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Sega outrunners has died


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Not sure where to post this?...

Any guidance or help appreciated

I have a Sega outrunners that has been slowly getting cosmetically restored - but was 100% working

(Made an opto board to run 24V LEDs instead of E17 110V lamps, fixed speaker plugs, fixed LCD lamp)

Now it is now 100% not working

Is there a modern option to get this beast running again???

It has 6 x analog IP (steer, accel, brake x 2)

10 x digital IP (gear up, gear down, start key, radio select up, radio select down x 2)

Plus 4 x DI (test & credits x 2)

Is there some sort of multi driving game unit?

Thanks in advance..............

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Sorry..........

Monitors are (were) both OK

Machine does not "Boot up" - seems to hang

All power seems OK, have 12V & 5V dc

I think it is the control box (processors card/s)

Found some info on the "special processors with batteries" they use

Not sure if I have these, will have to pull the boards out again

Thought that if there is a modern replacement that suits the I/O listed, that would be better than trying to fix an old board with no schematics

regards Jim

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

What I mean...

Is there a MAME (or something) that has the same or similar IO count as I listed?

I can then keep the huge machine and just change the guts of it

It is a two player humongous thing

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there's plenty of options if you have the time and money . mame emulator or m2 emulator or m3 emulator or ps2's and more . running multi emulators is also possible . none are a easy plug and go deal thow .

 

http://www.aussiearcade.com/showthread.php/54594-mame-twin-driver-requirements-and-games-list-blah-blah. this will get your started

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Did you measure voltage on the board (not psu) ?

 

Should have close to; 5v , 5v, 0, 12v.

on both jamma headers.

 

Maybe your fixes now drawing more load hence volt drop and no boot?

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Only checked it at the PSU

The jamma connector goes into a multi connector board on a steel box that houses 3 boards

It is a bit awkward to get to the pins, but I might be able to open the back and measure inside - will check

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Mines different its a single big board with two jamma headers all fully exposed when the back door of the cab is removed , anyway I checked both and it was low 4.67v and the game started to freeze. The switch mode psu is awkward unsafe to reach from the back I pulled the left steering chassis out to easily adjust psu. Raised to 4.95v and good now.
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Interesting - will definitely check that out

I will post a picture of the box, but may not get back to it until the weekend

Thanks for the info!

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Thanks Boots

It mostly gets used on weekends

My son told me it would not start, and then it did

The next day it was over

The CMOS battery is new

I think all the chips looked normal, but will pull it out again and see if there is the special battery one

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Thanks Mikie

Boards look much the same, just a different housing and connectors

Will get a few pics when I open it up again

regards Jim

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Almost there - problem now looks like the +5V power supply

I had quite a few capacitors that had some corrosion around the leads - see pictures

Not sure what type they are (circled in the picture - they look like resistors) but they are the filter caps for the ICs

Have replaced them with 22nF monolithics (blue ones circled in the picture) I have had problems with ceramics in the past, where they have absorbed moisture and caused high current draw

Also replaced a few electrolytics while I was going

This caused the supply to rise up to about 5.3V (from the lower current consumption)

Adjusted the supply back down to 5.1V and it booted up and ran, but not always

Put the meter on it on min/max and caught the power supply dip at times

Have ordered a new power supply and will fit a large electrolytic on the 5V rails

Am guessing that the power supply has been struggling with the load and is on its way out

Thinking back - the problem started when we had a heap of rain and it was very humid

I will check the current it draws when I replace it (wish I checked that at the start, would have been a good reference)

Outrunners3.thumb.jpg.8c9284e851381c251c72fd042eb54fd5.jpgOutrunners1.thumb.jpg.e127b4474846deabae70b517f60442a9.jpgOutrunners2.thumb.jpg.dac69fa7c27246f78a880ef45c9701ac.jpg

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

Just need to check for the "special" self destructing IC and replace the battery

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  • 2 months later...

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