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43"/27"/DMD VP build


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Yes it wasn't cheap but given its ease I'm loving it. And I figured that I'll only get to make 1 VP cab so I may as well go all out with it. It has slowed my ability to convince my wife I need to start another project however ;)

 

Here's a pic of the corner brackets I've done and one of how the DOF is sitting above the PC and below the play field TV

 

917545951_Insidecabinetcorners.thumb.jpg.31cc23056c9eff15a01fb21048a60c24.jpg

 

1246039940_InsideCabinetlookingforwards.thumb.jpg.ac769f2de55a38e0a1e73a8010877eec.jpg

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Yes it wasn't cheap but given its ease I'm loving it. And I figured that I'll only get to make 1 VP cab so I may as well go all out with it. It has slowed my ability to convince my wife I need to start another project however ;)

Cool :) Yep, that's kind of been my philosophy getting into this too - only gonna make one of these, so don't cut corners that I'll regret.

Haha! Never mind ... no new project means more time to enjoy the result of this project :D

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Yes it wasn't cheap but given its ease I'm loving it. And I figured that I'll only get to make 1 VP cab so I may as well go all out with it. It has slowed my ability to convince my wife I need to start another project however ;)

 

Here's a pic of the corner brackets I've done and one of how the DOF is sitting above the PC and below the play field TV

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]99611[/ATTACH]

 

Interesting brackets. IMO you'd be better to have a strip of pine quad the entire height of your corners, then use these leg plates:

http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/cabinet/legs/01-9296.html

That would give your cabinet all the bracing it will ever need.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]99612[/ATTACH]

 

Have you considered putting the side panel back onto your PC? Last thing you want is something to accidentally drop in there and cause damage and I find that it's a cheap insurance policy to keep the panel on. I've done a LOT of heat testing and your CPU and GPU will only run a couple of degrees warmer as a result.

 

Good to see you were able to install the EZ Install kit without too much hassle - I have another customer who go the full bells & whistles kit and he ended up having to disassemble pretty much everything and remount it onto new panels. I would be interested to "reverse engineer" one to see if I could replicate it and then offer a local alternative as it would no doubt be truckloads cheaper!

 

How comprehensive were the instructions for it from both a hardware and software point of view?

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Interesting brackets. IMO you'd be better to have a strip of pine quad the entire height of your corners, then use these leg plates:

http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/cabinet/legs/01-9296.html

That would give your cabinet all the bracing it will ever need.

 

Have you considered putting the side panel back onto your PC? Last thing you want is something to accidentally drop in there and cause damage and I find that it's a cheap insurance policy to keep the panel on. I've done a LOT of heat testing and your CPU and GPU will only run a couple of degrees warmer as a result.

 

Good to see you were able to install the EZ Install kit without too much hassle - I have another customer who go the full bells & whistles kit and he ended up having to disassemble pretty much everything and remount it onto new panels. I would be interested to "reverse engineer" one to see if I could replicate it and then offer a local alternative as it would no doubt be truckloads cheaper!

 

How comprehensive were the instructions for it from both a hardware and software point of view?

 

The proper brackets will probably be a future improvement but in theory these brackets should hold, it's exactly what cabinet makers use for dining chairs and they get a rough treatment but if/when they fail the corner brackets will be next.

 

I'm going to be putting the side back on the case and putting in 2 large exhaust fans, the side being off is actually causing some heat problems (even with the rear half of the base of the cabinet not being there at all) as the TV generates heat, the DOF generates heat and the PC generates heat, putting the side back on the PC case and adding 2 exhaust fans should improve airflow a fair bit.

 

The EZ Install kit is great but yes expensive. There's quite a bit in it and I'm not sure of the cost of a solenoid but I can't see them ever being a 'cheap' item, however it's probably not that difficult to reduce the price from $1400 to something more attainable. I was very happy that they used a variable power supply so I didn't have to ramp down the AU volts from 240V to 110V.

 

The instructions are good it's all on a github wiki page and they cover pretty much everything you'd ever want. My biggest criticism is that super simple stuff, like how to use a table or cabinet config file, are only brushed over where a bit more detail is good for new users. However actually extending the DOF to do new and cool things it really well detailed.

 

It's unfortunate that they've had to remount the kit, it fitted perfectly into the Williams Widebody plans that I've got and, as you've seen, with enough room to place a PC under it and the TV mounted above it. It's pretty much the perfect size for my cab, and they'll do a custom size on their site too if you provide specs.

 

The links to the docco are here:

http://www.zebsboards.com/index.php/forum/ezinstall/188-standard-kit-instructions-and-support-files#958

http://www.zebsboards.com/media/kunena/attachments/17/ZebsboardsEZInstallKitInstallation-3.pdf

http://directoutput.github.io/DirectOutput/index.html

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

My PDI Glass also arrived yesterday and slid right into place like a glove. No pics of this addition as it's really hard to get a photo of a pane of glass on top of a TV.

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I'm going to be putting the side back on the case and putting in 2 large exhaust fans, the side being off is actually causing some heat problems (even with the rear half of the base of the cabinet not being there at all) as the TV generates heat, the DOF generates heat and the PC generates heat, putting the side back on the PC case and adding 2 exhaust fans should improve airflow a fair bit.

 

My suggestion is 4 x 120mm case fans in the cabinet - 2 in the bottom panel near the front of the cab to draw air in, 2 at the rear panel to exhaust air. I've done that in a few cabs now and find it very effective.

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My suggestion is 4 x 120mm case fans in the cabinet - 2 in the bottom panel near the front of the cab to draw air in, 2 at the rear panel to exhaust air. I've done that in a few cabs now and find it very effective.

 

That is exactly how I did my last cab (when I bought it, it had none) and plan on doing it in the one I am getting the bits together for.

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My suggestion is 4 x 120mm case fans in the cabinet - 2 in the bottom panel near the front of the cab to draw air in, 2 at the rear panel to exhaust air. I've done that in a few cabs now and find it very effective.

 

This is what I was thinking too. Lots of air moving from the front to the back should be ideal.

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  • 2 weeks later...

The back box was the order of the day on the weekend.

 

Saturday was a big afternoon of hitting the jigsaw and router to cut and rebate the speaker, DMD and light bar holes. The Sunday it was time to assemble and paint.

 

All-in-all I'm really happy with how it's turned out. It needs a little work yet to patch up the paint and insert the door panels.

 

I've gone wit the a split top hinged to fold at 100mm from the back of the top towards the front for ease of access to the top monitor and a 400mm hinged upwards door on the back from the bottom towards the top of the backbox. this way when the backbox is folded down I can easily access the DMD, light bar and monitor plugs and also I'll be able to slide the monitor straight out of the top of the backbox. Both of these hinged panels also have large vents on them to allow for heat to escape.

 

I've gone away from Vesa mounting the top monitor to mounting it on a shelf above the DMD due to the fact that I could disassemble the monitor stand and with minor modifications (ie hack saw off part of the base plate) mount it firmly using the factory supplied mount. I feel this will be more stable and allow for easier removal of the monitor should it ever need to be replaced.

 

Below are a couple of pics from yesterday's effort. The backbox is not yet centered or fixed I't merely clamped on so I could see it in action, and to work out how blinded I'll get from the light bar. During the week I plan on centering it and adding the side hinges.

 

2058221839_Backboxprepaint.thumb.jpg.71666be103bd5093c4f6735d7ded8fe5.jpg

 

1513414725_cabinetplusbackbox.thumb.jpg.b3fe22e58b2d64b01967543cd4528f07.jpg

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Interesting decision to put the light bar toward the bottom of the backbox, rather than in the lower cabinet underneath the glass. With the DMD unit there as well it should make for quite a light show!

 

It sure does, and yes I was torn between the 2 options but with the dimensions of the 27" screen meant there would be aobut 200mm of dead space and the fact that a lot of the tables are drawn to an aspect where tilting the 43" screen seemed to look better I went with above the glass rather than below.

 

It's quite the light show but as an adult standing above it it's not blinding. I tested this mainly with Attack From Mars, as it's a flasher, and it wasn't too bad, even with the lights in the room off.

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  • 1 month later...

Oops after all this time assuming the PC I was using was a Core 2 Duo I actually looked at it tonight and found it's an i7!

 

This is what happens when you inherit other people's old PCs I guess that are already assembled.

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Oops after all this time assuming the PC I was using was a Core 2 Duo I actually looked at it tonight and found it's an i7!

 

This is what happens when you inherit other people's old PCs I guess that are already assembled.

 

What a shame for you! :rolleyes

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  • 2 months later...

Finally after months of my 3d printer being out of action it's fixed so I have been able to print the finishing brackets, speaker covers and topper for my build. Here is a pic as it stands today.

 

I've added flashing buttons connected to the PacLED which is part of my EZ Install Kit DOF and next week I'll be adding undercab RGB LED strip and RGB LED strip inside the speaker holes. From there the topper will be receiving EL wire to make it appear like a neon sign and then the cab is complete.

 

It's been a labour of love but it's now running perfectly with most tables, I have added an F3 button below the table to reset VPinMAME when I get sticky flippers, etc. This solution has all but fixed table glitches. I'm also well underway with VPX table replacements.

 

Thank you to all who have helped on here, I'm looking forward to continuing as part of this awesome community.

 

1178355276_Completedmachine.thumb.jpg.e9db6afe67938d7dcd540b5705f113fc.jpg

 

 

Arcade.thumb.jpg.19a6f0d6c6a9cc50669141380b6b1946.jpg

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  • 2 months later...

After an accidental breakage of the screen (I tilted it up into the rear glass slide when working inside the cab which smashed the screen) I have replace the playfield TV and added under/rear cab LED strip lighting. And I've also added a Flynn's Arcade topper which uses EL wire.

 

I think now my VP cab build is complete.

 

Below is a picture of the final product. Hopefully in the next day or so I'll get a video of it playing and upload it.

 

20170502_174816.thumb.jpg.5ae37952179bc93bff913460f4c7a1ab.jpg

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