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Next PCB: Vector Deflection Board Interest thread - Amplifone Colour - Star wars etc


dezbaz

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I intend to make Bare PCBs, as a few of mine are burnt around the main transistors (Normal with these)

A Green Amplifone Deflection Board arrived on my doorstep today. (phone call out of the blue)

 

Within 3 hours it was stripped to a bare PCB

 

Before

http://www.dsbelec.iinet.net.au/DeflectionGreen-sm.jpg

 

After

 

http://www.dsbelec.iinet.net.au/Amp_Defl_Stripped-01-sm.jpg http://www.dsbelec.iinet.net.au/Amp_Defl_Stripped-02-sm.jpg

 

This will be a small run, so the costs may be reflective of that, not sure

 

If you need one (A BARE PCB) please let me know. The more we get the lower the cost etc :)

 

Modifications will be done to prevent usual problems.

 

I might add a plug or 2 because the 14 x wires break of easily

http://www.dsbelec.iinet.net.au/DeflectionPlugs-sm.jpg

 

Please add your 20c if you have ideas

 

List so far

Me 2

Gibo 2

wonder1 2

daveb 1

 

Total 7

Edited by dezbaz
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Updated guys!

 

 

Just so you know, I have looked into the heatsink, and it seems to be not available in it's state.

Each person will probably need 1 x old original board for this project unless you know an aluminium extruder.

 

I read it is not a good idea to reduce the surface area of a heatsink, in fact to increase the heat dissipation of a heatsink by 50%, you need to increase the surface area by 400%.

 

I read this yesterday on the net here (Look under the pic that looks like a black comb)

 

---------- Post added at 05:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:44 PM ----------

 

Some are for sale here

http://www.quarterarcade.com/Browse.aspx?c=All.Parts.Mon

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  • 2 months later...
  • 2 months later...

Whoa, a bit has happened and so thread is due for an update

 

I have fully converted the board to a Gerber file ready to be made, but it needs checking first

 

Improvements to the board have been made, readily available parts / alternatives have been sourced and tabled ready to make these from scratch. Or you may wish to use the PCB to simply rebuild yours.

 

Improvements

Board is now double sided, so all links will be removed

Two molex plugs have been added, so the wiring harness dis-connectable or soldered as before. This will do away with the problem of breaking wires

The option to get rid of the 2 x HUGE resistors (R7 and R29, 10W) in favour of TO-220 type (20W), to be added onto the heatsink

The piggy-backed height and width pots, now have spot on the board

The suggested diode modes (8 diodes) are incorporated onto the new board

Higher rated Deflection Transistors found and tested

 

Many other changes

Here's a sample

http://www.dsbelec.iinet.net.au/SampleAA-sm.jpg

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  • 2 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

The newest Amp deflection on the Planet (proto assembled)

http://www.dsbelec.iinet.net.au/AmpDefAssy-01-sm.jpg

 

http://www.dsbelec.iinet.net.au/AmpDefAssy-02-sm.jpg

 

Testing next . . .

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Dez - you must be well chuffed as you deserve to be - full marks to you!!!

 

I can have those heatsinks made by the way - but I'm unsure of the MOQ?

 

Really, cool, maybe only need 50 H/Sinks

 

I have found a similar H/sink at Jaycar, but needs to be modified to include the flat area.

 

Would your people do it extruded as per original?

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The people I use have a book with standard extrusions in it. There are a few that look pretty good BUT they have the vanes up AND down?? I am sure they would do 50pcs for me and anodise them in any colour (refer my thread about the Bally Rectifier board showing the gold anodised one).

 

How about I copy this book and post it to you and you can have a look - this crowd is lightning fast - I ordered 200pcs of the Bally H/S and they were made with my specified holes and anodised gold in 3 days! (cheap as well - although the post cost me more than the heatsinks....:()

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The people I use have a book with standard extrusions in it. There are a few that look pretty good BUT they have the vanes up AND down?? I am sure they would do 50pcs for me and anodise them in any colour (refer my thread about the Bally Rectifier board showing the gold anodised one).

 

How about I copy this book and post it to you and you can have a look - this crowd is lightning fast - I ordered 200pcs of the Bally H/S and they were made with my specified holes and anodised gold in 3 days! (cheap as well - although the post cost me more than the heatsinks....:()

 

Absolutely

 

derricksb at iinet dot net dot au

 

Thanks Mike

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  • 5 months later...

Well, after a big winter and a few problems with this PCB, I am back on track!

 

I took today off as I am working Saturday.

 

1. Fixed my star wars board - sort of (Juggled parts till I had a fully working board)

2. Fitted my best old deflection board to test my test monitor

3. Got the oscilloscope out and measured my RGB Signals and AC and DC Voltages

4. I hooked up the prototype deflection board and compared. Something wasn't right. My voltages were all over the place when compared to the Orig board

5. I got the DMM out and started buzzing point to point. After 30 mins I found it - A missing track - A rather important track:o It's the GND connection on the 9 pin plug

 

ORIGINAL BOARD

http://www.dsbelec.iinet.net.au/Amp_Proto_Error-02-sm.jpg

 

PROTOTYPE

http://www.dsbelec.iinet.net.au/Amp_Proto_Error-01-sm.jpg

 

So after adjusting the drive & colour pots & size pots etc, I got a picture

 

May have to increase the physical size of the 2 main filter caps, my vectors are VERY wavy

 

So it's a big day! Been a while

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  • 1 month later...

Repro Deflection Prototype up and running at last

 

I started proto#2 from scratch to find this error

All parts were carefully checked to find the problem

 

Found 2 x errors today. Board now working perfectly!

 

R14 is supposed to be 1.2K (I used incorrect 12K) - Schematic error

R72 is supposed to be 1.6K (I used incorrect 16K) - Supplier sent me 16K instead of 1.6K

 

This schematic is now correct

http://www.dsbelec.iinet.net.au/Amp_Defl&HV_Schematic_Dez_FINAL-sm.jpg

 

NOTE: Wire links are hardwired into the PCB, so no need to fit links

 

Pics

http://www.amazingarcading.com.au/2013_Proto-03-sm.jpg

 

http://www.amazingarcading.com.au/2013_Proto-05-sm.jpg

 

Improvements for actual PCB will include:

 

  • Moving J105 (Yoke) downward by 5mm, away from 2 x new Large (Alt R6 & R29) resistors
  • Move Orig R6 & R29 down, too close to Fuse 1 & 2
  • Number "8" will be present (I had prev selected a windows font, changed to Vector font) - look carefully, all 8's are missing
  • Solder pads /mask corrected - needed, as you can see clearly
  • New fuses 5 and 6 to be moved apart, too close
  • missing GND added /corrected
  • Some diodes holes were too small
  • Degauss connector was incorrect - fixed (Had to drill 1 x hole in proto)
  • Transistor mounting holes for Q23, 24 & 25 moved closer to solder pads

 

Yet to be done (Will be done)

  • Input protection LED
  • Possible optional future provision for a relay to shut off monitor upon Input protection, or spot killer - comments welcome please

 

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

 

I am about to go and experiment with one of these, now that they are working

 

Proto 1 will get some further hacking I think

 

Proposal (Need to work out values as we go)

http://www.dsbelec.iinet.net.au/Amp_Defl_Protection_Dez-01-sm.jpg

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It was 42 degrees here today and with holidays and nothing else to do, I have sat (and continue to as I type) down and read every post about this awesome project..

 

Only questions I have are:

 

1. Where does the FB transformer go?

 

2. What is the solution for 'me' for the yoke?

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The one on klov is 20 time longer

 

LOL

 

 

The flyback goes on the other board (HV)

 

The yoke needs rewinding, that's all. I presume you will use a 25" tube. I have spares of them too.

You have spare (re-wound) yokes or tubes?

 

Also, where does one get the FBT?

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You have spare (re-wound) yokes or tubes?

 

I have spare tubes, and I can help organise rewinding if need be, as convergence and purity need to be done too. Best to do that before the tube leaves here

 

Also, where does one get the FBT?

 

From twisted quarter

1 x Amplifone Flyback

1 x WG6100 Flyback - to cut the focus block from (ditch the transformer)

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I have spare tubes, and I can help organise rewinding if need be, as convergence and purity need to be done too. Best to do that before the tube leaves here

 

 

 

From twisted quarter

1 x Amplifone Flyback

1 x WG6100 Flyback - to cut the focus block from (ditch the transformer)

Sounds good.. let me know how much for a tube and yoke.

 

Seems Twisted Quarter are about to make a whole lot of money out of me :)

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  • 1 month later...

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