me out?

 

4) The pedal assembly doesn't work. When I plug it in the game thinks its pressed in constantly. The plunger and microswitch will be buggered I bet. So I'm thinking drill the screws out or find a replacement if there's one available that someone knows about?

 

Thanks in advance for all your combined knowledge :)

 

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20170518_193459.jpg.57bd9442da76089501f81a5ae5cf9847.jpg

 

20170518_193453.thumb.jpg.06751cbd58d12f556eff3c04183e5063.jpg

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Sorry this inst a direct response to the question's you've asked but if you wanted to save yourself some time cleaning the rusty metal plate try putting it into a bucket of 1/2 vinegar (the no name brand works a treat) 1/2 water. Give it 24 hours in the solution and it should come off with steal wool.
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Sorry this inst a direct response to the question's you've asked but if you wanted to save yourself some time cleaning the rusty metal plate try putting it into a bucket of 1/2 vinegar (the no name brand works a treat) 1/2 water. Give it 24 hours in the solution and it should come off with steal wool.

 

1. Momentary switches for test and service using common groung. Demag is another normally open momentary switch. You'll need to sort this out to fix the other issues.

 

2. This will likely be a calibration issue.

 

3. Demag and use this guide... http://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/How_to_Correctly_Set_Up_Monitor_Colours_and_Brightness

 

4. Like a busted microswitch. Confirm with multimeter using resistance test.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok so I've fixed almost everything. I can't get the red & greens perfect but I can sort that out later.. my main issue is the gun calibration. It's still firing in the bottom left corner and when I go into the gun calibration menu I'm getting "INVALID VALUE" whenever I pull the trigger.

 

I tested the voltage going to the opto board in the gun and that was 5.1v, I even replaced the Opto board with a new one from Zax just incase but still nothing.

 

I've unplugged the gun drive PCB and checked it along with the connections but can't see any obvious issues. I cleared the EEPROM too if for some magically reason that would fix it but nup!

 

I did come across this post from @Lord-Data who had the same issue and by the looks of it turned out to be a fault with the game board itself.

 

So I'm wondering where I should go from here? Does anyone in Brissy have a similar board I could test with? or another way to diagnose what exactly is wrong?

 

20170530_124336.thumb.jpg.3421e33d584a571bd22b8ec87f6cf673.jpg

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  • 9 months later...

Ok I've finally received the board back from InFocus who fixed the gun PCB and a few other issues, but now when I plug it in I get a shaky picture and what looks like inverted colours.

 

I've now had the entire cage looked at and fixed along with the monitor chassis.. I don't know where else to go from here. Loose connection maybe?

 

Is there anyone at all in Brisbane with experience who would be willing to come over and have a look? I'd be happy to pay you for your time, I'm just at my wits end with this thing :(

 

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Edited by n4sa
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Wow that's an awful picture , it's so bad it's hard to distinguish if it's partly a board fault , but first you need to get all the wiring to the monitor fixed up.

At the moment it is missing the Video Gnd which is giving a Negative image and also causing it to drift off and go out of Sync .

 

Time Crisis 1 also needs to have the monitor Gnd and Sync connected to the monitor for the gun to work , you will see a separate 2 pin connector going to a removable plate on the game box , where most people mess up is by assuming the white wire is Sync , but it's actually Gnd .

On this game if it has the original wiring , The video output connector has 5 wires , Red , Green , Blue , Brown ( Sync ) and White ( Gnd )..... The same Brown and White connect to the 2 pin connector on the side of the game board metal box. , I have seen a few that have been put together from Kits so the wire colours are all over the place so you will need to find a wiring diagram for the machine and trace all the wires from the game board to the monitor , it is silk screened on the chassis where the wires should be , it's small but next to the connector. , the pin marked V at the end of the chassis input connector is not used .

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Wow that's an awful picture , it's so bad it's hard to distinguish if it's partly a board fault , but first you need to get all the wiring to the monitor fixed up.

At the moment it is missing the Video Gnd which is giving a Negative image and also causing it to drift off and go out of Sync .

 

Time Crisis 1 also needs to have the monitor Gnd and Sync connected to the monitor for the gun to work , you will see a separate 2 pin connector going to a removable plate on the game box , where most people mess up is by assuming the white wire is Sync , but it's actually Gnd .

On this game if it has the original wiring , The video output connector has 5 wires , Red , Green , Blue , Brown ( Sync ) and White ( Gnd )..... The same Brown and White connect to the 2 pin connector on the side of the game board metal box. , I have seen a few that have been put together from Kits so the wire colours are all over the place so you will need to find a wiring diagram for the machine and trace all the wires from the game board to the monitor , it is silk screened on the chassis where the wires should be , it's small but next to the connector. , the pin marked V at the end of the chassis input connector is not used .

Thanks for your reply Joey. I've checked wiring and grounding and can't see anything out of place. What am I missing? Where would the grounding you're talking about be exactly?

 

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Thanks for your reply Joey. I've checked wiring and grounding and can't see anything out of place. What am I missing? Where would the grounding you're talking about be exactly?

 

1919fd41e9e96d46576989062fea8f9b.jpgb66b4e3b6dfeae262b989107daa8f701.jpg9418c27098845589447d5d4567d3387d.jpg

 

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And here are the two white and brown wires you're talking about I think. I don't have the end plate for the cage so I've just twisted them together for now c48fc66cfd9a80df5b02c0a0458d5909.jpg

 

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Sorry I really can't think of an easier way of explaining it , all I can tell you is you need to download the Time Crisis wiring diagram and confirm Video Gnd is connected to the correct place on the chassis and game board , same with H Sync , then you need to check that the 2 extra wires that are supposed to be connected to the plate on the board and also joined to the Video Gnd and Sync .

I can't see the game board wiring in your pictures but the Video input connector is clear to see , Black is Gnd , Brown is H-Sync , now you just have to make sure they are going to the correct places on the game board.

 

If you are totally certain all this wiring is correct then you definitely have a game board fault , judging by the incredible amount of rust everywhere inside that cab and also the plate missing off the game board box , the boards will have become a sacrificial anode for corrosion and moisture, The game is 23 years old , even 6 months exposed to these conditions is enough to destroy game boards.

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Sorry I really can't think of an easier way of explaining it , all I can tell you is you need to download the Time Crisis wiring diagram and confirm Video Gnd is connected to the correct place on the chassis and game board , same with H Sync , then you need to check that the 2 extra wires that are supposed to be connected to the plate on the board and also joined to the Video Gnd and Sync .

I can't see the game board wiring in your pictures but the Video input connector is clear to see , Black is Gnd , Brown is H-Sync , now you just have to make sure they are going to the correct places on the game board.

 

If you are totally certain all this wiring is correct then you definitely have a game board fault , judging by the incredible amount of rust everywhere inside that cab and also the plate missing off the game board box , the boards will have become a sacrificial anode for corrosion and moisture, The game is 23 years old , even 6 months exposed to these conditions is enough to destroy game boards.

 

Thanks Joey, appreciate your help. I've gone over everything about 10 times.. unplugged it all, taken it out and put it back in.. but still the same. After you fixed the chassis the only screen issue I had prior to getting the game pcb fixed was a yellow picture, which Steve@InFocus said he fixed. I'll try to get a hold of him to see if he can shed any light on it.

 

Otherwise is there anyone in the Redlands who could pop over and take a look for me? Happy to pay a service fee I would just really like to get this working

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All fixed :) Thanks to @arcadeking for putting me in touch with someone who knew what they were doing!

 

It was indeed a grounding issue and it came down to corrosion of pins within the plugs.

 

Look how good she is now :)

 

IMG_20180322_194632.thumb.jpg.da388381c7c62ec6101bdc669c0466a2.jpg

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  • 7 months later...

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