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    Thread: Replacing an anode cup on a monitor HV Lead (DIY)

    1. #1
      dezbaz's Avatar
      dezbaz is offline Vector Collector
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      Replacing an anode cup on a monitor HV Lead (DIY)

      I just had to do this on an old chassis so I thought I would document it
      1. This guide assumes you already have the chassis safely removed and are still alive (See here if you need to do that first)

      2. If you are getting arcing on your monitor, or you anode cup is cracked, damaged or just in-flexible, you can easily replace it yourself

      3. We suggest you remove the chassis and do this on the bench, so solder doesn't drip into you other arcade components in the cabinet

      4. Here is the chassis I will do the demo on (LAI BW Vector Monitor) LAI-KZ-20XYB
      (Click to Enlarge)


      5. Next thing to do is find a cup in good condition to use as the replacement

      6. Here are 2 options off old TV Chassis' I picked up off the side of the road




      I chose the 2nd one as it is closer to the physical style of the LAI chassis' cup

      7. Next step is to slide the old cup off, without damaging the insulation of the lead. You want to keep the lead as long as possible. I used some of this WD spray to make it slide easier.


      First you pull it inwards, cut off the spring, then slide it the other way, off the end




      8. Cut the lead close to the spring and slide it off




      9. Slide the new one on


      10. Pull it out of the hole, holding close to the end so we don't shorten the lead too much


      More to come (Maximum 10 pics)

      ---------- Post added at 12:57 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:27 PM ----------

      11. Pull the HV lead out enough to work on


      12. you need to strip the wire without damaging the inner strands (I used pliers)


      13. Desolder the old spring from the original chassis (If it is in good condition), as it suits the original Monitor anode hole


      14. It will look like this


      15. Solder tin the lead after stripping of 10 mm (3/8")


      16. Bend the end and close it around the clip like this, prior to soldering


      17. Solder the far end only so it remains flexible when fitting it later


      18. Start sliding it back in


      19. Push it gently into the bottom of the hole in the cup


      20. Finished product


      Time to perform the repair: 10 Mins
      Time to document the repair: Longer LOL

    2. #2
      Ando77's Avatar
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      Great work Dez

      Ando
      Pinball, Its an Addiction

    3. #3
      Davefjedi's Avatar
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      Dez you are a champ
      Great walk through
      The best action is wrist action!!!!!!

    4. #4
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      I am really enjoying repairing the arcade machines i have, almost as much enjoyment as playing them, I couldn't do it without the help of the very helpful and experienced people on this forum cheers.

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