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Capcom CPS1 "C" Board Repair (Pic Heavy)


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My recent purchase of some cheap CPS1 boards off @feeras which included a full SF2CE and Daimakaimura (Ghouls n Ghosts) got me in the mood to pull out several boards that no longer worked which included my 2 Striders, Final Fight and the Ghouls n Ghosts.

 

As per the for sale thread when I got the boards I got lucky because the SF2 was fully working and up until now I hadn't had a fully working A board in years. Every time I pulled my boards out to check them they either had severe graphics corruption or just didn't work.

 

When I first tried the Ghouls I got a blank screen however I found by pushing down on the C board's asic the background returned and pushing harder the sprites.

 

IMAG0657.jpg IMAG0656.jpg

 

A close inspection of the Asic CPS-B-01 I could see the lifted pins.

IMAG0662.jpg

This pic only shows one side, there were lifted pins on almost every corner.

After swapping my other C boards around they too got worse and worse just by pulling and putting them back on the boards I was testing. Looking at the pic you can see how small the feet are on these chips, pretty bad actually, no wonder these are causing so much problems. The ONLY solution is to reflow them.

Common issues caused by bad joints on the C board.

Background Missing

Sprites Missing

Background and/or sprites doing some weird psychedelic colour flickering and cycling.

I've also read you can get vertical bars but I haven't seen it.

 

IMAG0658.jpg

Just a word of caution. Upon inspecting my C board I noticed some damage due to my careless storage. Make sure you wrap these boards in bubble wrap and avoid placing anything on top of the C board, even leaning them next to one other can cause damage. I can see why in later games the ASIC is on the bottom of the C board rather than the top.

I used the board above from my spare Strider as a extreme example however this one I bought this way and luckily as bad as it looks the pins are still separated. This board has still developed problems as listed above just from from general testing moving it across several B boards.

If you find your Pins are slightly bent just use a tiny jewelers flat head to separate. Personally I use my craft knife.

1350493086-28729900.jpg

 

If you want to have a go at reflowing you'll need the following.

A good temperature controlled soldering iron, I use a Hakko FX888D with T18-CF3 Tip @ about 350c temp wise.

Good quality Flux.

Some isopropyl alcohol for cleanup.

Patients

You might want to practice on some scrap boards.

 

IMAG0664.jpg IMAG0667.jpg

Here's 2 of the boards reflowed.

IMAG0666.jpg

and here's one cleaned up. After I reflow the pins I take a small screwdriver and gently press each pin to make 100% sure its set.

 

IMAG0668.jpg

These are the 2 products I use for cleaning then clear coating. I gave them a good coat of PCB clear to help prevent corrosion.

 

IMAG0696.jpg

Finished. The pic doesn't do them justice, they look great in person like a cleared pinball playfield lol

 

And the results.

IMAG0702.jpg

IMAG0705.jpgIMAG0703.jpg

Strider 100%

 

IMAG0698.jpg

IMAG0700.jpgIMAG0701.jpg

Ghouls n Ghost 100%

 

IMAG0697.jpgIMAG0679.jpg

Final Fight 100%

Actually I'm going to put this in its own thread as the repair was more involved.

 

IMAG0706.jpgIMAG0707.jpgIMAG0708.jpg

 

Now this is my Spare Strider. The C board is now working 100% however I decided to put this up to show what it looks like when MASK roms go bad with the vertical lines.

You can see the roms I've marked as bad, I just never ordered replacement roms until about a week ago so when they arrive I'll fix this board up 100%.

Just a side note I had to pull a working program rom off my other Strider board at 8H which is missing in the pic to make this board boot up. The replacement roms for these are 27C400 NOT the more common 27C4096 (which I have heaps of).

 

So not a bad result, several games resurrected I threw on the bleh pile.

Keep and eye out for my CPS1 CPU and Final Fight repair.

Edited by Arcade King
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  • 2 weeks later...
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I found a SF2CE C board floating around in my draw CPS-B-21, I'm not sure where it came from and I don't have the B board it belongs to. Anyhoo when I was working on my C boards in the post above when I plugged this board in it did work however the colours were cycling in some sort of drug induced psychedelic effect.

 

IMAG0775.jpg IMAG0773.jpg

I reflowed this board along with the others however it didn't make any difference so I put it to one side.

Well I decided to pull it out again today and have another crack at it.

I observed if I rubbed my finger along the back of the Asic from pin 81 to to around 100 it would effect the screen. Using the logic probe I had a look at every pin from 81 on to see what it was doing and when I got to 88 it would blank the screen out and do other weird stuff and the probe was showing no activity. This pin is floating.

 

IMAG0765.jpg

With my multimeter on continuity test I started tracing each pin back and with the help of known good SF2CE C board I found Pin 88 traces back to Pin 19 of the PAL at IC7.

 

IMAG0767.jpg

I removed the socket so I could see what was going on and found the track rot causing the issue which is circled. I've inserted my .6mm nozzle cleaner from my desoldering station so you can see the through hold pin 19 is suppose to be connected to.

 

IMAG0768.jpg

Here's the other side and you can just make out where the hole is on the other size.

 

IMAG0776.jpg

To keep things nice and neat I fixed the track underneath from the through hole to Pin 19.

 

IMAG0794.jpg IMAG0790.jpg

Tested and working :) Another nice spare, too bad I don't have the B board that goes with it.

 

IMAG0797.jpg

IMAG0799.jpg IMAG0798.jpg

The C-Board also works on Ghouls n Ghosts and Strider just fine. :)

 

IMAG0796.jpg

Shame this old World Warriors board isn't the same as the SF2CE one, its dead and pretty much good for nothing. Would have been fun to do a conversion to GnG.

 

IMAG0800.jpg

Anyway another win for team CPS1

Edited by Arcade King
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  • 2 weeks later...

Nice fixes!

 

If you have bent pins on the QFP customs I recommend you put a small flathead on the foot of the pin and press down with that while you use another or that craft knife to separate out the pins. That will help keep the twisting motion of the pin from possibly lifting or weakening the solder pad on the board.

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  • 1 year later...

Sorry for bumping an old thread.

 

But I must say that this post gives me a bit of hope. I have a SF2CE C-board that does random cycling as well. Someone gave me a shipping damaged CPS2 A-board and I was going to as a donor for the logic chip. Removing SMD chips is a scary proposition for a novice like me. But I'll take another look at the C-board and see if I have lifted pins. If as you say this fixes the cycling issues, I hope that simplifies the job. I have no oscilloscope at my disposal, nor the skills to use it.

 

I must say, this forum is the absolute authority for CPS1 repairs! Thanks for having me.

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I love/hate CPS1! I'm too scared to pull my boards out to play them.. lol. :)

Like most of us I think.

 

As per C-boards repairs I've replaced some dead CPS-B-XX chips by the one you can find in CPS2 A-board (CPS-B-21). Thing is not all C-boards have the same pinout so you might have to reroute some traces. Also some requires additional PALs (I've got a C-board with an IOC1 I've added and is maintained only by wires :o).

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Actually on the topic of CPS1 C-boards, maybe someone can solve a small mystery for me.

 

I've got a SF2 Champion-Rainbow hack CPS1 boardset. In 2006 it experienced distorted graphics.

 

Got some guidance from Mad Mike (used to come on here) and long story short, found that pushing down and holding down on the main chip on the C board got the graphics working good - at least temporarily. He then pointed out a couple of broken legs. Concluded it was a stuffed C board. Identical situation to what @Arcade King diagnosed in this thread

 

I had a CPS1 Street Fighter 2 Hyper boardset working perfect. Borrowed its identical model C board (CPS-B-21) and put it onto my Champion/Rainbow set - game wouldnt boot at all. Tried reseating again etc. and no good.

 

In fact, I even tried taking ROMS 21,22,23 from my champion-rainbow board, moved them across to the same positions on my hyper board - no boot.

 

After further advice from Mike, he said to take the 2x small PAL chips from the faulty C board from the Champion/Rainbow boardset, and put it onto the HyperFight C board - after doing this, my Champion-Rainbow edition booted up perfect with graphics perfect again.

 

I ended up buying a spare C board, moving across those 2 PAL chips to it and its been perfect ever since to this day.

 

What mystifies me though, is that I thought a fair majority of Hyper Fighting boards are just Champion Edition boards anyway, with simply ROMS 21,22,23 reprogrammed to be Hyper Fighting i.e. that is, no change in the 2 PAL chips on the C board required.

 

In fact, Capcom used to sell Hyper Fighting upgrade kits to operators and instructions which consisted of just those three ROM chips, and nothing to change on the C board. See below pics

 

If that's the case, then why does my Rainbow edition board require those two specific PAL chips to be present on its C board? By rights, champion edition and hyper fighting should be able to share the same C board and its PAL chips.. right?

 

Do rom-hack versions of Street Fighter II Champion (Rainbow/red wave etc) require accompanying "hacked" PAL chips on the C board to run? i.e. are those 2 PAL chips likely modified from original?

 

SFCEUP.jpg

 

SF2CEUP2.jpg

Edited by mrjamma
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Notice the b and c boards do evolve pal chip in the sf series

 

http://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/CPS1

 

In other words b/c pairs must be compatible

 

 

The A board also evolved see http://arcade.ym2149.com/pcb/cps1/index.html

At a certain point the frequency increased

 

I've got two sfii cps1 sets and each a b c is totally different

The newer c has the chip underside to protect it

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  • 1 year later...

Now this is my Spare Strider. The C board is now working 100% however I decided to put this up to show what it looks like when MASK roms go bad with the vertical lines.

You can see the roms I've marked as bad, I just never ordered replacement roms until about a week ago so when they arrive I'll fix this board up 100%.

 

Thanks for this post. I have a Street Fighter 2 cps-1 game with Rainbow Edition on it. I believe it was a hyper fighting edition originally because of marquee that was on cabinet.

It is suffering form bold vertical lines such as your strider. Iv'e tried cleaning pcb's and re seating chips and had a close look at the c board. The asic on c board looks pretty bad with what looks like rust on some legs and possible lifting. Iv'e pressed down on it very hard while on and has zero effect on graphics.

The vertical lines looks identical to what your strider looks like. I have ordered a chip programer and eprom eraser for a repair attempt.

My question is how do you determine what roms have gone bad? is this done by dumping chips and to a rom id site like http://romident.coinopflorida.com/ ?

Also when roms are identified as bad how do you know what replacement chip to look for?

Any help appreciated as I will be attempting this soon.

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CPS 1 boards from memory generally use 4 meg mask roms for the graphics which are equivalent to 27c400 so set your programmer to that rom. I've also seen 27c4096 used.

Generally I found when a mask rom was bad it my programmer would report pins out of socket.

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