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Thread: Looking for Convergence Strips

  1. #21
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    Let us know how it goes

  2. #22
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    I received the strips Yesterday, Cheers Pauly. I'll pull my tub out this weekend and have a play with it.

  3. #23
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  4. #24
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    I have since changed my mind completely on these things. Just redid the setup on a tube from scratch, pulled the yoke away, did the purity and then the rings, and afterward a few dynamic (corner) issues remained. The little strips, inserted under the yoke the deeper the better and then jiggled around, which part i'd never before realised was needed to see what effect they can have in slightly different positions, cleaned things up quite nicely. The end result is not perfect, but it's a fair bit closer than i could have come without the strips.

    So yeah, they work a treat. I was obviously not doing things right.

    I'd happily pay someone to send me another dozen, with a big thank you to @pauly540 for the first lot
    Last edited by buttersoft; 21st December 2017 at 08:08 AM.

  5. #25
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    Before you start this procedure, I presume you have some idea of what you are doing

    You have tried moving the 3 rings that control each colours convergence and one that controls all the colours I image?. They are the four, usually white, black or grey rectangular pieces hanging off the outer neck assembly.

    They are often held in place by glue which you need to remove so you can re-adjust them without breaking the tabs clean off the rings they control.

    Put the machine into a cross hatch pattern and using a mirror and working from behind the tube looking into the refection of the mirror, start turning them one at a time bearing in mine now that you have broken the glue, they will all move so you must hold the ones you don't wish to move.

    The object is to get the red, green and blue, one at a time, all to line up at various points on the cross hatch with more important being in the center of the tube. Each ring controls a colour and one is a master that controls all.

    You will never get the whole tube perfect, that is exactly what the magnets are for.

    Once you have the majority of the tube converging nicely, (try to get all the errors in one corner of the tube if any), now grab a magnet about the size of a 10 cent piece was the type I used setting up brand new Taito tubes.

    I have seen them in all shapes though, it really doesn't mater as long as they aren't to over powering.

    Now move the magnet on the side of the tube you have issues with and watch the results. You will find the closer to the neck, the more influence. The more you move away from the affected area you are trying to fix, the more you will pull the correct part of the tube over however you won't upset that part of the tube as all the three colours will come over together if you know what I mean.

    You may need to re-adjust the colour rings when you see what the magnet is doing a couple of times before locating the correct position to mount the magnet or magnets.

    Some tubes are an arse and require multiple magnets but never more than three.

    Position the magnet using BluTac as a temporary holder of the magnet.

    Once you have a good "compromise" for the whole tube and after several goes have come to the conclusion this is the best you will get, remove the magnet, put silicon on the attaching side and using a small patch of tape to locate it till the silicon drys. No one ever removed the tape.

    Glue the tabs back in place and the tube is done, ready for the next brand new Defender cab, oww sorry, just reminiscing.

    Be very aware of the HT lead as it, while the tube is powered up, will continue to bite you, not just once like a powered down tube would.

    Good luck, be patient and very careful. When I was first taught this procedure, it was taking close to an hour for me to get the tubes right. After about 50 tubes it was down to a 5 minute job per tube.

  6. #26
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    This fixed my dynamic convergence a few months back and now siliconed into place. Has worked perfectly


  7. #27
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    This sorted out all of my convergence and purity issues once and for all and gives a crisper picture without using dangerous high voltages and impossible to obtain spare parts.







    LED_Monitor.jpg

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Autosteve View Post
    Each ring controls a colour and one is a master that controls all.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Homepin View Post
    This sorted out all of my convergence and purity issues once and for all and gives a crisper picture without using dangerous high voltages and impossible to obtain spare parts.

    Yes BUT, these game look better with a less crisp picture, disguising their modest resolution, our blacks don't glow, our colour is so vibrant we can choose to put a tinted plexi in front or not, our scanlines look better (because we have them), we can hear that the machine is on and taunting us to fiddle with it and it's dangerously high voltage, the challenge of keeping it working is a badge of honor to the hobby - plus we have @Jomac and we can also balance our beer on its descendants.


  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by g5k View Post
    Yes BUT, these game look better with a less crisp picture, disguising their modest resolution, our blacks don't glow, our colour is so vibrant we can choose to put a tinted plexi in front or not, our scanlines look better (because we have them), we can hear that the machine is on and taunting us to fiddle with it and it's dangerously high voltage, the challenge of keeping it working is a badge of honor to the hobby - plus we have @Jomac and we can also balance our beer on its descendants.

    Working with CRTs is one of the best parts of this hobby. I often turn all my machines on and stand there with a beer, just basking in the warm CRT glow When non-arcade friends come around, they always marvel at the CRTs and how good they look.

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