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Bally Playboy Rebuild


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Here's the resistor boards for the leds.

 

2ca8a7daafe364cda768968528cb08df.jpg

 

Changed a few scr's for non working lamps and any that still flicker.

Problem solved.

 

0e43d442ee81325ab42231282bfdd058.jpg

 

 

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Another thing that was giving me the shits was no lighting under the left plastic at the bottom.

 

b9a64ad6ab849d7791681f603e7bd839.jpg

 

Decided to make up some extra gi sockets to light up under there before my OCD drives me nuts.

 

21df3bb9f3b72ec5f44ee30a51e30d1c.jpg

 

015ae6891cfc634e3afaca35ef3f9435.jpg

 

Looks better but will need 2

 

146ba3438296f5cf927780e126948a2d.jpg

89313128b2f8aa47d3132ae830e71f05.jpg

 

 

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@ Dedrock ...Yes, It definitely needed that extra lighting. I found mounting the socket and light parallel to the playfield saved on drilling a socket hole and actually lit the area like two LED bulbs would normally be required. The lighted area seemed to stretch.

 

I was then able to temporarily clamp the bulb holder down under something like a post that then let me put the plastic back on the posts and see I was getting the desired effect.

 

If it wasn't doing the job or the LED glare was in the player's eyes, I could move it again for another try.

 

About your Bally lamp boards, what value are the resistor networks they used for them. The networks I fitted direct to the board were 1K and I had the same issues with about 90% worked fine but a couple would occasionally flicker.

 

Problem was the ones that flickered occasionally would change.

 

I'm thinking the next time I do the mod I'll go 47Ohm networks just to make absolutely sure the flicker problem is fixed.

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Bally Playboy Rebuild

 

@ Dedrock ...Yes, It definitely needed that extra lighting. I found mounting the socket and light parallel to the playfield saved on drilling a socket hole and actually lit the area like two LED bulbs would normally be required. The lighted area seemed to stretch.

 

I was then able to temporarily clamp the bulb holder down under something like a post that then let me put the plastic back on the posts and see I was getting the desired effect.

 

If it wasn't doing the job or the LED glare was in the player's eyes, I could move it again for another try.

 

Exactly what I did. Thought I had that pic.

Sat it in parallel. Was too close to the plastic at the top so moved it down with the bottom and spreads more light.

Just using alligator clips for now until it's right.

 

e8ad937f146c6208766e907a9a7ecf3d.jpg

 

Regarding the resistor networks on the boards, I did look but forgot. Will see what they are when I'm back home.

 

It does recommend new sockets, connectors (which I had) and if problems persist, new scr.

 

I would fix a few, then different ones would start to flicker. Repeated 3 or 4 times until I got them all.

Well worth it though.

 

The insert leds I have in are too white. I have some others that are cool as well but not the bluish white so might change them out.

 

 

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In the picture, the bulb in the Extra ball /specials lane just up from 5 standup targets looks insanely bright.

 

Probably why that particular bulb from the factory actually had one of those red circular tubes around it from memory.

 

You know those red circular tubes that are so brittle from the bulb heat over the years that have virtually no red left in them.

 

That might be an LED bulb that needs the "black textra on the eyeball side of it" trick so it doesn't blind you playing.:)

 

About the network resistor value. I read a post where the user used 470 Ohm because of the occasional flicker.

 

The flickering occurs because the SCR needs a load on it the bulb would have placed on it in normal operation but when you change for an LED, there is no where near the required load to hold the SCR on so therefore it pulses every time the SCR is driven by the processor.

 

Putting a resistor in parallel with the LED increases the load to be closer to the load a normal light bulb would have been however I read 1k was just to close to working and not working correctly as intended so 470 Ohm was used and at that value resistor, it always worked but that is also going to depend on just how much power your particular LED type is pulling I suppose.

 

A couple of my main flickering LEDs, I was able to cure simply by swapping for another LED from the same batch that I would say was pulling slightly more power and that combined with the 1k was sufficient as they haven't flickered since.

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Bally Playboy Rebuild

 

I measured them and they are the 1K or 0.993K.

 

The orange star rollover isn't as bright in person. I have the warm white bending type led under it.

The normal frosted wasn't bright enough.

Edit

I see what you mean, it's not as bright in person either. I never remember seeing them originally. Can put the light pink in it.

 

Here's the upgrade. Changed type to fit 2. Looks much better.

 

94ede0b4b7a18c56a3ee5e86a37e9860.jpg

 

01f8659779229b34148ef570ec232569.jpg

 

 

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Do people have a factory play field hole for a socket.

 

My old playfield didn't , although I sort of remember a hack on that side. The 2 sockets must have been installed behind the Monthly Girl switches.

 

6b9a77d8112b5d73963fa19aa3102f8b.jpg

 

 

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Bally Playboy Rebuild

 

Mine had lamps in the slot behind the targets. I'll take some pics when I get home.

Here's a couple from my playfield resto thread.

9ba03a59577724d0a878b968cacfe560.jpgcb75fedc5041be8f05d88064591b3876.jpg

 

48d26ed571ce8f52f91dc0512206008f.jpg

 

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Edited by Boof Head
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Yeah.

That's what I thought. I had some added on for the old one but they went awol.

Couple people's told me they had one in the playfield.

 

 

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