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Thread: Junkyard Playfield Resto

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
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    Next step is to mask off the 'jalopy' and airbrush in the background blue with a colour-matched base-coat - Pic 1.
    Once that's dried (2 to 3 minutes) you can go in with your brushes (in this case, a dagger liner - see brush styles in foreground) and swipe in the Light blue grid - Pic 2.
    Once that's done remove the mask (Pic. 3)
    Then i very clumsily and casually fog in some areas of colour on the 'jalopy' (using brush, airbrush, my little finger, a q-tip, and a rolled up receipt i found in my pocket). These are just big random tones. They are laying a rough base down for the detail work.
    It's kind of hard to describe what's going on here, but in a nutshell imagine you are going in a PF Resto knowing that you will be doing multiple clear-coat sessions.
    Now for starters all the 'not under glass!' purists should relax at this point.
    At this stage we are literally using the clear as a high-build primer. In most cases up to 80% of each session gets sanded off. It's purely to fill lows and seal each art session.
    OK now that's out of the way lets continue...
    ... knowing there will be multiple 'clear sessions' you want to engineer the job in your head so that multiple layer & colour 'art' areas get broken up into stages, so that detail isn't effected by any underlying recent work. THE BEST MEDIA TO WORK ON IS THE SANDED CLEAR.
    So don't rush. Don't over-do an area. Don't try and do too much to an area.
    Know that between every clear session you will see areas - tiny little areas - around posts, under ramps etc. and you'll just gently and daintily touch them up.
    Then once you do a clear session you'll see more, and wonder how the hell you missed them! Then you'll make a list , sand down the PF and touch them up...
    ...then once you do a clear session you'll see more, and wonder how the HELL you missed them! Then you'll make a list , sand down the PF and touch them up...
    ...then once you do a clear session you'll see more, and wonder HOW THE HELL you missed them! Then you'll make a list , sand down the PF and touch them up...


    14681039_1773652376185399_5358163627978835228_o.jpg

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
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    2Pack UHS clear as a primer surfacer ... hack back time
    Got a few questions re: knocking it back, I reckon a picture tells a thousand words (maybe just 100 in this case
    Once fully cured it's out with the assortment of blocks and start going up through the grades.
    Make sure to do this though! CRUCIAL ! Place your nose on the glossy surface before you sand and breathe in ... nothing ?
    Yep, cool. Now knock the tops of the highest bits so there's a decent matt'ed up area, then plant your nose again in the same spot and inhale ...
    PHEWWWWYYYYY!!!! Congrats! You just helped tail-end solvents escape! And they are MUCHO grateful
    Depending on the intensity of the pong (did you keel over?) give the whole surface this process then sit it somewhere vertical, preferably in the sun.
    Let 'em do a runner for an hour or two, then give it an hour to cool down, then step up to next grade.
    Repeat. Repeat. Repeat, until you end up with a matte and dead flat 4/500 dry or 800 wet finish.

    Junkyard PF resto 7.jpg

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