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Thread: Generic Aussie Cab Restore

  1. #1
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    Generic Aussie Cab Restore

    I picked this cab up from a Tip Shop a few weeks ago now. I was hoping it was working but they would not let me test it. I took it home anyway to rescue it.









    The locks had no keys so I had to drill them out.





    Once I got it open I sadly discovered that the 19" tube had been broken at the back and was not salvageable.



    The upside was the discovery of a 1942 PCB. I have no way to test it but still a nice find.



    I'm not sure I'm keeping this cab as I simply do not have the room so I might re-sell it after I've reconditioned it as much as I can with spare parts.

    First was stripping it down. I took all the metal parts out such as the hinged monitor door, control panel, bolts, rear handles, hinge and any outward facing bolts.





    A quick wipe down and vacuum got rid of all the old dust, debris and cobwebs from a long storaged machine.
    I threw the old monitor, yoke and chassis away as effectively useless for me.





    Stripped monitor door and control panel.



    A light sand of all steel components with fine grit sandpaper and then 3 coats of satin black spraypaint to bring the components back to new. I also sprayed all of the bolts so that they blend into the black timber panelling.







    The monitor plexi was held onto the door with double-sided tape which I had to carefully separate so that I did no damage or scratches.



    Once separated I then had to remove the tape from both parts. The rainbow colour on the plexi has been sprayed on from the back so I had to ensure that I removed the residue without lifting the paint which was successful. I'll put it back together using new double-sided tape once it's all done.

    The control panel was fitted with a single player setup. A black MCA joystick, 2 player buttons, Player 1 Start, Player 2 Start buttons and a small single button to the right. I suspect that this had been rigged as a credit insert button as it looks to me it had been sitting in someones home for years and there was no coin mech installed anywhere.

    The MCA was rat shit, so I've replaced it with a spare (I have about 14 of them). Unfortunately I don't have any black ones so I'm using a single yellow I had that matches the yellow in the panel.

    All of the buttons I'll reuse as they are all fine including the micro-switches. The credit button however will need to be replaced as the top has snapped off. I'll need to try and source one as I've never seen one of these before and I don't want to drill a bigger hole.



    You can see the restored top unit below.



    I spent some time wiring up a new power supply, jamma harness and 60-1 board. I decided to use the 60-1 as this cab was a vertical cab and the bezel and monitor shroud were being re-used.

    I'm a real weenie when it comes to electricity so was concerned about wiring mains 240 power to the arcade power supply but 2 youtube video instructions later and I re-wired a std power plug into the arcade power supply within 5 mins. Hooked up the jamma harness to 5volt, 12volt and ground points on it and test-fired the arrangement. The power supply, board and monitor all turned on, the board initialised and after the 60 second startup (why so damn long?) I had the iCade menu displaying and running.







    I tidied up all the wiring and used cable ties to neaten it all up. It always surprised me how much room there is in an arcade cab. Really the monitor takes up most of the room.



    I've gone with an LCD as it's the easiest for me to mount although I do have several spare 19" crt PC monitors hanging around if I feel the need to change it to a CRT look.

    I ended up modifying the monitor frame to accommodate the LCD. I also created a new internal bezel to suit using 3 ply and sprayed it black to blend it.

    Once bolted together the monitor sits nice and flush to the front door.



    I'm creating an instruction card to suit the unpainted space left in the exterior bezel that will fit flush. Unfortunately my colour printer is almost dead so I need to wait till after eater to print it at work before I can remount the exterior bezel. I'll upate this thread once done.

    Thanks to @Homepin and @DavidAVD knowledge and part I've also mounted a volume control onto the rear of the cab. This is wired in between the jamma harness speaker output and the speaker inside the cab. I've re-used the single speaker that was already in the cab and mounted the control knob into a std button hole that a previous owner had drilled into the back. It's come up pretty nice and fits really well.



    The back of the cab also had a large square cut-out that gave access to the old monitor yoke but there was no cover. I bought a grill piece, sprayed it black and mounted it. It looks pretty good.



    Front View minus exterior Bezel



    Now with bezel minus instruction card until I can get it printed.



    Apart from that all I really need to do is do something about the damaged sides. Not sure if its worth it or there is a cheats way but the laminate has a chunk out on the right and some deep scratches on the left. It does give it character. I also replaced the barrel locks.





    Cheers,
    Brad
    Last edited by Brad; 19th April 2014 at 04:23 PM.

  2. #2
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    if you want a black mca with matching mca buttons i have some spare brad

    just pay post
    you can always expect change in life..except from vending machines

  3. #3
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    Suggestion of fixing the side of the cabinet is this product.
    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1510mm-x1...item1c2eaf4b2d

  4. #4
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    Nice score and a good read. Look forward to the end result.

  5. #5
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    Looks good so far.
    I am surprised how well the screen looks. Does it look that good in person?
    If it does I would leave the LCD in.
    What model Dell monitor is it? Ive just been reading the debate about people using flat screens and the issues with the viewing angle.

  6. #6
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    if you want a black mca with matching mca buttons i have some spare brad
    just pay post
    Hey Narf, mate of your willing to move them on I'm more than willing to take them off your hands =)

    Suggestion of fixing the side of the cabinet is this product.
    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1510mm-x1...item1c2eaf4b2d
    That looks alright but I'm not sure it would look any good with this cab.

    Quote Originally Posted by gottaconnect View Post
    Looks good so far.
    I am surprised how well the screen looks. Does it look that good in person?
    If it does I would leave the LCD in.
    What model Dell monitor is it? Ive just been reading the debate about people using flat screens and the issues with the viewing angle.
    Yes the screen does look that good. It's still your typical blocky LCD and I'd rather a CRT look but I've seen a LOT of cabs with LCD's particularly when using a multi-board and I can put up with it. The viewing angle is fantastic. I did a burn in on it yesterday running it for hours and I could clearly see the screen at almost 90 degrees from a distance of5 metres no dramas.

    the model is an old Dell 4:3 1908 FP

    Cheers,
    Brad

  7. #7
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    np brad ill dig them out tommorow when im back from the mrs place

    buttons are short mcas that use the lever switches

    was saving for the taito but no go with out using a grinder on the CPs for me which i cant bear to do lol
    you can always expect change in life..except from vending machines

  8. #8
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    I've seen laminate removed on American Restorations using an iron and a bath towel.
    Lay the towel over the laminate and then iron it. Apparently this heats up the glue making it easier to scrape the laminate off.

  9. #9
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    Cool restore great that you saved the cab

  10. #10
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    Drouin VIC on the move ;)
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    Good writeup Brad always like seeing a quick restore on a cab to get it back into circulation
    The best action is wrist action!!!!!!

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