IMPURE Posted August 24, 2010 Share Posted August 24, 2010 Hello all, Just seen some clown on ebay trying to rip people with testing and tagging of pinballs, if anyone needs it done please pm me, on ebay the clown is trying to charge $45 bucks, WTF sorry but it takes no longer to test a pinball than it does a toaster. provided you are in melbourne and can bring it to me $5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
narf_ Posted August 24, 2010 Share Posted August 24, 2010 nice but i cant take it seriously when your avatar is tag teaming :lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myny Posted August 24, 2010 Share Posted August 24, 2010 Yeah I saw (and giggled) at that, $45 for testing and tagging is a joke (unless they're going to drive out to site and tag just the one machine). Tagging generally costs $5-$10 if you take it to a sparky, most tool shops can now test and tag as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
narf_ Posted August 24, 2010 Share Posted August 24, 2010 $60 over here local :o Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myny Posted August 24, 2010 Share Posted August 24, 2010 $60, damn, I think I've found a new business opportunity for you narfunkle, do you know it's only a 1-2 day course to be able to test and tag? Buy yourself a megger and you're rolling in it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IMPURE Posted August 24, 2010 Author Share Posted August 24, 2010 its a fuckin joke really, 5 mins tops, a tag and fill out a spreadsheet with details, tagger has to keep the record for 7 years and give the owner a copy, its fuck all but of course because a pinball is big some people assume more complicated to test, pfff opurtunistic assholes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David_AVD Posted August 24, 2010 Share Posted August 24, 2010 OK, who here can tell me the steps for the actual test part? (yes I know them) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
narf_ Posted August 24, 2010 Share Posted August 24, 2010 baker im all good funny thing about test and tag our work microwave died so i bought mine from home for the day. came back and the testing guys had done there routine check and my microwave is now tested and tagged :laugh: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arcadus Posted August 24, 2010 Share Posted August 24, 2010 OK, who here can tell me the steps for the actual test part? (yes I know them) Umm... can you list them to see if am right?:p Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myny Posted August 24, 2010 Share Posted August 24, 2010 OK, who here can tell me the steps for the actual test part? (yes I know them) The last one that I set up for a previous employer (it helps that it was a large company that had money to spend, it was GM Holden :)) was this one, on a full trolley setup, all in one with a database that told you when different sections needed tagging :). The steps on that were easy, plug in, attach earth lead, scan barcode on last tag, and wait until it prints out either a passed tag, or danger tag :D. New appliance setup was very easy too! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dyson Posted August 24, 2010 Share Posted August 24, 2010 OK, who here can tell me the steps for the actual test part? (yes I know them) ummm, turn on, lick cable. Make sure you do not open the device (unlike pinballs which are quite often open). Not dead: Pass Dead: Why did you lick the cable? Wasn't that covered in your 2 DAY course! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IMPURE Posted August 24, 2010 Author Share Posted August 24, 2010 depends if its class 1 or 2, first step is visual inspection. Also just a word of advice, and i am guilty of this, do not engrave on the plastic of a power tool (double insulated), engrave on the steel of the gearbox or casing, never on the plastic as it will fail a test before its even plugged into the pat. reason being the plastic forms part of the insulation and by removing t, engraving you have effectively made it unsafe. having said that filling in the engraving with car bog or epoxy is acceptable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arcadus Posted August 24, 2010 Share Posted August 24, 2010 1 visual inspection 2 polarity 3 insulation resistance 4 earth resistance 5 current leakage 6 the tag No idea about the 7th:unsure Interesting to note that a person has to be a "competent person" not necessarily an electrician, as an exmember of this forum used to push. Expensive as the copy of the regulation is about $90-$100 and the tester starts around $800 for a cheapy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David_AVD Posted August 24, 2010 Share Posted August 24, 2010 Impure: you passed! :023: Baker and Dyson: sorry, you failed. :( Visual inspection is the first step. Sadly not many people actually do this. Test and tag is a bit of a joke in some ways. The test part is good, but where it falls down is that people assume the equipment must be safe simply because it has a current tag on it. All a current tag indicates is that (in theory) the item passed inspection and testing on the date indicated by the tag. What happened to the item after it left the hands of the tester is anyone's guess! Test and tag has at least made people aware of the potential for electrical items to become faulty over time. It doesn't guarantee the item is defect free at the time of use, but at least equipment and leads are getting tested at regular intervals. As for the 2 day (or whatever) courses, there is no requirement (in QLD at least) to take any course in order to perform test and tagging. The course provides no licence as such. Anyone can perform test and tagging. It's not related to an electrical ticket. You just need to make sure you would be deemed "competent" (know the process) if you are challenged by the courts. Ralph has posted since I started this reply (doh!) so some of this is doubled up. I bought a copy of the relevant standard (AS/NZ 3760) and its addendums to make sure we're up to date with the requirements. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Railways Posted August 24, 2010 Share Posted August 24, 2010 Did my tag course 3 yrs ago and it was one day course. Yep you just have to be a "competent" person. The boss bought a TNTplus P.A.T unit. Simple to use (for me anyway), and yes the visual inspection is vastly overlooked from what I here by Subbies. I have 3 books of 6mthly tests to do along with another book for RCD's - and that is just our Marina. Generally takes me about 2-3 days to do the lot depending on any probs found. Just a note though when testing a latish model pin like WPC which has a detachable power cord I find it prudent to treat the cord as an extn. lead and tag it alone then test the machine itself and tag again alone as leads and machines can be swapped accidentally. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DevoDave Posted August 24, 2010 Share Posted August 24, 2010 Getting slightly away from the Pinball side of things, T&T of arcade gear! There is a lot of confusion out there on testing intervals and what actually gets T&T'd. Most modern arcade gear have detachable IEC cords for them. My (and my instructor on the T&T course) are of the opinion that the cord is a separate entity to the equipment it is plugged into. So, you need to test (and keep track of) the cable, and have a separate record and test for the cabinet. The actual cabinet should be reasonably secure and is therefore on a different T&T schedule to the cords. In a commercial environment, three years for the cabinet and six months for the cord. Your mileage may vary, and if a machine is moved around inside the location, you may want to put it on a six monthly test to cover yourself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Railways Posted August 24, 2010 Share Posted August 24, 2010 Yep- as said I treat machine and cord separately. Being a "static" for want of better words as oppossed to portable an arcade game in my view would only warrant 12 mths BUT and i say BUT with risk assessment involved due to the probabilty the item is open to harsh treatment I reckon 6 mth checks are the go on both leads and the appliance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David_AVD Posted August 24, 2010 Share Posted August 24, 2010 For equipment with detachable power cords, we treat them as separate items. As has been said, cords do get mixed and matched. We have a Kyoritsu PAT unit. I think it was around $700, but comes with everything you need for testing class I & II equipment as well as extension leads and IEC power leads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLEX Posted August 24, 2010 Share Posted August 24, 2010 So what happens if the cord is a permanent lead and not detachable on an appliance? If you cant open it up to find where the cord terminates then there is no point testing it I would think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David_AVD Posted August 25, 2010 Share Posted August 25, 2010 A permanently wired power cord is part of the equipment and it gets tested as a whole item. Unless I misunderstand your question, I don't see how it could be any other way. :unsure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLEX Posted August 25, 2010 Share Posted August 25, 2010 A permanently wired power cord is part of the equipment and it gets tested as a whole item. Unless I misunderstand your question, I don't see how it could be any other way. :unsure So with a pinball does the tester open the unit up to test a cord thats hard wired into the pinny? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DevoDave Posted August 25, 2010 Share Posted August 25, 2010 So with a pinball does the tester open the unit up to test a cord thats hard wired into the pinny? Nope... the cord is considered part of the pinball and the entire unit is tested as a single entity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David_AVD Posted August 25, 2010 Share Posted August 25, 2010 Exactly. The test and tag does not concern himself with the internal wiring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLEX Posted August 25, 2010 Share Posted August 25, 2010 Wouldnt the insulation test (240v-500v) have a chance of damaging the electronics or does the transformer isolate it from the rest? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homepin Posted August 25, 2010 Share Posted August 25, 2010 Wouldnt the insulation test (240v-500v) have a chance of damaging the electronics it sure does................. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now