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gottlieb lawman 2 player em 1971


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Working on the coin door today and it's coming along alright.

 

I door didn't come up too bad, you can still see the pit marks but a lot better than it was. It still needs a final polish.

1734799194_2017-11-2614_39_28.thumb.jpg.4021ae49e2a22e73339438de2fdcdc39.jpg

 

Luckily I got a spare door from @illawarra_steelers and I was able to swap most of the door mechs for nicer looking ones which look like bronze or brass.

434380048_2017-11-2614_39_53.thumb.jpg.bd21d2b2932de73b80044c108dd97017.jpg

 

I'm now at the stage where I have to work out the wiring.

Because I had to replace the cabinet, I went from a 3 coin slots to 2, so I have the change the wiring to cater for that.

 

When I got the door mechs, they where just in a pile as you see them in the pic, but I think I can work out where they go.

1957866382_2017-11-2614_35_10.thumb.jpg.e65c31abe0b18a3da584e0491a392fe0.jpg

 

What I want to do is to wire it up so that when I press the red button on the front, it starts a game regardless whether there is a credit or not, and also remove the 3rd coin mech wiring.

 

I have taken the following pics but it is hard to see the wires colors.

229422930_2017-11-2614_40_55.thumb.jpg.b62b8647343b510cadba73111081ce65.jpg

541126264_2017-11-2614_41_01.thumb.jpg.c7e7f18097a691c13df81547c6822908.jpg

259686645_2017-11-2614_41_05.thumb.jpg.7d900df3a255bcbd273cbac204eb2795.jpg

 

The 3 wires going to a taped part is actually the bottom part of a coil that has broken off.

 

I will see if I can get better pics which might be more helpful.

 

Any help would be much appreciated :)

 

 

Update ..

I found how to set to free play, so ignore that part.

Edited by thejudge
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Contact in the credit unit?.

 

Yep

 

gtbfree1.thumb.jpg.b674e4f86528877f67823e22bb7dffdc.jpg

 

Gottlieb Free Play.

There is one switch that controls free play on a Gottlieb game. Set the credit wheel to zero credits (shows zero credits through the backglass). On the stepper unit there will be a notched wheel with a pin sticking out. This pin should have opened two switches only when the credit wheel is at zero credits. Adjust only the smaller of the two switch contacts (located closest to the backglass) so it's permanently closed (or use a jumper wire), regardless of the credit wheel position.

 

Taken from http://www.pinrepair.com

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Yep

 

 

 

Gottlieb Free Play.

There is one switch that controls free play on a Gottlieb game. Set the credit wheel to zero credits (shows zero credits through the backglass). On the stepper unit there will be a notched wheel with a pin sticking out. This pin should have opened two switches only when the credit wheel is at zero credits. Adjust only the smaller of the two switch contacts (located closest to the backglass) so it's permanently closed (or use a jumper wire), regardless of the credit wheel position.

 

 

That's it. I wasn't quote sure you knew but apparently you do.

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A bit more work done over the last couple of days, and a few more hickups. This pin just keeps giving me surprises :)

 

I worked out the coin door wiring and the door and everything is now on the pin.

1493079514_2017-12-0211_31_47.thumb.jpg.b1412115381bca071f3d3cd64f18f4dd.jpg

 

I also had a problem with the top arch but that has now been sorted out.

 

The next thing to do was to put on the new side rails, should be pretty easy as I have done it several times before with no issues.

I positioned the left side rail on and just put one nail to hold it in place, spot on.

592459317_2017-12-0211_24_19.thumb.jpg.44989c44a41b1bd69b82fb61b5797e30.jpg

 

On the right side, for some reason, the button is at a different height, about 25mm higher.

I thought that it might be just the cabinet as this was a replacement cab, but the original trashed cabinet was the same, right button higher?

195228040_2017-12-0211_25_19.thumb.jpg.2a1be09bd186de0ff788b017f483307e.jpg

 

Here a pic with the new rail on the top and the old one underneath.

153706932_2017-12-0211_26_21.thumb.jpg.1ddb54c5decff8d5ae2a2b267f4f7d26.jpg

 

I am using @Railways rails but I must stress that the problems isn't with Jeff's rails, I have used them before with no issues and I will re-use these rails on another project.

There just seems that there is a difference with these old cabinets that I wasn't aware of, so this post is just a heads up to double check before ordering new rails for old pins.

 

Now I have an issue on what to do? The rails I removed where pretty scratch and one had a dent, but I might have to reused them, bummer :(

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I had a similar problem when I put new rails on my Gotlieb Covergirl and all I did was lifted up the rail a little on that side just enough to split the difference with the gap in the flipper hole and visually you can't tell any difference at all

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I have looked at the original rails again, and I think it will be too much effort for little reward to fix them up and I will never be happy with them.

 

My latest idea, which I might go with, is to bondo the hole and redrill it in the correct lower position. The rails will hide the bondo etc so it should be an easy fix, I just have to get the right drill bit, so a trip to Bunning's.

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Not sure about bondo for this? Think I'd cut a tight fit wood plug and glue this in, then use two bits of scrap wood well clamped to temporarily sandwich the cab with plug in between. Now drill thru the whole lot and remove the temporary pieces. Just a thought feel free to ignore :)
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Not sure about bondo for this? Think I'd cut a tight fit wood plug and glue this in, then use two bits of scrap wood well clamped to temporarily sandwich the cab with plug in between. Now drill thru the whole lot and remove the temporary pieces. Just a thought feel free to ignore :)

 

I'll think about the wood plug approach as it might be a stronger final result.

 

No point clamping the wood and drilling thru as I need to drill 2 holes. The first one is about 23mm, and goes about half way thru, and the second 14mm hole goes all the way. There is a metal bush that goes in the 14mm hole and the button slides in and out of this. This is a 71 Gottlieb with metal flipper buttons before the new style.

 

Thanks for the advise Dave, I'll just ignore half of what you said :)

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I'm thinking two pieces of wood, drill the correct size hole through one, clamp the undrilled piece to the other drilled piece and use a holesaw, again, the right sized hole but offset the hole the required amount so you just are cutting a piece like this...( sorry about using a picture of the moon but it was handy to explain what I mean)....

 

6875618702_ed5fb44646_b.jpg

 

Now you can liquid nails that scallop in and maybe get a panel nail in to hold it in place.

 

The reason I would take this approach is you won't be stressing a complete hole plug when drilling it as you should be able to file the untouched portion of the cabinet with a round file especially if you oval the existing hole prior to putting in the repair scallop.

 

An alternative method would be to clamp a piece of wood inside the cabinet so you can center a holesaw and offset the holesaw to the proper location and grab the scallop cut out with the holesaw to glue back in the now oval shaped hole.

 

At least then the material will match the existing cab material.

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No reason you can't drill twice with clamped wood - just need to measure the depth. I reckon you might bust the bondo or plug out of the cab side if it's not supported.

 

I'm thinking two pieces of wood, drill the correct size hole through one, clamp the undrilled piece to the other drilled piece and use a holesaw, again, the right sized hole but offset the hole the required amount so you just are cutting a piece like this...( sorry about using a picture of the moon but it was handy to explain what I mean)....

 

Now you can liquid nails that scallop in and maybe get a panel nail in to hold it in place.

 

The reason I would take this approach is you won't be stressing a complete hole plug when drilling it as you should be able to file the untouched portion of the cabinet with a round file especially if you oval the existing hole prior to putting in the repair scallop.

 

An alternative method would be to clamp a piece of wood inside the cabinet so you can center a holesaw and offset the holesaw to the proper location and grab the scallop cut out with the holesaw to glue back in the now oval shaped hole.

 

At least then the material will match the existing cab material.

 

Thanks guys, I understand what you saying and i'll give it a go

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Hi Trev. Currently away on hols. Sorry to hear you have an abnormally with rail fitment. Happy to help by making a one off at N/C. Can you supply the X & Y location of where you need the hole to be and I'll email Mark to ask him to knock one up. Cheers jeff
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Hi Trev. Currently away on hols. Sorry to hear you have an abnormally with rail fitment. Happy to help by making a one off at N/C. Can you supply the X & Y location of where you need the hole to be and I'll email Mark to ask him to knock one up. Cheers jeff

 

Hi Jeff,

I have pretty much sorted it out now, I should have finished moving the hole by tonight, so the existing rail should be fine.

Thanks for the great service and offer for a one off rail, I'll keep it in mind in case I come across this situation again.

Thanks

Trevor

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I have now fixed the right flipper button and the side rails are on, looks good.

 

I have a few things that I want to tidy up but I'm at the stage where I can at least turn it on.

I have never seen it working and don't know if it was even working when it was stored away.

I was pretty sure it wasn't going to work considering the condition it was in, but I flicked the switch.

 

The coin door lights came on, I put credits on the game and pressed the start button and nothing.

I pushed down the switch that the ball rolls over when it ejects and it did do a target bank reset and turn the scores reels a few spots, not enough to reset, and that was it.

 

Looks like a long road ahead for this one :(

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  • 1 month later...

Just back from a new years cruise, so it's back to reality and a diet :)

 

I've been looking at the Lawman and still no closer in getting it going, so I think it might be time to get professional help.

At least once it's working I can sort out the other issues and hopefully move on.

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Hi Trevor .

Just read through this whole thread again to see what you had posted about trying to get this game running but there is very little info .

 

Maybe if you post what you have checked/tested we could give you some ideas on where to look.

 

Bit of a shame to have to pay a tech to sort it out for you when you have lots of knowledge and experience on here to tap into .:)

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Hi Trevor .

Just read through this whole thread again to see what you had posted about trying to get this game running but there is very little info .

Maybe if you post what you have checked/tested we could give you some ideas on where to look.

Bit of a shame to have to pay a tech to sort it out for you when you have lots of knowledge and experience on here to tap into .:)

 

Yeah, I guess you might be right, I'll give it another go and see if anyone can help.

 

It's just sometimes I get to a point where I don't want to look at it because I can't figure out why it's not working :(

When that happens I go onto other projects like the jukebox wallbox I did recently and I've now also starting on pinball pool.

 

So i'll start again and see how I go.

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Agree with dave, need to know exactly what happens from power up. Follow the startup sequence helps.

Manually activate the START relay (with outhole switch closed) & see what happens.Remember high voltages around that area.

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Yeah, I guess you might be right, I'll give it another go and see if anyone can help.

 

It's just sometimes I get to a point where I don't want to look at it because I can't figure out why it's not working :(

When that happens I go onto other projects like the jukebox wallbox I did recently and I've now also starting on pinball pool.

 

So i'll start again and see how I go.

 

If your up for a visit, I can drop over and have a look if you want.

 

Sometimes a look through different eyes can help. I can't promise we will have it going but I have a bit of an idea how EMs work.

 

I'd like to see how that Pinball Pool is coming along anyway.

 

P.m me if your interested.

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If your up for a visit, I can drop over and have a look if you want.

 

Sometimes a look through different eyes can help. I can't promise we will have it going but I have a bit of an idea how EMs work.

 

I'd like to see how that Pinball Pool is coming along anyway.

 

P.m me if your interested.

 

Thanks for the Help Steve, much appreciated :)

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A quick update and a big thanks to @Autosteve who came around today to help to try and get the pin working.

 

I had worked out previously that it would partially start by activating the start relay so we started there.

After adjusting numerous switches, we managed to get it to a stage where the start cycle would almost complete, except for the ball ejecting.

We found that as well as the ball eject not working, the right flipper & right kicker were also not working.

The problem was that there was no power getting to the mechs and we believed that there should have been a connection between the flippers that was missing, so we put one in and those mechs started working :)

 

The next thing was that the right flipper wasn't working.

Steve did a few tests and found that there was a dead short which was causing the problem. After some detective work he found that someone had cut the wire from the 'E' closes gate relay and had hard wired it to the common wire, causing the short. Not sure why this was done?

That was fixed that and then the ball eject, right flipper & right kicker started to work :)

237190398_2018-01-1921_38_34.thumb.jpg.48441f741cc80fab7379e412dcebb524.jpg

 

Side note, not happy with the flippers, they are going to need a bit a work.

 

The last major problem was getting the game to start from the replay button.

We tried for hours trying to get it to work and we think the main problem is with the wiring on the door.

We had some wins and we thought we had it, then it wouldn't work the next time.

It ended up that we adjusted something and now it doesn't complete the start cycle again :realmad:

 

At this stage I realised that it was 6:45, as the wife almost had dinner ready, so it was time to pack it up.

Time flies when you get your head down trying to sort something out.

 

Anyway, another big thanks again to Steve for his time to help me out today, I think it was about 4-5 hours.

I learnt a lot more about EM pins and also how to strip wires with your thumb nail :o

 

I have a few things to tidy up on the pin now and get it ready for the next attempt.

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