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    Thread: Making LAI XY Vector Chassis PCBs from Scratch

    1. #1
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      Making LAI XY Vector Chassis PCBs from Scratch

      I stripped down one of my spare L.A.I. Vector chassis' today.

      It was from an Asteroids machine, bot will work in battlezone or Lunar lander, probably more

      Took a few hours to strip

      The result was awesome



      Used the solder sucker and braiding solder wick



      I now have a huge box of Gear



      And a tin full of components



      Speaking of tin, I wonder if I can remake them rusty tin parts??

      About to scan the Copper side and turn into a black and white file

      Have a nice weekend



      when you click on the image the result is a scale scan at 300DPI
      Last edited by dezbaz; 6th March 2010 at 05:21 PM. Reason: Auto Merged Double Post.

    2. #2
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      Good work so far!

      Careful with using a raster - it will work fine, but just make sure the printout is linear (a lot of printers tend to stretch slightly in the horiz, vert or both axis).

      While it would take a lot longer you could trace it in say inkscape or illustrator - which will have better scaling/printing options to get it just right. The file size will also be considerably smaller

      You can't really use an autotrace tool, it will make a meal of it. You'd need to just sit n click for ages

      To preserve your new PCB you can tin it with solder paste and a heatgun (can cost a bit for the paste), I don't recommend flowing it with an iron and regular solder - it will make a mess and possibly overheat it.

      There are liquid tinning products out there, but hard to find here in Aus. I have been experimenting with the cool amp silver plate compound - easy to use (you rub the powder on with a damp paper towel) and you can buy a small amount to try from these guys: http://www.ultrakeet.com.au/index.ph...&bollocks=none

      Damn, I see they are out - but will be back in stock in 6 days. And now it is even cheaper! $3.50 for a shot.

      I dunno if it would be worth trying to clean up those old components - I'd be replacing all the standard parts with new ones, and just do my best with the oddball parts, like the darlington arrays.

      Cheers
      JAcob

    3. #3
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      Did you get bored today Dez

      I must say you sure are pouring a lot of effort into this project and the results have been outstanding so far. Your up-dates are the first post I look at when I see a new one posted.

      So when are the brand new LAI vector monitors going to be available?

      Regards,

      Johns-Arcade.

    4. #4
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      Quote Originally Posted by Johns-Arcade View Post
      Did you get bored today Dez

      I must say you sure are pouring a lot of effort into this project and the results have been outstanding so far. Your up-dates are the first post I look at when I see a new one posted.

      So when are the brand new LAI vector monitors going to be available?

      Regards,

      Johns-Arcade.
      What else have I got to do

      I want this to be reliable mate

      I can see why that chassis failed, lifting tracks, and broken tracks. Did you see them ?

    5. #5
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      Quote Originally Posted by AskJacob View Post
      Good work so far!

      Careful with using a raster - it will work fine, but just make sure the printout is linear (a lot of printers tend to stretch slightly in the horiz, vert or both axis).

      While it would take a lot longer you could trace it in say inkscape or illustrator - which will have better scaling/printing options to get it just right. The file size will also be considerably smaller

      You can't really use an autotrace tool, it will make a meal of it. You'd need to just sit n click for ages

      To preserve your new PCB you can tin it with solder paste and a heatgun (can cost a bit for the paste), I don't recommend flowing it with an iron and regular solder - it will make a mess and possibly overheat it.

      There are liquid tinning products out there, but hard to find here in Aus. I have been experimenting with the cool amp silver plate compound - easy to use (you rub the powder on with a damp paper towel) and you can buy a small amount to try from these guys: http://www.ultrakeet.com.au/index.ph...&bollocks=none

      Damn, I see they are out - but will be back in stock in 6 days. And now it is even cheaper! $3.50 for a shot.

      I dunno if it would be worth trying to clean up those old components - I'd be replacing all the standard parts with new ones, and just do my best with the oddball parts, like the darlington arrays.

      Cheers
      JAcob
      Thanks for the link Jacob, I've been looking for some of this stuff for some time. Farnell do sell it, but I don't want to donate a kidney to pay for it.

      By the way, the Darlingtons are still available new from Wes.


      Quote Originally Posted by dezbaz View Post
      What else have I got to do mate

      I want this to be reliable mate

      I can see why that chassis failed, lifting tracks, and broken tracks. Did you see them ?
      Yes mate, I think these chassis copped a fair bit over the years. But to be honest, I quite like these LAI vector chassis, they do give a nice picture and are simple to work on.

      Regards,

      Johns-Arcade.
      Last edited by Johns-Arcade; 6th March 2010 at 05:39 PM. Reason: Auto Merged Double Post.

    6. #6
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      Quote Originally Posted by Johns-Arcade View Post
      Thanks for the link Jacob, I've been looking for some of this stuff for some time. Farnell do sell it, but I don't want to donate a kidney to pay for it.
      Yes, me too. To make matters even better, the owner of ultrakeet, Ahmad is a top guy, very helpful and clever too.

      I originally came across his site via hackaday, where he made a capacitive discharge spotwelder: http://www.ultrakeet.com.au/index.ph...&name=cdWelder

      ...And saw he stocks the Pulsar Pro PCB gear, which I have been using for a while now.

      Every now and then he adds something that is a little tough to get in Aus, like the collet style PCB drillbits.

      Cheers
      Jacob

    7. #7
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    8. #8
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      Got some of them a few months back from the US

      Cheers mate

      Quote Originally Posted by Prof View Post
      I wonder if there are higher rated ones so I can fire up the 23" or 25" screens

      Quote Originally Posted by dezbaz View Post
      Got some of them a few months back from the US

      Cheers mate



      I wonder if there are higher rated ones so I can fire up the 23" or 25" screens
      Found this one, may try
      http://www.ciconelectronics.com/stk0100.html

      Quote Originally Posted by Prof View Post
      I will investigate the diagrams to see if beefier anciliary circuitry is needed
      Last edited by dezbaz; 7th March 2010 at 01:37 AM. Reason: Auto Merged Double Post.

    9. #9
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      There's a handful of components to change a 14" chassis to a 20". Darlingtons go from a 0040 to a 0080 and you need to change a few components + add a couple.


    10. #10
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      Sorted (correct scale in internet explorer)



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