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CRT TV EEPROM & Micom hacking for RGB (+tube swap for 48cm to 51cm TV)


buttersoft

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This thread started out being about swapping a 48cm tube onto a chassis that originally had a 51cm tube, but has turned into a discussion of EEPROM and microcontroller hacking to enable RGB on old Australian (possibly NZ) SD CRT TV's on which it appears to have been disabled by the microcontroller (Micom). Discussion of the latter begins a few pages in, and it's all very much a work in progress.

 

Note that not all old sets need the above, in progress hack in order for you to RGB mod them. As a very rough guide, if the neckboard has colour pots for RGB bias/gain, you probably don't need to worry, injecting signals into the jungle IC should just work. For newer sets without neckboard pots, try inserting RGB, and see if it works.

 

Remember that the shumps thread is a better place for information on the subject of RGB hacking!

 

I've been hunting for more RGB-moddable chassis to drive 20"/48cm TV tubes - the standard 2ohm/14.8ohm ones in old cabs. They're getting harder to find though.

 

After @namastepat's just-make-it-fit suggestion I was wondering about swapping out the chassis from a 51cm TV and using it on a standard 48cm tube. Do the 51cm tubes typically have the same yoke resistances and pinout? Is the required HV going to be much different? I know I've seen chassis that will suit multiple tubes.

 

At the moment I'm looking at this job here - https://my.mixtape.moe/rnatkf.pdf.

 

That service manual says the chassis can handle 14", 20" and 21" tubes. (In this particular case I suspect the 20" and 21" tubes might be the same thing but US vs Aus names? i.e both the same 51cm tube, not a 48cm one?)

Edited by buttersoft
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I was thinking I could buy a cheap universal remote that can learn commands, train it and send it down.

 

I'm happy to cover the cost.

 

 

Edit: I have a few universal remotes hanging around that I got from the recycling centre for $1 or $2. I'll see if I can get one of them to learn it.

 

Yeah, ok, that's a totally amazing idea. If you do spend even a bit more than that, let me know and i can reimburse you :)

 

EDIT: Most interested in turning on the SCART setting to see if it help with the massive noise issues i was getting. TBH i think it might already be on, and the noise is soming from elsewhere. Which is one reason i was keen to see if you had any luck hacking it.

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EDIT: Most interested in turning on the SCART setting to see if it help with the massive noise issues i was getting. TBH i think it might already be on, and the noise is soming from elsewhere. Which is one reason i was keen to see if you had any luck hacking it.

 

I don't see a scart setting in the Service manual. Do you mean Text?

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I probably did. I wasn't able to get to the service manual before, and it's been a while. I'll let you know how i get on :)

 

Thanks again :)

 

No worries, I thought it might've been a while since you did anything with it.

 

The service menu has a MOD0 option for "PAC NTSC TEXT" - Yep, "PAC". I'm guessing that's the one you're looking to set.

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Just a quick post to confirm I'm still alive - just been utterly smashed with wrapping up renovations on our holiday home, sooo much stuff with the kids, busy at work, some work on my project car, some work on my Jeep, a holiday, both my daughter's birthdays, and other stuff I can't even think of right now.

 

Hoping to spend some time on this toward the end of the month.

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Turns out Tim Worthington has already sussed out how to communicate with Jungle I/C's using I2C.

 

Television Bus Manipulator

 

Awesome. Now I'm curious as to when. I'm sure if he'd known how to do it when i had my original problem about a year ago, he would have responded in more depth. Or at least differently.

 

Can't look at link, but will when i get home.

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Not sure if this has been discussed already but is it possible to feed a raw RGBS signal directly into the neck board if that's the only signal you want to use? I have a few security monitors that have RGBS labelled on the neck board and I have a 10" TV that has RGBHV labelled. Would be great to use the 10" for a "small" project :D

 

I'm guessing it's not that simple but had to ask.

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It definitely can and has been done.

 

If you look up RGB neckboard mod or something like that you’ll get hits.

 

It’s not something I’ve tried.

 

Have you got model numbers for the sets?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Aussie Arcade

 

Thanks, will try that even though I thought I had previously.

 

The TV is an Action CTV-6090 with a 10” Samsung CRT. Cannot seem to find a schematic. It was designed to have SCART as an option possibly for Europe, but the space is covered up except for the outline of the SCART connector (tease!) and the circuit board does not seem to be populated for it. Was hoping it would be as easy as the LG mod :D

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Thanks, will try that even though I thought I had previously.

 

The TV is an Action CTV-6090 with a 10” Samsung CRT. Cannot seem to find a schematic. It was designed to have SCART as an option possibly for Europe, but the space is covered up except for the outline of the SCART connector (tease!) and the circuit board does not seem to be populated for it. Was hoping it would be as easy as the LG mod :D

 

Can you get the chip numbers from the set? Especially the jungle.

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Not sure if this has been discussed already but is it possible to feed a raw RGBS signal directly into the neck board if that's the only signal you want to use? I have a few security monitors that have RGBS labelled on the neck board and I have a 10" TV that has RGBHV labelled. Would be great to use the 10" for a "small" project :D

 

I'm guessing it's not that simple but had to ask.

 

Usually RGB of some form is fed to the neckboard (normally higher than 0.7Vp-p), but feeding S(ync) to the neckboard as well is highly unusual. This would either mean that sync is fed back to the main chassis from the neckboard, or involve some weird arrangements with the flyback and deflection sections. I've never seen either, but that doesn't make it impossible. Normally sync would go into the composite video slot or relevant input to the main chassis.

 

To my mind the issues surrounding feeding RGB to the neckboard aren't settled. In other places people have pointed out that if the image on the screen is about the right brightness then the beam current can't be too high, and the HV must be within specs, but I don't know enough to simply agree with that. I'm hoping VileTim will weigh in on the issue beyond his comments about the lack of beam current feedback allowing the HV to drop out of regulation, but short of that i might annoy @Jomac...

 

Joey, if i feed sync to a chassis, but bypass the video section and use my own amplifier to feed RGB directly to the neckboard, and i'm getting a normal not-too-bright image on the screen, what can go wrong? Using a nanao chassis, or using a Wei Ya?

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Can you get the chip numbers from the set? Especially the jungle.

 

There’s a Mitsubishi M34300-012SP (810103), a TDA4662 and a Mitsubish 80011A EEPROM(8150)

 

And after seeing the schematic, I found the TDA8362 jungle chip hidden underneath some RF shielding covering a large area of the PCB top and bottom with the tuner nearby.

Edited by Claude
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After god knows how many hours of searching for the schematics on and off since I picked up this TV on the roadside I seem to have now found what I think is a slightly older version of the schematics but seems to show me what I need. And that is the SCART RGB inputs leading to the Jungle Chip RGB pins and the resistors and capacitors needed in between.

 

So like the LG SCART "Upgrade", I might be able to do the same if I can figure out how to get into the service menu (don't have a remote but should be able to use a programmable one I'm hoping) and enable SCART. Otherwise I will go down the EEPROM programming path and work through that method if it's possible.

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I might be able to do the same if I can figure out how to get into the service menu (don't have a remote but should be able to use a programmable one I'm hoping) and enable SCART

 

I don't think you'll need to do that. There aren't any references to registers in the datasheet. Probably just apply between 1V and 3V to the blanking pin 21 and you're away.

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

Any chance of providing the link to the schematic? I read these things for fun!

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I don't think you'll need to do that. There aren't any references to registers in the datasheet. Probably just apply between 1V and 3V to the blanking pin 21 and you're away.

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

Any chance of providing the link to the schematic? I read these things for fun!

 

That’s good to know about the blanking pin and I was planning on posting the schematic and some pics soon.

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Here is the service manual for a similar model Lenco TC-9112 and page 17 has the relevant part of the schematic. Not the greatest of quality but hopefully figure it all out fairly easily.

 

Another model similar is the Roadstar CTV-552 and I was trying to download the docs from elektrotanya but hit my download limit and don't have an account and failed the registration test :lol

 

(couldn't post the full PDF as it was over 1MB so have just taken a snap of relevant schematic section for the moment as I am rushing out the door. Will sort out later)

 

SCART Schematics.PNG

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Just FYI, one of my security Monitors which is a 14" Pelco PMC14H with 2 composite in and out and 1 S-Video in and out all with audio in and out (chassis model # PMQM01 [CT???] )uses a Micronas VDP3130Y jungle chip and here is the link to the data sheet http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/86952/MICRONAS/VDP3130Y.html It has screen burn and cost me nothing so might be good to play on as I won't be too upset if I kill it. I also have a practically new 2005 Model Samsung security monitor next on the list.

 

And it has an Atmel 24C08A EEPROM

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Just FYI, one of my security Monitors which is a 14" Pelco PMC14H with 2 composite in and out and 1 S-Video in and out all with audio in and out (chassis model # PMQM01 [CT???] )uses a Micronas VDP3130Y jungle chip and here is the link to the data sheet http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/86952/MICRONAS/VDP3130Y.html It has screen burn and cost me nothing so might be good to play on as I won't be too upset if I kill it. I also have a practically new 2005 Model Samsung security monitor next on the list.

 

It has multiple RGB inputs. Hopefully an easy mod.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Aussie Arcade

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