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JAMMA issues with AWSD - FIXED


tjb

Question

Hi all, first off, thanks for taking the time to read this.

 

So I picked up an atomiswave SD (with a MAME pc in it hooked up to a JPAC) recently in pretty tip top condition but I'm having some issues running anything JAMMA through it (as about 70% of why I bought it was to run my boards through it), here's a video of my F3 running Puzzle Bubble 4. Worth noting is the lack of sound as well (I have a Puzzle Bubble 2X cart which shows the same symptoms).

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tsI34fL-7T8

 

Some other things worth noting (other games I tried).

 

Esp.ra.de = sound cuts in/out accompanied by a very light pop every second, begun to work fine after a few minutes, when it did, I was playing with the volume and had degaussed the monitor too (likely unrelated).

Mushihimetama = Lowering the contrast alllllllllll the way down appears to fix a blown-out picture, but that's not right... Is it?

 

The games themselves work just fine on my other cabinet (MS8 in an Astro City), so it's not the boards right? The lot I bought the cab off suggested it might've been a grounding issue, pressing against the pins on the harness didn't make a difference so maybe it's not something lose.

 

PSU is the infamous P271 but the leds light up as expected.

 

Some pictures.

 

Harness

http://i.imgur.com/HVLNmIu.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/hw4F7LU.jpg

 

Inside

http://i.imgur.com/oxPXYR5.jpg

 

I'm not the most knowledgeable person when it comes to these things, but it is something I am slowly addressing, so expect a lot of newbie mistakes on my end.

 

(If anyone here is on shmups forum I've more or less posted this on the hardware section there too)

Edited by tjb
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Firstly any jamma boards running on a tri-res monitor (Wei-ya) will have issues due to auto switching sync modular .Wei ya chassis are good for only PC set up.

I run all my jamma boards in a duel res chassis which are Nanao only..

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Got a hold of a multimeter, measured the 12v while a game was running and it's all over the place, pretty sure I saw 18-20 at one point. Led blinking on the PSU for 12v as well go figure.

 

This site documents what might be the same problem I'm having.

 

I still need to measure the output of the transformer currently inside the machine, but everything thus far seems to be pointing to the picky PSU. Still no response sadly from the group I bought the cabinet from, not sure if I'm in any position to be throwing around names as of yet, I feel it's too soon.

 

I will admit though I've had a lot of fun troubleshooting so far.

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Interesting, what PSU is inside yours? And the stepdown if there is one?

 

I just took a look inside mine, the stepdown is has 115V out according to the label but I've yet to measure that with a multimeter, I don't know how to be honest. Based off how fussy the P271 appears to be, I'm becoming more and more confident a stepdown that outputs a proper 100V is the solution to this mess without doing any gutting and re-wiring. Guess I'll have to get a reading first.

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I've got this same cab.

Running tri res

Have run NZ Story though it, and no issues for me personally.

 

Strangely I could not find any way to configure the voltage for it.

 

that era of Taito pcb's need -5v for the sound mate

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I run 15khz jamma boards on this cab no issues. This cab is known to have a shitty chassis and power supply though. The power supply is also known to picky with stepdowns and requires one that can take 100v instead of 110v. I would look at that option. Americans with 110v mains usually use a 110 to 100 stepdown or replace it a Happy power supply.
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That's right. I measured the output of the stepdown inside this thing and it's giving 123V (although the spec sheets operating range of the P271 may as well be a crock of shit, it does say 85-115), I just need to find the time now to pick up a stepdown that actually outputs as close to 100V as possible. Has anyone here used the Tortech ones?

 

I've got a couple of options layed out, just a matter of getting to it! Pretty eager as I've got a TGM1 PCB on its way as well.

 

And thanks Savage, curious to see what's in yours.

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Ah, you got the good one :P

 

I replaced the stepdown with a proper 100V one that was reading 105V without load, booted up Puzzle Bobble. All good now! Sounds working, videos not being wonky anymore and no more blinking light on the LED, shame it wasn't tested properly before being sold as working but, whatever.

 

Thanks :)

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