Jump to content
Due to a large amount of spamers, accounts will now have to be approved by the Admins so please be patient. ×

Recommended Posts

Been biulding a cab on and off for a few weeks. Here it is so far.

 

http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/g447/dirkdiggler76/P9190388.jpg

 

http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/g447/dirkdiggler76/P9220396.jpg

 

http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/g447/dirkdiggler76/P9220397.jpg

 

http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/g447/dirkdiggler76/P9230398.jpg

 

http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/g447/dirkdiggler76/PA180423.jpg

 

http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/g447/dirkdiggler76/PA180422.jpg

 

my plans changed aas i when on..:(

 

 

That is a 68 cm tv. Going to use jomac for the parts to run to a arcade card.

 

Monitor was just a rough in so i can get it in the right spot .

 

Question.

 

I dont know how i am going to use to cover the screen.

 

I have a 4cm gap from the max front of tv to the front edge.

 

I asume i will use glass . I dont know how. i can router a edge, for it to side in but i cannot side it in.

 

Ideas or comments please :rolleyes

Edited by DirkDiggler
Link to comment
Share on other sites

done a few more things. wife gave me a few ideas.

 

Doing control pannel atm.

 

Going 2 joysticks and 6 buttons each.

 

1 and 2 player.

 

But i want to add a few control buttons.

Like pause and stuff.

 

I have not used the mame software that much. So not really sure how many controls there are..

 

But i am only going to add 3 max. Pause is a must but.

 

With the glass. I have read here about it. Most people say glass with a 5 per cent tint. Correct. ?

 

If so where can i buy it from. Any glass place? Live in wetern sydney,

 

 

What about speakers. i have a volume control knob hiding outside to adjust that. So i need computer speakers..

 

Looking at something like this maybe

 

http://www.arc.com.au/pub.php?gid=23377&pid=35869&p=product

 

Ideas

Edited by DirkDiggler
add stuff
Link to comment
Share on other sites

With MAME there is no need for a dedicated Escape or Pause button. The Player 1 start button acts as a Shift key so hold that down and tap down on P1 joystick for pause and for Escape hold P1 start and tap P2 start.

 

There are other controls accessible via the use of the shift button but those 2 are the most commonly used.

 

2 player 6 buttons each sounds like a good plan (it's what I have on my upright).

 

As for glass I have tinted perspex on my upright and tinted glass on my cocktail, glass is slightly dearer but really does look sexy. With the perspex I have a slight grey tint and the glass is a slight blue tint (grey was out of stock lol). You should have no trouble getting it from a local glazier but do get it toughened for safety and durability. Incidentally the perspex and glass are both 6mm thick.

 

For speakers I have an Altec Lansing sub plus 2 high end car stereo speakers and the thing pumps! As for volume knob, mine is located inside the control panel.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

can u show us some more pix of the inside. just concerned u may not have enough cross bracing.

nothing more heart breaking then building a cabinet then try and move it and it falls to bits infront of your eyes and all your hard work is destroyed

Link to comment
Share on other sites

trying for find speakers..

 

i saw that some people here go or a amp then car speakers...

 

http://www.audiovisualdevices.com.au/viewprod.php?catid=&productid=APC554

 

is what i have bought so i can put it on the top of arcade unit where no one can see but i can adjust the volume..

 

Been looking around for some good quality speakers but all of them have this power on/off on the wired remote.. which i dont want..

 

So question..

 

is there a amp i can buy which can connect through a 3.5mm plug to this thing i have bought and then i can connect to car speakers.

 

I was/am trying to go for a 130 dollar 2.1 setup that had a very good amp..( wanting if i can hack it do when main power turned on ... speakers/amp turns on too..auto

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Most amps should be able to take RCA inputs, so you may just need to grab a 3.5mm to 2xRCA cable. Just take a close look at the input specs for the amp. On mine the RCA ports are for low level input, so my amp is actually turned down to nothing and the main PC volume usually only sits around 4%, so just be mindful of things like that so you don't blow your speakers as soon as you turn it on.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

update.

 

done a bit of work here and there.

 

i have the following marquee ..

 

( not for sale anymore :(..

black with mame in blue and little things on it.)

 

something like this

http://www.gameongrafix.com/products/nebula-marquee-from

 

 

waiting on some t moulding and bits to come in.

 

Control pannel done.

 

Will post some pics after i undercoat everything ( holefully within 2 weeks)

 

 

Now i need some ideas.

 

theme ..colours i really have no idea.

 

Was thinking of going black with some side stickers...

 

t mounding.. was gunna go black or maybe some blue somewhere..

 

any ideas or just pics of your machine to give me some ideas.

 

edit...

 

also i have a 2.1 sound system.. speakers mounted ..

 

but what about the sub . Do i need a grill or something so sound goes outside to the side?

Edited by DirkDiggler
added stuff
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am pondering the same question with my sub.

 

To my understanding (someone please prove me wrong if I am!) base is not a 'directional' sound and can be pretty much placed anywhere. I imagine for a cleaner sound, and one that is not going to rattle your cabinet when you crank up the base, then the speaker should be facing the outside. If heavy base is not your thing, then I do not think it matters.

 

Advice from someone who has done this??

 

Adz

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I've built a heap of car and home subs in my time and putting the sub inside the box won't really make a difference. A common myth regarding ports on subs is that they allow the speaker to 'breathe' - not the case, they (in a sense) provide constructive interference from the rear of the woofer to make the sub more efficient. There doesn't necessarily need to be a gap in the cab for the sound to get out. For a sealed woofer or similar the sound isn't directed from the woofer as such, but it's as much the enclosure that makes the noise as it is the cone itself.

Mounting it inside the cab won't cancel much sound either because of the length of the sound waves from subs. Lower frequency = longer wavelenths, and matter in general is far more effective at cancelling short wavelengths than long ones. When a car with a big sound system goes past you the bass is far more prominent that the treble for this reason. adz_78 was spot on with his comment about bass being 'unidirectional'.

On my cabinet I've mounted the sub into the actual cab itself, and it's very loud and clear from the outside. Unless you're using a really small sub that can't hit low bass (let's say <50 Hz) then I don't think you're going to have any issues mounting it on the inside. Just ensure that everything that's loose is fastened down.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...