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5v switching power supply


Slypinball

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Hey all

As some of you seen I picked up a Atari hard drivin cockpit awhile ago.

 

I have some spare replacement boards on there way so thought I would make a spare checking all the voltages and trying to work out the wiring as it looks like alot had been disconnected by the previous owner.

 

So I'm starting with the 5+ switch power supply. It is a Hitron HSA 122B.

 

Now it looks to be dead no 5+ output.

 

This particular power supply has a

-sense and a +sense

 

Am I able to swap it out with a standard arcade switching power supply or do I need one with the + - sense

 

Thanks

 

Sent from my D5833 using Aussie Arcade mobile app

Edited by dezbaz
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From the small bit of information I have read but I might be taking it the wrong way.

 

The two sense line will help with load spikes allowing the power supply to automatically adjust the 5+ as load requires as much as .75v

 

I'm just unsure if a standard switching power supply will be able to handle the load

 

 

Sent from my D5833 using Aussie Arcade mobile app

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The sense terminals are to compensate for voltage from in the wires going from the PSU to the load. They are connected as close as possible to the load, so you end up with 4 wires; 2 heavy ones for the PSU output and 2 thinner ones for the sensing.

 

If the sense terminals are linked to the output terminals at the PSU end however there will be no benefit and you may as well use a regular PSU.

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You don't need one with Sense, that's a feature on the PSU, not the board, so the wires that would connect to the Sense lines can be used as additional 5v and Ground wires. It is only there to auto compensate for any losses, and so to avoid having to set the 5v adjust. It can cause issues with voltage runaway if the sense wires come lose, or the contacts are not great.

 

You are best off going for a decent branded PSU from someone like Meanwell, rather than a yum-cha generic arcade PSU. I used a 5v 10Amp MeanWell single rail PSU in my Vindicators refurb, the price is about the same but the quality is much higher.

 

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e230/Womble76/Vindicators/Vindicators3/009.jpg

 

Check what current draw Hard Drivin needs, they have a range of options, the board sets in HD are massive so I imagine it would be a lot thirstier than Vindicators.

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Thanks yes I will buy a heavy duty one similar to that one.

I believe I need 5v 15amp.

 

Will just be using the standard supply to test the main board until I can get another.

 

Do you have any recommendation on a supplier in Australia.

 

Thanks brad

 

Sent from my D5833 using Aussie Arcade mobile app

 

 

Hi,

 

If you are chasing Mean Well power supplies including these 5v enclosed power supplies, we sell them at work as a Mean Well Australia distributor and ship all over Australia,

All of our products get modified to Australian standard and then safety certified to be sold in Australia unlike the Mouser and Element14 products. The warranty is also valid in Australia (up to 7 years depending on the product) and subject to the ACCC / ACL that protect consumers.

 

http://www.aristo.jako.com.au

 

 

To give you an idea the Mean Well LRS-50-5 (10A, 5V, 50W) is $16-19.50+gst depending on the quantity you need. We also get them to you fast, same day, overnight or 2 days depending on your location and the time you place an order.

 

If you need something or even information, give me a call, (for number see website above).

 

Cheers,

Daniel

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What sort of multimeter are you using to test this?

 

Ive got a FLUKE T5-1000 that will show zero on a lot of switch mode power supplies, as well as a cheapy from Jaycar thatll show very low voltages on some supplies. My Brymen works fine with them all. Some meters are not capable of working on everything, its just how it is.

 

If the supply has a bit of ripple in it then you may not get an accurate reading, if any reading at all, especially if its an auto AC/DC selecting meter ( sees poor ripple DC as AC and shows little to nothing ) or auto ranging ( jumps around if the circuitry in the meter is quick enough or displays a wrong value if its not )

 

Might not be your issue, but still possible. If the meter has a frequency setting, try that and it may give you an idea on how smooth the DC output is.

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