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Street Fighter 2 Arcade Machine Scramble Warp Sprites Characters


giganticsloth

Question

I have a Street Fighter 2 arcade machine and the sprites/characters get a weird warping/scrambling around them whenever they are interacted with (ie: they kick, punch or get hit)... or even sometimes when they're just standing there.

 

Check out the attached screenshots for a "picture is worth a thousand words" description.

 

What can I tweak to stop the scrambling?

 

scrambled1.JPGscrambled2.JPG

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I don't really know how to do what you're suggesting.

 

In creating this problem, I just fiddled with and adjusted the H and V hold knobs and the brightness/contrast to improve the picture and now its scrambled. Did I do something wrong when adjusting?

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It's unlikely to be related, the monitor doesn't interact with the board at all, rather the other way around.

http://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/Basic_Diagnostics

Some basic explanations of what I'm talking about here. Throw up a photo and I can help point out the EPROMs to you. They can be lifted from the PCB by using a small flat head screw driver and slowly lifting each side, making sure not to damage the board. Reseating them can often clean up issues like this.

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Ok, cheers for trying to help me out.

 

I've just gone and taken photos of all the chip/board areas I could see around inside the cabinet.

 

If you can spot the part I need to work on or want to see any part in more detail I can retake some better photos of it - just specify the letter label so I know which part you mean.

 

Aboard2.JPGboard1.JPG

Bboard5.JPG

Cboard4.JPG

Dboard3.JPG

 

Some of these photos were turned upside down while uploading here.

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Photo C is the game board. It's a CPS1 system game, which is made up of 3 boards, the C-Board (the little one on top), the B-Board (the middle board, this is where the game data is stored), and the A-Board (the bottom board, this is equivalent to a motherboard - it has all the hardware that actually makes the game run and appear on the screen).

 

For reference, image A is the monitor chassis, B is the credit board and D is the power supply.

 

Do you have a multimeter so we can check voltages?

On the game board's B-Board, the big black chips are mask ROMs. They contain game data (usually graphics), and are soldered directly onto the game PCB itself. It is possible to read the data on these with an EPROM Programmer, but not write. The black chips with the white labels are EPROMs. They're socketed, meaning they can be removed from the PCB. They can be read and erased and written to using an EPROM programmer. In this case, they probably contain the game code/engine. They're unlikely to be at fault, but still worth re-seating as it's pretty painless to do.

I would suggest separating and reattaching all 3 board layers incase of oxidisation. Again, it's not likely to fix it, but you never know.

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Photo C is the game board. It's a CPS1 system game, which is made up of 3 boards, the C-Board (the little one on top), the B-Board (the middle board, this is where the game data is stored), and the A-Board (the bottom board, this is equivalent to a motherboard - it has all the hardware that actually makes the game run and appear on the screen).

 

For reference, image A is the monitor chassis, B is the credit board and D is the power supply.

 

Do you have a multimeter so we can check voltages?

On the game board's B-Board, the big black chips are mask ROMs. They contain game data (usually graphics), and are soldered directly onto the game PCB itself. It is possible to read the data on these with an EPROM Programmer, but not write. The black chips with the white labels are EPROMs. They're socketed, meaning they can be removed from the PCB. They can be read and erased and written to using an EPROM programmer. In this case, they probably contain the game code/engine. They're unlikely to be at fault, but still worth re-seating as it's pretty painless to do.

I would suggest separating and reattaching all 3 board layers incase of oxidisation. Again, it's not likely to fix it, but you never know.

 

Well done Stoog,

Just a question to Dave, I have a similar problem on a taito board, if the mask roms show as faulty/corrupt how do you go about repairing them?

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Well done Stoog,

Just a question to Dave, I have a similar problem on a taito board, if the mask roms show as faulty/corrupt how do you go about repairing them?

 

You have to find an eprom equivalent to the faulty maskrom, and burn it with the content of the corresponding file in the mame set for this game.

However, some mask roms don't have an eprom equivalent, so you have the find the closest pin matching eprom, and adapt its behaviour so it

matches the original mask rom.

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You have to find an eprom equivalent to the faulty maskrom, and burn it with the content of the corresponding file in the mame set for this game.

However, some mask roms don't have an eprom equivalent, so you have the find the closest pin matching eprom, and adapt its behaviour so it

matches the original mask rom.

 

OK thanks, when I get my eprom reader/burner I will follow this further.

Nice little village you live in (Googled it), 2-3 hours from Paris? nice relaxed culture :)

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OK thanks, when I get my eprom reader/burner I will follow this further.

Nice little village you live in (Googled it), 2-3 hours from Paris? nice relaxed culture :)

 

Thank you ;) My village is about 2 hours from Paris, and I live in a old restored farm from 1890.

I am working in making a gameroom instead of the garage which we have no use since there is

the place to park the car in front of it. When finished there will be two new rooms for a little

more 30m?. A lot of work to do yet however

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