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melted monitor Anode cap


knight76

Question

On the cocktail I just bought, I had been hearing a sort of staticy zapping sound when I had it on for testing. I found the issue to be a monitor cap with an indentation in it that turned out to be a hole.

 

Right when I discovered this I had the cab running as I just finished wiring up P1 controls. I noticed through the monitor cap you could see blue electricity zapping around the hole.

 

Immediately turned the cab off and went to discharge the monitor but sliding the screwdriver under the monitor cap just pulled strips of the cap off. Basically the monitor anode cap is melted.

 

Is this a case of just replacing the anode cap with another and on my way, or a deeper issue?

 

Pic:

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/knight76/Misc%20Stuff/cocktail3_zps52abbf90.jpg

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It has just perished with age (a bit like me really :lol)

 

Technically it isn't replaceable 'cause it's part of the FBT and lead BUT I reckon you could shoehorn a new one (or one salvaged from a dead FBT or TV) over the cable after you remove all the old crappy bits and clean it all up with metho/thinners.

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Re: melted monitor Anode cap

 

Homepin - I was thinking the cable entirely could be replaced, un soldered from the fbt and new one added. Not possible?

 

If the anode cap lead can be un soldered from the fbt then I could slide a new rubber cup over the cable without having to stretch it over the contacts.

 

Maybe a new flyback is required?

@Jomac

 

I sure am glad I sorted all the grounds before switching this on.

 

Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk 2

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From my knowledge with monitors, You would have to replace the chassis as its near impossible to match up just a flyback? And if you replaced the cap or lead they would still leak voltage. you would get a dull image and still have the hissing sound. you can also smell it sort of ionizing the air. I had a something similar in an OK Baby cab i had awhile back. I May be wrong though.
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As Homepin suggested you can just replace the cup and clip from another old flyback , this is what I normally do. , it's not the easiest thing to do sometimes because you have to slide the suction cup a few inches onto the cable so you can solder on the clip and then you pull the cable while holding the cup until the clip is sitting back inside the cup. , the easiest way to do this is with a bit of wet soap , it will allow the rubber to slide and then dry off quickly.

You can't replace the lead itself because it's molded into the flyback so there is no access to solder it.

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Re: melted monitor Anode cap

 

I guess i will be on the lookout for a dumped tv to get the cup from.

 

So the method here is to remove the existing cup from the clip. Note how it is soldered on. Then cut the cable from the donor tv and slide the cup off. Put that on the cocktail cable. Solder the new clip on, pull the cup over the new clip and were done?

 

Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk 2

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No luck on the anode cap change.

 

I cut an anode cup off an old TV I had that no longer worked. The cup was a bit bigger than the other one. No soldering required on the anode tip as it had a clasp system. The wire folded back on the insulation and the spring pushes over the insulation holding the wire down. This then had a clasp pushed over the back edge of the spring to hold it closed.

 

Took it off, pushed the new cup over the insulation, put the spring and clasp back on and pulled it through the cup so the exposed wiring was deep within the cup mold. Cleaned the outside of the tube with alcohol and let it dry. Then hooked up the anode cap and tried it with no board attached. Seemed fine, no zapping etc.

 

Plugged a board in and straight away had rappid zapping. Nothing coming from the anode cap, but the neck board had a bright light coming from a part labled SG6 which is a U shaped piece with two small metal rods pointed at eachother.

 

I took this as a bad sign, together with the shit picture and constant resetting I switched it off.

 

Looks like I will be replacing it with a new monitor and jomac chassis.

 

Anything else I can do for this one before I chuck the tube/chassis?

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The tube itself should be fine, but does have some screen burn, not noticeable when playing but it is there. Could easily grab a small TV, pull the tube and then get the chassis for it to make sure it is fresh.

 

That is probably the direction I will head with it.

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