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Astro City - refurb tech questions etc


drguild

Question

Instead of posting multiple questions / posts ill use this for my technical stuff.

 

First thing I noticed is the inside of the shell is very rough and that It needed a good turpentine clean with a cloth to get rid of dust attacked to the inside, but as it was rough it was hard to clean due to friction and scraping.

 

So does anyone a product to spray over the inside so its a nice finish for future cleaning?

 

The inside may need some touchup light spray black on a few places then to smooth it all over for future wiping.

 

Overall the cab is in decent condition, I have a worklog on another forum here, which is publicly viewable there's already loads of images and I'd rather not have to post everything twice. Also some questions there most I know about, but feel free to chime in here with answers or solutions.

 

Basically using this one for more technical stuff as the other forum I doubt would get the traffic to answer them.

 

So firstly I'm interested in really smoothing the inside by spraying something over it so its no longer rough and easy to clean.

 

I also have a Megatouch 2008 system that came with the cabinet not working, but seems the motherboard has died and the system won't work swapping the hdd into a working system I have here. I also have all the components on that.

 

I imaged the HDD before testing it as the boot device,

 

Anyone know if its possible to get the touch glass / controller working stand alone?

 

These are the questions for now.

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Dark green looks semi not really better than nothing ok in the pictures i have seen online.But if you owned a ferrari you'd want it red not maroon :) ...

 

What will your admin panel have ?

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The easiest coin acess is through the slot :) They can be adjusted for coins/tokens. or install a credit button on the coin return silver thingy. or install another button where the coins come out.

 

You can get jamma pass thru headphone jacks that can be mounted in a button.

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Francoberasi/media/Wiring%20sales/Audionoswitchadapter2.jpg.html

usb/headphone jacks through the underneath lock holes.

 

I would be thinking about cutting up underneath the control panel before I touched one of the iconic parts of the astro city.

 

egret 2's in tainto's Hey have a headphone jack and volume knob mounted in the bezel which is kinda cool. there is pictures online the e2's usually under blue light.

 

 

Do a heap more reading before cutting anything up.there are so many awesome examples of dudes turning there cabs into clown cars they pack that much stuff inside with buttons,switches, lights ,3 consoles mame pc & a pcb without damaging the machine.

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The easiest coin acess is through the slot :) They can be adjusted for coins/tokens. or install a credit button on the coin return silver thingy. or install another button where the coins come out.

 

You can get jamma pass thru headphone jacks that can be mounted in a button.

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Francoberasi/media/Wiring%20sales/Audionoswitchadapter2.jpg.html

usb/headphone jacks through the underneath lock holes.

 

I would be thinking about cutting up underneath the control panel before I touched one of the iconic parts of the astro city.

 

egret 2's in tainto's Hey have a headphone jack and volume knob mounted in the bezel which is kinda cool. there is pictures online the e2's usually under blue light.

 

 

Do a heap more reading before cutting anything up.there are so many awesome examples of dudes turning there cabs into clown cars they pack that much stuff inside with buttons,switches, lights ,3 consoles mame pc & a pcb without damaging the machine.

 

Don't worry about this mod I have done a lot of thinking and sleeping on it, I'm sure I can pull it off and it'll be really discreet and look like nothing much has changed especially outside unless you look super close, the inside will just be more of a box looking as if its part of the underside of the cp, with the key latch it will go even more unnoticeable or just look like some repair work to the latch screw holes.

 

One reason why first I want to see if I can take of the 100 yen sticker without damaging it is to reuse it, there's decals etc around to buy or one could reprint your own.

 

Here is the underside of the 100 yen sign the screw holes are at the top of the sign leaving more space underneath them for the sockets the latch is a rectangle plate, you can see the exact plate here at the bottom left and hopefully what I mean about it being discreet underneath also.

 

Yes I know some people may get upset at or beg not to do the mod but I am going to make it as discreet as possible that's why I chose this area to do it as I also want to the cabinet to look totally normal without any modifications done from the outside and why I wouldn't like to put buttons or sockets in buttons etc. I already have a actual vision in my mind of it and I would mock it up if I had the skills all I could mock up is just a box around the screw holes the same inside texture which is all you will see.

 

100 yen underside.jpg

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like this ?

 

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,120617.msg1343138.html#msg1343138

 

 

Discreet as possible wouldn't be on the front dash of your car, I'm not going to let up :) The beautiful retrofuturism of candy cabs is half their charm.

 

There are plans online to build a generic woody :lol

 

Agreed discrete won't be on the dash but likewise you have stuff on a pc and in cars under flaps in the case some flaps contain usb plugs the power switch etc.

 

Now I might to have to shop it up to show you so if I do it'll give me a visual idea.

 

It won't be as stand out as that, mine won't have a random hole cut on the face of the surface with stands out, which I do not want, at least my hole is already recessed and is kinda in the design and the area looks like a box already and is hidden with a 100 yen sticker before I even start and is designed to look normal like there's no random hole.

 

My panel be a recessed box under the 100 yen sticker between the cp latch and the 100 yen sticker on the outside with a curcuit board of buttons then the sockets inline with the circuit board for height underneath.

 

The switches will be the micro switches aka this.

 

Update: and here is a crappy mockup in gimp showing basically what I'm going to do this is not a schematic with the sockets and everything that I will work out later, this is a crappy visual showing what I mean of the panel for orio :P obviously it'll look normal and a manufactured part of the panel and if someone really wanted can later be sealed again with no issues and showing due to the curves and its already recessed with a sticker thing, the reversed 100 yen sticker is to show it'll still be there on the outside of the lid and look normal like there's no buttons there when closed.

 

button panel.jpg

Edited by drguild
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Didn't see you liked the post orio1 obviously seems I alleviated some of your concerns about the design of my hidden panel with the mockup :)

 

I'm taking design aesthetics kinda importantly with this as while I want some modifications to bring it up to home and multiple uses, I want it all to look like it's properly manufactured into the current design and to look in ways native and normal from the outside at first glance as I don't like ruining the stock look myself.

 

Anyway the update.

 

Jomac sorted out the screen a week ago thanks again to him. Would have liked to see it working but that will have to wait for my hardware etc, I'm just scared of damaging it again or something and if the screen isn't calibrated or showing images properly, I would assume Jomac tested it there himself with a image just to confirm it was all fixed and working properly.

 

I updated my post on the other site just some more worklogs with wiring checks etc have a PS2 to Jamma board here a clone of the MGCD, cant wait to test it out sometime and I need a extension with some breakout connectors and stuff as these boards are slightly non Jamma standard with a couple pinouts. Also found a UVC video converter online I grabbed as they are rare and can do 15/24k conversions when the Gnobes (excuse spelling) only does 15k yep know about 1-1 scaling on the arcade videocard etc still planned eventually this is for other things and testing / initial setup etc.

 

I figured out the Jamma monitor pinout it's a "6 pin JST NH" female socket anyone know where to get a JST NH male header? All I see is female on giz10p and other sites.

 

I could swap to JST-V from the Jamma deluxe harness but the same issue would happen, I would need to find a single male socket as the official site for the JST-V only does bulk orders 10+ pieces.

 

This is so I can build a Jamma video out to dsub adaptor which I need to do as I have the PS2 and a Dottori Kun board coming that use the harness for video.

 

Also did wiring checks just to double check everything for myself with a multimeter with pinouts etc and labeled a few cables for reference.

 

I'll be looking at Jamma multiboard adaptors later once I start hardware stage I have quite a few plans for use of space inside especially behind the coin mech and box which is one quarter or so of the usable space inside the cabinet and can be used for various things.

 

Haven't forgotten about Noodleshirt etc not up to that stage yet for the panel or printouts noticed he liked something in this thread and will need to check pricing with him and if he can make 2l16B panels as using consoles you need the 2 extra buttons over the 2l12b panels.

 

Anyone know anyone here in Perth who can respray the full cabinet outside and lock panels at a reasonable cost I like the white original color as some things are a bit yellow and a nice resprated or white cabinet looks nice (not my images)

 

Any comments suggestions or whatever welcome.

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I suggest not using white knights watered down "paint" again ...

 

Perth has one of the bigger importers of spray paint into australia so it shouldnt be hard to find . I recomend ANY colour from the Montana 94 range any Montana paint actually ... and ironlak is second best for pretty much anything ( the only faults with ironlak is that it fades in outdoor sun) . and both those brands (ironlak is aussie ) are cheaper than that pressurised white knights black water :) ...Better pigment ,thicker paint, easier to sand and buff etc ... Except for dymark and a few rustoleum colours the rest of the spray paint range at bunnings/hardware stores is crap.

 

I like everything how its meant to look from the factory, but I will give it to you ,it looks a little bit allright that fresh black inside !

 

 

And you wont find new/nos/old/good repros of astro city side art. Are you any good with illustrator ? Halftone dot patterns ?

 

I spent the last 5 minutes searching for this reply to me as I wanted to publicly acknowledge it.

 

I did some work well my dad did yesterday as I stayed over monday/tuesday.

 

As soon as got there Monday he comes up to me hugs me and says the paint work we did on the cab is a total disaster, it got soaked in and was patchy had water/dust bubbles on it, and some areas were hardly painted due to soaking in there were runs etc. while we saw the work straight after it was put in a corner got dusty etc then we had it had in the sun after my dad hosed it down and got a good look at it.

 

So yes this comment about watered down paint was absolutely right STAY AWAY cabinet owners, I may have some before photos the new paint work will have to check the photos next time at dads as I haven't grabbed the photos yet.

 

I know I didn't take the advice for replacement paint but at the store we chose Dulux gloss can this time my dad recommended White Knight can, I was like NO having both of us that just experienced their spraycan result on the cab, and got a couple brushes as well as masking tape and alternative / similar wheels we will mod into the old wheel frames, It was on my dad if painting failed this time.

 

Yesterday he did all the paint work and initial reaction afterwards was very impressed from both of us and we will make sure we evaluate the result, we will finish it later a second coat on the front top we never got around to painting originally and the other 2 pieces any leftover patches.

 

I'll update my worklog on the other site with images once that happens.

 

As for doing the outside my dad talked to someone who can do custom work like ours and says he can help bring the cab back to a similar of not factory paint condition for about $700 masking sanding etc and wants to see the potential job beforehand if we are interested, should we check this out and potentially take this offer up? My dad suggests on email we may be able to do it ourselves but would love opinions.

 

Also how would I strip all the original stickers etc off the cab and CP etc without damaging them?

 

If we do this, It'll be to Noodleshirt to get the sideart printed as suggested here also by orio1.

 

Even if it seems a bit weird all posters like orio and others are always helping me even indirectly.

 

I've learned quite a bit more since and still give back to the community with what I know.

 

Initially I learned the basic monitor stuff thanks to Jomac, googling gave me a lot of other info I compiled into a post about different things as Ive seen many like Sledge not know all the info and just go on what they know or is considered safe.

I learned about MGCD pinnouts and the non standard ground wiring and other Jamma things etc by getting a PS2 clone, Stereomod etc by FancoB who has been a big help on just a couple of stupid questions about plugs etc I forgot over the years,

I learned the Astros / Blasts etc were wired AMP direct to the monitor and the current prefered plug for most Jamma deluxe harnesses and Gonbes converters use JST-V and monitors use a Amp adaptor in which I had to update well in this case create a brand new page for JST-V on the AradeOtaku wiki and updated JST-NH with plugs and sockets info and purchase locations while I was at it, even on this forum I have seen people asking with comments not knowing what ther JST-V connector is or saying its a crap connector etc.

 

I'm still researching stuff from paradise etc and getting a hardware shopping list going for later.

 

I hope in a way I'm doing something and contributing back and actually having to work out things like interfacing Jamma to DB15 wanting to do a little more than just using a pc and have flexibility with things for more common home uses etc has been beneficial for everyone and future potential cab owners even homemade ones.

As I posted and some may have read on the other site I'm doing this despite having severe social anxiety and loads of social issues meeting and loosing people etc to the point Its impacted my expectations, confidence etc and can't exactly work or really leave home without feeling uncomfortable that I will be negatively focused on and that I seriously need a local social life which never happens that I'm always by myself despite trying somewhat.

Edited by drguild
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Instead of posting multiple questions / posts ill use this for my technical stuff.

First thing I noticed is the inside of the shell is very rough and that It needed a good turpentine clean with a cloth to get rid of dust attacked to the inside, but as it was rough it was hard to clean due to friction and scraping.So does anyone a product to spray over the inside so its a nice finish for future cleaning?

[ATTACH=CONFIG]79698[/ATTACH]

 

I recently had an Astro City Cab that I swear looked like it was used out on the street all it's life . Everything was Black soot inside, you couldn't even read the chassis component numbers it was that bad. I attacked it with spray in wipe spraying two bottle inside everywhere nothing was spared, then after ten minutes I used the hose and washed it all out mainly through the rear access panel. Then with a air gun I dried off all the boards, power supply and tube, and finishing it off with a small fan heater placed through the front bottom opening panel. When it was all dry I removed the boards, changed some sad looking capacitors and resoldered any doggy connections. The cab inside came up like new and I did change all the buttons with new ones as they were beyond repair. I've had it for 6 months now and no issues at all.

Insert Coin.jpg

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Here is a photo of where I am now, more are on the other forum.

 

I had a post typed but accidently lost it so redoing it a second time.

 

PingoPongo not sure what that $2 sticker was about, also never put water on electronics as you can cause short circuits and water can get tripped in places that may not dry out easily, always clean them separately and not with water if you absolutely have to clean something use contact cleaner and sparingly.

The last thing you want is to blow a rare $700+ game board or something.

Always dismantle things before you start cleaning.

 

I don't want to see anyone cleaning or doing stuff that can potentially damage or ruin their components.

 

I don't know about painting the outside that will be DIY if anything nowadays so tips appreciated.

 

Looking forward to getting the parts and eventually wiring this thing up sometime but when I don't know.

 

So here is the latest image of it.

 

IMG_6837.jpg

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Still working on it finished painting the inside we are skipping the outside for now and going to start the main build and stuff next.

 

I can always do the outside etc later.

 

Here is a image I took on friday of it.

 

My worklog on the other forum has how we managed to take off the 100 Yen sticker a in step by step breakdown for the Admin panel mod, I can repost it here as a guide if people want it for there candy cabs for cleaning them up etc.

Basically use Turps and be very gentle and work your way under and it lifts right off with hardly any effort once you get started.

 

http://i.imgur.com/XCxA9Q7.jpg

 

Advice comments etc always welcome.

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Things stalled a little over the last few months due to life, motivation etc but picking up again slowly.

 

We made a new back panel, and Ive started looking at making the control panel by printing the scans from arcade otaku / Sega made made decisions and the layout template with sizing from Slagcoin all match up perfect.

 

I'm also focusing on designing the admin panel button circuit under the 100 yen sticker at the moment.

 

Ive changed and fleshed out my plans from that basic photoshop I did.

 

My plans are now going to be 6 illuminated buttons under the 100 yen sticker with a 15 hard wired functions as each button with switched circuitry on 3 modes apart from the dedicated button to do that.

 

I worked out if all functions 3 physical modes per button were connected to a iPac with the CP buttons 18 active on shift I would get a maximum of 48 extra functions at my fingertips from the 2L16B player buttons mappable to the iPac, this is a total including all player buttons being 64 actions accessible right from the control panel.

 

The base circuit is worked out and the shift register circuit to switch the circuitry for the inputs to the buttons is being worked on.

 

My other thread on OCAU shows more information about this.

 

Also looking for ideas what to do next in rebuilding and the order to do things..

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Wanted to chime in for orio1 and others to say progress is going on, my life and emotions took a turn for the worst with ongoing depression and anxiety into that unspeakable territory with stuff that happened and I'll just say I might not have been here posting this update as a result of it, I'm not going to recover emotionally for a while but trying to focus on this Arcade system for something to look forward to and hoping my life gets better in areas I need socially etc.

 

The other forum has my full log on it but here is a update for this one about the admin panel and buttons a couple have been interested in.

 

Here are the components going to be used for my admin panel and circuitry + some other things, still more components coming for the circuitry for the switching circuit to allow the 15 different map'able functions to the LED buttons.

 

http://i.imgur.com/MGl9Hdm.jpg

 

Here is the 100 yen sticker cant see anything has been done right? and it still looks original.

 

http://i.imgur.com/i7qFU5S.jpg

 

Here is whats under that 100 yen sticker and is exactly what I was saying it was going to be like with the admin panel.

It's still far from complete as the cut is under half done currently and we are cutting the rest tomorrow, then we have all the new molding the circuit board to make and lid to make which will be hinged etc, but basically you can now get a actual idea and taste what I had been saying all along.

 

Don't worry I stressed to my dad helping and really made it really known that the underneath needs as much care and attention as the top in presentation and plan to ensure that happens also.

 

http://i.imgur.com/e0yguVK.jpg

 

There's also many other things were planning like making a new control panel harness bracket with more plugs etc on it and replicate it to the other side for this admin panel etc, were going to get a plastics place to make / bend us a new coin chute as the other broke in the storage box, it would have been nice to have a new white one anyway, and other things planned etc.

 

My dad is building a CNC machine I'll be making my panels on when done and FrancoB at Arcade Otaku will draw up the 2l16B panel in CAD to add to his collection of panel templates.

 

The other thread / forum has a full list of whats planned to do and progress of all of it as well as a link to my google spreadsheet with my purchase lists etc.

 

So yes the project is still going and probably the biggest refurb /retrofit / moden'ising of the Astro City I have seen people do (I tried to find other project with a scope as big or bigger than mine without luck most are basic restores) and the admin panel mod is now underway which is one of the main features.

Edited by drguild
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I haven't exactly turned a corner for the better with what's been going on is just the worst that happened was a couple weeks ago and I'm still here so to say and still feeling it pretty bad, but things have subsided a little naturally, though I'm desperate wanting things to change but doubt it. Edited by drguild
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Just a update got a pm asking me where I buy my stuff.

 

Here is my google spreadsheet with multiple tabs with parts, purchases and whats left, as well as all AMP plugs, costings of the project so far and stuff. The spreadsheet shows every place I have bought and intend to buy from, for my own referance when I go to buy products.

 

It's something I have done completely myself with no help over the last few months, it would be useful to you guys who own candy cabs to have a look through it if not for all the amp plug links etc.

 

Here is a couple images to show of cleaning up the cut today. It is not finished at all, its a initial cut pending proper sizing and stuff of the panel box with the components in it when we come to actually put that in.

 

Then after that re-sizing the cut and putting the box in comes all the other work molding the box on putting magnets in etc etc etc so still a big job.

 

http://i.imgur.com/jcxCl1v.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/Y24BniG.jpg

 

Currently looking at something else than this admin panel to do as we may put doing anymore on hold until me and my dad make a CNC machine we can use to cut the parts cover of the small panel out as one of the initial CNC projects.

 

So any suggestions what I can be working on?

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Its been a year and a half since the last post a lot of crap has gone on with me, medical issues with my dad and other things that has been on my mind and financially draining which some of the crap is from.

 

Also the project has slipped my mind a few times.

 

I am here just to update you that the project is continuing again now and to share progress of the admin box more info is on another site I use as the main site for the project but here is the progress over the last couple of days.

 

-----------------

 

I went to dads to help him clean and took a look at the box and had a quick think and worked out a easy way forward.

 

I'll be using a project box I bought and making it into the actual box.

As for the 3D printing idea that is still a idea if this fails but if not this will do what I want and be mounted into the admin panel etc.

 

We cut the bottom out of the box so its just a rectangle shell, My dad went all soldering iron powered knife blade on it but overdid it slightly so there's a few dings in it on the edges which can be fixed when mounting.

 

I measured the inner shelf what I require and it's 1.5mm, all the acrylic we got is either 1mm or 2mm so my dad will try to get a freebee cutoff from the acrylics place link at the top in helpful places and sponsors.

If he cant I found a 300mm square bit for $10 delivered, but I am sure he can.

 

Currently I am filing the edges while blasting Jpop and Vocaloid through my speakers like every night here. Listen to the autoplay next videos and that's basically my nights in general here.

 

 

Post is nothing without pics so op 'aka me' delivers.

 

Image is in progress.

So if your wondering the || bits will be left for the bottom under the shelf but removed above, same for the O screw mounts you can see, which I can easily cut to size out with my Ryobi rotary tool.

 

Everything will be painted in the end and smoothed down, the bottom has a screw on plate which will remain as is and be restrengthened as latch for key will be there.

 

1JVVL0j.jpg

 

The box is coming along nicely.

If you thought it looked like a mess and wondered how it would turn into the admin panel box well I am going to show you a good chunk of the way.

 

After yesterday I got a great hobby knife in the mail today I ordered last night and cleaned up the box (I'll add stuff to the purchase links etc above sometime soonish).

 

I also marked out the box for my rotary tool which I dremel'd out as much as I could using the orange roller sand / grind tool and then I cleaned up the bits with my knife.

 

GhDvWSX.jpg

 

This worked great and saved a load of time and made it soo much easier.

My new Knife in the pic also.

 

CSrfKVK.jpg

 

I cut thin some plastic card my dad gave me to test the shelf and here is the final result for now.

The shelf will probably be metal in the end with holes cut for components and painted like the back panel was.

 

NHbTJ1B.jpg

 

LCO8Hgb.jpg

 

I'll mark up the test plastic shelf for testing component spacing etc later today or tomorrow.

 

The screw holes I might be able to have screws go all through the proper shelf to hold everything together but we will see.

 

So far this is coming along great.

 

I will re-enforce the screw holes as mentioned on the side by filling in those curved gaps you can see between them and the box wall to give more strength to the box and mount points.

It will be painted white as mentioned.

At the bottom I will make cutouts for all the wires to go through.

 

I realised that once the box is completed I wouldn't be able to remove the electronic components from the cp housing as it will be bonded to the cp.

I don't think I can get around that at all so will have to be a sacrifice to the modularity I was after unless anyone knows a way?

One way may be to move the screw mounts to the inner shelf and then get rid of the remaining || bits underneath so the shelf comes out that way but that would mean the box isn't attached to the bottom plate anymore.

 

Overall #Feels Good

 

Admin panel layout fitting test

 

Little more work tonight I have made the box up as a test even though I knew everything was going to fit its nice to see it in person.

 

Height wise I need to cut more to lower the shelf slightly which is no issue and expected that.

 

I don't have the buttons fitted as they are delicate with the pins and cant sit without some sort of support as they are flush all round.

 

So here is top and underneath of a proper mockup.

Sorry for not having the volume knob I'm sure its at dads but wasn't in the RS component bag I grabbed.

 

I will need to do a proper layout to space sizing and relative box position as this box is slightly bigger than the space to use but I'l do that when we do the next proper work.

 

b7Ewqa5.jpg

 

9ZD6Y47.jpg

Edited by drguild
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More work on the box.

 

News update to my project.

 

I went to dads yesterday and I refactored the admin box design as I took measurements and had a very good look and think about design.

 

The components in the box will now be modular and be a module that plugs into the CP, this will make it better to work on and more inline with the design of the cabinet.

 

Designs for that are half done but we have a good idea how to do it this way.

 

First off I took many measurements on my 2 in 1 using the Microsoft garage sketchbook thingy in the store.

 

C8lvhsW.jpg

 

I marked the CP out for fine cutting and cut it.

I overdid the cutting and its a little off as I'm not too good detailing so we will need to fix it up.

 

nHiErdd.jpg

 

As for the module design it required more box modification to get rid of all inside lips etc.

 

fr6pb5B.jpg

 

BxK5kF6.jpg

 

But in the end this becomes a plug in module of electronic stuff into the box that can be unplugged if needed.

 

ptan9qx.jpg

 

9T7TO2D.jpg

 

SRwyaL0.jpg

 

I now have to do the proper mark up of the inside shelf for the components now I have all the measurements of everything, which I will do later today/tonight on some aluminium my dad gave me.

 

He will look for material for the lid to go on the 100 yen sticker.

 

So whats needed now?

 

  • Design the wiring hole cutouts in the bottom of the CP box
  • Design Key Latch on bottom of plug-in module
  • Design mounting the module to the admin box
  • Mounting all the components on the module
  • Fixing up mistakes like over cutting the inside ledge
  • Cleaning everything up and painting everything nicely

Overall its getting there and at a stage where work is picking up a little.

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Progress has been slow as I've been suffering moderate depression and anxiety again, it's very lonely here for me at the moment.

 

Though I have looked at the admin panel some more and decided on a smd lighting system for it.

 

This is just a placed test of parts before I fully build the admin box components, clean them up and attach them to the actual control panel via fibreglass etc.

For those concerned about me ruining the astro look with this panel or butchering the CP hopefully this will ease some of that.

 

As mentioned all the components will come out as a module.

 

I went to my dads for my 35'th birthday Saturday, was just me and him, he bought me a cake they made on his order for me and he made other things for eats, no presents or anything else really, a couple messages email etc but that was it, my isolation even extends to days of joy and happiness times.

 

I took a look at the admin box and what I looked at over the last few weeks.

All I can say is 'Let there be light'

 

To start I'll just throw the end result up now then explain it.

 

Note: I am very happy with this turned out, everything with the lighting looks soo much better in person compared to these photos even my dad commented it looked very cool I was like it looks warm hehe a pun on the warm white I chose instead of cool white.

 

ers60gP.jpg

 

I looked at different lighting ideas to start, from ELWire, single LED's, other things and had a good ponder on colour choices and also tested a few products, this is why I didn't want to say anything at the time as it was all a learning process with a bit of cost involved with trial and error and still will be for a little bit.

 

Eventually I settled on using SMD light strips and tested some local warehouse cheap Chinese eBay stuff as well as Red ELWire.

(I'll offer any advice or assistance to others hoping to do lighting projects as I know a crap load about strip lights now types of SMD chips, kelvin colour temps, HD or SD strips, all the controllers IR / WiFi, dimmers, etc etc etc)

 

DLaVvYI.jpg

 

Testing a few products I went to my dads and tested both cool and warm light on the admin panel, my dad mentioned cool white was a bit much on the eyes and I liked the warm light feel but was a tough choice, though I had both to play with.

 

I decided to properly test the warm light so I dodgilly melted the plastic coating at the ends (Strip light smoke don't breath this) and soldered some stripped transformer wire my dad gave me.

Was a bit hot thats why the ends burned.

 

A2ndT1b.jpg

 

In the end there was light after resoldering and testing everything twice.

 

jh5Cr9R.jpg

 

Mounting it on the box was just some crappy double sided tape hence why it came loose but it was a prototype test and with the box in position ontop of a cloth to fit right under, you can now see exactly what I am working towards with the admin panel and how its actually going to look but will be much cleaner when finished.

 

The box design has also changed slightly as the inner shelf will have a raised lip on the sides where the light strip will mount inside the box, my dad suggests folding aluminium on the 3 sides to create the sides for the lights to mount on, this will mean the strip will be part of the inner module and will come out with all the other components that are mounted on and in the shelf.

Also there will be a reed or other type of small micro switch that will turn the light on automatically when the lid is raised and turn it off again when closed.

 

Inside the cabinet all doors etc will receive the same treatments with auto switches on each door and I have even cooler ideas for inside the main doors etc, lets just say this cabinet will light up like a fully programmable WiFi enabled Christmas tree or a rave party by the time I am finished with it.

 

Also everything will go to my Master Panel next to the coin slot box or where the coin mech is mounted as thats a full panel of spare space behind that not used as all that is accessed there is the coin mech attached to the door so might as well use that inner space also for a extra panel.

 

I made and gave my dad a list of stuff on his end to get done for me like looking for plastic glues and the hex nut for the inner mounting struts around the box.

 

So its very slow and kinda a good thing I held off doing shelf design as that changes slightly now to accommodate the lip and some more wiring.

 

Overall even bigger and cooler plans but all exactly as my scope with my ideas and thoughts I was going to work through I went about building this cabinet up.

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Not much work has been done over the last year I was starting to properly look at mounting the box but part of that box broke.

Since however I did get a nicer (better quality brand) led strip for the box.

I have thought about internal lighting and will have something to share later once I am up to that stuff.

 

Though with my own stuff depression etc I haven't done much or gone to dad's much this year as he has been having his own issues and wasn't motivated to do anything or clean up his place so I could do more work, every time I have gone he has told me to wait till he cleans up he never does etc.

 

I do have some ideas on how to move forward and am thinking about those and ways I can get the build sped up a little.

If anyone has ideas about mounting the box or other things etc let me know.

If anyone is in Perth and wants to see the cabinet at its current state or are interested in having a chat in person about my plans, goals, what I know and have learned and I can show some stuff let me know.

Also if any of you have a cab I can see to get a in person feel for as I need a bit of social considering I haven't had any for months.

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Work is picking up again finally.

Last few years has been a mix of my own depression & motivation my dads issues etc etc and just not feeling it with working etc.

 

The old admin box we were making ended up being turned into a test piece and we started building a better box which is going well.

 

Here is the new box just before I glued the back 'buffer' piece on as a test fitting.

Its oversize as I'll have a led strip on the edge with a diffuser round the edge to make it really pretty.

 

vVK0GWK.jpg

 

The old box became a test piece as mentioned.

 

naGZOeD.jpg

 

And test fitting that into the box.

 

AJcOpFd.jpg

 

Here I have a prototype test aluminium insert I am using and will be marking up and cutting before doing a final piece on a thicker better piece.

 

ZjQW31W.jpg

 

And a test placement of the 100 yen sticker to show how the box will work.

 

DSz4Ks1.jpg

 

There's still stuff to do hinges the led auto light reed switch to work out with wiring, how the key latch will mount and where all the wires will go into the box etc etc but overall getting there on the box.

 

The box will be fiberglassed onto the cp to make it all molded if you know about doing this or have suggestions on what is good for bonding stuff together like this feel free to contact me.

 

For those that wondered if I was butchering the panel doing this as I mentioned I am taking design and aesthetics into account as I hope you can see from these images.

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I mocked up the final admin box with the test metal and used paper to mask as the cutting was very rough and oversize and this is everything as will be once I do it for real on the real insert piece but with better alignment as everything is in place but not perfectly aligned.

The leds on the sides will be diffused to make it nicer and wires will go down the top left side at the back.

This should give everyone a very clear picture of what I am doing.

 

UZQtS5s.jpg

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I should update you all on whats been going on with this project.

 

I have been progressing with the box and it was eventually glued on but I hit a bit of a issue.

The glue I was using SCI-GRIP 16 just eventually wear off on the box and eveyrthing is now in parts.

So a call to anyone out there that knows anyone that can help with acrylic bonding and plastics please contact me as I am unsure what to do about this.

 

These are some updated screens since last post.

The hex threads will be soldered onto a brass strip around the box and more brass strips will be used for stability etc and hopfully everything will be fiberglassed together.

But first as mentioned I need anyone that can help with acrlic and plastic etc bonding.

 

img_20191020_122540-01-jpeg.12364.thumb.jpg.04a038b2c0d933d99b148ab2b3beb820.jpg

img_20200402_023535-jpg.17192.thumb.jpg.6e2ae411fafb992d56997be79071d226.jpg

dVMZGMn.thumb.jpg.b0cd49b6199c79b1a8b92921372222b9.jpg

 

I also got a stool for the arcade from Kmart.

 

ZGhgK49.thumb.jpg.9687a5e476d1daf0f9d2bcf60ab63279.jpg

 

And this is what happened to the box and why I want anyone that can to advise.

Glue I used and what happened after a few months.

 

LkScWHk.thumb.jpg.9396cd5e3e30379d86ad4a8528f29998.jpg

 

BMng2vy.thumb.jpg.ec2d9637e59cc15b0d90b18401d0c747.jpg

 

So if anyone can help or advise me anyone in Perth that can help with doing the bonding of the box properly please let me know.

I want this done properly and so it won't ever come apart or whatever.

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Plans changed quite a bit for the better.

Found a place to make it but was going to be expensive.

I got myself a 3D printer which opens up new possibilities so I am making the admin box in that.

 

​​​​​This is so far which is currently in PLA but will reprint in ABS with a template for the next part to work on next in the next few days.

 

IMG_20200904_103310-01.jpeg.23115a6344001119e75532a6505553d9.jpeg

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Been building the admin box and have it mostly ready.

just need to clean up the lip edges with a file and repaint it.

 

I also need to work out how to mount and wire up the led buttons.

If anyone knows electronics and can help let me know.

I need that before I start wiring or purchasing a small circuit board for mounting.

 

But coming along.

 

MVIMG_20210613_161023-01.jpeg.f8c6b2ae5ad52640bdc4553a3171ca28.jpeg

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Been making progress on the admin box and most of the main constructions are finished.

 

I bonded trhe 3D printed box on with JB Weld I thought I rould need to reinforce the sides with JBWeld Steelstick but won't have to as its bonded on excelently.

The box is PLA but will anneal if it gets warm so not a issue and if it breaks I'll just print a new box.

 

MVIMG_20210709_201031-01.jpg.27bd458a5f273afafa9c5fa836f4f2af.jpg

 

I cleaned up the splatter of JBWeld yesturday and today with a knife 'np pics though' and will paint over any grey areas on corners with Delux MetalShield Epoxy Enamel White I bought for painting the panels and corners of the box,

 

Here is the bottom how it will sit with a custom keylatch on this plate.

The plastic is still on the metal for now for this piece hence the stains.

 

MVIMG_20210711_000914-01.jpg.ecbdb0ce93f72f7719ef7d38ea3a33ea.jpg

 

Here is how it looks from the top with the insert in.

I will repaint this as its scatched from working on it.

 

MVIMG_20210711_000752.jpg.a89037e08b7a467978e038760e4b82c0.jpg

 

Here is the lid fitted 2 shots second is the 100 yen sticker placed on it to see the final result.

I need to wash the dirt around the box from working today,

You can see I kept my promise of making it discrete, as it is I don't need to do any more work with cutting up the CP tharts done and the box is bonded now.

 

MVIMG_20210711_160952-01.jpg.6130bbbe1d6b636945efadc3df4dd26c.jpg

 

MVIMG_20210711_162900-01.jpg.4f8d6d53e7f4c879784dbfd51eb79cbd.jpg

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